[tomtom]

Power Club 564. Happy new year all...

Summary of 2020 - this was week 40 that I’ve been recording (280 days): 70 outdoor sessions, 134 training.

Mon: Knowle Heights. Shite weather. - one bit of dry rock. Did Easy Tiger SS (7A) that had eluded me last visit - and made progress on a 7B there - pissed off not to do it - as came really close. Involves a finger lock in a roof (not my forte) and having tried lots of ways to lank/trick my way around it, worked out I just have to finger lock the f*cker. Great fun in the end, but now have no skin on the back of two fingers! Tried a 8A on the same block - and managed to contort myself into the position before the (one) majorly hard move.... hmm...

Tues: Rest.

Weds: Good board session.

Thurs 31st. Rest.

Friday: New Years Day. Iffy weather (clag, snow, freezing conditions - take yer pick) so stayed at home and did some one arm pull ups.

Now, I’ve steered clear of them for the last 4 weeks to give my golfers a break. Decided to try some new rules. (1) with good form, starting from hanging a completely straight arm (2) only going to 90 deg. The last chin to hold part seemed to be the bit that aggravated my Golfers Elbow. Moved down from 16 to 12kg assist - ten reps in total for each arm.

Felt OK (bit achy in the GE the day after but seemed OK...) worked the shoulder a lot (going from straight arm).

Saturday: Froze hard overnight - unsure where to go, but had a full day pass. Managing to just stay within Greater Manchester, went up to Dove Lowe up above Littlebrough (I may have strayed  10-50m into West Yorkshire...). Long flat walk-in scrunching on the ice. Lots of snow scraping, some ice on the rock - some clean. Stayed below freezing all day. Came close-ish on one of Mike Adams new additions there (a 7B with a big press on a wall) but my foot skittered off and missed the pad. Went and checked out the Hammerhead (cool rock - never been before) - played on that for a bit then the snow came in proper (altered by my sister in Ilkley excitedly whatsapping me with snow pictures!) and walked back (45 min) back to the car in heavy snow (wind on my back thankfully). Great stuff - bit of type 2 fun rolled into things. Didnt do anything new, but a great day out. I rarely get more than 4 hour windows of time - so was great to have longer.

Sun: Afternoon board session. Good - its coming together well. New (medium small footholds) are just the right level for me now. Not impossible - but everything is a right fight. Did some sloper hangs (day before showed I wasn’t very good at them) and surprised myself at holding the 35’s one armed with 13kg taken off...

Seem to have gained 1-1.5kg weight over Xmas - so not too bad, but usually stubborn to shift this time of year (especially with lots of treats/left over Xmas food around).

[RobK]

A week that looks better on paper than it felt. Think I'm still trying to juggle too many different balls training wise and maybe I need to simplify things a little.

M - One arm max hangs. All complete with L@-19kg, R@-16kg. Hangar, playing on the white and yellow circuits. Fun couple of hours, felt like I was climbing well.

T - Boulder Hut. Campus board, sets of 125, 145, 146. Didn't complete the 146s but tickling the rung so still making progess. No access to a campus board for the forseeable though. Then AnCap boulder triples on the board. 20 minutes of 1 on/off on the circuit board. Felt like I was lacking aerobically a bit.

W - Rest.

T - Max hangs. Tried to drop the assistance from Monday but off the pace a little. Ended up settling at L@-19kg, R@-17kg. Then messed around with some assisted one armers. 20 minutes of 1 on/off on the board, didn't feel hard at all pleasingly. Finished with some bar core.

F - Anderson Hangs at lunchtime, new PB on 2 and 3 finger drags but off the pace on 3 finger HC.  AnCap extended boulders, tired unsurprisingly and skin a bit trashed. AeroCap repeaters to finish.

S - Rest.

S - 45 minutes board session. Fingers feeling a bit creaky so not as long as planned. Putting some new holds on the board which is always fun. Finished with AeroCap 8 x 1.15 on/off.

[shark]

Happy New Year Tom

11.8-10 Average 163.2 (up 0.5lbs)

M.

