[nai]

M Burbage. Play on Zaffs but wasn't happening. Up to Beardown and managed to work it out, got close but ran out of gas.

T 30 mins LI Aero, few bodyweight core things

W few weights and BW exrecises with nipper for PE  big lower body stretch eve

Th Headed to Burbage but sub optimal, soooo cold at Beardown, de-iced it and tried Grzzly LH while I waited for it to dry but only lasted five minutes until my left hand (exposed to the wind) froze and had to abort. Briefly tried Hanging Slab hard version on the way back but all a bit futile

Family walk PM

Big shoulder stretch eve

F Burbage again.  Much more pleasant. Beardown took a bit longer than hoped and needed a few extra beta nuances that had been missing on Monday; then the fillers of Grizzly LH and Beardown LH; and finally Plank Sanction (or some version covering the same ground). Quite tired.

S nowt

S just started warming up for hangs pickups when wife suggested we go out for a walk.

Cold, windy walk

[JohnM]

What’s with the units John? Guessing totalling 7 a week - but how do you decide a unit?

I decided to split the training I want to do in a given week into units that can be done at anytime as my work schedule and motivation varies wildly! I found that planning each session on a particular day left me really unmotivated if I skipped a day or two for some reason and the plan would fail. The units are just based on how long the sessions take and my perception of effort. I gave repeaters a 1 this week but it should only have been a 0.5 really. It doesn't necessarily have to be 7. I will up it to 9 by the end of Feb as I introduce more PE sessions. I try to get the ones I dislike out of the way at the beginning of the week but also try to balance it out so I space out fingery stuff.

[dunnyg]

weight 75-76kg

mon - warm up, short floor core, turkish get ups, kb swing stretch

tu - warm up, kb swings, squats. fingerboard 10s hangs on front 2 and mid 2. Completing some failing some. Hurt skin a bit. 6x10s on 30 slopers, can only do when pinching and nestling, mostly failed. 5A repeaters. 90deg lock offs as repeaters. 7/3/6

we- nowt

thurs- 100 x situp pressup pullup squat (16.07). Had to lie down after.

Fri- Ilkley, back of calf. Ticked a new to me 7A eliminate which felt nails last time

sat- Night session at Shipley to avoid the masses. Quick tick of sleeping beauty 6C, cool problem. Then got lost in the woods.

Sun- Ilkley. Watched will tick first arete. Inspiring. Had a go on sweet dreams stand, did my skin in and took some boomers on to my back. Good problem and will return. Tried polar haze, struggled but almost figure out the moves. Also keen for return. Felt tired.

Felt knackered towards the end of this week. Got out a fair bit, but not getting much milage which I feel makes me climb better. Enjoying falling off the back off the calf though, and nice to have some local projects.
I noticed I drag everything, so I might focus on some half crimp stuff on the fingerboard as I can't drag on some of the holds on sweet dreams.

[Will Hunt]

took some boomers on to my back.

I spent 15 minutes making this so, sorry, I'm milking it.

[dunnyg]

This should be in quality bouldering vids

[duncan]

Well done everyone. Not so easy to stay motivated when who know what will happen next week let alone in six months. Days are getting longer, the vaccine is rolling out, and I’m sticking my fingers in my ears and whistling loudly when anyone mentions viral mutations.

M - Shoulder conditioning (side planks, handstands). Concentric pull-ups: 5x4 sets.
T - Shoulder conditioning. Fingerboard ‘pick-ups’ 18mm edge up to 40kg x 7 seconds.
W - Shoulder conditioning.
T - Shoulder conditioning. Concentric pull-ups: 6x4 sets.
F - 5km walk. Tired after this.
S - Fingerboard ‘pick-ups’ 18mm edge up to 37.5kg x 10 seconds; fingerboard weighted hangs 20mm edge x 90kg x 7 seconds.
S - Fun in the snow with c.5km walked. Exhausted.

Back into Power Club after a few weeks of Covid recovery. Normal service has not been resumed. A tiny bit of ‘cardio.’ leaves me flattened and, being paranoid, the small risk of post-viral myocarditis is still a concern. Running and cycling are out. Obviously not missing the latter but I’d been building up the running over six months, it was just starting to become enjoyable, and had almost hit 10 km for the first time since 1984. Fortunately I can still make quite intense efforts if they are short duration and use small muscle groups: max. fingerboard hangs with plenty of rest don’t result in a hit of fatigue. It’s a bit hard to know where to pitch things but the aim is to keep doing something whilst not inhibiting Covid recovery. Whilst this is medical it is a long way from anything I claim to know anything about. Any thoughts?

