[duncan]

Well done anyone doing something constructive at this uncertain, grey, wet, dark, and locked-down time (and if you touched rock consider yourself a lucky bastard!)

Eccentric phase of pull-ups (fast or slow) tends to irritate my elbows. As lowering is not as relevant to climbing as lifting, I often just do the concentric phase and drop off or step onto a chair rather than lowering. You can apply the same principle to dips.

M - ‘Pickups’: 18mm edge x 40kg x7s. 8km walk. Bought a bouldering mat
T - Shoulder conditioning (side planks, YsTs). 8km walk.
W - Shoulder conditioning. Deep body-weight squats. 6km walk.
T - ‘Pickups’: 40kg x7s. (DOMS after yesterday’s squats).
F - 13km walk.
S - Shoulder conditioning. Deep body-weight squats. Single-leg squats to 90 degrees.
S - ‘Pickups’: 35kg x10s. 10km walk including ~5 mins jog.

Overall Covid recovery is about 50-60%. Getting generally fitter and not collapsing after a decent walk. Quite surprised how weak my legs are: untrained I can usually bust out 2-3 single-leg squats but feel well off this at the moment. I’m sure it will come back fairly quickly and I can then think if I want to start doing any running. Shouldn’t rush into this but vague aims for 2021* involve being hill fit.

I’ve realised I’ve done 6 solid weeks of max. hangs (they were one of the few things that didn’t trigger general fatigue). Feeling a bit tweaky in the usual places so time to have a week off then do a block of something different.

*need to write these down.

[James Malloch]

I looking for some useful benchmarks for tracking progress and thought some PC members could help...

What I've got so far (based on what equipment we have) is:

1) Foot on campus. How many moves for a set sequence (+ maybe set time - e.g. move every 1.5s)
2) One arm hang equivalent (as don't have any pulleys for now - could do with a screw gate if better) - stand on weighing scales & work out % of bodyweight pulled on a set edge.
3) max # of pull ups on bar

I guess things like weighted pull ups would be good to include but we don't have much in the way of weights (20kg currently).

Any advice would be good as I'm keen to see how much having the board improves my general fitness and strength.

[User deactivated.]

2) One arm hang equivalent (as don't have any pulleys for now - could do with a screw gate if better) - stand on weighing scales & work out % of bodyweight pulled on a set edge.
3) max # of pull ups on bar

2) 2-arm hangs and acquire some 5-10 gallon jugs to fill with water (probably doesn't work too well beyond 40kg or so due to bulk).

3) If i recall correctly, Lattice say max pullup reps has almost no correlation with climbing performance. 3-5 rep max is likely more useful. If you don't have enough weight for this, go to 1-arm reps, or 1 arm negatives (5 reps of 8 second negatives with no rest between reps was the strength required to do 1 concentric rep for me)

[tomtom]

Before I got my pulley set up I used therabands with a footloop to provide and benchmark assistance for hangs and one arm work.

[dunnyg]

I tried with bands, but I found it quite annoying. Worth trying if you havent already though.
For one arm pullups Ive come across the progression of opposite hand on wrist/bicep/shoulder, which seems lower faff, and from initial dalliances seems to work ok.

[spidermonkey09]

FOC: see here. Aim for a move a second. Using a metronome app is useful for this.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22064.msg621093.html#msg621093

[SA Chris]

2) 2-arm hangs and acquire some 5-10 gallon jugs to fill with water (probably doesn't work too well beyond 40kg or so due to bulk).

Or use house bricks with holes in plus a sling. I've done it, works fine

[Nibile]

Lost this week's diary.
Mon - weights and possibly Lattice hangs.
Tue - rest.
Wed - TBDL finisher 30/30 x5x10 75 kg. Clean and press finisher 30/30 x3x10 38 kg. Hell.
Thu - rest.
Fri - full stretch plank, ab wheel, farmer's static holds 120 kg 30/30 ×6×2.
Sat - weights.
Sun - boxing bag. Tired.

[James Malloch]

Thanks for the replies - I ended up ordering a pulley so hopefully I'll have enough weight to do some 1 arm hangs. Will give some stuff a go this week. We've had 4 sessions on the board now and we're loving it.

[Will Hunt]

We've had 4 sessions on the board now and we're loving it.

But how do you expect us to enjoy it vicariously without posting photos and video?

[dunnyg]

Pictures or it didnt happen 

[James Malloch]

Pictures or it didnt happen 

How do I put them up on here?

[cheque]

Upload your image to imgbb.com (other image hosting sites are available).

Copy the link it gives you for the image.

Start a new reply to this thread and click on the icon that looks like a picture of the Mona Lisa above the smileys.

This will put a little bit of code into your reply- the letters img in square brackets twice, the second one with a slash in front of it.  Paste the code from imgbb inbetween the two.

When you post your image should appear. 

[SA Chris]

Or link to IG account.

[James Malloch]

Thanks! Board photo is here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31076.msg629991.html#msg629991