[dunnyg]

A mixture of moving house and illness made this a non-quality week, but still managed to just about get something done.


M
T- 100 strict pressups (10x10)
W- (Doms)
Th-
Fr-
Sa- Leg stretching and a walk for an hour or 2
Su- Tried to go to local crag but it was wet. Went for a walk for an hourish, couple of front levers and a short post fingerboard floor core.
      1 arm hang session 77kg. BM middle rung Still about 4-5 seconds with good form, but can now hold with "bad" form (shoulder not really engaged) for 10 seconds.
Is it bad to hand with shoulder un-engaged? I image it must be. If anyone can point me to resources for good form for one arm hangs that would be good. Not sure it is my finger strength that is letting me down, so I think I need to focus more on that. Will keep up with the 1 arm hangs though too I think as doing them engaged must be making my shoulders work!

[Duma]

M - 1.5 hrs at TCA, plus cycling to and from. They'd reset most of the 6A+ to 6C circuit so did those, too fucked from previous days for any more. Should have rested, but impending lockdown so thought I should make the most of last chance.
T - core - planks, v sits.
W -  5k run, muddy, cold, hilly.
T - Assisted one armers, down to -5kg left arm, -6 right. Not great numbers but was feeling rinsed.
F -2 hrs walking with daughter in the mud
S - Hour cycling around Bristol, crimpd floor core.
S - Avon on The Prince, decent session, linked from the rockover to the arete (direct past the second bolt) several times, and did the clip ok, but frustratingly failed to stick the rockover even once. Closest go was early on, and got worse on the move through the session. Annoying as skin doesn't last many goes on this so went through a tip before getting a feel for the move.

71kg.

[spidermonkey09]

Is it bad to hand with shoulder un-engaged? I image it must be. If anyone can point me to resources for good form for one arm hangs that would be good. Not sure it is my finger strength that is letting me down, so I think I need to focus more on that. Will keep up with the 1 arm hangs though too I think as doing them engaged must be making my shoulders work!

Presumably you are hanging on the big central slot? I do these after max hangs; a mate calls them 'stability hangs'. I really rate them, they definitely get your shoulders in good shape. I do 10 second hang, 50 seconds off, repeat on other arm - 5 times on each arm, so the whole thing takes ten minutes. When I first started doing them were the living end but now they feel quite cruisey. To start with I used a pulley to take a bit of weight off (reckon 5kg would do you if I'm reading your post right).

Think the key is that these are entirely about form so if you aren't engaging your scapula, use a pulley. I don't think hanging with an unengaged shoulder is a good plan. I sometimes do some scap shrugs to get myself going beforehand and remind myself what it feels like to hang with good form. Are you hanging front on or side on to the fingerboard? If the former do you find you are rotating in the hang?

ps where have you moved to?

[nai]

M - Roche. I know, stone me.
Warmed up playing on the moves on Faith and Failthless Left Hands. Did Faithless first attempt from the start, found an extra hold that the FA didn't use and makes it a lot easier.

News of likely shutdown started to come through which provided motivation to finish off some of the ongoing business

Eventually managed to do the Faith poxy poke move more than once in a session and then managed it from the start to eventually managed this problem. Must have tried it on at least six occassions and once spent pretty much a whole session just trying the poxy poke.

Quick play on Faithless LH which was all ok bar a nervy snatchy hand match with a heel on giving visions of inverting, so had to leave that one for another time.

Moved to Justice and managed to find a way to kill the swing when releasing the toe hook. Took a few attempts to then snatch the big, awkward hold and a couple more to chuck for the top but managed it just as the saloon was shutting.

