Adding mine from 2020 into here (because I did one!)….Some hopefully achievable ones for me, mainly good climbs at reasonable grades to try and make me get to some of the crags I wish I went to more.Tremolo 7c @ Malham. Hopefully in 2-3 sessions. Nope, but got my first 7c at Yew Cogar instead. Haven’t been to Malham at allOnsight Yosemite Wall 7a+ @ Malham. I’ve been saving that for too long - time to give it a go. didn’t make it to malham - boooNight Glue 7a+ @ LPT. A good reason to go there - preferably onsight. didn’t make it to LPT either. The two trips I had to wales had shit tides unfortunately Grand Canyon 7b+ @ Devil’s Gorge. Been wanting to give it a go for ages horribly condensed the time I intended to go over. Electric Warrior or Wargames or Super DuPont @ Chapel Head Scar. One of these ticked off would be great and get me back to the crag. managed electric warrior second go - really cool route and felt pretty easy. Had a good flash go too, think I’d have done it if I put my foot in the right place. Also my first U.K. 7a onsight the same daySmooth Torquer 7a+ @ Kilnsey. An old nemesis...Powerband 7C @ the tor. The least likely one to go… no bouldering in the peak at all this year Mandala traverse 7C @ Kinsey the main aim of this was a 7C close to home. Ended up focusing on Launch Control instead and managed that, so I’ll take this one.Try to stay injury free. A2 pulley - FFS
Kind of hard to make aims due to injury, the fact that my UK goals are all on the wettest bit of the relevant crags, and Brexit/COVID uncertainty around ability to travel, but here goes, in chronological order:1) All I want for ChristmasQ1 2021 and early Q2 2021 is to fix my god damn PIP joint. Or at least to improve it. With this in mind, the whole of Jan will be spent only fingerboarding to coax it back to tolerating higher loads. No endurance work either, since it doesn't like volume. Obviously the rest of the year is somewhat dependent on achieving this. Hopefully can be back climbing more by March/April - making progress with this thing is like turning a supertanker around. Hahahaha. Flare up of unexplained swelling in the adjacent finger meant it stayed messed up early in the year. Poured a bunch of cash into physios, hand consultants, an MRI, a rheumatologist. Took 6 weeks off to try a "factory reset"... no real joy. But, while it's not got better - and I can't see a route to it getting better - I've finally largely accepted that it is what it is. There's lots I can still do, even if there's lots I can't. It likes onsight/flash (which is fortunately my favourite too), like steepness on big holds (also my favourite) and when I gave up on trying to fix it I left behind a lot of the stress about how it's doing. Swollen and sore? Ok, who cares, it's only a setback if you're trying to get it back to being not swollen. So while it's frustrating, I'm in a WAY better place with it than a year ago mentally.2) Be sensible enough to abandon all goals apart from Kilnsey proj 1 (which is finger friendly) in favour of rest/rehab any time this rears its ugly head again.See above3) Spring/Summer: do some fun, preferably hard, preferably new, UK sport routes- Kilnsey proj 1 (working title "Preposterous Tales") Fuck yeah. So much fun.- Kilnsey proj 2 (I really hope this climbs how I think it might) Only tried for 30 min then took 6 weeks off. Very hard, not sure it will climb how I hoped. Font 8 in the roof for sure. Did start cleaning proj 3 which is climbable but also v hard and needs more choss removal- Cornice proj (not bolted) Didn't bolt- Something at Malham (Something for nothing, Sabotage, Fixation) I will probably never climb a hard route at Malham again. Too fingery.4) Do fun foreign climbing in autumn. Some hard onsights would be nice.Very much so! FJ was fun (and v nice for the ego to flash 8b there); France was awesome and did lots of onsights and flashes and getting close to onsights/flashes. God I love being away climbing in Europe; God I love steep pumpy routes.
Quote from: yetix on January 08, 2021, 11:35:48 amBoulder 8A25 7Cs and above No sure if this will be unrealistic or not. But hopefully I can make it happen.Managed 29 7Cs so far, been working towards 50 for some time now though... Form has really slowed down recently as I struggle with the summer conditions (boohoo) but hoping to keep stumbling through them.Managed 1 8A which is an eliminate version of a 7C+ I'd previously done, been close on 2 other 8As but then summer struck, if I can regain form will try them again after the summer.
Boulder 8A25 7Cs and above No sure if this will be unrealistic or not. But hopefully I can make it happen.
