[shark]

11.6-7 Average 160.6 (no change)

M. Home FB warm up. PM Tor. Blue skies. 2 degrees winter sun till it disappeared behind the hill at 2pm. Made a change. Noice. Third day on so not expecting much but keen to get out before the crap weather set in. Dabbled with some of the individual moves on Bens then had 6 decent in control moves leading to decent throws for the crimp each time. In control means not cutting loose when setting up for the throw which I could only manage occasionally when trying with kneebars so doing it 6x in a row third day on was a nice measure of improvement. However, towards end back felt dicky towards and started to seize up if I sat down too long.

T. PM  5 sets of 4 Fast pull-ups with 16lb. weight belt. Chest to bar 14x

W.

T. PM Desultory walk around Chee Dale with dogs. Crags look like they will never dry out again. Walked on to the Tor. Awful condition but crux holds of Bens still usable.

F. Lunch Home FB warm up. Tor. Group of 4 students working Bens. Holds damp as well. Almost left. Nice lads and whilst hardly ideal scenario managed to maintain distance and have decent attempts. Same level of performance to Monday despite crapper conditions. Took solace from the fact that a week ago going from the start to having enough power to do the crux seemed like a distant dream. Now I’m very close to doing that multiple times in dogshit conditions and it feels like no big deal. Back still tweaky though.

S. AM FB set of recruitment pulls on ergo edge and speed pulls on 20mm edge
Lunch Systems Board. Warm up. Gastons sequence. Oak AnCap circuit. First go held the final hold properly! PB second go fell touching final hold third go fell at penultimate hold. Good progress. Finished with a set of 20/10’s timing 2 secs per move for first 90 moves.

S. Lunch. Fast pull ups. Just did 3 out of 5 sets and stopped as lacking power.


Apart from Monday, awful weather this week. I’ve done the same activities as last few weeks but still making gains so will keep to the routine till I plateau. 

Skipped doing Max hangs earlier this week as felt I needed the rest on Tuesday and skipped it again for the same reason today.

Aim this week is to get past throw move from the start.

[Carl]

Excellent first day, but overall didn't do that much, and picked up a bit of an injury. Hopefully heals up in time for the snow stopping.

STG - 2-3 7B+ [4 complete!] in Q1 and some progress on a 7C. If weather cooperates. Stick to fingerboarding if it doesn't.
MTG - get on a rope for some hardish (> F7b) things this year.
LTG - figure out an LTG.

Monday
Fantastic session at Secret Garden in the evening. Back to finish off Left-Hand Man which went fairly quickly, although it's not the easiest problem to warm up on - classic gritstone slopers feeling impossible to hold until something clicks and they feel great. Then moved on to Dick Williams, which I came surprisingly close to flashing, but ended up taking a few attempts at the upper slopers. Ended up succeeding on a very messy attempt, including half knocking my glasses off at the top and barely being able to see due to dying headtorch battery.
But felt great to tick off 2 7B+ in a day - making a slight mockery of my 5 7B+ in the year target to get to 4 in barely over a month!

Tuesday - Nothing, maybe some scapular wall slides.

Wednesday - Not much, some pushups.

Thursday
Max hangs. 90.3 kg total load, although fairly suspicious of the scales, they're probably not that accurate. Might fiddle with a setup to get the hanging scales working! Succeeded at this weight, so will increase a touch, towards 91 kg.

Friday
Burbage North bouldering. Had to look around for some dry rock as a lot was condensed. Stupidly missed the mat with my foot on a low fall in the Remergence area and landed on a rock with my heel. It hurt, but I didn't think too much about it and carried on, but with more sensible padding.
Moved on to get Fallen Slab Lip 7A and the stand start to Mr Sheen (I think) 7A+, and to Tiny Slab to tick off the nemesis 6A, which was a lot easier than when I last tried in the direct sun! 
When I got home I had a good look at my heel which had a tasty bruise and was pretty painful to weight, but at least it's not much of a great week for the outdoors! Bit sad to miss out on wandering around in the snow though.

Saturday/Sunday - Nada. Realistically could have done some easy stuff but just didn't feel up to it.

[csl]

Stressed out week, so not the best for training.