T - press day - shoulder press, pressups, lateral raises, dips, dunbell fly. THis aggrevated my shoulder which kind of helps diagnose the problem.
Masage and decent stretch

W - Fingers, M&S legs, hips & shoulders

Th - headed to ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ after school had finished. ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ busy so continued to ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ to try ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛. Did the ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ in 2015.  Had worked out all the moves except for the ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛. Skin was suffering on the ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ and suggested it might be time to leave, head agreed but ego wasn't having it. Had another attempt and managed the sequence from
⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ to the ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛. Caught the wrong final hold at the end of the ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ sequence but was happy with that for the day. Left the easier  ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ for another day and headed home


F -
a few light rehab push weights
20 mins LI Aero on board

S -
family walk
fingers - 10s crimps including some experimentation

S - massage, push rehab weights, big shoulder stretch. lower body stretch. IYTs

[csl]

A good first week of lockdown training, Christmas weight has just dropped off which is nice.

January Goals
- Climb a 7B on one of the boulders in Hackney, my only local "outdoor" climbing - not visited yet
- 10 mobility sessions. 4/10 so far
- Lose 2kg of Christmas weight
- Try hard on the board and stick to my training plan - done so far

Monday 4th
2 arm Max Hangs on 20mm edge - 5x10 second hangs at 98kg total weight.
Limit Moves on board. Think I got the correct intensity as could just about do each move after 5 or so attempts

Tuesday 5th
Nothing

Wednesday 6th
Isometric hangs on pullup bar for time. 3 reps of 40 seconds at 120º, tried for 3 reps of 40 seconds @ 90º but failed around 35 seconds each time.
Rings workout - 3x8 pressups, 3x8 rows, 10kg bicep curls

Hip flexibility

Thursday 7th
Wooden holds arrived! Put them on the board and messed around for a bit.

Friday 8th
1 Arm Max Hangs on 20mm edge - 5 x 10 seconds at 66kg total weight. Felt good on this!
Limit Bouldering. Made up and worked on a couple of projects. Didn't get very close to either of them which means they are probably about hard enough.

Hip Flexibility

Saturday 9th
A bunch more resin holds arrived, added them on the board and made up a few more problems.
AnCap session

Sunday 10th
Hip Flexibility

[dunnyg]

Thanks spidermonkey.
Yes, I am hanging from the BM central slot. I usually start slightly side on but I am relatively stable for about 5 seconds. If I don't let go when my form goes, my arm goes straight, shoulder can't really engage and I slowly rotate.

I don't really have a pulley set up at the moment, and previously haven't had much success with them due to lack of proper pulley. It sounds like it might be worth sourcing one.
It sounds like for max hangs I should be using fewer fingers and sticking with 2 arms, but not really sure! I am trying to do my finger boarding without adding/removing weights, to reduce the crap I already stash in the living room...

Moved to Burley in Wharfedale.

[tomtom]

Dunny- if it’s only 5 or so kg needs taking off just use a theraband or two attached to the BM (or frame it’s attached to) and hold it in the other hand or (better) in a foot loop. I used a travel scales to calibrate (ha!) mine and each one took off 3-5kg. I’ve now got a pulley rig which gives me more control - but the bands worked ok.

[RobK]

M - 80 press ups, 80 pull ups. Much harder than it sounded on paper.

T - One arm max hangs. L@-19kg, R@-17kg again. Long AnCap boulders on the board. Feeling OK on these, failed on the last move of last rep! Time for a new circuit soon.

W - Rest.

T - Max hangs, same as Tuesday. Surprised/disappointed to have seen no progress with these yet. If anything I'm going backwards. Then limit bouldering on the board followed by bar core.

F - AM, AeroCap 8 x 1.20 on/off on the board. PM, AnCap boulder triples mainly using 6C-7A problems (grades pretty arbitrary). Went OK apart from one problem I had graded 6C+/7A which felt the living end. Could barely do more than one move in a row. Must have been going well the day I set that. Will have to go back to it not in the middle of a power endurance session to see if it is actually that hard. Finished with some offset pull ups.

S - Rest.

S - 30 minute run, would have been longer but right calf not totally happy.

[dunnyg]

Sounds like a great idea tomtom, thanks!

[Will Hunt]

Monday - risked a trip to the Hub to do the comp.

Thursday - trip to a local crag to have a crack at an unrecorded/unclimbed thing I spotted a while ago. Discovered the sequence and it's pretty cool. Very psyched for it. Went through a tip moderately badly so stopped play as the top was too wet and grimey to finish up anyway.

