[Falling Down]

Oh I've thought of one.  I'd not been climbing that long and was up at Stanage and watched someone effortlessly float up Crescent Arete, NTBTA, Archangel, Doug, White Wand (which I think he might have downclimbed) and Ulysses plus several other routes in the vicinity in about twenty minutes or less.  It was John Allen not long after coming back from Australia or Yosemite. Incredible.

[Ru]

The one "act of impressiveness" I would add to that is where someone does something out of nowhere. As in, they've been trying something, don't look close at all or like it should be well beyond them and then suddenly pull it out of the bag.

Stu Littlefair has always been good at that. I remember doing Cross Therapy with him. I did Tusk, the exit problem pretty quick and then started to try and link from the start. Stu couldn't do Tusk, gave up, worked the start moves of Cross Therapy, then pulled on and did it, doing Tusk for the first time on the link.

[Rocksteady]

Both Megos for me, he joined a group I was in Kalymnos with.

Firing up Los Revolucionarios (9a) as a repeat with scarcely perceptible effort was very impressive. Also I didn't see him do any warm up climbing for it either which seems nuts, I guess he just knew it was below his level.

But I was more impressed by him campussing Ivi, 20m of 7a+ in the Grande Grotte. Not really climbing I guess but a feat of climbing strength/fitness and coordination.

[andy popp]

For me, the climbing that impresses me most and that I love to watch falls under into a few categories: a fight where the climber is digging very deep and leaving nothing in reserve; or a display of exceptional boldness or commitment; or a demonstration of mastery - making the climbing seem effortless.

Absolutely, couldn't agree more Will. I've certainly been witness to plenty of boldness but I can't think of one moment that really stands out.

[SA Chris]

I saw Hong Kong Stuey once walk all the way from the Car Park to Stanage without falling over. We climbed together quite a bit, only saw this happen once. It was impressive.

[BrutusTheBear]

   Great thread, have really enjoyed reading this.

Here's a few.

In the late 90s early 00s I was fortunate enough to be able to visit Font at least twice a year, on one occasion we came across JP Bouvier in Isatis climbing up and down various problems.  At one point he transferred between boulders using full splits to bridge the gap before cruising on up some crimpy horror show or another.  Like a little pixie with other worldly climbing skills just ghosting through.

Around 4 years ago, I spent a lot of time with Mikey Cleverdon on the 'Wave' boulder at Bonehill throughout the winter.  Totally impressive to witness the tenacity, siege mentality and sheer ability to try hard whilst projecting the then unclimbed  low start direct through the beginning of Tsunami.  Great to be there to witness him establishing Nazare one freezing winters night, after a long battle and definitely inspired me to eventually get up Tsunami later that season.

More recently witnessed Alex Waterhouse climbing the FA of Merlin's Beard at Tintagel, followed up with him crushing all of the other established problems on the boulder.  Next level stuff.  (Him and Solly recently did a 100 V-points on the Superbloc in a session... missed that one but outrageous nonetheless).

An old friend on-siting a 7a+ sport route at Cheddar Gorge which was around his red-point level at the time.  As he started up the route he noticed the open top double deckers coming past laden with tourists all pointing at him.  They were coming past at regular intervals and he took it upon himself to turn towards each passing bus and point back in their direction until they were around the corner and out of view.  Each time a bus came past he would stop climbing, turn and point becoming increasingly pumped before the crux.  Suffice to say he scratched through the high crux including a pause mid crux for more pointing, he battled hard to the finish pumped out of his mind stopping for more pointing and completed his hardest on-site to date.  Not a cutting edge ascent but impressive and very amusing all the same.

[cowboyhat]

I was similarly impressed with Steven Jefferey in 2001; having just met him he invited us to stay in his woody a few nights gratis and of course played flat track bully on his own problems. However I know what the level is and he had it. Weird part was the next day I remarked about this to his friends and they all hung him out to dry; Yes he's as strong as Sharma but he is a liar, hadn't done this or that, no evidence of this or that etc. Very odd.

[timlar]

Nov 2012
rankine on trout at bamford onsight, think he’d only climbed e4 at the time.
There was a good story about a sketchy ascent of an e7/8 I think at burbage when neither belayer was that keen on him having another go after a slightly iffy fall first time, needless to say mark did it anyway.

Ondra at orpierre onsighting some 8c

Liam cruising supercool, he’d have done it as a warm up that day but let go. Cruised it second time.

