Anyone know of some assessments and/or benchmarks for hip mobility and flexibility specifically for climbing which would highlight where you're most lacking? Or able to provide some (maybe Liamhutch?). I'm confident there must be a Pareto's Law type approach to flexibility and mobility for climbing but there's so much bollocks out there for all types of training these days and flexibility stuff seems particularly bollock heavy. Personally I feel like I'm average to ok flexibility/mobility in some areas (eg. solid at L sits, not bad V sits, not bad at pulling with high feet on a board or high rockovers on slabs) and terrible in certain types of others (splits type corners, foot to hand matching when hand is pressing/mantling, certain types of heels, shocking at pigeon pose, absolutely nowhere on pancake). Would be nice to know what to target*...
*for climbing
Being tall with pretty average hip flexibility it is something I have been looking at this during lockdown.
You sound like you have pretty good flexibility and they may be a bit basic but there are a couple of videos on the topic by the "climbing doctor" with American climber Jon Cardwell. He does a couple of pretty simple appearing assessments at the start. Maybe worth a watch?
