[tomtom]

Power club. Scales showed 69.9 briefly midweek - back to late Nov weight.

Mon: Board. Decent.
Tues: TRX 3x5 prone and supine (?), 2 sets of BM sloper hangs
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Board. Only had 35 min - quick decent burn. Did some one arm scap shrugs
Fri: 2 sets of BM slopers (better) load of 1 arm shrugs
Sat: felt dead. Like shit. (see friday last week - pattern emerging at the end of the working week....)
Sun: Board. 90 min session. Decent. Some more scap shrugs.

Following from here (or one of the other threads) I've introduced a load of 1 arm shoulder shrugs this week. From completely disengaged to engaged (head near ear) whilst trying to maintain a straight arm. These have been quite hard (technique and endurance) to do and hold for 7 secs. Presently with 8kg off on the pulley to make them testing but do-able. Interestingly a noticable weakness in my left side on these - I've noticed a weakeness locking with left and reaching up with right (compared to the other way around) on my board, and with these shrugs its the first board/1 arm exercise I've noticed it on.

No elbow complaints at all this week.

[shark]

Thanks TT

11.7-8 Average 162.3 (down 0.2lbs)
 
M.

T. Home FB warm up PM Tor with dogs balmy 8/9 degrees and rainy. Fresh breeze. Crag a soggy mess. THFML soaked. Crux section of Bens looked condensed and nearly went home but on closer inspection it looked possible it was just sticky damp. Dried holds, Did cross thru move first go. Then toe hook move into stab first go. Unlike before super solid and static moving out of toehook onto pinch (and throughout session) - no idea what the improvement was. Got throw move on 4th attempt.Then had one go from throw but struggled to hold crimp but next attempt stuck it and climbed through to falling on cross thru. Then tried from a move a move further back and almost got thru from there to completing cross thru which is matching previous PB of this section on 29.12 which is still the hardest short section of climbing I’ve ever done - vid below. Tried linking from a move lower still (holding edge and small pocket) a couple of times but didn’t get very far.

W. Didn’t sleep well.
PM 5 sets of 4 Fast pull-ups. Upped added weight from 12lb to 16lb. Chest to bar 11x.
Eve Max weighted deadhangs on ergo edge. Good scores similar to last weeks but had a bit more in the bank at the end for the drags. Happy to be consolidating at this level.

T.

F. Nice day AM 1 set of Recruitment pulls on Ergo Edge and 1 set of speed pulls on 20mm edge. PM Anston with the dogs, 5 degrees. Top of SOul Crusher soaked but hard section driable. Almost did the crux in isolation a couple of times during warm up. Spent most of session failing on first move though did it once with a bum dab. Suspect the heel of the whites are better than the Crawe for this move. Did the second move quickly and unexpectedly  and fell off going into the crux as only got the edge of the slot. In summary only did one proper move in the entire session!

S. Systems board. Gastons sequence 3x. Oak AnCap sequence. 3x first set. 2x second set completed. First go of first felt really good and equalled PB ie getting to penultimate hold. (Had promised myself I’d go easy and just do some AeroCap)

S. Probably velcro out on the grit but tired and a bit tweaky

Was considering having an easy week this week but ended up having a hard one. Similar week to last week with a few marginal gains.

[nai]

Interestingly a noticable weakness in my left side on these - I've noticed a weakeness locking with left and reaching up with right (compared to the other way around) on my board, and with these shrugs its the first board/1 arm exercise I've noticed it on.

Careful with that, Tom. I have similar and it's getting worse, used to be a couple of kg difference, now several. Most noticable when performingexercises that isolate the shoulder more.  Self diagnosis suggests possibly rotator cuff.

[tomtom]

Interestingly a noticable weakness in my left side on these - I've noticed a weakeness locking with left and reaching up with right (compared to the other way around) on my board, and with these shrugs its the first board/1 arm exercise I've noticed it on.

Careful with that, Tom. I have similar and it's getting worse, used to be a couple of kg difference, now several. Most noticable when performingexercises that isolate the shoulder more.  Self diagnosis suggests possibly rotator cuff.

Taa, on the board it means I can keep my body in tight when going up on the good side - but it’s more slappy and out of control the other way.
On the 1arm shrugs they both pull up fine - lh can consistently only hold 5 secs Rh is easy to 7 and beyond. Going to work on it gently.

