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Aims for 2021 (Read 30098 times)

James Malloch

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#125 Re: Aims for 2021
December 23, 2021, 10:57:06 pm
Adding mine from 2020 into here (because I did one!)….

Some hopefully achievable ones for me, mainly good climbs at reasonable grades to try and make me get to some of the crags I wish I went to more.

Tremolo 7c @ Malham. Hopefully in 2-3 sessions. Nope, but got my first 7c at Yew Cogar instead. Haven’t been to Malham at all

Onsight Yosemite Wall 7a+ @ Malham. I’ve been saving that for too long - time to give it a go. didn’t make it to malham -  booo

Night Glue 7a+ @ LPT. A good reason to go there - preferably onsight. didn’t make it to LPT either. The two trips I had to wales had shit tides unfortunately

Grand Canyon 7b+ @ Devil’s Gorge. Been wanting to give it a go for ages horribly condensed the time I intended to go over.

Electric Warrior or Wargames or Super DuPont @ Chapel Head Scar. One of these ticked off would be great and get me back to the crag.
  managed electric warrior second go - really cool route and felt pretty easy. Had a good flash go too, think I’d have done it if I put my foot in the right place. Also my first U.K. 7a onsight the same day

Smooth Torquer 7a+ @ Kilnsey. An old nemesis...

Powerband 7C @ the tor. The least likely one to go… no bouldering in the peak at all this year

Mandala traverse 7C @ Kinsey the main aim of this was a 7C close to home. Ended up focusing on Launch Control instead and managed that, so I’ll take this one.

Try to stay injury free. A2 pulley - FFS

It was a good year for me, before injury struck a few months ago.

Had a great time at Kilnsey/Yew Cogar, getting out lots after work. Injury came after a spell of harder bouldering on what I said was going to be my last after work session. So timing wasn’t that bad really.

A lot of my aims were based around going to new places, and getting some within reach ticks (grade wise). Managed to get to some awesome new places anyway and had my best year ever anyway. First 7C Boulder, first 7c route, basically a 7b+ flash (I’d done the last few moved on another route), fast 7b routes and some onsights too.

Felt like I had a real good flow going before I got injured.

Just bought a van though ready for a 9 month trip from April, so some rehab over winter before then is in need. Will be interesting to think about for aims next year!

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#126 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 10:00:00 am
Here's what I wrote at the beginning of the year...

I mainly want to enjoy myself being myself out in the Welsh wilds this year. However, I'd be keen to break the habit of being out on my lonesome. I love lone exploring, but it can restrict you too, and I could certainly do with some social grounding.
Better. Certainly climbed with quite a few people

That's all a bit airy fairy, there are some concrete goals too.

1. Climb the Tosheroon project. Going to get scientific and take a stepladder. Ideally I need a spotter for this one, so need a fellow covid free enthusiast. One for the warmer months anyway.
yep! This took some effort, mainly in asking for help and support Mark Reeves, Rafe and Fiend were key for this one

2. Tick the major jamming boulders of North Wales. 4 mountain and 3 coastal to go.still haven't done American Monster Crack, Dangleberries or Jellybowl crack. But certainly had fun on this challenge. Need some connies to finish it off

3. Climb the project I bust my ankle on. Need many pads and spotters this time. Another requirement for covid to sort it's act out.
Yep! Again made possible by the support of Mark Reeves and Dave Fiddler who slogged into Cwmfynnon with me.

4. Develop a new area I've found with company. A theme is growing here.
No new areas this year. Been too busy.

5. Climb 10 three star boulders I haven't climbed before (that one's for Panton) just to see what the fuss is about.
Bit cheeky marking this orange really, but climbed George's Crack so that's one. In my world Maneater at Talfarach and Black Country Crack in Parc Dudley are also 3* experiences

Wellsy

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#127 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 10:19:07 am
I started 2021 with a max grade of 6B+ outdoors, but with a real sense that I could do more at the time and develop in the year. I set myself the challenge of doing several 6Cs and 6C+s and also breaking into the realm of 7A.

Since then I've done about ten 6Cs, a couple of 6C+s, four 7As and three 7A+s, with a decent split of limestone in Summer and grit in autumn/winter (except for the 7A+s, all on lime). So I met my goal and then exceeded it quite happily.