Saturday - night time trip to the local crag to clear the pine needles and gunge from the top of the boulder. Thrashed around the woods trying to find the block again and after about 30 mins I got there. Spooky as anything in the woods. Torchlight catching the glint of eyes watching you in the gloom. Birds suddenly taking off from trees as you walk past. Gripper.
Dropped my stuff at the top of the boulder and set the rope up. Took my jacket off and put it on the ground. Thought about packing it away but figured the wind wasn't strong enough to blow it away. Clipped on the brushes and got on the rope sweeping up the top slab. Hard to tell where mud ended and rock began at times - really old impacted earth. Lowered down away from the top and got to work on the rest of the top bit. A while later I lowered to the bottom and spent time in the little cave at the bottom making sure it was all as clear as possible. Went to the top again and my fucking coat is gone. So I start scanning around the trees with the torch to see if it's blown away. Can't see it anywhere. Damn. So I decide  I'll have a wider search once I've packed up. Coil the rope, put brushes back in their carrier bag. Open the rucksack to put the brushes back. The coat is in the fucking bag.
I'm certain I didn't pack it away. I distinctly remember thinking that it would be fine on the ground.
Ran for my life.


Most days I walked a few miles with the kids.

[shark]

11.9-10 Average 163.2 (up 0.6lbs)

M. Home FB session then tor. Psyched for a good session. Wet and cold. Holds especially the pinch felt greasy. Moves felt a fraction harder. Tried from the start a few times and struggled using the pinch. Don’t know if it was the cold and damp but using it seemed to affect/hurt the burn scar tissue on top of middle finger. Frustrating and disappointing session after the recent progress.

T. Lunch.  Lunch: 5 sets of 4 Fast pull ups with +10lbs. Chest to bar 16x. PB helped by getting wound up on ukc
Eve Ergo hangs Max hangs. Down on last Wednesday’s scores. Had a good run though but time to switch regimes I think

W.

T.  AM Blue skies. Home FB warm up. PM Burbage to try Blind Date. Cloudy. Snowy and rather beautiful. Great conditions. Many attempts going for or tickling first slot. It was only towards the end that I seemed to get the movement/ hip position right. Disappointed not to do better given boncon.
Eve. Pull-ups with +30kg. 3 sets of recruitment pulls. First set on opposing gastons, second set on low undercuts, third set on the ergo edge

F.

S.

S. PM Had given myself 2 rest days to have a good go at BD. FB warm up. Speed pulls on 20mm edge have definitely improved. Out to Burb to find it had crapped out. Retreated to shed. Warm up and did gastons sequence twice. 4 attempts at unclimbed ancap sequence. Got a high point on first attempt


Extraordinary week. Boris’s announcement on Monday already seems an age ago. Motivation and plans fucked up. Sad there is such a split between climbers on the matter of travelling short distances to climb. Arguing about it on ukc was a psyche destroying exercise. Going to regroup myself this week.

Weight gain understandable but disappointing. Will require a change of attitude and discipline to start reversing the last 16 weeks of weight gain. It’s not going to happen with magical thinking. Think my resolve is hardening. Let’s see.

No drinking this year so far.

[moose]

I'm certain I didn't pack it away. I distinctly remember thinking that it would be fine on the ground.
Ran for my life.

Most days I walked a few miles with the kids.

I am now envisaging a Blair Witch Project style first ascent video. Imagine an Ondra blog but with his acolytes periodically being found, impaled by trees, strangled by slack-lines, bolted onto woodies.

[Bradders]

'stability hangs'

I know them as scapular holds. Been doing them as part of my warm up for fingerboarding for the last 6 months or so. I do them on the BM1k jug or a pull up bar; it's more about targeting the scapular than your fingers really so on a big hold is best so you're not limited by fingers (e.g. I can't one arm hang many holds on a fingerboard but for my 5s max on these I can add a fair bit of weight...).

Like SM starting off they felt nails and I had to do them with theraband assistance.