T. Snow! Ruled out Burbage / Blind Date session. Home FB warm up. PM Tor. Just me there apart from two women who turned up briefly to go for a swim.
Spent some time experimenting with new right toe hook and the best way to release it and put on top of pinch. Several goes before I got it sorted expending energy and bruising tips. Verdict. Slightly harder and knackier than my original way for that move but it makes the previous move so much easier that I’m going to stick with the new sequence. Then had several goes from the low edge and pinch with best go managing to get through the new moves falling off setting up for cross through so happy with that.

W. Lunch: 5 sets of 4 Fast pull ups with +10lbs. Chest to bar 11x. PB
Eve Extended Max hangs session on Ergo edge. Chance to try out the new dipping belt. So much better than an old harness  Recommended! Decent scores. 

T.

F. Hangover. Went out with Ben to Rivelin to check out Purple Haze but it was wet. Took dogs for a walk

S. AM Systems board. Four attempts at Oak ancap circuit. PM/Eve Bristol and back to drop Ben back at uni. Awful driving conditions

S.

Another week of strength gains. Aiming to go dry and lose 5lbs with Sharkathon.

[csl]

Coming into 2021 brimful of psyche so going to see if I can keep this up 

January Goals
- Climb a 7B on one of the boulders in Hackney, my only local "outdoor" climbing
- 10 mobility sessions. 1/10 so far
- Lose 2kg of Christmas weight
- Try hard on the board and stick to my training plan.

Monday 28th
20k steps

Tuesday 29th
Fingerboard - 5x 7 second hangs on 20mm edge @105kg
Isometric hangs on pull-up bar @ 120º and 90º @105kg

Wednesday 30th
Building shelves, 4 separate trips to Wickes as I kept forgetting things.
15k steps

Thursday 31st
Went to Mabley Green boulder, not actually the worst thing in the world, so I'll go back a bit while we are in Tier 4. Did a couple of 6B's.

Friday 1st
Started building a board in my garden.

Saturday 2nd
Finished building my board, including a 5th trip to Wickes. Unfortunately only have 4 hand holds until Wednesday 6th, so put them on the wall and did the first problem. For those who remember Tekno board, it's called "In honour of Bucket Feast" and graded VB.

Did a random box splits stretching session from youtube, need to keep this up!

Sunday 3rd

Built some more shelves. 6th trip to Wickes, really need to start making lists.

[Will Hunt]

Tuesday - Almscliff en famille. Mud like the Somme. 1 year old with dribble freezing onto his face. 3 year old made an ascent of the slab on the back of the Flying Arete boulder. Dad did Fractal and had a few pulls on Matterhorn Arete direct sit but didn't figure it out (pull harder?). A few bashes at Crusis but all was lost and we beat a retreat to the car.

Wednesday - Slipstones. Don't often get to come here so was very keen for a rematch with Layby Arete, if not quite doubtful that it would go. Ice and snow on the tops with a few inches of mantleable rock  Warmed up on various things then got stuck in. Did a lot of falling off the move to the crimp. New toe-hooking shoe held up to the punishment. All was lost and we had a rest. Then the shoes went back on and a few goes later it clicked. Forgot what to do at the top and had to have the handhold pointed out to me. Topped out with much Yessing, Yessing, Fucking, and Yessing. Left the Moors lads to it and did a few easy highballs I've not done before. Gorgeous.

Saturday - was gee'd up for Secret Seventh after giving it some good stick on Christmas Eve. Arrive just as the heavy snow started and completely fucked the problem. Went over to Blockbuster and did it first go. Have never really had a full session on Blockbuster, but have fallen off it countless times over the last 10 years. Felt steady. Topped out through a great quantity of snow.

Plenty of family walks etc on the days in between, often humping the toddler around in the official UKB child carrier (two careful previous UKB owners).

Was disappointed not to get a crack at Secret Seventh. Hopefully it comes into condition and I can find the knack again soon. Definitely not a given though.

[tomtom]

Thought you’d already done Lay-by Will? (Fine as it is...)

[Will Hunt]

Thought you’d already done Lay-by Will? (Fine as it is...)