February Goals

- Have a rest week: going to do this next week.
- Keep the faith, climb on the board 3x a week Only 2x this week.
- 16x mobility, mainly concentrate on hips: only 2/16 so far
- Mabley Green boulder x3, tick a 7B

Monday
Nothing

Tuesday
Hangs - 5x5 seconds 2 arm hangs @ 115kg. Felt good.
Board - Did a variety of stuff. Session #3 on a crimpy project, managed to hold the crux move for a split second before lower hand ripped. Felt a lot better after this!

Mobility - 15 minutes hip flexibility

Wednesday
Nothing

Thursday
Nothing

Friday
Hangs - 5x5 seconds 1 arm hangs @ 73kg
Board - Various boulders, fun session. Managed to repeat a couple of things which took me multiple sessions before.

Saturday
Rest

Sunday

Mobility - 15 minutes hip flexibility

Next week goal: do very little other than re-test max hangs and see how much shitter a climbr I managed to become over the last 8 weeks.

[dunnyg]

stg- first arete
mtg - calf traverse
ltg - Tick everything


Mon- Ilkley, first arete, Had a couple of goes, did something to my left tricep. Had many more goes as climbing felt ok. Realised my arm wasn't working so well anymore and drove most of the way home with little help from my left arm. Touched the top of FA with my right hand though!

Tu - Leg day. Squats, lunges and bridges followed by a monster leg stretch session. Glorious. Arm still wierd.

we - nowt

Th - Warm up, repeaters using half crimp. Absolutely desperate. I've only ever dragged fingerboarding before. I have found my weakness (or one of them atleast). 1 set doing half crimps, then had a go at the BM sloper workout. Didn't finish it, but was ok. Repeaters on the 30s dont really work for me as I have to brush them to get anything out of them!.
 Tried hard though.

Fri - Fish and chips. New local chippy is good. Thank fuck.

Sat - Nowt

Sun- 15km walk checking out new local crags. Some good lines, and some less good lines, but loads of rock to be playing on. Supposed to be meeting someone at the calf, but they bailed after badgering me yesterday. Weak.

Evening - warm up, 1 set half crimp repeaters, alternating between 4 and 3 finger hangs. Still nails but completed nearly all hangs. Did some one arm hangs after that. Hanging with straight arm is way easier. Tried 3 fingered 1 arm hangs but couldnt do it. Something to work up to. Leg stretches.


Grim weather and a weird arm (now fixed!) made for a poor psyche week. Enjoyed getting snowed on today. Can never face a second round of identical repeaters, but enjoying getting spanked by the half crimp.

[tomtom]

Been a really tough week- one where you just try and get through it. Lad had a cold Mon > Weds which impacted our work. Then I got the cold Weds > Fri, MrsTT now has it (not covid - we did some tests). Also teaching started for me on Weds - which went well, but tense leading up to it. End result was all of us feeling totally shattered by the weekend.

Mon: 1 arm day. Total disaster compared to last week. No oomph - no technique. Managed a few repeats with -14kg. Useless. Did a load of TRX stuff later - felt a bit better about myself :D

Tues: Rest

Weds: Board day. Best. Board. Day. Ever. Managed every problem I’d done before (with the large footholds - now small). Brilliant. Snap, power, precision, determination. Where did that come from?

Thurs: Slopers on the beat maker. Had to dig really deep on 2nd and 3rd sets... Did some more TRX stuff.

Fri: Board day. Pretty good considering I felt done in. Had an hour (interrupted by a ten min work call) and wasn’t near Wednesdays dizzying heights but all in all a good session.

Sat: Trashed all day - headache, nausea. Late PM post dinner 1 arm PU day. Well it was better than Monday - 10 reps at -13kg - but not as good as the week before...

Sun: rest day.

Found a couple of new TRX exercises that are good. 3T suggested a prone tricep trembler - and I’ve got one lying on my back pulling up starting with elbows by side that really works undercut muscles...

and.... no golfers flare ups of even small aches...

[spidermonkey09]

Looking forward to you getting the calf traverse nailed so I can mine you for the beta dunnyg...incidentally I get tricep pain sometimes too, usually for me its at the insertion into the elbow and some stretching sorts it out.

M - rest.

T - max hangs. A bit tired from the weekend still. 1.25kg assist. Managed one excellent 7 sec hang on left arm along with a couple of good 5 sec hangs. Right arm felt off the pace and probably needed the extra days recovery. Managed a few stability hangs +7.5kg. Some assisted one armers.

W - rest.