As far as I've been told, form wise, should be doing them straight armed. Goal is to make sure your scapular is depressed and engaged, with a good fist size gap between your shoulder and your ear. 

[spidermonkey09]

Thanks spidermonkey.
Yes, I am hanging from the BM central slot. I usually start slightly side on but I am relatively stable for about 5 seconds. If I don't let go when my form goes, my arm goes straight, shoulder can't really engage and I slowly rotate.

I don't really have a pulley set up at the moment, and previously haven't had much success with them due to lack of proper pulley. It sounds like it might be worth sourcing one.
It sounds like for max hangs I should be using fewer fingers and sticking with 2 arms, but not really sure! I am trying to do my finger boarding without adding/removing weights, to reduce the crap I already stash in the living room...

Moved to Burley in Wharfedale.

The rule of thumb I went with was 2 arm max hangs until you are hanging +50% bodyweight, so you could use that as a rough metric. What edge are you using for the two arm max hangs?

I don't quite understand your description of being side on and rotating: I think you would only rotate if you start front on?  I always try and do the stability hangs front on (eg looking straight through the doorway) as it seems to me like it replicates the position you are most likely to be in climbing, both in terms of shoulder and fingers. I stay front on for max hangs too. Others see this differently, from memory I think teestub does his 1 arm max hangs side on( facing the Doorframe).

If you are doing them front on, a good trick to stop the rotation is to lightly push the door frame with your index finger as you start to rotate, so you push yourself back toward the starting position.

I think by the sounds of it your shoulders are the limiting factor, so would def go front on for now at least. As TT says a theraband would work just as well as a pulley as you don't need much assistance. Hope that makes some sort of sense?

[Wood FT]

No drinking this year so far.

Good effort.

[tomtom]

Xmas weight slowly coming off... about a kg to go.... Reduction of cheese and meat intake has helped!

Mon: rest

Tues: 1 arm Pull Up day. Still taking it easy worrying about Golfers Elbow. 11 reps down to -12kg

Weds: Elbow felt OK. Board session - really good. Climbing well - best session on the woody for 4-5 months...

Thurs: Fingerboard - did 2 sets of 3 x 6 x 7 secs on the slopers. Good work out - don;t do much sloper stuff. Then tried back two. Realised why I don’t do back two as my dupytrens (both hands) immediately started complaining... lets leave that one eh...

Fri: Board day. Quick 50 min session: Excellent again...

Sat: Assisted 1 arm lock offs (120 deg) - got down to 5 reps at 2kg assist.

Sun: rest. Golfers elbow hurting a bit (eased now)...

Trying to manage my Golfers whilst still doing some 1 arm stuff. I really like the one arm work - it works my shoulder and triceps/pecs like no other training I do - I like it. BUT I need to find a way of not aggravating the GE. From this week it seems (bizarrely) that the 1 arm PU with a fair bit of weight off (-12kg) aggravates less than 1 arm hangs/locks (Sat)... I;’d have thought the moving/dynamic nature of the PU would aggravate it more. Views/Opinions welcome.... Climbing on the board does not seem to really stress it (I can feel it - but it feels worked rather than aggravated if that makes sense)

I also need some advice. My previous lockdown routine was 6 days alternating 1arm / board stuff then a rest day. But if the 1 arm stuff is out (or has to be much reduced due to the GE) then what can I replace it with. The board works the fingers pretty hard - so I don’t want to do small holds on the Beastmaker - hence sloper work. Possibly middle two work - and get the ring finger stronger? Any thoughts (I f*cking hate core stuff....)

Anyway - great week on the board..  who’d have thought that training makes you better at training.... :D

[teestub]

Any thoughts (I f*cking hate core stuff....)

And there you have your answer!

[Will Hunt]

Tom, I want you to say hello to my little friend.

[tomtom]

Any thoughts (I f*cking hate core stuff....)

And there you have your answer!