No, I'd tried it on a previous visit and dropped it trying to go round the corner, splitting in the process. It was mentioned in Best of 2020 (second to last day of the year).

[Duma]

Power Club
M - nothing, took daughter to UCR but no climbing for me. Little bit of shoulder stuff in eve as its been increasingly tweak over the last month or two.
T - childcare, took daughter to TCA for a bit, fun session zooming round all the easy stuff with her, then half an hour of trying hard while she was buried in her phone.
W - TCA for an hours hard bouldering trying projects while daughter in park with buddy.
T - TCA for hour with daughter on easy stuff
F - walk in the woods and 30 min fb session, repeaters on lattice edge.
S - TCA 3 hrs. Hard bouldering, but long warm up and 20 min rest during so not as much volume as appears. Completed one of the wood problems I've been working on. Also finished building up my singlespeed so some thigh work to and from the wall.
S - TCA 2 hrs. More bouldering but still feeling yesterday's session so took it a bit easier. Still managed a couple of new whites, though one is a slab and the other was via better beta rather than physical improvement.

71kg, going the right way.

[dunnyg]

M- Chanced buckstones. Climbed some iced up font 3s before leaving, not that unpleasant out of the wind. One armed hand 4s on each arm in BM big slot.
T- Almscliff. Few easies, and did virgin trav into gypsy (7Aish). Stretched
W- Halton heights. Few things up to 6A before had to bail. Antag weights, quick stretch
T- Caley shonky lowball 6B then the horn LH 7A+, a long time nemesis. Stretch
F-
S-
S- One armed hands. BM main slot 6s rh, 4s lh. Might have got longer left, but fucked up timer on best go. Stretch.

Psyched to get out and not completely ignore the fingerboard. Felt the few days without stretching though. Feels like it might not be fingers causing failiure on one armed hangs. Can't be bad for me anyway.

[Coops_13]

M: Push. Incline press, shoulder press, lateral and front raise. Bench press BW X5 *3sets. Cable chest pulls. 10 mins incline walking

T: Density pickups up to 50lb RH, 45lb LH. Fingers still sore from bruising. Weighted pull-ups up to +80lb X3 *5sets. Front lever pulls X6 *3sets. Bike 10 mins

W: Drove to Vail to see specialist knee surgeon who told me although knee is deteriorating, I don't need a Meniscal Transplant yet YYFY and I've done well to go 10 years so far without needing one. MRI and check-up in a year's time.

T: Castlewood Canyon. Went up to Five & Dime area and tried a V6 called Ted's Hole. Did the highball loose sketch top-out first that was grim. Failed to do one of the moves so went to Fontainebleau area. Got on the crag classic Cave Direct V6. After some time I eventually got it with a huge dab. Apparently a dab is accepted at the V6 grade... Filth.


S: Maxwell Falls - Hick Boulder. Always wanted to come to this boulder. Amazing bit of rock with 6ish lines V6 - V11. Sent Fat Lady V7 fairly quickly and got to work on the V8 Right-hand variant. Added quite a bit and my PE wasn't quite up to scratch to finish it off. V keen to come back for this and other boulders there


S: Lattice High Intensity Core *3sets. 1 mile on incline treadmill. 2 mile hike round Mt. Falcon summit with pup

[Bradders]

After some time I eventually got it with a huge dab. Apparently a dab is accepted at the V6 grade... Filth.

In what world is that allowed?! Sickening. 

[gollum]

W/C 28/12/2020

M - Chest, Depot, abs, yoga
T - Campus, Max hangs, deadlifts, triceps, abs, yoga
W - Pull-ups, Big Depot, abs, yoga
T - Shoulders, campus, Max Hangs, abs, yoga
F - Run (failed), abs, yoga
S - Depot purples, biceps,treadmill walk,  abs, yoga
S - Chest, treadmill walk, abs, yoga


Ready for another week and think I may have got through Christmas without completely derailng my training. A bit of shifting days about this week and the job’s a pudding.