I also has a vague goal of doing 100kgs on the bench. I've done 85kgs for a 1 RM (pretty good with a BW of 75kgs) and since slacked it off as not hugely useful, but I will be back

Next year I'd like to do 7B on grit and 7B+ on lime. I'd also like to expand and consolidate my 6C to 7A+ range and double the amount of problems done in those grades to round out the pyramid.

In terms of fitness, one armed hanging on a BM 25mm or 20mm edge, and continue progression towards a front lever, ring muscle up and one armer. The ring muscle up could happen the other two are quite a way away probably!

Anyway good first year climbing outdoors and feeling quite positive about year two :)

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#128 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 10:26:37 am
A weird mix of a year, from being pretty damn gloomy about everything early in the year, to wondering whether to bin climbing, to doing my Kilnsey proj, taking 6 weeks off, failing to fix my finger, accepting that it won't fix, realising I still bloody love rock climbing even when my finger is perma-injured, having a block of awesome time away, coming back and barely climbing outdoors for 2 months due to family stress, weather and covid...

By far the best thing of the year has been realising that even if my finger is likely to never really fix and will limit route choices and how I can climb/train, I still love climbing and am still psyched off my tits for it. Much more important than clipping any chains. God, I sound like a hippy.

Kind of hard to make aims due to injury, the fact that my UK goals are all on the wettest bit of the relevant crags, and Brexit/COVID uncertainty around ability to travel, but here goes, in chronological order:

1) All I want for ChristmasQ1 2021 and early Q2 2021 is to fix my god damn PIP joint. Or at least to improve it. With this in mind, the whole of Jan will be spent only fingerboarding to coax it back to tolerating higher loads. No endurance work either, since it doesn't like volume. Obviously the rest of the year is somewhat dependent on achieving this. Hopefully can be back climbing more by March/April - making progress with this thing is like turning a supertanker around.
Hahahaha. Flare up of unexplained swelling in the adjacent finger meant it stayed messed up early in the year. Poured a bunch of cash into physios, hand consultants, an MRI, a rheumatologist. Took 6 weeks off to try a "factory reset"... no real joy. But, while it's not got better - and I can't see a route to it getting better - I've finally largely accepted that it is what it is. There's lots I can still do, even if there's lots I can't. It likes onsight/flash (which is fortunately my favourite too), like steepness on big holds (also my favourite) and when I gave up on trying to fix it I left behind a lot of the stress about how it's doing. Swollen and sore? Ok, who cares, it's only a setback if you're trying to get it back to being not swollen. So while it's frustrating, I'm in a WAY better place with it than a year ago mentally.

2) Be sensible enough to abandon all goals apart from Kilnsey proj 1 (which is finger friendly) in favour of rest/rehab any time this rears its ugly head again.
See above

3) Spring/Summer: do some fun, preferably hard, preferably new, UK sport routes
- Kilnsey proj 1 (working title "Preposterous Tales") Fuck yeah. So much fun.
- Kilnsey proj 2 (I really hope this climbs how I think it might) Only tried for 30 min then took 6 weeks off. Very hard, not sure it will climb how I hoped. Font 8 in the roof for sure. Did start cleaning proj 3 which is climbable but also v hard and needs more choss removal
- Cornice proj (not bolted) Didn't bolt
- Something at Malham (Something for nothing, Sabotage, Fixation) I will probably never climb a hard route at Malham again. Too fingery.

4) Do fun foreign climbing in autumn. Some hard onsights would be nice.
Very much so! FJ was fun (and v nice for the ego to flash 8b there); France was awesome and did lots of onsights and flashes and getting close to onsights/flashes. God I love being away climbing in Europe; God I love steep pumpy routes.

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#129 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 10:41:56 am
What i wrote earlier in the year

Done ok in 2021 so far, Built my home wall and sent a 7yr long project.

A few things to tick off the year...
 
