[Will Hunt]

It's kind of telling that rock sharpness seems to be a recurring theme here. Not one particular problem, but I was disappointed in Eskdale Fisherground. Having been anticipating a trip there for quite a while I did the stand to Rob's Wall, the sit to Strong Arete, and a couple of pleasant easy highballs. We went searching for more quality and didn't really find it. For such an extensive, hyped area I thought it delivered relatively little. And that rock! Cheese graters would blush. I don't think I'll be going back. I've similar thoughts about Carrock Fell, but I think we missed the best bit of it - seems like a venue that comes into its own in the mid-high 7s.

[Fiend]

@ mrjonathanr - please give a wad point to MOOSE as I just directly copied his description from the First Arete thread 

[tomtom]

I toyed with the idea of Fight on Black. I'd been looking forward to it for years and ended up a bit disappointed as I didn't think the movement matched up to the quality of the line and history. But I'm conscious that I had reeeeeeally thin skin when I did it and it ended up as a race against time before I split. I seem to remember doing it as you did it TT, with a blind foothold that I had to put huge tick marks on (I brushed them off afterwards obvs) to guide me into it - I think shorter/more flexible people tend to do a high heel on the arête instead which maybe feels better. More a case of having a 1-star experience on a 3-star problem than something actually being overrated.

May also be a case of missing out a final foot/hand shuffle up the RH side before slapping the top if you're tall... that may detract from the experience (see below) - however I remember taping up my left index finger - and basically it only feeling alright once I'd had about 5 or 6 goes and my left finger had become numb to the pain... and the top fucking break was damp and green...

Whilst Fiend has moaned mentioned problems being crap because of not being normal height tall ( :D ) for the taller climbers, classics can become - erm - far less classic because you lank/reach past a tricky bit that is integral to the enjoyment/movement of the problem. Of course you can always go and do it without a lank method....

I'm tempted to say Crag X - as whilst is an amazing spot and I love it - I'm struggling to say I've thought any of the problems I've done there are actually any good... the HUUGE caveat is that the harderst thing I've done there is 7B so the much greater number of harder problems there may be boss - in which case I'm talking shite :D

[tomtom]

It's kind of telling that rock sharpness seems to be a recurring theme here. Not one particular problem, but I was disappointed in Eskdale Fisherground. Having been anticipating a trip there for quite a while I did the stand to Rob's Wall, the sit to Strong Arete, and a couple of pleasant easy highballs. We went searching for more quality and didn't really find it. For such an extensive, hyped area I thought it delivered relatively little. And that rock! Cheese graters would blush. I don't think I'll be going back. I've similar thoughts about Carrock Fell, but I think we missed the best bit of it - seems like a venue that comes into its own in the mid-high 7s.

Carrock is superb! Having consistently been spanked by anything with a 7 in it, I've climbed loads of top quality 6's there... superb venue...

I liked Eskdale Fishground (rock is superb!) but didn't do much exploring... perhaps its not extensive as you hoped? Robs is tip top though. 3* all the way.

[teestub]

It's kind of telling that rock sharpness seems to be a recurring theme here.

It’s a funny one isn’t it, sometimes it seems to be a deal breaker but not other times. For example Lad Stones has a lot of v sharp holds and rock, but I love it there and I don’t think it detracts from the overall experience.

With a lot of grit problems with sharp holds (FoB being a good example) for me part of the problem solving has always been how to use those holds without pulling too hard and fucking your skin.

[SA Chris]

Interestingly, no County probs have been mentioned.

I find a lot of the stuff under the right roof at Back Bowden generally disappointing; confusion of holds, random starts & finishes, chalk, broken flakes and polish.

A bit like Dumbarton

[Fiend]

I've similar thoughts about Carrock Fell, but I think we missed the best bit of it - seems like a venue that comes into its own in the mid-high 6s.

Fixed. Genuinely great stuff around the 6s mark, and a lot of it and varied too. But it's best viewed like gritstone as far as conditions choices go.

[Bonjoy]

I was a bit disappointed by Brain Dead at Cratcliffe. Not bad by any means but the moves left me a bit underwhelmed at the top even without properly lanking it!

It climbs much better on the right side.