M - Start with flat bench press doing doubles and work up to a solid 97.5. Move on to incline bench for three slow reps and go to 65. Then onto 3x8 dumbbell floor presses with the 22.5s, a nice steady exercise with no momentum or muscle elasticity to help, but the biggest challenges actually getting the weights into position. Move on the single arm floor press for three reps, do three sets up to 32.5. Finish with 3x8 flys on the floor, which is a good battle.
Go to Depot to see how calf is and if it’s okay have a go at the new purples. Seems pretty good and get quite a lot of them done and dusted. A couple of moves where I’m hesitant about calf but just find another way. Go home without any drama, so think recovery is coming along nicely particularly if I’m cautious.
At home do 60 paused reps on the abs roller and a good yoga session to stretch the lower back. 

T - Drive down to Sheffield Depot which takes an age and several route changes to achieve. Campus boarding with bigger moves on bigger holds being the focus today, which seems to go pretty well once I get my timing sorted. Move on to Max Hangs 8x5 seconds on Beastmaker mouth. Start with 4K assistance, moved down to 2k but back to 4 for last set.
On to weights. Deadlifts and triceps. Work up to a very easy 140 on the deadlift but call it there as temp feels a bit low. Move on to triceps. 4x8 ring dips to start followed by 4x6 close grip presses. Next is crush presses for 3x8 with 40k. 3x6 bodyweight skull crushers on the rings. Continue with single arm Tate presses for 3 sets with increasing weight decreasing reps. Overhead single tri presses and tricep kick backs each for 3x8 to finish. Do some brief ring core exercises before I leave and discover that I can no longer do a meat hook hang.
80 paused res in the abs roller coming along nicely and finish with half an hour of yoga for hips and lower back.

W - Pull ups to start the day. Start with weighted pull-ups for two reps, starting at bodyweight and adding 5k each set to failure at 45k. Next is OAP which are positives on the right but negatives on the left. Move on to off set pull-ups for 3x5 on each side. Three sets of locks in full lock, three at 90° and three at 120°. Finish up with 5x6 close grip pull ups.
Nip to Bog Depot for a short session. Manage to do an orange in about 15 minutes, which is only the second one I think I’ve ever done and is certainly the first time I’ve done one in a session. Go on to do a couple more yellows and a purple and then go home, happy with how things have gone.
Mid afternoon 3x10 ab rollouts off the feet and then a yoga for abs session.

T - Gym for shoulders. Start with alternate press and holds on the machine for 3x10. Move on to machine presses for 4x6, keeping the tempo nice and slow and avoiding bounce at the bottom of each rep. Next is 3x8 dumbbell shoulder presses with a probated grip. Front raises on an incline bench with ultra slow negatives for 3x8. Seated lateral raises with a hold at the top of each rep for 3x6 Is next. Stability presses with a kettlebell for the smaller muscles with 3 sets of 8. Rear delt exercise is reverse flys for 3x10. Single arm scap raises for 3x8 and two arm scap raises for 4x8.
Depot for training session. Campus board with emphasis on fingers so shorter moves on smaller holds, although getting closer to some bigger moves as well. Have a brief play on the 50 board for the first time in ages and remind myself that it’s all quite hard but lots of fun. Finish with Max hangs for 5 seconds with 5k assist for first 2 sets, then 4K for two, 3k for two and finally 2k for two. Happy with how it went.
At home do 50 easy reps on the abs roller and a yoga for flexibility session and that’s the year done.

F - The plan is to start my run every day for January but when I start my calf doesn’t feel happy so keep it very short for today and will do other cardio stuff each day instead.
Do 100 paused reps with the abs roller which is pretty good progress over the last two months. Today’s yoga is also core based so feel like I’ve done some work by the end.

S - Depot in the morning. Good session, ticking a few more of the purples off and progressing on a few more.
Biceps session in the afternoon. Start with 4x8 Ez preacher curls. On to single arm steep bench curls for 3x6. Incline curls for three sets with increasing weight reducing reps. Superset of 3x6 seated curls and 3x6 drag curls. Strict barbell curls for 3x8 is next and a great exercise. 3 sets each arm of 10 curls with one arm where I hold the other isometrically at 90°, brutal even with light weights. Finish with 10 minutes on treadmill.
Easy 50 abs roller reps and then a nice relaxing yoga for shoulders, neck and upper back.

