[Bonjoy]

Slightly odd to be discussing access problems on a fully banned crag.

Although the crag remains banned, as has been the case for years, the actual owner rarely challenges visitors, mostly because he lives in the farm some way to the south and isn't passed on the approach. However, there are several houses which are passed on the way in, and although they may not actually own the woods they are well aware of climbers using the crag and are, from an access point of view, another de facto set of 'landowners'. There have been discussions between them and climbers several time in the past and it's fair to say they've waivered between ambivalence and opposition to access.

Unfortunately, it seems that recent increased visitor numbers and some thoughtless parking has caused friction which may lead to a drastic worsening if things don't improve.

I had a message yesterday from a climber who ended up chatting to a guy from  the house above the crag. He was friendly and said he was happy for climbers (who he acknowledged were well behaved and respectful) to visit the crag. However, he expressed concern about a recent increased number of visitor (up to 15 people was mentioned). He was also unhappy about cars being parked on the verges, especially near his house. He asked that no more than 3-4 climbers climb there at once. There was a threat to stop climbing if things didn't improve.

There was some confusion as to whether the chap might own some/all the woods crossed, but really this is slightly irrelevant as far as trying to abide by his wishes goes, given he's much better placed to police a ban than the farmer.

On the visitor numbers side I appreciate this will be hard to follow, especially given you won't know how many people are at the crag until you've walked all the way in. That said, 15 people is way too many given the access situation (w/wo Covid considerations), and people should be turning round and going elsewhere/home if they arrive and there's anything vaguely approaching this number. Sticking to the requested 3-4 would certainly be the best way to maintain the current status quo. The greater the number above this, the greater the risk to access.

On the parking side, there is a massive layby just up the road. Cars and vans (the guy was particularly annoyed about these) shouldn't be parked on the verges, this is doubly true for verges visible from the houses. If there are no layby spaces, which wouldn't surprise me given the parking situation everywhere round the Peak, park further away or go elsewhere.

Best practice is to park at the layby, then walk in via the footpath along the ridgeline rather than via the road. This approach is definitely the most discrete.

On the upside the guy in question was friendly and quite positive about climbers generally. From his point of view, so long as things calmed down a bit, he was happy for climbing to continue.

Lastly, if you do bump into folk at the crag please pass on this info, in case they aren't already aware.

[Wood FT]

Seems totally reasonable. I wish all banned crag negotiations went like this.

[spidermonkey09]

Yep, sounds very fair. No idea why people park on the verge on the corner, it's the height of laziness when the layby is so close. It's also really muddy currently so would imagine its ruining the grass.

I think this is a good example of people trying to do the right thing re covid and avoid honeypots, inadvertently creating another honeypot. Hopefully it will calm down as things relax.

[Fiend]

Good report goosejoy. The layby parking and footpath over the top (told to me by Shark a couple of years back) seemed obviously very sensible. Glad the residents are aiming for a good compromise. Maybe something could be done to highlight alternate venues in the area (admittedly looking at the forecast that might be a moot point).

[remus]

Thanks for the heads up bonjoy. It would be a shame to further aggravate an already sensitive situation. I can't imagine how 15 people could fit at eatswood!

[Fiend]

If they were exploring all the trad you might not even see the other 7 parties!

[DAVETHOMAS90]

This is great work Bonjoy.

It's such a quality crag too.

 

[Fiend]

Bonjoy, had a suggestion from a friend that you make this access issue and guidance more prominent on the UKC front page....

[mrjonathanr]

Both Peak Bouldering guides lay it on thick that it's banned and you need to park on the layby up top. The sense of entitlement to then park by the house I find difficult to fathom.

[monkey boy]

Bonjoy, had a suggestion from a friend that you make this access issue and guidance more prominent on the UKC front page....

I have changed the parking on UKC but it's waiting for authorisation. Currently the suggestion is at the junction of Alton Lane and Milken Lane, which is the grass verge, obviously this isn't great.

[Bonjoy]

Bonjoy, had a suggestion from a friend that you make this access issue and guidance more prominent on the UKC front page....

I have changed the parking on UKC but it's waiting for authorisation. Currently the suggestion is at the junction of Alton Lane and Milken Lane, which is the grass verge, obviously this isn't great.

Cheers Dave. That's authorised now.

[monkey boy]

Nice one

[old cheese]

Had a message from a friend today who said access to eatswood now more challenging.
“texting to say it's been fenced off properly with barbed wire and debris and the wall half way along has been built up too. Someone clearly doesn't want us here. I won't be coming again for a while”
Incidentally this is the same person who spoke to the people in the top house who were ok with it.

It could be the farmer expressing his opinion that he doesn’t want climbers there.

[spidermonkey09]

Fuck! Bound to happen given the increased numbers lately but that's a shame.

[mark20]

Whats the latest access advice for this place? Thanks

[spidermonkey09]

I think the advice remains the same, if you go park as per Bonjoy's post and be discrete. Don't know if people have been going much recently.

[cheque]

I climbed there last month. Take secateurs.

[mark20]

Thanks both. Was it OK to get in over the wall Mike, a post higher up says barbed wire has been added?

[mark20]

On the parking side, there is a massive layby just up the road. Cars and vans (the guy was particularly annoyed about these) shouldn't be parked on the verges, this is doubly true for verges visible from the houses. If there are no layby spaces, which wouldn't surprise me given the parking situation everywhere round the Peak, park further away or go elsewhere.

Best practice is to park at the layby, then walk in via the footpath along the ridgeline rather than via the road. This approach is definitely the most discrete.

Just to re-iterate, this is the best way in and I've not had any problems like this. And not seen anyone else at the crag, so it seems like things have died down a bit.
All of starred HVS-E3 routes are cleaned and good.