 1. Finish of the Boulder guide for Strathnairn{Inverness}
Done all the master text, taking/collecting pics for the final edit.
 2. F.As of the Gruffulo and The man who would be King up in Rooftown
Worked both of these, need to get better/stronger.
 3. Find cure for baldness and being a C**t
Nope and No chance.
 4. F.A of Tacht Troosers {my last line in Barry Valley and another long term project}
Might save this as my Last ever hard project.
 5. Get strong/good enough to eventually send Susurrus at Brin.
Ha
 6. Try Not to add to my ever increasing list of injuries and deal with chronic ailments better.
Back is still an issue but at least i have been careful and Not added to the list.
8. Persuade UKB folks that "Bring out your dabs" is a little bit judgey..... :worms:.Is it though?....But is it?....No seriously, Is it?
I suspect you guys like it Just the way it is

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#130 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 11:01:04 am
Boulder 8A
25 7Cs and above

No sure if this will be unrealistic or not. But hopefully I can make it happen.

Managed 29 7Cs so far, been working towards 50 for some time now though... Form has really slowed down recently as I struggle with the summer conditions (boohoo) but hoping to keep stumbling through them.

Managed 1 8A which is an eliminate version of a 7C+ I'd previously done, been close on 2 other 8As but then summer struck, if I can regain form will try them again after the summer.

Managed 43 7Cs in the end (though did hit 50 in a 12 month period at one point) this year. Think I had a few for 8as I had lined up when I was climbing well again, and I think I worked out I had another 25ish 7Cs which I did all the moves on but never went back to, should be happy with the year but a bit disappointed that I didn't manage to hit 50 within a calendar year.

The continuous bad cons in mid Oct-mid Nov just killed off my form/psych entirely and then I got psyched on training and projecting at the end of the year before my PIP joint swelling up again.

Last few weeks I've not done much as moving house has got in the way but pscyhed to setup a new training area

Duncan campbell

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#131 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 11:02:54 am
A weird mix of a year, from being pretty damn gloomy about everything early in the year, to wondering whether to bin climbing, to doing my Kilnsey proj, taking 6 weeks off, failing to fix my finger, accepting that it won't fix, realising I still bloody love rock climbing even when my finger is perma-injured, having a block of awesome time away, coming back and barely climbing outdoors for 2 months due to family stress, weather and covid...

By far the best thing of the year has been realising that even if my finger is likely to never really fix and will limit route choices and how I can climb/train, I still love climbing and am still psyched off my tits for it. Much more important than clipping any chains. God, I sound like a hippy.

Kind of hard to make aims due to injury, the fact that my UK goals are all on the wettest bit of the relevant crags, and Brexit/COVID uncertainty around ability to travel, but here goes, in chronological order:

1) All I want for ChristmasQ1 2021 and early Q2 2021 is to fix my god damn PIP joint. Or at least to improve it. With this in mind, the whole of Jan will be spent only fingerboarding to coax it back to tolerating higher loads. No endurance work either, since it doesn't like volume. Obviously the rest of the year is somewhat dependent on achieving this. Hopefully can be back climbing more by March/April - making progress with this thing is like turning a supertanker around.
Hahahaha. Flare up of unexplained swelling in the adjacent finger meant it stayed messed up early in the year. Poured a bunch of cash into physios, hand consultants, an MRI, a rheumatologist. Took 6 weeks off to try a "factory reset"... no real joy. But, while it's not got better - and I can't see a route to it getting better - I've finally largely accepted that it is what it is. There's lots I can still do, even if there's lots I can't. It likes onsight/flash (which is fortunately my favourite too), like steepness on big holds (also my favourite) and when I gave up on trying to fix it I left behind a lot of the stress about how it's doing. Swollen and sore? Ok, who cares, it's only a setback if you're trying to get it back to being not swollen. So while it's frustrating, I'm in a WAY better place with it than a year ago mentally.

2) Be sensible enough to abandon all goals apart from Kilnsey proj 1 (which is finger friendly) in favour of rest/rehab any time this rears its ugly head again.
See above

3) Spring/Summer: do some fun, preferably hard, preferably new, UK sport routes
- Kilnsey proj 1 (working title "Preposterous Tales") Fuck yeah. So much fun.
- Kilnsey proj 2 (I really hope this climbs how I think it might) Only tried for 30 min then took 6 weeks off. Very hard, not sure it will climb how I hoped. Font 8 in the roof for sure. Did start cleaning proj 3 which is climbable but also v hard and needs more choss removal
- Cornice proj (not bolted) Didn't bolt
- Something at Malham (Something for nothing, Sabotage, Fixation) I will probably never climb a hard route at Malham again. Too fingery.