[cowboyhat]

As a weak youth and now weak adult its natural that what sticks out in my mind are feats of strength;

'93 the reebok comp at Birmingham. Fresh off the Hubble this Gaskins guy had been invited. Back stage antics on the warm up wall turned into a full on competition, people doing one armers on slopers etc, Malc and Gaskins both did this problem using one of those textured cowpats placed upside down so it was a sloper with a thumb sprag. I remember trying to hold it and just being confused about what had gone on. Despite having witnessed it close up there seemed no way it could be possible.

Year or so later, first time I went to Paul Higginsons garage with Sam. watching him shutter up and down the campus board doubles, body static in space, arms moving like locomotive pistons. One finger one armers in a sling with weight added. It really sticks in the mind that. Paul was strong but somehow never put together the CV that would get him revered like Malc.

Spanish guy in the aforementioned 'Office' at the foundry. Friend of Miles' and regular 8c climber which was still hard in 1993/4. I found him hanging one armed off the bottom small campus rung, feet tucked giving it death for what seemed like about 30 secs but was probably less. After he'd gone I had a go...  I remember trying to hold it and just being confused about what had gone on. Despite having witnessed it close up there seemed no way it could be possible. That was the first time i saw anyone deadhanging and actually wouldn't see anyone doing it again for many years.

Conversely incidents like these above had a sort of negative impact on me; at fifteen having no knowledge of training progression, how long it might take to acquire these strengths I just thought; I can't do that, I am weak. Thats how it is. Slow learner, not naturally inquisitive, dickhead.

Ones from the modern era; People have mentioned that floatiness, a style; Tyler has that in spades and moves better than anyone. Couple of years ago Jim Pope doing a +62kg pull up. He weighs 58?

[cowboyhat]

Outdoors:

As people have said, Steves is Steve etc but.
2009? From the belay of Mecca I watched him do Hubble on a dampish day; 'just a quick try to see how it feels'. It was a display of control and precision like no other. No slaps, no grunts, no thrutching, no knees; just poise.
Couple of years later? He sets off on Weedkiller trav, crosses that then new 8b of Kristians onsight, up Mecca extension and topped out the crag via the Prow. Not a small climb.

Equally impressive, sixteen year old Jim Pope going up Kaabah on his second try on a warm day. An untroubled execution.

In contrast to those; I was with Ben Tetler to witness most of his hard grit type ascents around 98/9. All followed a similar pattern; I would toprope route usually first go without drama. Ben would toprope route totally sketchy, likely fall off. He would then lead or solo the route in good style. Ben was very adept at getting into the mood and extracting the absolute best from himself, near to his physical limit. I get the impression not many 'hard' grit routes are done like that, near to the climbers limit. Have to say I never doubted him though, I wasn't thinking he shouldn't set off or of talking him out of it. He was never out of his depth like say, Mike Weeks on Harder Faster. I wouldn't have fancied that.

[Bradders]

This is such a good thread, bringing back so many great memories.

I was lucky enough to climb with Micky Page a couple of times in Font and Albarracin a few years ago. Apparently he'd pretty much not climbed for about a year previous, but his off the couch level is just so high it doesn't seem to matter. He absolutely pissed some tricky Font aretes and made an 8A in Albarra look steady away. Not big numbers but it was great to watch. The man has the slinkiest hips I've ever seen.

[Doylo]

'93 the reebok comp at Birmingham. Fresh off the Hubble this Gaskins guy had been invited. Back stage antics on the warm up wall turned into a full on competition, people doing one armers on slopers etc, Malc and Gaskins both did this problem using one of those textured cowpats placed upside down so it was a sloper with a thumb sprag. I remember trying to hold it and just being confused about what had gone on. Despite having witnessed it close up there seemed no way it could be possible.

GASKINS IN ‘KEEPING UP WITH MALC’ SHOCKER.

[danm]

I've been lucky enough to watch/belay a few wads in action in the high grades, but the piece of climbing which will be etched most solidly in my memory is when I belayed a friend winter climbing on the Ben.

A week before, he'd been shut down on the crux pitch of Boomer's Requiem which was well out of condition, and had had an epic making a belay safe enough to retreat from. On the long drive south afterwards he was really stewing over it, and I knew if connies were half reasonable we'd have to go back up for another go.

Less than a week later we were making the 7hr drive up after work, bivving in the north face car park and getting up at 5am to be at the front of the queue. Except we both slept in. Only an hour, but alas, enough. Getting past the CIC hut and as we peer through the drifting cloud we see a pair in front of us in bright Goretex, at the start of the first pitch of Boomer's. Fuuuuck!!!!

We hastily look in the book for a consolation prize at a similar grade, and come up with Compression Crack. We're lured onwards by the enticing photo in the guidebook - a steep crux pitch of fat ice drooling down a corner crack feature. I start up the long first pitch which is relatively amenable, and find a good belay with tat in place, which is handy because the crux above isn't there at all. Mentally I prepare to bail. He arrives, looks up and uses some ungodly language before saying he's going up to take a look.