[csl]

Getting a bit bored of only training now, went out to Mabley Green for a 45 min potter though which was nice.

January Goals
- Climb a 7B on one of the boulders in Hackney, my only local "outdoor" climbing - Did a few of the moves
- 10 mobility sessions. 10/10
- Lose 2kg of Christmas weight - seems to be staying off.
- Try hard on the board and stick to my training plan - missed one planned conditioning exercise this week, tried hard on the board 4x.

Monday
Hangs - 5x7 seconds 2 arm hangs @ 110kg
Board - Limit Moves. Great session, unlocked the crux's of three projects.
AnCap

Tuesday
Rest

Wednesday
Board - about 10-15 medium problems.
Rings - pushups, rows, pike pushups, I's Y's T's.

Mobility - 15 minutes hip flexibility

Thursday
Mabley Green - got there at around 7.45am - didn't realise parking restrictions began at 8.30am so only had 45 mins climbing. Repeated the 6B overhang to warm up and then managed most of the moves on an eliminate version called Au Naturelle which is 7B.

Friday
Hangs - 5x7 seconds 1 arm hangs @ 70kg.
Board - Managed one of my projects, took me 3 sessions. Tried a harder version of a replica I made, didn't quite manage it but made progress.
5x Weighted pullups followed by 5x explosive pullups - 3 sets

Saturday
Board - AnCap + some general messing around.

Sunday

Mobility - 30 minutes hip flexibility

[Will Hunt]

M - took my life in my hands and did the dangerous workout that UKB loves to hate. Escaped with my spine intact, somehow, but not before I'd Brung It.

W - repeaters on the 33mm edge. 8 sets of 6 hangs, alternating between half crimp and open hand. Stopped as form in the shoulders was collapsing.

F - Calf lamps. Did Almost Pleasant then tried Classic Calf. Not sure if I've tried this with the right starting holds before but made some progress and nearly did. Then powered out and got cold. Good sesh but should have warmed up before going out. Dunny looked strong.

Su - Ilkley with dunny. Warmed up a bit at home then onto First Arete. I must have tried this 3 or 4 times before and never made much headway. Connies felt reasonable on it. Figured out the best way to hold all the holds and sussed what to do to get the right hand up to the top hold. Done a few goes later. Big psyche.
On to Sweet Dreams and had a little play on the sit but connies didn't feel great on it. Repeated the stand but had lost psyche for the sit.
Then to Polar Haze. Took a while to figure out the beta for the hard bit by which time we were done in. Have written the beta down so will hopefully go back soon and give it a good go.

Skin a bit thin but psyche is coming back nicely.

[Carl]

STG - 2-3 7B+ [1 complete] in Q1 and some progress on a 7C. If weather cooperates. Stick to fingerboarding if it doesn't.
MTG - get on a rope for some hardish (> F7b) things this year.
LTG - figure out an LTG.

Monday
Weighted pulls. Up to 3x8 at 89 kg total load.

Tuesday
Pushups - ~90, sets of up to 25.
Max hangs - up to 89 kg total load. Felt too easy, need to up the load.

Wednesday
Weighted pulls. Up to 3x9 at 89 kg. Going to switch these to more of a strength focus, so aiming for 5-8 reps rather than 8-10. Will up loading to about 95 kg next session.

Thursday
Max hangs - Tried to increase load slightly but didn't have enough weights to cope with slight bodyweight changes. 89.5 kg total load, still felt good, so will try and crank it up another (small) notch next session.

Friday
Session at Curbar. Repeated Trackside and spent some time on Sidetrack. Should go next visit I think. Ended up going over to Gorilla Warfare and making good progress before seeing some rather interesting visual patterns as a classic migraine aura. Immediately packed up and headed home, happily got back before the headache kicked in properly. Took lots of drugs and went to bed.

Saturday - Still felt a bit crap from the migraine: lingering headache and a bit of a hangover feeling.