A weird mix of a year, from being pretty damn gloomy about everything early in the year, to wondering whether to bin climbing, to doing my Kilnsey proj, taking 6 weeks off, failing to fix my finger, accepting that it won't fix, realising I still bloody love rock climbing even when my finger is perma-injured, having a block of awesome time away, coming back and barely climbing outdoors for 2 months due to family stress, weather and covid...By far the best thing of the year has been realising that even if my finger is likely to never really fix and will limit route choices and how I can climb/train, I still love climbing and am still psyched off my tits for it. Much more important than clipping any chains. God, I sound like a hippy. Quote from: abarro81 on January 01, 2021, 04:07:22 pmKind of hard to make aims due to injury, the fact that my UK goals are all on the wettest bit of the relevant crags, and Brexit/COVID uncertainty around ability to travel, but here goes, in chronological order:1) All I want for ChristmasQ1 2021 and early Q2 2021 is to fix my god damn PIP joint. Or at least to improve it. With this in mind, the whole of Jan will be spent only fingerboarding to coax it back to tolerating higher loads. No endurance work either, since it doesn't like volume. Obviously the rest of the year is somewhat dependent on achieving this. Hopefully can be back climbing more by March/April - making progress with this thing is like turning a supertanker around. Hahahaha. Flare up of unexplained swelling in the adjacent finger meant it stayed messed up early in the year. Poured a bunch of cash into physios, hand consultants, an MRI, a rheumatologist. Took 6 weeks off to try a "factory reset"... no real joy. But, while it's not got better - and I can't see a route to it getting better - I've finally largely accepted that it is what it is. There's lots I can still do, even if there's lots I can't. It likes onsight/flash (which is fortunately my favourite too), like steepness on big holds (also my favourite) and when I gave up on trying to fix it I left behind a lot of the stress about how it's doing. Swollen and sore? Ok, who cares, it's only a setback if you're trying to get it back to being not swollen. So while it's frustrating, I'm in a WAY better place with it than a year ago mentally.2) Be sensible enough to abandon all goals apart from Kilnsey proj 1 (which is finger friendly) in favour of rest/rehab any time this rears its ugly head again.See above3) Spring/Summer: do some fun, preferably hard, preferably new, UK sport routes- Kilnsey proj 1 (working title "Preposterous Tales") Fuck yeah. So much fun.- Kilnsey proj 2 (I really hope this climbs how I think it might) Only tried for 30 min then took 6 weeks off. Very hard, not sure it will climb how I hoped. Font 8 in the roof for sure. Did start cleaning proj 3 which is climbable but also v hard and needs more choss removal- Cornice proj (not bolted) Didn't bolt- Something at Malham (Something for nothing, Sabotage, Fixation) I will probably never climb a hard route at Malham again. Too fingery.4) Do fun foreign climbing in autumn. Some hard onsights would be nice.Very much so! FJ was fun (and v nice for the ego to flash 8b there); France was awesome and did lots of onsights and flashes and getting close to onsights/flashes. God I love being away climbing in Europe; God I love steep pumpy routes.
Next year
You been tripping Barrows??
Managed 43 7Cs
Been a bit of lean few years as I've struggled to find a good balance between climbing and running, so ended up doing neither especially well. Hoping this might help me focus a bit, one way or another.Running :-i) Sub 3-hour marathon - got a race lined up in March with a "Covid-safe plan", although whether it happens is anyone's guess. If it doesn't happen, enjoy the process of following a structured plan and getting some quality training in. Unsurprisingly the race didn't happen and I couldn't face a marathon time trial, but I did enjoy the process of having a plan and was probably as running fit as I've ever been (for the roads at least).ii) Build on the aerobic base from (i) and try for a PB at one of the shorter distances - sub-17 for 5k, sub 35:30 for 10k. Ran a 27:39 5 mile as part of a virtual relay event, which was a massive PB. Also had a 17:03 5k split as part of the same race, so in no doubt that I could have gone sub-17 for 5k and sub-35 for 10k if that's what I'd been racing on the day. Finished the year with a 36:20 10k which, although disappointing vs. my targets, shows I've got some decent fitness to build on next year.iii) Get back to local fell races over the summer - a few V40 prizes would be nice. Had a decent summer in the local races - a good run of top 10 placings overall, 1st V40 at Crowden Horseshoe and 2nd V40 at a few others. Won the Sheffield Way Relay for the 3rd year running as well.iv) Top-5 V40 team at the British Fell Relays in October - 7th in 2019 and 2 mins off top-5, so definitely achievable. Didn't manage to get a V40 team together, but ran in the Open team and finished about 30th overall.v) Reduce the miles over the summer so I've got more energy for climbing. This happened over April/May due to an ankle niggle, but ended up increasing mileage over the summer as my motivation for climbing disappeared in the heat.Climbing :-i) Tie on to a rope more - I've got out of the habit of doing routes over the last 4 or 5 years, so don't mind if it's sport or trad but need to reverse that trend. Ideally get back to being reasonably consistent at E4/5 or F7c/+. Couple of days trad and couple of days sport, so better than nowt but a long way from target grades. 3 years of next to no roped climbing has taken its toll on my confidence!ii) Get involved with a project or two - doesn't need to be long term, I've rarely spent longer than 3 sessions on anything, but having to try hard on stuff really helps my climbing. Couldn't find the time.iii) Tick a few things off the boulder problem project list. Ideally get back to being reasonably consistent at 7B. Done reasonably well at this, managed more stuff at 7B and above than in the last few years. Flashing Zippy's was pleasing along with a great day up at Back/Howshaw Tor.iv) Continue exploring some of the more esoteric venues and tucked away gems around the Peak. Only new venues I can think of were Back/Howshaw Tors and Cucklett Delf. Not exactly esoterica!