I say nothing. The trust and respect built up after years of pushing our limits together in the mountains kicks in. He knows what he's doing. He can be bold, but he's not reckless. That's what I told myself anyway. There's just enough ice stuck on the side walls in little blobs for him to hook delicately with his picks and make upward process, but no prospect of any gear. He finds some tat poking out of some ice in the crack and clips it, fails to place a thin bulldog higher up, and then, committed, quests upwards. Blobs of ice detach, but always just after he unweights them. He seems to float, between life and death, in a state of complete calm.

Down below, I'm trying not to puke. I'm watching my best friend doing by far the most outrageous bit of climbing I've ever seen him do. One mistake and death is almost certain. I've also never seen him climb so well, standing on matchstick ice edges, flowing upwards as the consequences darken. Surely this strange equilibrium cannot last? Belaying feels superfluous now. I've got my phone out and checked for enough signal for when the inevitable happens, and then just like that, he's stood on the ledge at the end of the hard climbing, 50m up with nothing between us except the frozen tat which turned out to be an old bootlace. Far enough that I only knew he was crying because he told me about it afterwards.

[AMorris]

'93 the reebok comp at Birmingham. Fresh off the Hubble this Gaskins guy had been invited. Back stage antics on the warm up wall turned into a full on competition, people doing one armers on slopers etc, Malc and Gaskins both did this problem using one of those textured cowpats placed upside down so it was a sloper with a thumb sprag. I remember trying to hold it and just being confused about what had gone on. Despite having witnessed it close up there seemed no way it could be possible.

GASKINS IN ‘KEEPING UP WITH MALC’ SHOCKER.

Can someone check on Dan, make sure he's okay.

[Johnny Brown]

Stu Littlefair has always been good at that. I remember doing Cross Therapy with him. I did Tusk, the exit problem pretty quick and then started to try and link from the start. Stu couldn't do Tusk, gave up, worked the start moves of Cross Therapy, then pulled on and did it, doing Tusk for the first time on the link.

Is it just when he wears a poncho?

[Stu Littlefair]

I don’t have to try hard when I put the poncho on

[cowboyhat]

'93 the reebok comp at Birmingham. Fresh off the Hubble this Gaskins guy had been invited. Back stage antics on the warm up wall turned into a full on competition, people doing one armers on slopers etc, Malc and Gaskins both did this problem using one of those textured cowpats placed upside down so it was a sloper with a thumb sprag. I remember trying to hold it and just being confused about what had gone on. Despite having witnessed it close up there seemed no way it could be possible.

GASKINS IN ‘KEEPING UP WITH MALC’ SHOCKER.

Can someone check on Dan, make sure he's okay.

Uncontentious no contest: Ian Vickers won the comp.

[philo]

Some of the older lads jumping from the top of problems up Bowden Doors, with no crash mats - bonkers

[Paul B]

I don’t have to try hard when I put the poncho on

Just imagine what you could do in one of these Stu:
https://hebtro.co/product-category/action-blankets/?gclid=CjwKCAiAgJWABhArEiwAmNVTB6iR9S_g29I4Q03bX1Xz9iNmq1MfDp3eRBRH4QpV4AfLGikMpj1x8xoCvtsQAvD_BwE

[Dolly]

I wonder why they’re shipped in plain packaging ?

[Yossarian]

I don’t have to try hard when I put the poncho on

Pull. Or pull not. There is no try...

[SA Chris]

If Clint and Mark can rock a poncho, anyone can.

[TobyD]

Possibly the most impressive climbing I've seen was on the Rostrum in 2007, this kid soloed up beside me while I was at the base of the offwidth pitch; we had a chat, as though we were in a cafe or something, and he asked politely if he could carry on, and continued to steadily mosey on upwards, looking as in control as one would walking down a flat pavement.
It was Alex Honnold, at no point did he mention that it was the first time he'd soloed it, or that he'd already soloed astroman that morning, cycled over to the Rostrum and breezed up that too.

[Andy F]

Possibly the most impressive climbing I've seen was on the Rostrum in 2007, this kid soloed up beside me while I was at the base of the offwidth pitch; we had a chat, as though we were in a cafe or something, and he asked politely if he could carry on, and continued to steadily mosey on upwards, looking as in control as one would walking down a flat pavement.
It was Alex Honnold, at no point did he mention that it was the first time he'd soloed it, or that he'd already soloed astroman that morning, cycled over to the Rostrum and breezed up that too.

I think we have a winner.

[mrjonathanr]

Is this your pic Toby?
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/wfeature-solo-honnold