T - repeaters - Anderson hangs. 5kg base weight. Success on the two half crimp edges but dropped off on very last rep of the 3finger drag set. Contemplating trying to drag bottom outside edge but suspect this will be nails. Some TRX to finish and more one armers; nearly doing them without assistance now.

F - rest. Watched the cricket from the sofa in the morning while 'working.'

S - rest. More cricket, and swore at the TV watching the rugby. Bit restless but forecast had been iffy so probably made the right call.

S - max hangs. After two days rest I felt less sore in the arms. Managed 2 good 7 sec hangs on left arm and 1 on the right arm. Every hang on the left arm was good quality, 4/5 secs. Right arm still weaker but not sure how to address it beyond plugging away. Stability hangs +7.5kg (better) and one armers (only needed assistance on the final push to fully locked off. Stretched afterwards. 

Quiet week really. Fell off the wagon with the stretching. Feeling good on the fingerboard which is a positive. Sick of the house but have really enjoyed watching the cricket which helps the mornings go by.

[moose]

Looking forward to you getting the calf traverse nailed so I can mine you for the beta dunnyg...

+1... that problem is one of my White Whales (if Moby Dick was covered in graffiti and surrounded by litter).

... I really, really, need a dry weekend that's cool but not a Baltic suffer-fest. A weekend spent walking and exploring Rocky Valley, looking for boulder problems was fine enough (and probably better for me than going bouldering, given my lack of general fitness) but it just doesn't feed my rat.

[teestub]

Weds: Board day. Best. Board. Day. Ever. Managed every problem I’d done before (with the large footholds - now small). Brilliant. Snap, power, precision, determination. Where did that come from?

I regularly have really good training sessions just as I’m coming down with a cold, my theory was that it was the body making additional resources available to fight the virus (which I was then diverting into hanging off wood!)

Edit: Calf trav is a spring-autumn problem innit, decent sized positive holds throughout and almost always too cold there in winter if there’s a breath of wind. Obvs better mid week after work so that walkers and loose dogs walking/pissing on pads are minimised!

[GazM]

Weds: Board day. Best. Board. Day. Ever. Managed every problem I’d done before (with the large footholds - now small). Brilliant. Snap, power, precision, determination. Where did that come from?

I regularly have really good training sessions just as I’m coming down with a cold, my theory was that it was the body making additional resources available to fight the virus (which I was then diverting into hanging off wood!)

This is a well known phenomenon known as 'Ill Psyche' isn't it?

[moose]

This is a well known phenomenon known as 'Ill Psyche' isn't it?

Well, the week's not been a complete loss: now I've got a name for my up-coming hip-hop album.

[Will Hunt]

Obvs better mid week after work so that walkers and loose dogs walking/pissing on pads are minimised!

On my recent trips to Ilkley I started off being very affable to the endless legions of inquisitive walkers. They're only being curious after all.

They ground me down.

"Is that a tent?"
"Sure."

[Will Hunt]

Back to the bottom of the training psyche barrel.

Monday - Lunchtime dash to Caley. Got on Secret Seventh and was struggling to make the toe work when somebody suggested using a heel. I gave it a go and it instantly made getting the pinch piss. FFS! Why did I write this off ages ago?! Fell off a few times trying to hop my foot up onto the pebble (seemed to be lacking squeeze in the shoulders) then split a tip just as it got to home time. At least I figured out the heel beta.


I think at some point I did the BD core work out. Just about managed to push through the boredom.

Sunday - Repeaters (6 sets of 6 hangs) on the 33mm edge. The hardest thing about repeaters is maintaining form in the lats. I can pull with good form at the start of the session but very quickly lose it. Had about 10 minutes left so got a small footstool and placed it a few feet in front of the fingerboard. Put feet on and just did as many hand movements between the holds as I could, having shake outs on the better holds. I got lots more pumped in the forearms than doing the repeaters. It was fun. Probably not great for form but it felt much more specific to getting pumped on a route, which is what I'm trying to improve. I'm going to give this another go.

[dunnyg]

I do the hand movements as a fingerboard warm up. Usually sets of 60 ish moves, gradually moving feet further away. Seems to work well, and I imagine if made more challening would be very route specific.

[teestub]

Had about 10 minutes left so got a small footstool and placed it a few feet in front of the fingerboard. Put feet on and just did as many hand movements between the holds as I could, having shake outs on the better holds. I got lots more pumped in the forearms than doing the repeaters. It was fun. Probably not great for form but it felt much more specific to getting pumped on a route, which is what I'm trying to improve. I'm going to give this another go.