Sunday
Nice quiet walk in the morning around Froggatt/Curbar/White Edge. Boulder in the afternoon at Burbage North. Got on Monochrome and managed it fairly quickly which was great. Couldn't get a heel to work on the left so used a toe in a sort of wide bicycle which felt good. Also used an unashamedly lanky sequence off a footlock to get the left hand up high at the start, but still nice to tick off a 7B fairly quickly.
Then wore through any remaining skin on Asylum Sika, which I thought I was either doing completely wrong or was nails, as I couldn't really fathom stringing the moves together. Further investigation into the line from videos online revealed that the line most people did appeared to start about 5 moves in from what we were trying - whoops. Although there were some questionable definitions of "sit-start"...
Wandered over to look at the full lie-down start to Zaff Skoczylas afterwards. Really is a lot worse than the sit IMO! Might go on a super strong day, but will need to try it on thick skin to know for sure.


Overall good. Got outside when it was possible, stuck to training when it wasn't. Continued to try hard boulders, even if I was mostly just falling off.

[Duma]

M - Run, 5.65k, flat, pavement, 25:27. Initially thought this route was 5k, and was a bit disappointed. Checked and came out at 7k, really pleased! Reality turned out to be in between. Shoulder rehab.
T - Board, 1hr. Took it a bit easier than Sunday but still trying hard. Shoulder rehab.
W - Run, 4
3.65k, flat, pavement, 15:13. Wanted to see how quick my 5k was, so took Monday's route that I thought was 7k, and turned round a k early. Suspiciously quick it turned out, so I rechecked and finally came up with a realistic measurement. Bit of a come down... Stretching. Not convinced my shoulder rehab  was helping, so decided to give it a miss for a few days.
T - 100 each pull ups, sit ups, press ups, squats. Fast as poss. 30:13. SU and squats easy, press ups ok, pull ups nails.
F - Run, 5k, flat, pavement, 21:30. Different route this time, finally managed a 5k! Would like to get this under 20 min and could feel the tiredness in my legs today so should be a bit of room for improvement. Hopefully a bit more rested, and not after a 12hr shift will scrape under. Stretching. Shoulder pretty uncomfortable after Thursday's antics. Idiot.
S - hour on the singlespeed after work.
S - same again.

70kg. Happy to be back and stable at target weight.
Was hoping to have done some board or one arm stuff this weekend but shoulder has been feeling dodgy so giving it a few days.

[RobK]

M - Rest.

T - Rest. Had planned a session but had forgotten I had a dentist appointment and then no motivation when I got back.

W - Max hangs +24kg, failure on last few reps equalling PB. Followed by an hour on the board making up and ticking a new problem. Finished with Crimpd AeroCap repeaters @ -15kg. Felt really easy with lower levels of pump than last time. Nice.

T - AnCap on the board. 7 laps of yellow circuits. Reduced the rests from last time (5 min between circuits, 50 sec rest in the middle). Failure on last rep. Good but re-opened a nasty split on my pinky joint.

F - Rest.

S - Max hangs, thought the warm up felt hard and then could barely hang 20kg. Was quite demoralised until I realised I had tape over my pinky split which was reducing friction a bit. Tried 24kg without tape and all OK but rather painful and no way split is going to heal doing that so sacked it off. Might try max hangs with F3 next time as a change. Fine to board climb with the tape though so an hour making up a new project and making some good progress. Offset pull ups to finish with.

S - Crimpd AnCap 80% repeaters +5kg. Really like these, feel like I got good gains from them last year but haven't done them in favour of board sessions this winter. Kinder on the skin though so thought this was a good opportunity to revisit them. Finished with 100 press ups and 50 V-Sits whilst watching the football. Don't want to be shown up in the topless Malham scenes come spring.

A mixed week. Lack of motivation initially but then two good sessions Wed and Thur. Until I realised the tape issue I was feeling pretty low after Saturday's fingerboard, amazing how one bad session can get to me, probably something to work on. Hoping I can sort this split out soon but in the mean time the change to some sessions might be nice.

[shark]

Was quite demoralised until I realised I had tape over my pinky split which was reducing friction a bit. Tried 24kg without tape and all OK but rather painful and no way split is going to heal doing that so sacked it off.

Try taping with a single layer overlapped at the nail with superglue smeared all over the sticky side. That way you get feel and no slippage. Shown a few doubters this and it’s always worked well for them. Recently showed one wad this technique (which I got years ago from John Welford) and he was able to pull on the crimps of Evolution with a split tip.

[SA Chris]

before seeing some rather interesting visual patterns as a classic migraine aura.