Quote from: Duncan campbell on December 24, 2021, 11:02:54 amYou been tripping Barrows?? I don't understand..? You mean how did I become such a zen Sharma-esque hippy? (this is very much how I view myself obviously) Or that I spend too much time going on/talking about trips (of the climbing variety)? Or neither?
1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench Big steep proj done, thrilled with it. Best new route I've done, a real peach I think. Big link didn't try, but managed another new route on the seaward end. 2. Christine No cigar. Didn't do any dws, climbing fell by the wayside from June to November due to family stuff. 3. A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards. Put some proper time and effort into Devon sent during the Jan lock down but no cigar. Happy enough with the effort I put in really. It's definitely possible for me, just need slightly steelier fingers and a longer period of good cons. 4. Onsight e6 for first time in years. No chance 5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.No chance
I've never really managed to stay focussed on any goals I've set in the past. I think the few that I was focussed on I ended up with unrelated injuries which prevented success. Anyway. Having moved up to Edinburgh, and now likely to be in Scotland until at least Sept 2022 I should be thinking about adventures up here, which is great as I've hardly scratched the surface.Other half's job is now permanent, so we're staying in Scotland and hoping to buy a place in the central belt next year Climb some winter classics. I'm not that bothered by the grades, I'd just like to have some great days in the mountains. Doing something on Creag Meaghaidh, Lochnagar or Etchachan would be amazing. It might be touch and go this winter depending on restrictions.I've only had 1 winter day out, but it was a great day and I'm hopeful for this winter to be a good one.Mountain RockSo many big routes to do up here. Having been to Lewis this year I'd like to return because we never did the Prozac Link - it was too wet for the mountains on our trip, but adding that to The Big Lick and Stone would be an awesome trip and I have a partner who would be keen and is moving north in a couple of months.I'd like to get some routes in on the Ben and Shelterstone too.Not as much as I'd like, but had a great few days on Beinn Eighe and ticked Shibboleth with Duncan, which scratched an itch.Other TradChemin de Fer at Dumbarton is a must I think. I'd also like to have a look at Wild Country and Dalriada on the Cobbler as well as some of the trad at Dunkeld.Didn't do a lot of trad, got a few things done at Dunkeld, but wasn't really fit enough for anything I was really keen for. I was working a lot of weekends and struggled for midweek partners this year.SportMarlene at Dunkeld. Had a look this autumn, did the moves but I had no fitness, a good spring goal I think. It would be great to do a few of the routes on this face, it's a lovely bit of rock.Didn't do enough climbing to be fit enough for Marlene, but got some good sport routes done at Chapel Head, Malham, Weem and Dunkeld all the same. Hopefully the wall will remain open this winter so I can be match fit when the weather warms up.Other outdoorWe'd love to do another sea kayak trip, probably around Skye this time. I'd also like to take SO for a few overnight walks in the hills.3 great trips this year. Terrible weather in Knoydart but a good adventure and feel I'm building a good base of skills. Long term prospects look good for continuing this in Scotland. OH now has some winter boots too so we can do some Munros in the colder months.LifeI've got really lazy this autumn. I've lost a lot of motivation for exercise and have drunk too much (more like too regularly) for most of the year. I'd like to get back into good habits with this, running and fingerboarding regularly as well as doing some more yoga - I had a new user deal at a place last year and after a month I was getting the hang of it and seeing some gains. Sharkathon is my starting point.Get my book to the point where I can pitch it to agents with some hope of success.Get funding for an overly ambitious new climbing podcast/book project I've been working on.It took me a while, but drinking habits headed in the right direction and motivation for exercise was recovered, I'm finishing the year as fit as I've been in a long while despite a few injuries in the autumn.Book progress has been very slow due to working too many hours and not having a great time with mental health this year, which hasn't left me a lot in reserve for potential knockbacks. I'm hoping that if I can continue on a good trend with other life things this winter I'll be in a better place to make the final push I need.