Have you not got big enough holds on your board for 4x4 or on the minute?

Best recent (pre lockdown)  bouldering mat observations have been that I must have a massive packed lunch, or that I have brought my bed with me.

[User deactivated.]

average weight 84.5kg. 

M - rest, 1hour flexibility routine before bed.

T - warm up on the board then max hangs. Tried shorter duration hangs as described by spidermonkey in last week's PC. Whacked an extra 10kg on above my usual 2 handed weight and got around 5 sets of 3 seconds all to failure.

Straight on to a deadlift benchmarking session having not done them for around a year. Manage a fairly easy single with all my available weight, which I think is 205kg with the bar. That's another year I don't have to do them for then.

Quick bite to eat then I go to my local carpark for a push around on the skateboard to loosen up. 10 minutes in: dizzy, cold sweats, tunnel vision. Tried sitting down for 10 minutes with little improvement, so headed home and emptied the cupboards of sugar. Felt better around 20 minutes later. Weird.

W - rest, 1hour flexibility routine before bed.

T - Rings in the snow. Banded iron cross work, front levers, back levers, weighted pistol squats. Progress on all movements.

Curious by the Bring Sally Up challenge, I decided to give it a go... 1 minute in and i'm struggling bad, only to realise that i've started in my now default pseudo planche pressup position with hands by my hips. Quickly jumped my hands into a normal pressup position and try to continue, but its hopeless and I fail shortly after. Tried again after 5 minutes and did it, but not without effort.
0.5 hour flexibility routine

F - Fun session on the skateboard only to badly bruise my foot right at the end.

S - Foot is black, which is unusual as I almost never bruise. Doesn't feel broken though. Climb on the board one footed with one shoe on but give up after around half an hour.

S - Heavier, shorter duration max hangs again. Same weight as earlier in the week, up from 3,3,3,3,3 to 5,4,4,4,3. Improvement! It feels like i'm just brute forcing my way to stronger fingers, which is great. 0.5 hour flexibility routine

[Coops_13]

Obvs better mid week after work so that walkers and loose dogs walking/pissing on pads are minimised!

On my recent trips to Ilkley I started off being very affable to the endless legions of inquisitive walkers. They're only being curious after all.

They ground me down.

"Is that a tent?"
"Sure."

don’t come to Colorado. Unfortunately a lot of the best alpine bouldering is in the same spots as some of the most popular tourist hikes, it is non-stop...

[RobK]

M - Rest.

T - Max hangs, F3 drag + 8kg. All complete. 60 minutes on the board. Felt all I had done on the board for a while was make up problems that would take me a couple of sessions to do. Decided to repeat old problems today in the aim of getting a bit more volume. Not sure how successful that was. Bar core to finish with.

W - Crimpd 80% repeaters +8kg. This felt really steady, onwards and upwards. TRX Ts, reverse Ts and rows to finish with. Have taken a month or so break from the TRX so good to get back to it .

T - 40 minutes on the board, stopped early when the first joint on my middle right finger went twang in a very worrying way. However 10 minutes later it was totally fine, close call. 5 x 5 fast pull ups in an effort to get a bit more zip in my movements. Crimpd 40% repeaters -13kg to finish with. Felt like a good intensity, low pump levels but forearms still felt like they got worked.

F - Rest. 20 minute run.

S - Rest, sort of. Had planned on training but spent the morning taking a jackhammer to an old concrete conservatory base in my garden. Hands felt like they'd taken a battering afterwards so didn't feel like hanging on small edges was the most sensible thing to do.

S - Max hangs, F3 drag + 9kg. All complete, good progress from +5kg last week. Then an hour on the board making up and ticking a new problem and working on current project. Was planning a bit of aerocap and conditioning but my other half started moaning about rather spending time in a cold garage than with her.

Decent enough week. With a switch up in fingerboard protocol it's good for the psyche to see the scores ticking constantly upwards. Feel like I need to be a bit more disciplined/organised with strength and conditioning stuff, rather than just tacking something of whatever I feel like onto the end of a board session.