4) Do fun foreign climbing in autumn. Some hard onsights would be nice.
Very much so! FJ was fun (and v nice for the ego to flash 8b there); France was awesome and did lots of onsights and flashes and getting close to onsights/flashes. God I love being away climbing in Europe; God I love steep pumpy routes.

You been tripping Barrows??  :P

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#132 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 11:16:36 am
Next year

Save that for the Aims for 2022 thread (when it arrives)!

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#133 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 11:28:26 am
You been tripping Barrows??  :P

I don't understand..? You mean how did I become such a zen Sharma-esque hippy? (this is very much how I view myself obviously) Or that I spend too much time going on/talking about trips (of the climbing variety)? Or neither?

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#134 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 11:29:25 am
Managed 43 7Cs

Fuck me Dan, good effort. You must have put some miles on your van this year looking at your logbook!

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#135 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 11:29:37 am
Not much advance on the first half of the year, particularly on the climbing front.

Been a bit of lean few years as I've struggled to find a good balance between climbing and running, so ended up doing neither especially well. Hoping this might help me focus a bit, one way or another.

Running :-
i) Sub 3-hour marathon - got a race lined up in March with a "Covid-safe plan", although whether it happens is anyone's guess. If it doesn't happen, enjoy the process of following a structured plan and getting some quality training in. Unsurprisingly the race didn't happen and I couldn't face a marathon time trial, but I did enjoy the process of having a plan and was probably as running fit as I've ever been (for the roads at least).
ii) Build on the aerobic base from (i) and try for a PB at one of the shorter distances - sub-17 for 5k, sub 35:30 for 10k. Ran a 27:39 5 mile as part of a virtual relay event, which was a massive PB. Also had a 17:03 5k split as part of the same race, so in no doubt that I could have gone sub-17 for 5k and sub-35 for 10k if that's what I'd been racing on the day. Finished the year with a 36:20 10k which, although disappointing vs. my targets, shows I've got some decent fitness to build on next year.
iii) Get back to local fell races over the summer - a few V40 prizes would be nice. Had a decent summer in the local races - a good run of top 10 placings overall, 1st V40 at Crowden Horseshoe and 2nd V40 at a few others. Won the Sheffield Way Relay for the 3rd year running as well.
iv) Top-5 V40 team at the British Fell Relays in October - 7th in 2019 and 2 mins off top-5, so definitely achievable. Didn't manage to get a V40 team together, but ran in the Open team and finished about 30th overall.
v) Reduce the miles over the summer so I've got more energy for climbing. This happened over April/May due to an ankle niggle, but ended up increasing mileage over the summer as my motivation for climbing disappeared in the heat.

Climbing :-
i) Tie on to a rope more - I've got out of the habit of doing routes over the last 4 or 5 years, so don't mind if it's sport or trad but need to reverse that trend. Ideally get back to being reasonably consistent at E4/5 or F7c/+. Couple of days trad and couple of days sport, so better than nowt but a long way from target grades. 3 years of next to no roped climbing has taken its toll on my confidence!
ii) Get involved with a project or two - doesn't need to be long term, I've rarely spent longer than 3 sessions on anything, but having to try hard on stuff really helps my climbing. Couldn't find the time.
iii) Tick a few things off the boulder problem project list. Ideally get back to being reasonably consistent at 7B. Done reasonably well at this, managed more stuff at 7B and above than in the last few years. Flashing Zippy's was pleasing along with a great day up at Back/Howshaw Tor.
iv) Continue exploring some of the more esoteric venues and tucked away gems around the Peak. Only new venues I can think of were Back/Howshaw Tors and Cucklett Delf. Not exactly esoterica!

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#136 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 11:35:41 am
You been tripping Barrows??  :P

I don't understand..? You mean how did I become such a zen Sharma-esque hippy? (this is very much how I view myself obviously) Or that I spend too much time going on/talking about trips (of the climbing variety)? Or neither?