S - In an unpredictable world you try and get what you can, so back in the gym to work chest. Start with bench press for singles add 10k per set up to 100 and then 2.5 per set after that, peak at 110 and bottle it at 112.5, but happy enough. On to the decline press, get up to a very solid 112.5k which is comfortable and more importantly feels safe. Move on to 15° Smith machine for 5x3 up to 90. Next is 30° Smith for 4x3, finishing at 80, which feels a battle. On to flys for a big drop set, start with the 10s then down 2k each set to 2k, with as long a pause as I can hold at the bottom of each set. Svend presses for 50 to finish. 20 minutes treadmill walk before I go, listening to the KLF newly unrelated bits of back catalogue. Joy!!!!
For abs do 60 very slow reps with the abs roller and my abs based yoga session.
A walk in the local countryside later on to top off the day.

[spidermonkey09]

Two weeks worth, in brief:

T 22nd - max hangs. Success at 2kg assist which was a bonus, so decided to go for the jugular and drop the weight again next session.

T 24th - beautiful day at Rowtor. Intended to try Domes Sit but after nearly snapping my ankles in the foot locks I decided it was too risky and bailed. Went down to My Apple area and did the brilliant 6B arete next to it. Sorted start on My Apple and fell/bailed from hard move onto slab a few times. Fetched extra pad from car before scraping up it; fantastic problem and well worth seeking out. Finished with Yoghurt Hypnotist (just to the gutter as wet above; 7A+) and got a good spot on Domes Sit to check if I could actually make the reach. I couldn't; so that ones off the list.

25th-29th - festivities and development of irritating cough which necessitated a test to be sure and two days stuck inside when I could have been out! Test was negative so no harm done.

W 30th - Fingerboard. Tried a few bodyweight hangs and managed 3 seconds. When I could no longer pull off the floor switched to 1.25kg assist and did better. One arm pullups and press ups to finish.

S - Curbar. Morning hit to beat the snow. Good session on Walk On By, sorted lanky first move and got it consistently. Also did flick of LH into sidepull mono thing approx 5 times and got left foot up after that. Move out left to good sidepull thing feels really spanny; is there any short person beta here beyond pull harder? Had one go too many and went through tip. Lugged pads along to Trench and did Trench Flakes and Cloud Cuckoo Land, finishing up arete as top out was 90% ice. Escaped just as the snow hit before the roads got bad. Good session.

S - Roche Abbey. Dire weather so went for the limestone. A few good 7s and didn't destroy any more skin, so a good training session.

Psyched on Walk On By. Less psyched for more fingerboard time now the walls are closed but nevermind.

[Carl]

Feel like I should start writing in here, might get me to actually do some consistent training! Especially if (when) the wall closes/weather turns shit/we're forbidden from leaving the house (choose any two).

STG - Get a good start to the year's bouldering goals in Q1. 2-3 7B+ and some decent progress on a 7C would be great. Left-hand Man should go quickly when dry, and Zaff Skoczylas sit should also go.
MTG - Develop improved bouldering into sport and trad this year. Figure out my level on the local limestone & start trying hard again on trad. Feel like this won't really start until it warms up a bit and restrictions get eased.
LTG - Not really sure. Keep having fun climbing!

Mon 28 - AM walk, then PM bouldering at Burbage South Valley for Scratch Scoop, one of the few things I'd not yet done there. Ended up going fairly quickly, although not very prettily. Celebrated by trying Puck sit-start and ripped an enormous hole in my finger slipping off - oops.

Tue 29 - Planned to go to Stanage but didn't fancy the hill after Burbage bridge in the snow, so parked there instead. Snowy wander around Burbage skyline nursing my finger. WSS looked absolutely mint, hopefully I can get back on that soon!

Wed 30 - Big snowy walk above Ladybower, really nice. Even got to finish it off with a takeaway pint from the pub.