[gollum]

W/C 1/2/21

M - Walk, abs/core, arms, yoga, small edges.
T - Snowy walk, pinches and monos, abs, push, yoga
W - Abs, yoga, pull-ups
T - Walk, abs, push, repeaters, yoga
F - Walk, abs/core, pull-ups, pinches and monos, yoga
S - Repeaters, small edge pull-ups, easy abs, yoga
S - Walk, abs, yoga

The urge to go out is just getting greater all the time particularly as conditions just look mint at the start of the week. Using a couple of people as my moral compass at the moment. Fortunately weather turns which breaks any desire to be outside. Hoping BoJo opens golf courses soon, as then I reckon all bets are off.

M - Lovely early brisk walk.
Abs/core when I get home. Plank for 7 minutes. 4x40 hanging L-sit flutter kicks. Then 3 full levers for time, each one exceeds 25 seconds but none reach twenty seconds. Move on to back levers. Four sets; start with band support and reduce support each time, until without band on last set. Lower into position, hold as long as can, bring legs in and then extend out again and then roll out of position. Practice for both the hold and getting into position and then extending rather than controlling the negative to get there, which is just a bit less efficient. Continue bar work with 4x25 hanging windscreen wipers as a superset with 4x25 abs roller reps. Finish with angle flags from tucked.
Arms training today. Start with 3x8 bar dips trying to go deeper than last week (can’t quite put chin on bar) and 3x8 slow strict chins. Next is 4x12 alternating hammer curls and 4x12 overhead dumbbell extensions on each arm. 3x8 Zottman curls and 3x12 single arm Tate presses. Given spidermonkey09’s post from last week I decide to try Bring Sally Up again but with determination and battle through it but it nearly destroys me, certainly worked triceps and front of delts. Finish off arms with some isometric band curls and band extensions, arms are just shaking all the way through each set. A bit of leg work, squats and calf raises.
Yoga is a hip flexibility session.
After spending most of the afternoon just chilling, watching bouldering videos of exotic and not so exotic places and resting, get on to some small edges in the evening. Working on 7mm edges again for 5 seconds. Get up to added 24k on 4th set which feels okay, so go for 28 and get it on 5th but by 6th I can’t hold it for the full 5, so go back to 24 for last two, which I manage relatively easily. Go on to try pull-ups on the same edge and manage a solid enough 5. Try to hang edges with 3mm spacer on to reduce to 4mm but absolutely no chance at all.

T - Out before it’s quite light.  Great walk in the snow around the block with much of first half untrod. Took a bit longer than normal but really nice.
Pinches, square most sets at 26 for 5, flared up to 19 for 5, Lattice pinch up to 20.
On mono trainer work up to 5 seconds at 44 on each finger. With first joint stuff get three sets of 5 seconds with 32 on middle finger, 20 on first and pinky and 24 on ring finger. Finish with mono on Lattice block at 20k. 6 second isometric hold on each of CoC grips. Good stretch of fingers.
Easier abs day. Start with 4x2minute planks. 100 Russian twists, 3x12 Superman holds and 50 paused abs roll outs.
Push day. Start with wall HSPU for 4 sets of 2. Try deficit against, marginally closer as do actually start the upward motion. 5x5 reps with head to the block. Move on to Prone TRX Ts with feet raised for 3x8, on set 2 use two blocks to check I get within 6 inches from the floor, on set 3 use 1 block and can just about touch it with my brow on a couple of the reps. Next is 4x6 prone Ys, lowering the handles about 3 inches on each set. Next is 3x8 TRX superman and then prone Is for 3x8. 3x10 slow deep presses on the TRX rings, alternating hands parallel to body and at 90°. Scapular raises, 3x8 on two arms and then 3x5 single arm stuff. Next is TRX supine IYTs as a combo for 3x10, which feels so easy at first and so incredibly hard at the end of each set. Finish with some kettlebell work for shoulders. 3x8 of each of following; lateral raises, front raises and stability Arnold presses on both arms, keeping leverage high by holding weight out as far as possible. Had a go at my wall taps and touched a couple of inches up the architrave, leading with both hands. Think I’ll leave this now and just wait until I can get on a campus board as Mrs B might kill me if she catches me doing it, or I bust the doorframe.
Find a short yoga session that concentrates on hands, fingers and wrists. Safe to say that my fingers are more crooked and less mobile than the teacher’s. Good practice though as lots of range of motion. Also do a shoulder based workout to make up the time.