Yes how did you become such a zen Sharma-esque hippy. If you gotta explain it, it ain't funny. Glad you got zen though

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#137 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 11:57:40 am
1. Do the steep project at potato head, and the big link from the trench

Big steep proj done, thrilled with it. Best new route I've done, a real peach I think. Big link didn't try, but managed another new route on the seaward end.

2.  Christine

No cigar. Didn't do any dws, climbing fell by the wayside from June to November due to family stuff.

3.  A hard boulder problem. Devon sent would be the dream. Or something else 7C upwards.

Put some proper time and effort into Devon sent during the Jan lock down but no cigar. Happy enough with the effort I put in really. It's definitely possible for me, just need slightly steelier fingers and a longer period of good cons.

4.  Onsight e6 for first time in years.

No chance

5. If abroad trips happen, then 7c+ onsight somewhere warm and tufa ridden.

No chance


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#138 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 12:33:13 pm
Had a horrible year regarding my stated climbing goals, even though it might have been my best year ever on paper.

Climbing
Climb Attention on vous regard in Roc d'Anglars. Nope. Tried this fairly extensively since J projected a route at the crag and this is basically what I have left to do. No chance though. Managed to link the first boulder problem which is probably the hardest boulder I have ever climbed (I have a hard time getting my sausage fingers to grab on to the sika-on stone on the crux). I never managed to link the entire power-endurance section on top after the rest. The route is quite popular among the small folks, but it felt better when a local 9a+ climber my size told me that he found it hard and it took him ten years of intermittent tries to do it.

Failing that, Bad Attitude maybe. Nope. Had some progress on this before the crag got soaked. Can cruise the first pitch (8a+) climbing it without getting much pump, but the pump hits immediately as soon as I start the boulder problem above the first set of chains.

Climb one of the new ED+/ABO- multipitch routes in Sinsat.
Did not try. Also, my prospective climbing partner for this goal crushed his foot bouldering in Annot.

Hang board
Hang one-armed with 0.5 kg assist (left) and 2 kg assist (right) on my benchmark edge.
WTF, I must have been drunk. This is a serious weight-loss goal. Maybe possible if I took up smoking again. Failure, of course.

I did not do a lot of finger boarding this year. Did some campusing that worked quite well to get my fingers strong enough to do a specific move on Bad Attitude (see above) that I could not do last year.

Life
Visit my parents and my siblings. Driving all the way up if necessary.
We managed to get vaccinated in time so J could get a pass, and book a flight with a airline that didn't cancel on us. Three weeks with my family.

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#139 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 03:13:22 pm
I've never really managed to stay focussed on any goals I've set in the past. I think the few that I was focussed on I ended up with unrelated injuries which prevented success. Anyway. Having moved up to Edinburgh, and now likely to be in Scotland until at least Sept 2022 I should be thinking about adventures up here, which is great as I've hardly scratched the surface.

Other half's job is now permanent, so we're staying in Scotland and hoping to buy a place in the central belt next year  :)

Climb some winter classics.
I'm not that bothered by the grades, I'd just like to have some great days in the mountains. Doing something on Creag Meaghaidh, Lochnagar or Etchachan would be amazing. It might be touch and go this winter depending on restrictions.
I've only had 1 winter day out, but it was a great day and I'm hopeful for this winter to be a good one.

Mountain Rock
So many big routes to do up here. Having been to Lewis this year I'd like to return because we never did the Prozac Link - it was too wet for the mountains on our trip, but adding that to The Big Lick and Stone would be an awesome trip and I have a partner who would be keen and is moving north in a couple of months.
I'd like to get some routes in on the Ben and Shelterstone too.
Not as much as I'd like, but had a great few days on Beinn Eighe and ticked Shibboleth with Duncan, which scratched an itch.

Other Trad
Chemin de Fer at Dumbarton is a must I think. I'd also like to have a look at Wild Country and Dalriada on the Cobbler as well as some of the trad at Dunkeld.
Didn't do a lot of trad, got a few things done at Dunkeld, but wasn't really fit enough for anything I was really keen for. I was working a lot of weekends and struggled for midweek partners this year.

