Overall felt very steady - easier than First Arete? The grades at Ilkley seem to be all over the place.
Quote from: Will Hunt on January 31, 2021, 03:44:32 pmOverall felt very steady - easier than First Arete? The grades at Ilkley seem to be all over the place.Is this an official Hunt downgrade of Superset, or a fleetingly rare Hunt upgrade is First Arête, or maybe both?
Returned to First arete and dropped the top 3 times before calling it a day. Bradders cruised it, which was impressive to see.
Quote from: teestub on January 31, 2021, 05:55:50 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on January 31, 2021, 03:44:32 pmOverall felt very steady - easier than First Arete? The grades at Ilkley seem to be all over the place.Is this an official Hunt downgrade of Superset, or a fleetingly rare Hunt upgrade is First Arête, or maybe both?Probably both? I don't think either is wildly out, but if I was to draw up a graded list of the 7th grade problems I've done at Ilkley it probably wouldn't be in the order that the guidebook grades would put it in.
Ticked sweet dreams stand in a few goes (beta worked out last time).
Saw who could only have been Shark on his last couple of attempts at Ben's for the day as well.
Quote from: shark on January 31, 2021, 08:54:09 pm My hangs not maximal enough for Ben's!
- 10 mobility sessions. 11/10. Actually enjoying this. Going to up this to 4x weekly.
Quote from: dunnyg on January 31, 2021, 06:17:10 pmTicked sweet dreams stand in a few goes (beta worked out last time). Did you heel-hook the sit start flake for the first move
Had a go at superset but couldn't get my right foot weighted properly when doing the throw to the crack.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on February 01, 2021, 12:13:01 amHad a go at superset but couldn't get my right foot weighted properly when doing the throw to the crack.Where are you putting the right foot? When I tried it previously, and at first on Saturday, I put my toe in the bottom-right horizontal of the W. The move to the crack is then quite dynamic and I found even as I touched the crack my foot was coming off and I was swinging away. If you put your toe in the left-hand diagonal of the W then you really toe into it and it locks you into position - making the hand move to the crack fairly static. You then shift your hips rightwards which allows you to take your left hand off and get it matched in the crack.
Gollum's high foot beta sounds ok too. Is that starting with a high-foot in the hole straight off the mat?
I think I got into position that way, but think I went with my left backhanded into the crack with my right sort of side pulling/undercutting on a ripple on the square. It’s not absolutely impossible it was my left foot in the square. I remember it being very contorted and powerful. I apologise for not being able to remember the beta, generally I can’t remember 15 seconds later, never mind 15 years and I struggle with the whole left and right thing, much to my climbing partners’ hilarity. “ move your left hand, no your other left hand”. It’s like everything I feels on sight for me.
Completed Bring Sally Up pressup challenge (would be interested how gollum/liam go on this!)
Pop is a new finger injury on RH to compliment the ones on my L. I was hungover and second day on but no warning signs as I felt fine and I was effectively pulling on a jug when it went. Getting an ultrasound scan tomorrow to diagnose - hope it isn't a full rupture as pain not too bad but never had a pop that loud. Fuck.
ffs Coops
Is the Flatirons rock the same coarse sandstone as on Flagstaff Mountain, that they call gritstone, but isn't?
Bench press up to 205lb Hangs 18mm 10s +45lb Max weighted pull-ups crimpd test, got to +100lb X2reps. Front lever pulls X6,Weighted pull-ups X5 *5 +85lb.had a play on Captain Hook V9 - not strong enough.
Yo ever considered warming up at home? After discussion on here I'm a convert.