W - Start with abs/core session. 5 minute plank. Move on to lock offs on L-sit position for two sets each in full lock, 90 and 120°. Next is 3 full levers, just holding as long as I can, but without timing them. 3x5 lever raises with slow negatives. Finish with 50 ab rollouts and windscreen wipers.
Do my abs based yoga session.
Keep it simple with the pull ups today and just do 10x10 à la GVT.
A steady day, don’t actually feel too great, think it’s something I’ve eaten.

T - Feeling fine again today. Out for my usual walk, misty and a bit damp out there. Get home for a light abs session. Start with 10x1 minute planks, minute on minute off. Move on to 3x50 Russian twists and 3x12 back arches. Finish with 80 paused ab rollouts.
Back to pushing today. HSPU against the wall for four sets of two, try a couple of times for third rep, but not quite there. 4x25 press ups next. On to TRX prone Ts for 3x8 with raised feet, followed by three T holds for a 15 seconds on first set, 15 seconds-5 second rest-10 seconds on second set and 15-10-5 on third set. Move on to prone Ys for 3x6 with 10 second hold at end of each set, again lower rungs by 3 inches on each set. 3x8 superman holds and 3x8 Is from knees with pause on each rep. Attempt reverse flys but not very successfully as angles just don’t quite work, however, using a band works really well. Do supine T,Y,I,X for 3x10 each with really steady control. Next is 3x5 single arm shoulder shrugs and finish with band laterals and front raises both with a hold.
In the afternoon do a set of repeaters but shorten the rest from 2 minutes between sets to 1 minute which really doesn’t work too well and don’t manage the full 7 seconds on every set. Back to 2 minutes next tme and then try 90 seconds at some point in the future. Do 3x50 sets of finger curls with a light band at the end to keep mobility going.
Yoga is focused on hips and hamstrings today and add 5 minutes working on box splits at the end of session.
Finished the day with half an hour playing about with planche progressions and realising I’m a very long way away.

F - Set off on walk while it’s still dark and foggy.
Five minute plank when o get home which is definitely getting more comfortable. Next is 4x10 L-sit pull-ups. Three sets of 15 second full levers. 4x10 alternating tucked leg levers to get some good duration holds going. Move on to back levers, going into position in a tuck and then extending legs. 4x25 hanging windscreen wipers and paused abs roller reps.
Do some single arm shoulder rotations get shoulders working. Start pull-ups with OAP, pretty much follow the same routine as last week, although feel a bit more solid on early sets, so pushed a touch harder with +5 on RH and -1 on LH for sets 4 and 5. Move on to single arm lock offs, 5k support again on full lock. Weighted pull-ups with 20k added for 3x8. Superset of 3x10 chins and 3x10 wide grip pull-ups. 3x12 close grip pull-ups next. Spend some time working on false grip on the bar and do manage a few pull-ups, but do need to toughen up a bit, although probably good practice for when I get back on a decent set of rings. Finish with 3x5 pull-ups to the chest for speed.
Pinches and monos. On square pinch top out at 28k on either hand. On flared pinch am becoming more steady at 19k, so try 20 on last set. Three sets of 7 seconds with 20k on Lattice block. On the mono trainer manage 3x5seconds at 44 on all fingers, but may have reached limit for a bit as is starting to tear the skin, esp on pinky. On first joint; 3 sets at 32 on middle, two at 26, one at 24 on ring and three at 20 on each of other two. CoC to finish and then some stretching and massage.
Do the yoga for climbers session again today. Do like the balance stuff. Will have a look at some of the others on YouTube, as there seem to be loads.

S - Repeaters in the morning. Feeling much more solid and get through my entire set on each grip type for full time required. Use 35° mono rather than sloper on that set, just to mix it up a bit. Solid on 7mm again, so afterwards do 5x5 pull-ups on that edge.
Easy abs of 60 paused abs roller reps.
Yoga for hip flexibility.
All complete before kick off of Six Nations.

S - Walk first thing, which would best be described as bracing.
3x12 reps on the abs roller off my feet. Progress as definitely needing less rest between sets and getting to the end of each set feeling less battered. Could have contemplated a fourth set.
Again do the yoga for

Still very keen to get out, but equally think I’m putting Lockdown to pretty good use and shouldn’t come out of it fat and weak, just old.