Sport
Marlene at Dunkeld. Had a look this autumn, did the moves but I had no fitness, a good spring goal I think. It would be great to do a few of the routes on this face, it's a lovely bit of rock.
Didn't do enough climbing to be fit enough for Marlene, but got some good sport routes done at Chapel Head, Malham, Weem and Dunkeld all the same. Hopefully the wall will remain open this winter so I can be match fit when the weather warms up.

Other outdoor
We'd love to do another sea kayak trip, probably around Skye this time. I'd also like to take SO for a few overnight walks in the hills.
3 great trips this year. Terrible weather in Knoydart but a good adventure and feel I'm building a good base of skills. Long term prospects look good for continuing this in Scotland. OH now has some winter boots too so we can do some Munros in the colder months.

Life
I've got really lazy this autumn. I've lost a lot of motivation for exercise and have drunk too much (more like too regularly) for most of the year. I'd like to get back into good habits with this, running and fingerboarding regularly as well as doing some more yoga - I had a new user deal at a place last year and after a month I was getting the hang of it and seeing some gains. Sharkathon is my starting point.
Get my book to the point where I can pitch it to agents with some hope of success.
Get funding for an overly ambitious new climbing podcast/book project I've been working on.
It took me a while, but drinking habits headed in the right direction and motivation for exercise was recovered, I'm finishing the year as fit as I've been in a long while despite a few injuries in the autumn.
Book progress has been very slow due to working too many hours and not having a great time with mental health this year, which hasn't left me a lot in reserve for potential knockbacks. I'm hoping that if I can continue on a good trend with other life things this winter I'll be in a better place to make the final push I need.

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#140 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 03:49:05 pm
I'm cheating here having not previously stated any aims, and cheating further by going back to the start of lockdown rather than the calendar year, but as reading others' has made me reflect...it's been a strange period for me in climbing.

On paper it looks great:
First 7C boulders
First 8a sport
First E7 headpunts
FAs of trad routes up to and including a bunch of E5s, sport 7b/+, about 50 new boulder problems up to 7A+

And yet, for spells of the past year my motivation for climbing has been low. I've probably done less in total than any year since I started. I've struggled with periods of fatigue, low energy and low mood, as well as a finger injury. I certainly haven't got any stronger or fitter.

In a way the successes seem like a consequence of caring less, or having come to terms with some limiting self-narratives. Also probably focusing energy by not just going climbing at every opportunity.

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#141 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 05:03:24 pm
It appears 2021 was aimless for me. That said I managed to match my previous best sport onsight (7b) in Spain (Gelida) in November despite being on the recovery from a mild dose of covid, and very narrowly missing a second. Relatively injury free, and realised that I wasn't properly fuelling my efforts/recovery so all in pretty satisfied with my aimless year. Oh, did my second E6 too, after some working sessions and a couple of quality mountain E4s I'd been eyeing up for a while (Freebird on Beinn Bhuird, Steeple on the Shelterstone). 

Mainly just nice being a bit less depressed and getting on with life a bit better...

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#142 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 05:07:37 pm

 1. Finish of the Boulder guide for Strathnairn{Inverness}
Done all the master text, taking/collecting pics for the final edit.


What areas do you still need to do? Might have some extra free time next year to trip about and do some obscure bouldering, take photos etc. Might teach myslef how to do some self timer type shots with a good camera on a tripod... Let me google to see if I can with my Oly E5iii

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#143 Re: Aims for 2021
December 24, 2021, 09:48:45 pm
What with Covid, a long hard pregnancy for my wife and the birth of our daughter, not to mention all the usual stuff with work and family, the amount of green and amber below feels pretty good! You'll notice a theme though, as the year was dominated by one boulder problem really.

Training
- Stick to my training plan; really keen to stick to the plan, address my weaknesses and keep making gains. - have barely missed a session all year, even in the week after my daughter was born still managed to do 30 mins on the fingerboard a couple of times! In fact perhaps one of the biggest successes I've had with parenthood so far has been feeling like I'm managing to fit everything in.
- Stretch / yoga every day - got a bit lazy with this over summer but back on it now.