That’s why I like the board. Core, arms, fingers, shoulders all worked out in one

If thats an Ab Ripper video I’ll punter you Will :D

I quite like Yoga though.... apart from the obsession with downward dogs that some sessions/lessons seem to have - my hamstrings are unfixably short and they make me feel sick after a while

[tomtom]

Tom, I want you to say hello to my little friend.

NSFW  :

Ah. That’s better. Seriously though - I really don’t want to do any core stuff - its just really fucking dull and makes me feel physically sick when I try hard. I don’t get that from trying hard on other training - and I don’t like feeling sick!

Edit - an Ab Wheel piqued my interest - and improvised with some weights (rolling them) and realised this was really going to fuck my back in unless I worked a lot on my form.

Edit 2: I’ve got a TRX think (Cheap decathlon clone) but believe it or not - there is no-where in the house I can put it up. No doors opening the right way into open spaces. No room where the board is... our house is packed full of shit...

[teestub]

[
I quite like Yoga though.... apart from the obsession with downward dogs that some sessions/lessons seem to have - my hamstrings are unfixably short

🤔 did you have them replaced with shorter ones at some point? Plenty of info out there about sorting this. I couldn’t touch my toes before lockdown 1 now I can.

I’d be tempted to recommend alternating board and stretching days if you don’t want to do any core stuff. You’ll fresher on the board and prob get more out of the sessions.

What about leg work, one leg squats, split squats etc?

[tomtom]

🤔 did you have them replaced with shorter ones at some point? Plenty of info out there about sorting this. I couldn’t touch my toes before lockdown 1 now I can.

From 14-18 I probably cycled 100-200 miles a week, and did next to no running. For the next 4-5 years I did no exercise whatsoever really :D

My hammys are really really tight. Even when warmed up I can’t get closer than 15cm from my toes... I tried doing some exercises for stretching them out a few years back and it didnt really go anywhere...

[Coops_13]

M: Push. Bench press BW X4 *5sets. Incline press, shoulder press, lateral and front raise. 10 mins bike

T: Clear Creek Canyon. Went to try Into the Light V7, mega-classic long traversey boulder. Crimpy and anti-style, 18 moves to the jugs (then several more to top). Struggled to find beta that worked then surprised myself by sending second go from the bottom. Psyched. Finished by doing a V5ish cop-out version for a bit more training.


W: Legs. High reps as directed by physio. Leg press, calf raise, hamstring curl, knee extensions X15 *2sets. 10 mins incline walk

T: Clear Creek Canyon. Started at Aqua Huck boulder to try Aqua Huck Direct which was given V8 so thought it would be a nice bridge into starting to try harder boulders (9 and up) but sent it quickly and turned out to be disappointingly easy - soft V7 at most… Moved onto Dark Waters cave, home to boulders and link-ups up to V13. Pulled on Fluid Mechanics V9/10 but wasn't feeling one of the moves so turned my attention to what I think was Deep Sea Angler (V7 more like V6). One hard move off undercuts followed by a few slightly easier moves to a jug finish. Good fun and good first acquaintance with the cave.


S: Clear Creek Canyon. Solo mission before the snow. Vanilla Ice boulder to start. Kinda tricky to work out the lines but think I ended up doing Vanilla Ice V6 and Word to your Mother V7. There's a V8 I thought I did left to go back for. Cool but a bit disconcerting bouldering on the ice over a river. Then went to Ice Princess V5 which had just enough ice underneath it to do, felt very cool.


S: Legs. Leg press, calf raise, hamstring curl, knee extensions X15 *2sets. Leg exercises. 10 mins bike. 3 mile walk in snowy flatirons with pup. Density pickups up to 45lb

Psyched to be getting lots of outdoor sessions in, off to Moab for a long weekend which will be cool. Bruised knuckles very slowly improving, guess it's the toss-up between not climbing and resting them or keeping climbing but delaying healing. Also doing a mini-cut before Moab, staying off beer is the hardest part

Also, someone shout if seeing lots of outdoor vids is annoying and I can NSFW them if necessary

[Carl]

STG - 2-3 7B+ in Q1 and some progress on a 7C. If weather cooperates. Stick to fingerboarding if it doesn't.
MTG - get on a rope for some hardish things this year
LTG - figure out an LTG


M - Felt pretty battered after last week. Lockdown announced, so dug out the training setup again. 3x15 pushups, 3x10 pullups, pistol squats up to +6kg.