[Duma]

M - day off after sharkathon.
T -
W - Board, 2hrs. Excellent session,  managed a crimpy project on bad feet that was my longest running yet, also finally repeated a sloper problem that a mate had done back in the summer.
T - Run, 5k, flat, pavement, 23:20. First run in a week since my knee felt tweaked, felt like I was taking it steady so surprised to be well under 24 min. Board, 90mins, bit humid from the rain and feeling yesterday's session a bit, but made some progress on some of the benchmarks on the worst feet.
F - 12hr shift
S - 12hr shift
S - 12hr shift

Calf/shin was pretty tight after Thursday's run, will give it another day or two before trying again. Shame as I was enjoying it through Jan. Good board week, psyched to be making progress on my problems using the hardest feet.

(Av) 70kg. Had been consistently under 70 for a week until Thurs, but a weekend sat at a desk eating crap meant 71 this morning. Hopefully a blip.

[nai]

M -
New lockdown project to at least try, and hopefully complete, all problems of 6C-7A at Burbage North regardless of quality/eliminateness. Started 15/36
Busy and boiling.
First up the king line of Cleo's Arete Sit Start. Needs two pads to start off, or being a giant with orangutan arms and ballet dancer flexibility would probably suffice.
Went to Terrace area having noticed I hadn't marked the arete right of Jason's as completed. Moves were familiar and did the stand quite qickly, had definitely done it before. 
Was just looking at the sit, which also felt familiar, when a guy turned up to get on the Terrace so I left and headed back along the edge.
Went and tried Definitive 5.12 for a while as it was the only thing free.

T - Legs - lunges, bodyweight slow squats, hip thrust
inadvisably then did couple of HIIT circuits that Plattsy suggested
IYTs
scap angels
core circuit

W - Legs sore
mono pickups.
Family walk

Th shoulder circuit
walk

F mono pickups,
IYTs floor and scap angels
bit of mobility stuff
core circuit

S - 30 mins LI
Walk

S Bit tweaky so just a snowy walk

[RobK]

Went and tried Definitive 5.12 for a while as it was the only thing free.

Did this one a couple of months back. A proper all-body effort, felt like I was going to throw up afterwards!

[RobK]

Yeah I do have a bigger foot set on there that I use for endurance stuff. Probably a good idea to do some boulders on them to mix up the style.

[JohnM]

M - AM x-country skiing 6.85km PM Ski tour 6.85km 569m

T - Ski tour + avalanche search and rescue training. 3km 281m.

W - Ski tour to Col de Longet 12.65km 723m.

T - x-country skiing to Le Col Agnel (France/Italy border) 26.87km 830m.

F - Ski tour to La Saume 12km 969m.

S - Drive back to Innsbruck.

S - Shoulder stability and core (0.5 units), weighted two arm hangs 5 x 25kgs (0.5 units), pockets and slopers (0.5 units).

 

[tommytwotone]

LTG: get out and climb a new (to me) Font 7a somewhere

After an elongated period of inactivity, I dug my faux-TRX out of the shed and have actually got quite into it.

Been doing 3 x 10 of 5 exercises, mainly shoulder-y / rehabb-y / antag-y stuff but feel like it's keeping me ticking over. Can't remember when but I did that 3 times last week.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Getting in early this week...

M: Shoulder stability shizzle
T: Fingerboard sesh - Repeaters
W: Shoulder shit
T: Went to blackberry wall - was damp - dried holds - started raining - ate chips and dranks wine...
F: Tried BBW again - damp again - drier than day before tho - managed an hour just traversing the small dry parts of the wall - FML! Mamouth fingerboard sesh - BBW worked as a warmup (warming up outside for fingerboarding inside is the new warming up indoors for bouldering outside!)... 70% hangs to failure, weighted pulls and repeaters... Stretching and shoulder shit to finish - Trashed!
S: Rest
S: 4 hrs lumping wood around in me cellar - frame of new 45(ish) board is up... Finishing off tonight... Fuck you British weather!!

Frustrating week - board should help... What I did was good tho.

[duncan]

Well done anyone doing something constructive at this uncertain, grey, wet, dark, and locked-down time (and if you touched rock consider yourself a lucky bastard!)

Eccentric phase of pull-ups (fast or slow) tends to irritate my elbows. As lowering is not as relevant to climbing as lifting, I often just do the concentric phase and drop off or step onto a chair rather than lowering. You can apply the same principle to dips.