OT, but do you get the visual patterns as pre-empting a full migraine? I get visual migraines, but they never amount to anything other than that.

[User deactivated.]

Average weight: 83.5kg

M - Board. Screwed footholds and other bits of wood above most of the good crimps, to create slots, mainly so I can't full crimp them but also to improve accuracy. Bad crimps remain full crimp-able. Hoping this will help my over reliance on this position.

T - Max hangs. No progress

W - Skateboard. Spent some time putting a basic line together: Backside 180, fakie pop-shuv, revert, heelflip. Fun!

T - Max hangs. No progress

F - Rings. Strict muscle ups +20kg for 3 x 5 reps. Few goes at a 'felge' (back roll to ring support position). Managed to grind one out with horrible form and felt like both biceps were about to snap. Pulling movements done for the day. Chest to wall handstand pressups on paralettes for deeper range. Hard. Finished with ab ripper X. Pumped, but I still don't believe it will do much so probably won't try again. font 6B.

S - Set off to Shipley for red baron roof. Wet snow on the way so checked the forecast and diverted to Almscliff. Warmed up on the virgin boulder and repeated crusis. Definitely not 7B seeing as I can get the top break with my feet still in the lower break on tip-toes. Headed over to look at the bulb. Tried pulling on several times from right hand on the bulb, left hand on the chip, and left heel high and couldn't suss out how to move from there. Got bored and moved to Underhand for the extension. Repeated underhand about 8 times after relearning the moves, but still failed to do the extension, each time getting about as far as the crimps on the traverse and then instantly powering out. In an attempt to at least tick something new I headed up to dreamland which i've never tried before. Figured out how to pull on and a few tries later hit the good sloper and matched it, instant power out and couldn't pull my feet up to finish. Realised it was home time.

S - skateboard. 3 weeks in and snapped kingpin on the truck already, damnit!

0.5-1hr flexibility/mobility route every night.

[RobK]

Thanks Shark and tomtom. It's not actually a tip that's split, it's the the crease of the joint that has come open. As tt says I would definitely give the super glue a try mid-season but will probably just take the opportunity to change things up a little at the moment. Hopefully it'll only take a week or so being diligent with the moisturiser.

[gollum]

W/C 18/1/21

M - Walk, abs, chest, yoga and stretch, small holds
T - Walk, abs, yoga, triceps, pinches and monos
W - Walk, abs, pull-ups, yoga, repeaters
T - Walk, abs, pinches and monos, biceps, yoga
F - Walk, abs, shoulders, yoga, repeaters
S - Walk, abs, yoga
S - Walk, abs, yoga

Counting the weeks, (nearly) two down and at least four to go, maybe as many as ten (or more). Routine is what will keep me happy and busy.

M - Standard 5k walk around the block.
5 minute plank to get started with abs work. Move on to 4x20 second L sits. With levers do three sets of straddle levers for as long as possible and then 3 slow negatives, which definitely work my back. Next is three sets of 60 seconds of each of high side planks on each side and hollow bodies. Finish abs with abs roller for 100 paused reps.
Today is chest day and start with Bring Sally Up which I’ve not tried in quite a while. Get to 1:42 before I give up, so think I will enjoy working on this. After a decent rest do 5x5 Ts on the overhead TRX. Next do 4x10 deficit press-ups again under the TRX which just sorrels so unstable and like it is working stabilising muscles much more than using fixed hands. Next do 3x10 band presses and finish with 3x12 band flys with a heavy band behind and a light one in front to maintain tension throughout.
Today’s yoga is hip flexibility based and then do a bit more hip work based on a clip on here, plus some work on calf strength and mobility to make sure my calf is still on the road to recovery and that I don’t just ignore it.
For finger work today, do some small edge stuff. I’m inspired by a Insta clip of Dai Koyamada hanging a 6mm edge with 32k added for a total of 91k including bodyweight for around 5 seconds, so see what I can do for 5 seconds on an 8mm edge. Start with bodyweight and build up slowly over 9 sets to finish with 5 seconds with 30k added which is a total of a few grams over 100 in total. Will work on 7mm next week and see how far I get.