Tu - Only scapular wall slides

W - Finally have access to reasonable weights for fingerboarding, so did a max hang test. Managed +17.5 kg at about 77 kg BW on BM1k 18 mm edge. Good to finally have a number for this, though now not sure how that compares to 7Bish. Oh well, I'll just try and make the number bigger!
Then did a set of hangs at about 90% after the test.

Th - More max hangs, increased weight to +11.5 kg. Probably too soon after the last really, but felt pretty well rested.

F - 4x20 pushups. Fitness coming back quickly on these.

Sa - Morning visit to Houndkirk Tor to look at Made in Sheffield again. Could actually do some of the moves this time which was better than last visit, although the ice on the last few holds ensured only some of the moves were possible. Some nice climbing though.

Su - Had an optimistic look at Burbage South in the evening for Electrical Storm, but every square millimetre of rock was sodden. Consolation fingerboard session afterwards, max hangs at +12 kg ish.

[gollum]

Why is the thread called Dec 4th 2020 to 10th Dec 2020? Is it a time travelling thread to give BoJo the chance to make decisions with hindsight?

Not sure I’m up for reliving any of 2020, to be honest.

M - Depot purples, back, treadmill walk, abs, yoga
T - Walk, shoulders, abs, yoga, Max Hangs
W - Triceps, abs, yoga, walk, pinches and monos
T - Walk/jog, abs/core, Max hangs, yoga
F - Biceps, abs, walk, yoga, pinches and monos
S - Yoga, walk, abs
S - Abs, yoga, walk

Really not sure what this week will bring in terms of freedom from restrictions, so load heavy stuff at start of week, including doing chest session at end of last week’s plan. If can get onto small muscle groups before lockdown, I’ll be able to complete this recruitment based phase of weights and training.

M - Go to Depot in the morning. Not sure what to expect as think I’ve taken all the easy pickings in the purples and yellows already. Do manage another three purple ticks though, so chuffed with that. Fall off top move of another and manage to catch my knee under my chin and am visited by the tweetie birds and stars, so pretty much call it a day apart from a quick go on the circuits.
Weights on the way home and working my back. Deadlifts to start but tired from the morning’s efforts so call it at an easy 140. Rack pulls toe 3s working up to 150 which feel good and I’ve not done in a while. On to OAP, without assistance on right and down to 2.5k on the left. To help with these, I then do some 90° lock offs for 5 seconds on each arm for 3 sets.  On to Machine pull downs for 5x3 with both arms and then single arm and lock work for 3x3. Finish back work with 3x12 dumbbell shrugs. Do a 30 minute treadmill walk before leaving, managing to very slowly run for a few minutes without discomfort.
Yoga for flexibility in the evening and a steady 50 with the abs roller. First time in weeks that I’ve been able to use massage gun on calf(and rest of legs) so that’s progress.

T - Back in lockdown and needing to get creative. Start of walking my normal 5k run route as being conservative with leg and it eats up more of the day.
Shoulder exercises today, using home kit. Start with 3x8 strict one arm presses with a kettlebell. Next is 3x8 stability presses. Superset 3x8 alternating front raises and 3x5 single arm lateral raises with a kettlebell. Front rows at a slow pace with a kettlebell for 3x8, an exercise I rarely do due to the potential for injury but keeping it slow and low mitigates the risk. 3x6 bilateral dumbbell lateral raises next, then dumbbell front raises for 3x8. For rear delts do 3x8 reverse flys. Finish with 3x8 scapular raises.
80 slow paused reps on the abs roller and 3 minute plank for core, which feels tough, but I haven’t done it for a while.
Today’s yoga session is hamstring based, which feels just what I need.
Do some Max Hangs on home set up with 4K assist to start and then down to 2k, although think I need to improve pulley system to reduce the friction.
Happy with what can be done at home after first day of lockdown.