M - ‘Pickups’: 18mm edge x 40kg x7s. 8km walk. Bought a bouldering mat
T - Shoulder conditioning (side planks, YsTs). 8km walk.
W - Shoulder conditioning. Deep body-weight squats. 6km walk.
T - ‘Pickups’: 40kg x7s. (DOMS after yesterday’s squats).
F - 13km walk.
S - Shoulder conditioning. Deep body-weight squats. Single-leg squats to 90 degrees.
S - ‘Pickups’: 35kg x10s. 10km walk including ~5 mins jog.

Overall Covid recovery is about 50-60%. Getting generally fitter and not collapsing after a decent walk. Quite surprised how weak my legs are: untrained I can usually bust out 2-3 single-leg squats but feel well off this at the moment. I’m sure it will come back fairly quickly and I can then think if I want to start doing any running. Shouldn’t rush into this but vague aims for 2021* involve being hill fit.

I’ve realised I’ve done 6 solid weeks of max. hangs (they were one of the few things that didn’t trigger general fatigue). Feeling a bit tweaky in the usual places so time to have a week off then do a block of something different.

*need to write these down.

[James Malloch]

I looking for some useful benchmarks for tracking progress and thought some PC members could help...

What I've got so far (based on what equipment we have) is:

1) Foot on campus. How many moves for a set sequence (+ maybe set time - e.g. move every 1.5s)
2) One arm hang equivalent (as don't have any pulleys for now - could do with a screw gate if better) - stand on weighing scales & work out % of bodyweight pulled on a set edge.
3) max # of pull ups on bar

I guess things like weighted pull ups would be good to include but we don't have much in the way of weights (20kg currently).

Any advice would be good as I'm keen to see how much having the board improves my general fitness and strength.

[User deactivated.]

2) One arm hang equivalent (as don't have any pulleys for now - could do with a screw gate if better) - stand on weighing scales & work out % of bodyweight pulled on a set edge.
3) max # of pull ups on bar

2) 2-arm hangs and acquire some 5-10 gallon jugs to fill with water (probably doesn't work too well beyond 40kg or so due to bulk).

3) If i recall correctly, Lattice say max pullup reps has almost no correlation with climbing performance. 3-5 rep max is likely more useful. If you don't have enough weight for this, go to 1-arm reps, or 1 arm negatives (5 reps of 8 second negatives with no rest between reps was the strength required to do 1 concentric rep for me)

[tomtom]

Before I got my pulley set up I used therabands with a footloop to provide and benchmark assistance for hangs and one arm work.

[dunnyg]

I tried with bands, but I found it quite annoying. Worth trying if you havent already though.
For one arm pullups Ive come across the progression of opposite hand on wrist/bicep/shoulder, which seems lower faff, and from initial dalliances seems to work ok.

[spidermonkey09]

FOC: see here. Aim for a move a second. Using a metronome app is useful for this.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22064.msg621093.html#msg621093

[SA Chris]

2) 2-arm hangs and acquire some 5-10 gallon jugs to fill with water (probably doesn't work too well beyond 40kg or so due to bulk).

Or use house bricks with holes in plus a sling. I've done it, works fine

[Nibile]

Lost this week's diary.
Mon - weights and possibly Lattice hangs.
Tue - rest.
Wed - TBDL finisher 30/30 x5x10 75 kg. Clean and press finisher 30/30 x3x10 38 kg. Hell.
Thu - rest.
Fri - full stretch plank, ab wheel, farmer's static holds 120 kg 30/30 ×6×2.
Sat - weights.
Sun - boxing bag. Tired.

[James Malloch]

Thanks for the replies - I ended up ordering a pulley so hopefully I'll have enough weight to do some 1 arm hangs. Will give some stuff a go this week. We've had 4 sessions on the board now and we're loving it.

[Will Hunt]

We've had 4 sessions on the board now and we're loving it.

But how do you expect us to enjoy it vicariously without posting photos and video?

[dunnyg]

Pictures or it didnt happen 

[James Malloch]

Pictures or it didnt happen 

How do I put them up on here?

[cheque]

Upload your image to imgbb.com (other image hosting sites are available).

Copy the link it gives you for the image.

Start a new reply to this thread and click on the icon that looks like a picture of the Mona Lisa above the smileys.

This will put a little bit of code into your reply- the letters img in square brackets twice, the second one with a slash in front of it.  Paste the code from imgbb inbetween the two.

When you post your image should appear. 

[SA Chris]

Or link to IG account.

[James Malloch]

Thanks! Board photo is here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31076.msg629991.html#msg629991