[tomtom]

Sounds like you’re doing the right thing Duncan. Any exercise that partially satisfies the doing something need without flattening you is a good approach?

[spidermonkey09]

Made a conscious effort to do some exercise every evening after work last week which did make a difference to my mood.

M - stretching

T - max hangs. Felt weak on the bodyweight ones so moved to 1.25kg assist which went well. Will switch to these now as bodyweight feels optimistic currently. Pullups, pressups, stability hangs +5kg.

W - tried some ab wheel rollouts but struggled to get the form right (all advice welcome). Used newly purchased resistance band to work on one armers. Some core on the bar; nails.Stretching to finish.

T - Anderson hangs. Just the baby version this week, so base weight and then a set with 5kg added. Base weight of +3.75kg on all three edges. Also did a set of bodyweight repeaters on 20mm edge 3FD to help with rehabing annoying ring finger tweak. Some more one armers, ab wheel and stretching.

F - TRX. Experimented with fly position and found it hard but doable. Can only do a few of these though. Ab ripper x after. Can't say I was surprised Liam and Gollum found it easy as they are clearly super fit; I found it hard as usual! Stretching.

S - Went out to Shining Cliff. Long walk in the snow before the sun came out. Went and got pads and tried Goosecreature. Got closer and closer for a while before doing it; absolutely brilliant problem.

S - stretched.

Off work this week which is allowing a catch up on sleep. Weather quite shit but at least January will be over soon!

[User deactivated.]

W - tried some ab wheel rollouts but struggled to get the form right (all advice welcome).

I find the crucial part to be maintaining a locked hollow body position AKA dish shape. Worth a google if you're not familiar with it. A good cue to keep this form is tucking your tailbone under.

And I don't know if this is backed up by science or not, but I tend to get better results from core exercises by holding the position at it's most intense point rather than repping them, i.e. holding the ab wheel position for 10s like a max hang (3-5 sets) and then adding a weight vest or moving to a harder position to progress. My theory is that the primary function of the 'core' is to provide stability, so exercises for anti-extension, anti-rotation, etc. replicate this (specificity). However, I do go back to reps on these exercises when I plateau.

Ab ripper x after. Can't say I was surprised Liam and Gollum found it easy as they are clearly super fit; I found it hard as usual!

Good at non-climbing feats of strength, poor at applying said feats of strength to rock.

[moose]

W - tried some ab wheel rollouts but struggled to get the form right (all advice welcome).

I find the crucial part to be maintaining a locked hollow body position AKA dish shape. Worth a google if you're not familiar with it. A good cue to keep this form is tucking your tailbone under.

There are lots of instructional videos on mistakes to avoid.  The main issues are to maintain a locked hollow-body position - with a pelvic tilt that stops the lower back getting knackered.  Also, when pulling back, lead with the abs; don't let the hip flexors initiate the movement.  If your arse is coming too far back (i.e. further back than a knees-at-90-degrees starting position), then the hips are possibly doing the work, rather than the core.

[sdm]

S - Went out to Shining Cliff. Long walk in the snow before the sun came out. Went and got pads and tried Goosecreature. Got closer and closer for a while before doing it; absolutely brilliant problem.

Fantastic problem, one of my highlights of last year. Did you do it with the jump or the high right heel?

I love a good heel and I'm terrible at jumping so I surprised myself by doing it the jump way. It was quite a hot day and I couldn't get anything out of the sloper. After only just getting my heel off in time for a couple of falls, I decided the heel was too risky without a spot.

The jump still felt a bit scary without spotters - it took a few goes (and a jog back to the car to fetch an extra pad) before I could really commit and convince myself that I wasn't going to miss the pads and go over the little drop behind.

[teestub]

Tried pulling on several times from right hand on the bulb, left hand on the chip, and left heel high and couldn't suss out how to move from there.

Key for me was finding the right thing to push off with my right foot to get in a good position for the roll over, this is height dependent obviously but there are lots of options.

[spidermonkey09]

S - Went out to Shining Cliff. Long walk in the snow before the sun came out. Went and got pads and tried Goosecreature. Got closer and closer for a while before doing it; absolutely brilliant problem.