T - Usual 5k walk first thing in the morning. 
Back home, do an easier abs session again, 10 x1 minute planks with a minute between sets and then 60 paused abs roll outs. For obliques do 3x50 Russian twists.
Today’s yoga is built around hip, core and lower back work and I manage to touch my toes with straight legs while seated for the first time in about 30 years, still a long way off doing it standing though.
Start triceps training with 4x12 goblet presses. Next is dumbbell skull crushers for 4x10 and then crush presses for 4x12. Finish dumbbell section off with 4x8. Band extensions next for 3x12 followed by 3x8 bodyweight skull crushers and finish triceps with 4x10 bench dips. Do some calf exercises and some single leg squatting work to top it all off.
Pinches and monos in the afternoon. Start with square block three sets of 5 seconds with 22k, three with 23k. On the flared block use 16k for the first four sets and then 17k for the last two sets. First two sets feel nails, next two feel steady and last two feel oddly easier than the first two despite slightly heavier weight. On Mono Trainer do four sets of 5 seconds on each finger with 36k of weight. On the first joint mono stuff I do three sets of 5 seconds on each finger. On first finger add 20k on each set, on middle finger 28k, on ring and pinkie add 18k on first set and 20 on others, don’t quite manage a full 5 on LH pinkie on either set, so do some additional sets with 18 for a longer time. Spend some time stretching fingers, flexors and extensors when I’m finished.

W - 5k walk in the pouring rain.
Going for another reasonably hard day of abs. Start with 5 minute plank. L sits for 4x20 seconds, concentrating on keeping legs straight. Do 3x15 second levers with one leg tucked, slowly extending tucked leg at 10 seconds. Then spend some time doing German hangs and tucked back levers, including doing a band supported back lever, once I figure out what to do with the band. I’ve never tried this on a bar before, only rings, and pleased with effort. Continue bar work with three sets of lever negatives. For obliques do 3x25 windscreen wipers. Finish with 50 easy but very slow roll out with roller.
Start pull-ups for single OAP. On first two sets am unsupported on RH, minus 4k on LH, but feel really good so move to plus 2k on RH and minus 2k on LH for last three sets. 3x5 second hangs locksat full,90 and 120, this week doing them all on the bar, which is a bit harder for me. 5x6 weighted pull-ups with plus 20k. Next is 5x5 deficit pull-ups on each arm.
Yoga today is focused on flexibility in the hips, hamstrings and shoulders.
Repeater session in the afternoon and all are solid enough, including now being able to hang the 45° slopes when I cheat. Have replaced 8mm edges with 7mm and at start of session thought I couldn’t hang them but once warmed up and bedded in a bit, I was able to do a complete set of 6x7 seconds on them, even if it was most definitely by the skin of my teeth.
In the evening discover an exercise that I haven’t done in ages but is probably good for me every now and then to strengthen my lower back and glutes, hence 3x10 superman holds.

T - Out early again for a very wet  and fairly cold 5k walk.
Easier abs again. Start with 3x3min on 3minute off planks. Move on to 3x80 Russian twists. 3x12 Superman holds with 100 paused reps with the abs roller to finish off.
Pinches and monos again. On square block start with 22 but feels so good after first set that do other 5 with 24k and all are solid. On flared block do a set at 16, one at 17 and other 4 at 18k, again feeling solid. Gravity must be low. On monos do 4x5 seconds on Mono Trainer with 36k. On first joint mono do 3x5 with 20k on all fingers bar middle fingers where use 30k. Pleased with LH pinkie holding same as other fingers.
In the afternoon do a biceps session. Start with 3x8 strict standing curls on each arm.  Follow this with 3x12 goblet curls. 3x10 standing barbell curls. 3x10 seated curls. 3x10 drag curls done as a superset is next.   Then do 3 sets of 21s which get a good burn going in the arm. Move onto band curls. Do 3x8 hammer curls first, then do Zottman curls for 3x12. Finish bicep work with close grip curls for 3x8. Still making the mist of what I’ve got available. Do some calf raises and stretches and some single leg squat work to help maintain rehab and finally do an elbow planche which feels strong.
Focus of today’s yoga was stretching the back and certainly loosened it up a good bit.