Thu 31 - Smaller snowy walk over the top of Stanage. Had a look around Plantation boulders and brushed some snow off the top of The Storm, hoping that it may go with a hole in my left middle finger.

Fri 1 - Quick afternoon hit at Hurkling Stones with a few problems up to about 6B.

Sat 2 - Entertaining if not very successful visit to Plantation to look at a few potential projects for the year. Spent a while on The Storm, was fairly consistently getting to the rockover with a toe on, but not getting the distance to the top. Wanted to try the heel beta on this as well, but couldn't get it on. Ended up taking a chunk out of my right thumb on a slip, so went to look at some other problems. My friend wanted to look at Ron's Slab by Crescent Arete, but we didn't really get anywhere. I had a play on Brad Pit, which seemed like it could be feasible. Would be good to see how it feels with a better heel than my Blancos. Probably should have left about an hour earlier than I did as the drive back was a bit sketchy, but happily I didn't end up in a ditch.

Sun 3 - Went to the Works at lunchtime for a couple of hours. The Murples were new since I'd last been, but felt pretty broken and only managed a few of them. Some pushups and scapular wall slides after to keep my elbows and shoulders in check, which I really ought to do more regularly.


The last couple of weeks have been great, especially the weather mostly cooperating! Felt good to get out regularly. Hopefully my finger heals up quick and the weather (and Covid restrictions) stay amenable to lamp sessions. Otherwise I might have to start using the fingerboard again...

[User deactivated.]

Going to start posting here consistently to track and maintain progress a little better. I can't remember the exact days I did things last week but will be keeping a diary going forwards. Highlights 28th Dec to 3rd Jan:

Several sessions on the kilter board at City Bloc, generally having up to 5 tries at problems graded c. 7A to 7B and then moving on if I don't get them and making a note of it for next time if it's any good. I figure that by moving on after 5 goes i'm getting a more varied training stimulus rather than hammering one problem. Finding that I climb hardest at 30-45 degrees, so will focus on 50+.

Walked up to hunters roof to find it covered in snow and unclimbable. Retreated to Almscliff and spent longer than I should have re-working Underhand crux moves after first doing it 6 months ago. Hit the jug eventually and went for the extension but didn't have the beans after 3 days on. Had a brief look at stretch armstrong but I might be out-stretched even at 6'2!

Parked at Embsay reservoir in -4C, but glorious outside. Hiked up the hill and started playing on the fly. Snow came in heavy so we dragged the mats over to Jasons roof. Tried pulling on a few times but the mats were getting wet and it was too much effort keeping shoes dry. Hiked back down through a blizzard to some absolute scenes getting out of the carpark, narrowly avoiding the wall with a late handbrake turn to get it round the corner - thankfully I was prepared having spent my late teens miscreant years drifting in carparks!

A couple of fingerboard & gymnast rings sessions. PB on slow strict muscle ups (9). I'm finding my fingerboard scores are down quite significantly if it's the day after a board session or outdoor session so will start climbing/training on more of a 1 day on 1 day off approach, unless weather permits an outdoor session then I'll strike while the irons hot.

Bought a skateboard to keep me entertained after the kids have gone to bed on rest days. Long time BMXer / mountain biker but cannot behave myself on bikes - any time I come back to BMX, within a couple of sessions i'm already going upside down and doing things with massive injury potential. Never owned a skateboard before but have acquired ollies over the years on other peoples boards. 1 hour session after hours in IKEA carpark, first pop shove-it (rolling) and first kickflip (stationary and sketchy), psyched!

[shark]

Feel like I should start writing in here,

 

[Coops_13]

After some time I eventually got it with a huge dab. Apparently a dab is accepted at the V6 grade... Filth.

In what world is that allowed?! Sickening. 

Disgusting isn't it  Would be a three-star problem otherwise

[nai]

Sorted start on My Apple and fell/bailed from hard move onto slab a few times. Fetched extra pad from car before scraping up it; fantastic problem and well worth seeking out. Finished with Yoghurt Hypnotist (just to the gutter as wet above; 7A+)

So how many pads did you use on My Apple? Seem to recall you saying it suited you/short folk at some point which got me interested.