Fantastic problem, one of my highlights of last year. Did you do it with the jump or the high right heel?

I love a good heel and I'm terrible at jumping so I surprised myself by doing it the jump way. It was quite a hot day and I couldn't get anything out of the sloper. After only just getting my heel off in time for a couple of falls, I decided the heel was too risky without a spot.

The jump still felt a bit scary without spotters - it took a few goes (and a jog back to the car to fetch an extra pad) before I could really commit and convince myself that I wasn't going to miss the pads and go over the little drop behind.

Yeah, it was ace. I found the sloper ok but it was mint which clearly helped. The scary move for me was going with right hand to the lip as a guppy with right heel on, then bumping it to the better flat hold above; quite blind but an amazing move. I kept the right heel on throughout until hands were sorted on sidepulls, then move it down to a toe. I dropped the top move a few times before I found the knack, including once where I managed to do the move with complete control...about 4 inches too far! What is the jump method; left hand to lip and then jump to the flatty with feet off?

Also, whats the score with parking there? I couldn't decide whether it was legit to drive down the track and park in the wood or whether the weird verge outside the house was better.

[sdm]

S - Went out to Shining Cliff. Long walk in the snow before the sun came out. Went and got pads and tried Goosecreature. Got closer and closer for a while before doing it; absolutely brilliant problem.

Fantastic problem, one of my highlights of last year. Did you do it with the jump or the high right heel?

I love a good heel and I'm terrible at jumping so I surprised myself by doing it the jump way. It was quite a hot day and I couldn't get anything out of the sloper. After only just getting my heel off in time for a couple of falls, I decided the heel was too risky without a spot.

The jump still felt a bit scary without spotters - it took a few goes (and a jog back to the car to fetch an extra pad) before I could really commit and convince myself that I wasn't going to miss the pads and go over the little drop behind.

Yeah, it was ace. I found the sloper ok but it was mint which clearly helped. The scary move for me was going with right hand to the lip as a guppy with right heel on, then bumping it to the better flat hold above; quite blind but an amazing move. I kept the right heel on throughout until hands were sorted on sidepulls, then move it down to a toe. I dropped the top move a few times before I found the knack, including once where I managed to do the move with complete control...about 4 inches too far! What is the jump method; left hand to lip and then jump to the flatty with feet off?

Yeah that's the way. The jump is quite blind too, it's hard to hit the flatty well enough to stick it and hold the swing, even though it's a decent hold.

Here's a video of people doing the jump method:

Also, whats the score with parking there? I couldn't decide whether it was legit to drive down the track and park in the wood or whether the weird verge outside the house was better.

Follow the track in to the woods and you can park where the track meets the path that goes below the edge. There's space for about 10 cars if everyone parks considerately.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Arrrggghhh late again!

M: Shoulder stuff - Sore finger
T: Shoulder stuff - Sore finger
W: Drive to Essex and back for a funeral - trashed!
T: Tentative fingerboarding - 20 mins with a few pullups
F: Shoulder stability stuff
S: Tentative fingerboarding - 20 mins with a few pullups
S: Rivellin with daughter - Went to have a look at Faze Action and Cool Runnings... Bit high for my one postage sized pad. Did the LH 6B... Nice to be out.

Worried about finger but seems fine... Just keeping an eye... Back on with it next week.

[Yossarian]

Maintained syke for another week...

M: 8km run / assisted one arms / weighted wide grips / hammer curls, various rings and squats / front lever progression / 10sec 1/2 crimp repeaters
T: Prone shoulder circuit / AbRipperX with kids (not sure if we'll be doing this again in a hurry) / yoga / stretching
W: 6km seafront run with 9year-old / max hangs / aero repeaters
T: Core / stretching
F: 90min walk
S: 8km run / assisted 1 arm / curls and row / z-press / front lever prog / various rings / prone shoulder circuit
S: 3.5hr walk

[cheque]

AbRipperX with kids (not sure if we'll be doing this again in a hurry)

More details please.

[Yossarian]

There was a Jackass Johnny Knoxville farting yoga sketch - the 6 year old basically did that, I got cramp so bad I thought I was having a hernia, and daughter was laughing hysterically both at us and the people on the screen. And my iPad has since developed a terminal fault so we prob can’t watch / do any more dodgy YouTube workouts / yoga app downstairs anymore anyway.