The problem with Brain Dead is if you're expecting a 6C on the left or right, starting off the RH ledge, you're going to be a bit disappointed with the lovely but easy highball 6B you get, and if you're expecting a 6C starting off the ground on the left, you're going to be a bit disappointed in the grim >7A "foot in armpit" prolapse-inducing grovel you get.

There's probably quite a few blocs that would be considerably less bogus and disappointing if they had accurate descriptions and grades...

Start on the left using a knee smear instead of super high foot, finish on the right. It'll be an amazing problem one day when the start jug falls off.


WSS - At least it doesn't involve pulling on that hideous lh pebble anymore. Used to leave a numb patch on the side of my index finger for a week every time I tried it.

[Bradders]

It’s a funny one isn’t it, sometimes it seems to be a deal breaker but not other times. For example Lad Stones has a lot of v sharp holds and rock, but I love it there and I don’t think it detracts from the overall experience.

I was thinking of mentioning Lad Stones. I've only been once, and my experience was certainly affected by being on my own on a fairly humid day, but I was really disappointed. Suspect I just need to go back in good connies and with a big team though.

[gme]

Interestingly, no County probs have been mentioned.

I find a lot of the stuff under the right roof at Back Bowden generally disappointing; confusion of holds, random starts & finishes, chalk, broken flakes and polish.

A bit like Dumbarton

I kind of agree with the disappointing bit as its not typical county quality but dont get the reasons. The main problems are all obvious and non eliminate, not broken from memory and all can be finished properly but no one does.. Some of Dans stuff takes a bit to work out but thats more due to them looking impossible.

[Banana finger]

Blind date. Burbage. Looks amazing but really pokey to climb. Spoils blind fig by making it an eliminate.

[tomtom]

Blind date. Burbage. Looks amazing but really pokey to climb. Spoils blind fig by making it an eliminate.

Ha - I was going to say the opposite- looks rubbish but climbs really well! Bit of power - good bit of knack and body position.

[nai]

That's a good reminder - Banana Finger - make a vanilla move, fiddle around in a slot, more vanilla, lie on the slab, finish.

[highrepute]

I've done and enjoyed almost every problem mentioned on here. Think you lot need to stick to trad climbing or something.

Magic Wood. Crowded with choads, no views, every problem starts in a pit/doesn't top out/has a really dodge landing. I love bouldering in switz but thought this was awful. Maybe it comes into it's own in the 8s?

[JamieG]

I've done and enjoyed almost every problem mentioned on here. Think you lot need to stick to trad climbing or something.

I don't know about that James! Trad climbing adds a whole new level for quality looking line but awful climbing/experience. Bertie's Bugbear at Wimberry looks quality and is a low grade classic. In the end it was a slippery scary mess. My gear fell out as I tried to back off the damp greenness I'd ended up on. And as if it wasn't slippery enough already there was an actual banana skin stuck in the crack/groove!

[Johnny Brown]

I've done and enjoyed almost every problem mentioned on here. Think you lot need to stick to trad climbing or something.

Just my thinking, a sorry read indeed, 'Classics I found harder than I wanted them to be'. Anyone slagging NTBTA needs to stick to their shitty eliminate cave they presumably prefer. And don't get me started on the irony of not liking Deliverance because its popular.

Blind date. Burbage. Looks amazing but really pokey to climb. Spoils blind fig by making it an eliminate.

Although this is bang on tbf.

[Ged]

Or "classics that look good, and I really want to climb, but are just so damn painful they aren't really that enjoyable"

[User deactivated]

I toyed with the idea of Fight on Black. I'd been looking forward to it for years and ended up a bit disappointed as I didn't think the movement matched up to the quality of the line and history. But I'm conscious that I had reeeeeeally thin skin when I did it and it ended up as a race against time before I split. I seem to remember doing it as you did it TT, with a blind foothold that I had to put huge tick marks on (I brushed them off afterwards obvs) to guide me into it - I think shorter/more flexible people tend to do a high heel on the arête instead which maybe feels better. More a case of having a 1-star experience on a 3-star problem than something actually being overrated.

May also be a case of missing out a final foot/hand shuffle up the RH side before slapping the top if you're tall... that may detract from the experience (see below) - however I remember taping up my left index finger - and basically it only feeling alright once I'd had about 5 or 6 goes and my left finger had become numb to the pain... and the top fucking break was damp and green...