W - Triceps training in the morning. Make a start with 4x6 single arm overhead extensions. Follow this with single arm Tate presses for 3x6. Skull crushers with a single dumbbell for 3x8 next. Very. Slow bench dips for 3x8, with long pauses at bottom and just below top of each rep get a good burn in the arms going. Bodyweight skull crushers for 3x6. A nice session that did the job.
For core start with plank for 4 minutes, by the end of which I am properly battling the full body shake. Plan to keep at it to see if I can get to 5 minutes and beyond (if memory serves 6:45 was my best). After a decent rest I do some lever raises for 3x5, which are definitely improving, and some twists for my obliques. Finish with 50 steady reps with the abs roller, which funnily enough feel a bit harder than normal.
Did my 5k run route again as a walk.
Do some work with pinches and monos, akin to max hangs. On pinches do 6x5 seconds with increasing weight up to 20k on each hand on a square pinch and then 15k for each on flared pinch. For monos do 3x5s on each finger with a 32k weight, all held between first and second joint, obviously easier on some than others. Finish with a 5 second hold with 24k with middle finger in a pocket up to first joint.
Another productive day of stuff in lockdown.

T - Do my usual 5k route as a walk, but also manage to jog a substantial part of it, hopefully building up distance so can safely run it all. Happy with progress.
Back on the plank trail and battle to 4:20 to start off abs/core work. Follow this with some hollow bodies and side planks. Move on to L sits for 3x20 seconds and levers with one leg tucked for 3x15 seconds. Finish off with 4x25 very slow abs roller reps.
Max hangs for 10x5 seconds starting with 4K support and reducing to 2k, with a much smoother pulley system in place.
Yoga session is hips, quads and hamstrings based.

F - Bicep training. Start with single arm strict standing curls for 3x8 with a 15. Next is 3x10 goblet curls which are ultra slow to keep the tension up. Concentration curls for 3x5 next, followed by 3x8 single arm hammer curls with a kettlebell. 3x10 alternating standing curls and finish with 3x8 Zottman curls.
Manage a slight increase in plank time and then do a steady 60 paused reps with the abs roller.
5k walk of usual route as the snow is starting to fall.
Today’s yoga worked on hip flexors and felt like a really good session.
Pinches and monos again. With square pinch am able to do 6x5 seconds with 20k straight off but with the flared block I need to work up to 15k although am able to do last 3 sets with it out of the six. Again do the mono exercises for 3 sets of 5 seconds on each finger with 32k. On the first joint stuff just do a single set on each finger with 24k on middle finger and 16k on all the rest, may play about to see what the appropriate weight should be for each finger. Feels like a fairly steady finger session as very different than doing hangs.

S - Yoga in the morning which is the online stuff from Local Authority gym. Today’s is focused on shoulders and back but with a bit of a mix. Certainly becoming a bit more flexible in certain positions.
Do five minutes jogging near the drive and happy that calf doesn’t hurt so will run next week again. Standard 5k walk in the snow.
Manage to do 3x12 abs roller reps off my feet, which astounds me given how hard I found it to do a single rep a few months ago. Slow progress is still progress.

S - Easy day today. 50 easy abs roller reps and Yoga for abs, followed by a 5k walk.

As I predicted a need to get creative. Happy that finished my ‘heavy’ cycle, seeming to have squeezed 6 weeks into about 4 and a half somehow. Not been climbing outside since Lockdown as still trying to decide if it’s legit, and this week I’ve come down on the side of it’s not for me, but that could change as things develop. I do think Buckstone, West Vale, Lindley Moor, West Nab and possibly Woodhouse all would fit the local criteria, but also think that a very small increased risk of incident or accident exists, so worth avoiding for now. I think this becomes a very personal choice and one I can see all sides of and don’t begrudge any personal choice, aligning decisions to Fiend’s list seems to strike a good balance.
Shit not having a board but hope I can keep my recent improvement going of at least not get fat and crap again. Do feel motivated, so fingers crossed.