I worked out how to do the prow of YH and must have gone back about eight times to get the top in nick, always on low humidity days when wind the was right and should have been doing a good job. Total waste of time and it's totally out of character, fine (if a little scary) as the 6B+. Rowtor is the home of the hard mantel finish but dropping off at the break seems sensible on this.

[spidermonkey09]

So how many pads did you use on My Apple? Seem to recall you saying it suited you/short folk at some point which got me interested.

I worked out how to do the prow of YH and must have gone back about eight times to get the top in nick, always on low humidity days when wind the was right and should have been doing a good job. Total waste of time and it's totally out of character, fine (if a little scary) as the 6B+. Rowtor is the home of the hard mantel finish but dropping off at the break seems sensible on this.

I had three pads but one more would have been ideal if you aren't taking a spotter (which would be the best option!). This is the sequence I used : . Highly recommended, totally safe until you are on the slab but once up there you don't want to fall off really!

Yeah, YH to the gutter should be a problem in its own right as the gutter keeps it so dry. The mantel looks fun but can't imagine dropping it there when dry.

[cheque]

totally safe until you are on the slab but once up there you don't want to fall off really!

Looks like you could get some gear in that crack too. 

[nai]

I had three pads but one more would have been ideal if you aren't taking a spotter (which would be the best option!).

Cheers, can't see many of my regular partners being up for that. Suppose Plattsy is probably flexible enough and he likes a grim mantel

The mantel looks fun but can't imagine dropping it there when dry.

It's not and I did. That second fact may have swayed my opinion on the first point

[Duncan Disorderly]

Happy 2021 y'all!

M: Routes @ AW - Plan was to get on F7a+ but area was well crowded so went for a burn on an F7c I'd tried before Kalymnos in October... Surprised myself! Did all the moves (although the last section was debatable as even though I could do the moves in isolation I couldn't fathom how to get into the throw for the last hold and there was plenty of hanging around berfore actually doing it - I guess there might be some matchy tomfoolery involved that I'm yet to figure out)... F7a+ came free at end of sesh and went for a RP, new high point but was boxed early and pretty much powered out by the final crux. Did some big links while boxed... All there but definitely done easier F7b's!
T: Rest and shoulder stability stuff...
W: Routes @ AW - Did 4 routes up to F6c to warm up and crushed project first go! Still had to fight but wasn't in any doubt... Looked at vertical life app and it gets F7b - not gonna argue with that! Good end to 2020...
T: Shoulder shizzle then pissed til the early hours...
F: Hungover
S: AW Routes up to F6b+ - Felt tired but nuff good mileage...
S: Shoulder stuff...

Good end to the year... Definitely on track to tick summat F7c'sh in the summer if this progress continues and I stay injury free (a big if that one!!)... Not really been one for projecting indoors but enjoy the process outside so why not!

Ace...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - snatch rack pulls 90 kg 5x5. DL 90 kg 5x4, snatch DL 80 kg 5x1. Lattice Edge session in between, very tired from DIY but managed up to +4 kg.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - weights.
Fri - weights.
Sat - wheel session, brutal.
Sun - boxing bag, power!

[Sasquatch]

After some time I eventually got it with a huge dab. Apparently a dab is accepted at the V6 grade... Filth.

In what world is that allowed?! Sickening. 

I think there's a difference between a dab and a powerspot 

[nai]

M   RHS & Cratcliffe. Did the king lines of Ben & Jerry's Love Child and Low Slung. Both actually climb quite well despite the former being a bit hemmed in to start (but does have quite a memorable rockover) and the latter traversing a shoulders high boulder with a bunched pullon and tough mantel finish.

T few weights with nipper and some strecthing

W - 1/2 crimp deadhangs and a few power problems

Th short board session . Decided to try my AnCap circuit that I've not touched for over a year. Took some working and a very big effort just to do it once.  Failed to repeat it.

F big leg/hip and shoulder stretch

S Burbage to try Blind Ali,  bad choice, was rubbish, folk arrived ans it snowed so took the opportunity to bale. More shoulder massage and stretching

S more stretching