Whilst Fiend has moaned mentioned problems being crap because of not being normal height tall ( :D ) for the taller climbers, classics can become - erm - far less classic because you lank/reach past a tricky bit that is integral to the enjoyment/movement of the problem. Of course you can always go and do it without a lank method....

I'm tempted to say Crag X - as whilst is an amazing spot and I love it - I'm struggling to say I've thought any of the problems I've done there are actually any good... the HUUGE caveat is that the harderst thing I've done there is 7B so the much greater number of harder problems there may be boss - in which case I'm talking shite :D

I mean the threads about individual blocs not crags but I’ll defend X for what’s it worth.

Along with Badger it’s the best peak lime has to offer bouldering wise for me. Not sure how much that says of the quality but they do certainly beat the other lime crags I’ve been to in the area hands down.

Crags a nice height, with good landings, decent rock, not a sun trap. Has plenty of history.

The Hulk is brilliant, and I enjoyed Pink Indians, SpiderMan, Jason’s/Sean’s.

Compared to stuff at a similar grade at the tor or rubicon they are imo at least miles better.

[AMorris]

I've done and enjoyed almost every problem mentioned on here. Think you lot need to stick to trad climbing or something.

Magic Wood. Crowded with choads, no views, every problem starts in a pit/doesn't top out/has a really dodge landing. I love bouldering in switz but thought this was awful. Maybe it comes into it's own in the 8s?

If we are including stuff on ropes (which we probably aren't) then I would put on the table basically every mid grade slate slab after you have done a dozen or so slate slabs that season. Here follows a lesson on how to climb 90% of HVS-E6 slate slabs (which is 80% of all slate):

step 1) run it out on a polished and committed but fairly easy start to an uncomfortable bolt at 7m.
step 2) do the crux rock over on a small edge, then perhaps do a few more. The grade of the route is a mathematically rigorous function of hold size and how close to your ear you have to get your foot. Clip another bolt.
step 3) run it out on easy ground to the top.
bonus step) use a skyhook somewhere.

Most slate routes are just other slate routes but at a different grade. I quite like it though.

[Bradders]

Or "classics that look good, and I really want to climb, but are just so damn painful they aren't really that enjoyable"

This seems a fair way to describe it, on the basis there are plenty of "classics that look good and I really want to climb but aren't unpleasantly painful/grim"...

Along those lines then; Precious in Glen Croe. Absolutely flipping banging line, big steep arete, just really classic. But I've been on it twice and both times come away with a finger injury from the utterly disgusting pocket you have to use. The pocket on AWOL is a joy in comparison.

Still really want to do it though 

[tomtom]

Fair enough Jack hence my caveat that I'm not operating at the grade to make the most of it...

It is a lovely spot. Without doubt.

[SA Chris]

I kind of agree with the disappointing bit as its not typical county quality but dont get the reasons. The main problems are all obvious and non eliminate, not broken from memory and all can be finished properly but no one does.. Some of Dans stuff takes a bit to work out but thats more due to them looking impossible.

Problem is the main problems have been blurred by the non-main problems into a mess of lines and eliminates, not all of which are worth writing up individually (IMO). There are quite a few obvious places where flakes have been snapped off? I think the area is a victim of good conditions, and can be climbed on in the wet, even though you shouldn't.

[remus]

Just my thinking, a sorry read indeed, 'Classics I found harder than I wanted them to be'. Anyone slagging NTBTA needs to stick to their shitty eliminate cave they presumably prefer. And don't get me started on the irony of not liking Deliverance because its popular.

By definition this thread is gonna make sorry reading for a lot of people. To be disappointed by a problem you need to go in expecting good things and then have your expectations not align with the reality, and one of the main reasons you go in with big expectations is because people keep harping on about how amazing problem x is.

NTBTA is a prime example. It's a fuckin sweet line but it climbs like shit. It's a polished one mover off the deck then a romp to the top. Sky high expectation of that sweet ramp bought firmly back down to earth by shit climbing!

[Will Hunt]

I don't even think of that first move as part of the problem. It's the 6A (or whatever) of the crag that not everybody is allowed to climb.

[AMorris]

Just my thinking, a sorry read indeed, 'Classics I found harder than I wanted them to be'. Anyone slagging NTBTA needs to stick to their shitty eliminate cave they presumably prefer. And don't get me started on the irony of not liking Deliverance because its popular.

Do people really get annoyed with opinions which differ from their own nowdays? Well I never!