Climbing
- Film things more; used to he dead keen on filming things, but for some reason have lost the love in the last couple of years. Would be good to start up again. - yep all on my phone but it's something
- Do a car camping mini-trip; I'm a bit of a home bird, I like my creature comforts, but I have a car which would be fine to sleep in and doing so would both help me get away more easily and take me out of my comfort zone. Been meaning to do this for years, just need to do it! - nope, Covid, pregnancy, baby, etc.
- Do a little more projecting; since June I haven't finished a single boulder problem that has taken more than a session. Had a handful of sessions on things that will take longer but really without much conviction or consistency. Just haven't been in the mood, but would like to get going again. - uuuurrrgggghhhh, I'll save the Ben's Groove Sit write up for the "Best of 2021" thread, but all I can bring myself to say here is at least I can tick this goal!
- 30 sport routes, any grade; did my first routes this year, and then only a handful. Keen to just build volume and experience this year, don't fancy sinking lots of time into something hard; something to do over Summer when it's too hot for bouldering. - 35 done in the end, across the grades but mostly in the 7s. Loved it. Already psyched for next season.
- Go to Switzerland; hopefully will help with at least one of the above. - nope, Covid, pregnancy, baby, etc.
- Spend a bit more time on the moors; loads of Yorkshire moorland crags I've not even been to, including Rylstone, Hellifield, Rolling Gate, Roova, etc. Knocking a couple of those off the list would be good. - went sport climbing instead. Every time I go to Kilnsey I think I should pay a visit to Rylstone at some point but it hasn't happened yet. Closest I came was a visit to Howshaw Tor on a warm day in April; had an okay day but the fact I just sport climbed for 3 months thereafter perhaps says it all!

Grade chasing
- At least one 8A; done at least one the last four years in a row. Would be good to make it five. - unbelievably close; got to the end of Matador Low at Attermire and just needed to match, but slipped off. So taking half a tick.
- 10 or more 7C+ and up; current PB for a year is 9. Was hoping for 15 last year. Hopefully this is achievable. Most of the ones I want to do aren't local, which will mean I need to be more efficient/do them quicker. - did 3 in pretty short order, so given I spent less time bouldering this year than any other before (much of which was spent on Ben's) that's not too bad, especially as with the pregnancy I couldn't justify travelling to the stuff in the Lakes etc. that I was most keen for. Just not actually all that psyched for grit either unfortunately. Next year need to make better use of the Eastern lime I think. I did also do Ben's from 3 moves in, which I reckon easily counts as 7C+ in itself, 9 or 10 times  ::)
- Sport 7c+; backup goal in case the below doesn't happen... - did This is the Sea at Chee Dale Cornice 3rd go. It's a boulder problem on a rope but taking it
- Sport 8a; just because I'm enjoying the sport so much atm and this is surely plausible at least. Fitness is definitely improving. - did Subculture at Kilnsey. This was the only thing I projected (8 sessions) other than Ben's so it was great to get it done. Loved the Kilnsey scene over summer too.


Life
- Get married; rollover from last year, because Covid. - great day, despite the restrictions. Even then managed to get in a reception a few months later.
- Get out of my own head; really need to turn negative self-talk into positive, as the former has definitely held me back recently, and on occasions stops me even leaving the house. - yep, big improvement on last year


Something else I didn't write down but always have in the back of my mind is trying to get >100 sessions on rock each calendar year. I'm on 94 as of today. Hopefully get one or two more in but even if not that feels like a good win all things considered. Sank 20 of those into Ben's though..was it worth it? Ummm....

scragrock

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#144 Re: Aims for 2021
December 26, 2021, 01:05:48 pm

 1. Finish of the Boulder guide for Strathnairn{Inverness}
Done all the master text, taking/collecting pics for the final edit.


What areas do you still need to do? Might have some extra free time next year to trip about and do some obscure bouldering, take photos etc. Might teach myslef how to do some self timer type shots with a good camera on a tripod... Let me google to see if I can with my Oly E5iii

It's actually less about the areas and more that i am trying to get pics from first ascensionists, either from back in the day or getting the Auld Guard out and on their own problems for better quality pics today.
As you can imagine this is not at all straightforward.

Do you or have you climbed a lot in Strathnairn?

Fultonius

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#145 Re: Aims for 2021
December 26, 2021, 02:23:26 pm

Do you or have you climbed a lot in Strathnairn?

