[kingholmesy]

Ghost Train, E7 Stennis Ford, for Lucy Creamer too.
 

Come on....

 

[kingholmesy]

Great flake is Font 6B at most.

Bollocks.  I can flash 6Bs til the cows come home but failed to get up this ground-up.

After falling off from the crux 3 or 4 times I decided to save my ankles for the rest of my weekend visit to Yorkshire - it seemed a shame to risk smashing myself up on the first thing I tried after driving all the way from Cornwall.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Ghost Train, E7 Stennis Ford, for Lucy Creamer too.
 

Come on....

 

Is it my role to dispute the grade given?

As I recall, it was an on-sight effort. I'd doubted the grade, but accept your position that inclusion on the list is subject to the UKB assessment of the grade..

As a more general point, rather than looking at opportunities to put things down, I think it's really worth considering the difference in how the decision is made between trying something on-sight, and after any sort of prep or inspection to find out at what end of the grade a particular route is. This isn't just about how much harder it is.

If the route has been downgraded, and so doesn't warrant being included for that reason, then you could just say that.

[kingholmesy]

Fair point Dave.

Whether or not a route might subsequently be downgraded, the person who stood underneath it on any given day and decided to go for the onsight did so based what they believed to be the grade.

Onsight attempts at E7s are still comparatively rare and in any event I certainly wasn’t meaning to disparage anyone.

Despite this, inclusion on the list should presumably be based on the now accepted grade?

[kingholmesy]

Great flake is Font 6B at most.

Bollocks.  I can flash 6Bs til the cows come home but failed to get up this ground-up.

After reading this back I think I sound like a bit of a twat. I still think Great Flake is harder than 6B though.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Nice post from you, above.

Your other post about GF didn't seem particularly unreasonable.

Off topic-ish..

Longer boulder problems with several sections, will typically be given an overall grade. Maybe because of the length of GF, people have focused on the crux in isolation - as highlighted by Will above. Just thinking about why.

It's probably more relevant to consider how it's climbed, with pads or not.

[Fultonius]

Julian Lines has done at least one. I'm trying to work out if Iain Small has, but he's maybe only up to E8.

Did Malc not do one at some point?

[gme]

Julian Lines has done at least one. I'm trying to work out if Iain Small has, but he's maybe only up to E8.

Did Malc not do one at some point?

Think Transcendence is his hardest and graded E8 although i think its thought of as stiff for E8 but more due to actual hard climbing than danger.

[SA Chris]

I was thinking maybe a few other locals here too, but I think most have done E8.

Tim Rankin gave Perfect Vacuum E8/9, fresh can just open, split grades!

[kingholmesy]

Longer boulder problems with several sections, will typically be given an overall grade. Maybe because of the length of GF, people have focused on the crux in isolation - as highlighted by Will above. Just thinking about why.

It's probably more relevant to consider how it's climbed, with pads or not.

Yes I agree. Even leaving aside the added fear of the unknown when trying something ground-up, for a long problem with the crux near the top it must be harder to figure it out if you arrive there slightly tired each time, rather than trying the crux on a rope first.

[Steve Crowe]

Dan discusses the difficulties of grading Transcendence at Back Bowden Doors over on UKC, it’s comprehensive and entertaining read.


https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896

[Wil]

How had I missed that? Great writing.

[andy_e]

I was thinking maybe a few other locals here too, but I think most have done E8.

Tim Rankin gave Perfect Vacuum E8/9, fresh can just open, split grades!

Gordon Lennox?

[SA Chris]

I thought Gordy too, but can't find anything, that horse is too damn dark!

[andy_e]

Sure I've seen a picture of him on an E9 somewhere. I thought maybe in Red Wall Quarry but there appear not to be any E9s there...

[SA Chris]

He's done all the hard routes up there up to 8c, but they are most definitely sport.

[andy_e]

I've consulted Lyons

[andy_e]

The fount of local knowledge says Gordon Lennox has done New Statesman, and probably more, but hasn't told anyone.

[tomtom]

Has Will Atkinson done E9 before he moved to Oz? Didnt he do that hard thing at Widdop?

[andy_e]

Good point, he's done a fair few E9s I think

EDIT: are they really E9 if you can reach the top of the crag with your feet on the ground still?!

EDIT EDIT: It appears he did Reservoir Dogs, which gets E8. Also I thought New Statesman was E9?! Oh well. Scratch those last two off the list.

[ali k]

Has Will Atkinson done E9 before he moved to Oz? Didnt he do that hard thing at Widdop?

Reservoir Dogs? E8 I think. Jordan might be able to confirm.

[cheque]

Also I thought New Statesman was E9

It’s E9 in the YMC guide.

[andy_e]

In which case reinstate both Gordon and Will! 

[cheque]

Also from that guidebook: Sean Myles- FA of Rodney Mullen.

[remus]

Thanks for the replies everyone, great to see! Bit busy with work at the mo but will be back on list-ifying in a day or two.