[SA Chris]

He's cool like dat, cool like dat

[andy moles]

Sad because you are a supportive bf? Or sad because she's a dark horse operator under the radarand hasn't been mentioned? Because both of those are pretty cool nowadays. You may need to recalibrate your coolometer Andy Moles.

Sad was the wrong word maybe, more that slight cringe of blowing someone else's trumpet when they wouldn't, y'know?

But while I'm at it, another woman who's climbed E7s is Harriet Ridley - Katie's Delight and Manhattan Highrise, possibly others.

[andy_e]

Holy shit, I'd lost touch with Harriet after I moved away from Durham and canned my FB/insta account. Bon effort!

[moose]

And Dan near the bottom of ‘persons I’d want to belay ‘ list. Well back then anyway. He gave me an elbow to the temple falling off Unfamiliar and I could only eat soup for a week.

I had similar (but very probably less visceral) feelings when belaying Jacob Cook.  He could make belaying a safe sport climb feel like complicity with a "suicide by chop route".  If he got tired, he'd skip bolts, just keep trucking, and routinely approach the belay with nothing clipped above half-way.  In return for picking him up and ferrying him to the crag, I always just wanted a day of tedious belays in return for his support working my own project, instead I'd spend half the day stressed and mentally rehearsing scenarios of alerting the air ambulance and giving bad news to parents!

[remus]

Thanks Andy, good knowledge. I spotted on Harriet's insta feed that she did Mussel Beach this year so she's a new addition for the sport list too.

[dunnyg]

I have fond memories of Jacob taking a big whipper on the bulge or whatever it is called at Kilnsey. Inspiring.

[Andy F]

Watching Jacob climb Urgent Action I'm pretty sure the last bolt he clipped was well below where it meets the Thumb 

[remus]

Has Pete Robins done any E9s? Feel like he's got the chops but can't think of anything off the top of my head.

[petejh]

He’s said in the past that he hasn’t, but I think that might be something to do with believing that rp’ing trad climbs with gear pre-placed isn’t properly climbing E9..
Obviously could. Flashed E8.

[submaximal gains]

I thought Neil Dyer must have done an E9, but I can't find any write up of him doing one.

He has climbed E8 in Squamish https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/08/tainted_love_-_new_squamish_e813d_corner_by_hazel_findlay-71227

He's soloed 8a on slate https://snowdoniamountainguides.com/untouchables-neil-dyer-solo/

He's on the sport list for doing Megalopia ... does anyone recall him doing an e9?

[Duma]

Maybe one of the ones at Dyer's Lookout?


sorry.

[Doylo]

Has Pete Robins done any E9s? Feel like he's got the chops but can't think of anything off the top of my head.

He did Spinal Crack in Ogwen but downgraded it. Wouldn’t be surprised if it was E9.

Ding Dong Dyer hasn’t. The route above is called Spinal Crack cos Dyer broke his back trying for the FA.

[andy moles]

Various N Irish folk have done Divided Years.

Ricky Bell, Eddie Barbour, John McCune, Rory Cummings. Maybe others.

Ricky's also done that E9 slab at Fair Head, Long Runs the Fox, and I think Caff implied that Rathlin Effect should be E9 too.

[SA Chris]

Ding Dong Dyer hasn’t. The route above is called Spinal Crack cos Dyer broke his back trying for the FA.

Which surely speaks of a ) the difficulty and b) the danger. Although you can break your back falling off a Diff.

[submaximal gains]

Ricky Bell's blog post on Long Run's the Fox here http://rickybel-fast.blogspot.com/2015/06/through-green-door-across-rubicon-and.html
Video here

Thoughts on Divided years here https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/divided_years_4th_ascent_-_ricky_bell-44788
Video of Jame's McHaffie's and Ryan Pasquill's GU attempts here
note the 5:10 knee pad.

[abarro81]

Pretty sure Eddie told me he thought E8 when he did it, but I might be misremembering... can find out if it's useful.

[SA Chris]

Had to dry fingers about 4 times watching that slab.

[andy moles]

Pretty sure Eddie told me he thought E8 when he did it, but I might be misremembering... can find out if it's useful.

I think a few people have said maybe E8 or split grade, but I noticed it was on the list for others already.

[submaximal gains]

Si Moore has also done divided years

[remus]

Thanks for the knowledge everyone. I've left Divided years in at E9 for the moment. I've bumped Captain Invincible up to E9, Randall said 8b/+ when he did it, and with skanky pegs and RPs E8 would seem pretty tight. I've put Spinal Crack in at E9 for the mo (based on Doylo's opinion) which means we have 2 new entrants on the list (Geldard for the FA and Robins for the second ascent).

Pretty sure Eddie told me he thought E8 when he did it, but I might be misremembering... can find out if it's useful.

I'd be interested to hear his thoughts on the grade.

[andy moles]

Pretty sure Eddie told me he thought E8 when he did it, but I might be misremembering... can find out if it's useful.

I'd be interested to hear his thoughts on the grade.
[/quote]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/06/eddie_barbour_climbs_divided_years_e89_6c-47707
He said at the time split grade, whether that changed I don't know.

[ali k]

Remus - Matt Helliker’s still missing off the list for Big Issue.

[remus]

Remus - Matt Helliker’s still missing off the list for Big Issue.

Good spot, I've added him in.

[Doylo]

Thanks for the knowledge everyone. I've left Divided years in at E9 for the moment. I've bumped Captain Invincible up to E9, Randall said 8b/+ when he did it, and with skanky pegs and RPs E8 would seem pretty tight. I've put Spinal Crack in at E9 for the mo (based on Doylo's opinion) which means we have 2 new entrants on the list (Geldard for the FA and Robins for the second ascent).

Pretty sure Eddie told me he thought E8 when he did it, but I might be misremembering... can find out if it's useful.

I'd be interested to hear his thoughts on the grade.

Not my opinion but there’s a rumour he downgraded it cos it was Jack Geldard’s route . 

[submaximal gains]

Just been going through hard crack climbs that would get at least E9 to see if anyone's been missed.

Recovery Drink, 8c+ trad ?E10, Pete Whittaker in 2019 https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/08/third_ascent_of_recovery_drink_by_pete_whittaker-72032

Pura Pura, 8c+ trad ?E9/10, Tom Randall in 2014, https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/the-pura-pura-project/
 

Cobra Crack, 5.14b ?E9/10, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker

I don't know whether you want to add Tom to the hard sport list for either of those ascents

Would you consider starting a hard trad ascents list - ascents of trad routes 8c+ or harder? I'd be happy to populate it.