F - Normal early morning walk on a cold but dry day.
Aim is hard abs session. Start with a plank and stop while still feeling strong at 5:15. Move on to doing 4x8 L-sit pull-ups, which take me approximately same time as L sits I’d previously been doing with the benefit of some back work and working abs against instability. Then go into one leg 4 sets of tucked levers, extending the leg to full lever. This seems to allow me to be more solid in the set up and I’m holding the full lever for around 4-5 seconds on each set. Then do back levers with band support. On first set use purple band and feels steady and form looks good, on second use a black band and is still solid, on third use a red band and feels okay, so give it a go to see if I can do one without a band and bleeding hell I’ve now actually done a back lever, a very brief one with shit form but a back lever nonetheless (probably). For obliques do 4x25 windscreen wipers. Finish abs with 50 easy paused reps on the abs roller.
Later move onto upper body work, concentrating on shoulders. Start with overhead TRX probe Ts  for 4x6. Move on to prone Ys and Is as a superset for 5x5 each, dropping to knees for Is. Move on to supine TRX Ts,Ys and Is for 4x6 as a triset. Move on to HSPU with feet against wall to a block for three sets each to failure, manage 5,3, 5 and then after a good rest try to do a single rep to the floor which feels so close but I can’t quite do, so I rest again and then manage to do it. Will enjoy building on this as think it’s one of best exercises around. Next comes 3x6 lateral raise/front raise combo exercise. Do 3x5 single arm scap raises and 3x8 bilateral scap raises. Finish with third exercise called IYT laid on floor and raising very light dumbbells whilst laid on floor. These last exercises should help keep my shoulders healthy, hopefully.
To give them a bit of TLC do a yoga session which is based on releasing tension in the shoulders and neck, which felt great.
Repeaters to finish the day’s planned training. Add weight on first set and then as am going through, I work out which other sets I can add weight too. All feels pretty good and 7mm is definitely less skin of my teeth than Wednesday.
Do the Abs Ripper X to see what all the fuss is about. Managed it all, doing harder variations, except didn’t manage the reverse cycle thing as couldn’t coordinate my brain so ended up doing cycling thing twice. Broke a sweat (just), abs had worked a bit, could have gone a good bit longer, lack of hamstring flexibility will have made some exercises easier but some harder. Sure it works your abs, less convinced about the core. Won’t be a regular participant, but may do it again at some point.

S - Out early for my walk. Crisp, cold but very relaxing.
Steady 100 reps with the abs roller and then abs based yoga for a very easy day.

S - Another crisp cold walk with virtually nobody else out and about.
3x12 abs roller reps with feet on floor and strict form, but a decent rest between sets.
Yoga for flexibility in hips and hamstrings today.

Still keeping psyche high and building a long list of things I want to do when able to get back outside, both in UK and abroad (and a couple of things I want to do inside).

[Carl]

OT, but do you get the visual patterns as pre-empting a full migraine? I get visual migraines, but they never amount to anything other than that.

I think I've always got a full migraine after noticing an obvious aura, but I get them pretty infrequently, once every year or two, so hard to know for sure. Interestingly I don't usually get much of an interesting aura, just a blind spot in my vision, but this time was very obvious zig-zagging coloured lines. Actually might have found it rather interesting if I could have focused on it rather than rushing home!

So you've never had the aura progress to any headache/nausea/etc.?

[moose]

Su - Ilkley with dunny. Warmed up a bit at home then onto First Arete. I must have tried this 3 or 4 times before and never made much headway. Connies felt reasonable on it. Figured out the best way to hold all the holds and sussed what to do to get the right hand up to the top hold. Done a few goes later. Big psyche.

I try First Arete every few years, and have never figured out what to do with my feet once I'm established on those horrible crimps.

[SA Chris]

OT, but do you get the visual patterns as pre-empting a full migraine? I get visual migraines, but they never amount to anything other than that.

I think I've always got a full migraine after noticing an obvious aura, but I get them pretty infrequently, once every year or two, so hard to know for sure. Interestingly I don't usually get much of an interesting aura, just a blind spot in my vision, but this time was very obvious zig-zagging coloured lines. Actually might have found it rather interesting if I could have focused on it rather than rushing home!

So you've never had the aura progress to any headache/nausea/etc.?

Nope, just get some "popping" and wavy effects at the peripheries of vision, but will usually disappear after a few minutes. Feels slightly disorientating when it happens, but nothing after that.