1. Finish of the Boulder guide for Strathnairn{Inverness} Done all the master text, taking/collecting pics for the final edit.
Training- Stick to my training plan; really keen to stick to the plan, address my weaknesses and keep making gains. - have barely missed a session all year, even in the week after my daughter was born still managed to do 30 mins on the fingerboard a couple of times! In fact perhaps one of the biggest successes I've had with parenthood so far has been feeling like I'm managing to fit everything in. - Stretch / yoga every day - got a bit lazy with this over summer but back on it now. Climbing- Film things more; used to he dead keen on filming things, but for some reason have lost the love in the last couple of years. Would be good to start up again. - yep all on my phone but it's something- Do a car camping mini-trip; I'm a bit of a home bird, I like my creature comforts, but I have a car which would be fine to sleep in and doing so would both help me get away more easily and take me out of my comfort zone. Been meaning to do this for years, just need to do it! - nope, Covid, pregnancy, baby, etc.- Do a little more projecting; since June I haven't finished a single boulder problem that has taken more than a session. Had a handful of sessions on things that will take longer but really without much conviction or consistency. Just haven't been in the mood, but would like to get going again. - uuuurrrgggghhhh, I'll save the Ben's Groove Sit write up for the "Best of 2021" thread, but all I can bring myself to say here is at least I can tick this goal! - 30 sport routes, any grade; did my first routes this year, and then only a handful. Keen to just build volume and experience this year, don't fancy sinking lots of time into something hard; something to do over Summer when it's too hot for bouldering. - 35 done in the end, across the grades but mostly in the 7s. Loved it. Already psyched for next season.- Go to Switzerland; hopefully will help with at least one of the above. - nope, Covid, pregnancy, baby, etc.- Spend a bit more time on the moors; loads of Yorkshire moorland crags I've not even been to, including Rylstone, Hellifield, Rolling Gate, Roova, etc. Knocking a couple of those off the list would be good. - went sport climbing instead. Every time I go to Kilnsey I think I should pay a visit to Rylstone at some point but it hasn't happened yet. Closest I came was a visit to Howshaw Tor on a warm day in April; had an okay day but the fact I just sport climbed for 3 months thereafter perhaps says it all! Grade chasing- At least one 8A; done at least one the last four years in a row. Would be good to make it five. - unbelievably close; got to the end of Matador Low at Attermire and just needed to match, but slipped off. So taking half a tick.- 10 or more 7C+ and up; current PB for a year is 9. Was hoping for 15 last year. Hopefully this is achievable. Most of the ones I want to do aren't local, which will mean I need to be more efficient/do them quicker. - did 3 in pretty short order, so given I spent less time bouldering this year than any other before (much of which was spent on Ben's) that's not too bad, especially as with the pregnancy I couldn't justify travelling to the stuff in the Lakes etc. that I was most keen for. Just not actually all that psyched for grit either unfortunately. Next year need to make better use of the Eastern lime I think. I did also do Ben's from 3 moves in, which I reckon easily counts as 7C+ in itself, 9 or 10 times - Sport 7c+; backup goal in case the below doesn't happen... - did This is the Sea at Chee Dale Cornice 3rd go. It's a boulder problem on a rope but taking it- Sport 8a; just because I'm enjoying the sport so much atm and this is surely plausible at least. Fitness is definitely improving. - did Subculture at Kilnsey. This was the only thing I projected (8 sessions) other than Ben's so it was great to get it done. Loved the Kilnsey scene over summer too. Life- Get married; rollover from last year, because Covid. - great day, despite the restrictions. Even then managed to get in a reception a few months later. - Get out of my own head; really need to turn negative self-talk into positive, as the former has definitely held me back recently, and on occasions stops me even leaving the house. - yep, big improvement on last year
Quote from: scragrock on December 24, 2021, 10:41:56 am 1. Finish of the Boulder guide for Strathnairn{Inverness} Done all the master text, taking/collecting pics for the final edit.What areas do you still need to do? Might have some extra free time next year to trip about and do some obscure bouldering, take photos etc. Might teach myslef how to do some self timer type shots with a good camera on a tripod... Let me google to see if I can with my Oly E5iii
Do you or have you climbed a lot in Strathnairn?