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - ab roll, push ups, clean, press, snatch pulls circuit x4. Short on time, no warm up, agony.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board, one foot bouldering. Strong and precise on problem 2 +2 kg. Just barely on problem 1 +8 kg, forearms already tired! Some undercling pulls then weights.
Thu - pulling circuit: TBDL 100×5, pull ups x5, snatch 40x5, high pulls 40x5, broad jumps x5, all x6. Nice.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights. 55 dumbbell sets.
Sun - 6 boxing rounds, hill sprints.

[Carl]

Nope, just get some "popping" and wavy effects at the peripheries of vision, but will usually disappear after a few minutes. Feels slightly disorientating when it happens, but nothing after that.

Long may that continue! I can't recommend migraine headaches...

[SA Chris]

No, one of my climbing mates gets them really bad, can debilitate him for a whole day, even with cocodamol.

[Will Hunt]

Su - Ilkley with dunny. Warmed up a bit at home then onto First Arete. I must have tried this 3 or 4 times before and never made much headway. Connies felt reasonable on it. Figured out the best way to hold all the holds and sussed what to do to get the right hand up to the top hold. Done a few goes later. Big psyche.

I try First Arete every few years, and have never figured out what to do with my feet once I'm established on those horrible crimps.

Rather than post it here and risk another thread split, I will resurrect your First Arete beta thread and describe it there as I'm not sure it was ever mentioned.

[Coops_13]

T: Lower body stretching. Push. Bench press up to 210lb X3 *3sets (accidental PR as forgot to remove a plate). Incline press, shoulder press, front and lateral raise. 10 mins incline walk

W: Lower body stretching. Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl X15 *2sets. Leg exercises. 10 mins incline walk

T: Lower body stretching. Denver Bouldering Club. Fingerboard rehab for various injuries (back on it). Testing session up to +45lb on 18mm. Boulders up to M+, good session. Felt weak but nice to pull on longer boulders again. Definitely felt more worked than after my recent outdoor sessions. Muscle-ups for first time in maybe a year - managed only 6... Tested false grip on rings but wrists not up for ring muscle-ups. Set of dips. Shoulder stability exercises, bicep curls and leg exercises to finish

S: Hick Boulder. Warmed up and sent Fat Lady Right V8 first go from bottom. Got to work on Cowboy Love V9, felt hard. Managed to work the first few moves but couldn't figure out the next couple (beta I've seen uses a R heel-toe that I couldn't do with my knee). Did the top as well. Moved onto The Hick, a sandbag V5 that was really good - psyched to get that. Tried to repeat Fat Lady V7 at end but skin too sore and fingers tired


S: Keystone Skiing. First time out in a while - knee in a slightly better place. Seems to be sore in big turns L (going fast or big moguls). Don't think I'll do much more skiing this season - not too fussed as a bit bored of Keystone and I70 traffic. Saw c. 30 Bison on the drive home though - never seen them in CO before...

[JohnM]

M - Rest

T - Weighted pull ups (3 x 3 24kg, 3 x 5 15kg, 3 x 8 10kg) (1 unit)

W - Light jog 5km 145m. Assisted 1 arm hangs (BM middle slot) (0.5 units) + offset pullups (3 x 3 15 mm edge assistance, 3 x 5 18 mm edge assistance, 3 x 8 30 mm edge assistance (1 unit).

T - Trail run 10km 332m. BW 2 arm hangs slopers and pockets (0.5 units). Weighted 2 arms hangs. (1 x 10kg, 1 x 15kg, 1 x 20kg, 5 x 25kg) (0.5 units).

F - Shoulder stability and core (0.5 units). Repeaters (6 x 6 secs on 4 off for a minute - 3 minute rest) (1 unit).

S - Assisted one arm pullups. (20 travelling pullups, 5 x 2 sling assisted each arm, 5 x 1 pulley assisted each arm) (1 unit).

S - X-country skiing 20km 350m. Assisted one arm hangs BM middle edge (0.5 units) and foam rolling, elbow and shoulder isolation weights (0.5 units).   

Pretty solid week apart from reduced running volume after recovering from sciatica. Happy do all 7 units for the climbing training.

[tomtom]

What’s with the units John? Guessing totalling 7 a week - but how do you decide a unit?

[cheque]

I assumed it was how much he drinks during each session.