Not a great lot, and certainly no FAs. Glasgow based but planning on getting out in the spring to find/work some projects in the 7B-7C range.

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#146 Re: Aims for 2021
December 26, 2021, 04:15:43 pm
End of year sort out feeling profoundly unfit and weak!

Sport Climbing
1) Climb an 8b+. Probably The Great Escape at Malham. Pleased to do this in the autumn.
2) A couple of 8bs. Perhaps the Oak and something at Kilnsey (Stolen?). Perhaps Full Tilt if I get psyched on that style. Did the Oak but that was the only 8b. Full Tilt would have been a decent contender but I wasn;t very inspred by it.
3) At least one of the remaining two left in the Yorkshire Triple Crown. When Urgent dries out, actually get on it instead of watching everyone else do it. Did Urgent so this is a tick. Took a bit of graft but got there in the end.
4) Depending how the above goes, get stuck into an 8c in the autumn. Maybe Bat's and Dogs, which I am very psyched for, but also keen for Cry Freedom (concerned by lanky top move) and Something for Nothing (looks nails). The almost immediate end to the season stopped his really getting going, but my motivation for projecting was gone by then anyway. Had a quick session on Bats and Dogs but the top of CF never dried.

Bouldering

1) Grit 7C/7C+. I haven't climbed one for nearly two years now but have had sessions recently on Flatworld Sit and Walk on By. Either of these would be great. No, but I did manage my first 7C in a few years (limestone) and a few grit 7B+s. Felt like more from lack of trying than lack of ability.
2) do more bouldering not on grit, ie Lakes or Wales. I always love it when I go. Hopefully living a bit closer will help with this.
been to the Lakes bouldering a few times after buying the guide and have enjoyed it. Keen for more.
Trad

1) Do some. Did more trad this year than probably the last 5. Loved it.
2) Climb a long pumpy E5. I fell off Right Wall years ago so the time may be right for the rematch.
Did quite a few E5s including Right Wall which I was pleased with.

Training

1) Bodyweight hang on both arms on bottom middle edge. Nope. Fingerboarding wasn't as consistent this year, distracted by moving house and a decent summer.
2) +40kg 20mm two arm hang. Pretty sure I managed this for about 5 seconds, but not the full 7 seconds. I don't do two arm sessions very often as I can't be bothered moving the weights around!
3) don't neglect antagonist work, stretching and general conditioning. Been pretty consistent on this all year bar a few months in the summer. Slight shoulder injury has been rehabbed fairly well, need to fix slight knee injury in the new year.

Life
1) Move back up north. Partially out of my hands due to girlfriends job but will have a plan in April. Never intended to live in Leicester the whole year but pandemic intervened! Back in the north. Its good to be back.
2) connected to above; buy house. The plus side of the pandemic has been living with girlfriend and not killing each other (so far). Moved in a month ago. Feel like the process took years off my life but really like the house.
3) Depending on status of 2, get dog. Well keen for a rescue so recommendations welcomed! Rollover to next year!
4) consider career change. At the moment I don't want to do my current job forever (although it is perfectly serviceable) but don't know what else to do either. Haven't had the brainspace to think it through this year but once moved and a bit more stable I would like to think this over. Binned job off and got a funded PhD which is the plan for the next 3 years.

A good amount of green on there which I'm pleased with. Hoping to be a bit more structured with training next year so looking forward to the 2022 thread!


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#147 Re: Aims for 2021
December 26, 2021, 04:54:53 pm
I didn’t post aims as I had Covid at the start of the year and for the first couple of months was unsure about what kind of recovery I was going to make. Here is the draft, a mixed bag.



1. Make a proper effort sport climbing (a classic 7b+)

Became a semi-regular at the Cheedale Cornice! (A new crag, see 3.). Didn’t climb any 7b+s.


2.  Get on a classic seacliff E5.

Shockingly tried nothing harder than E2. Didn’t make many opportunities and had dire conditions and the wrong partner on the couple of days I might have been fit enough for my annual E4.


3. Climb at five places new to me.

16 new crags! From Sally-in-the-Woods to Raven Tor via the Nudey Cliff, Craig Ddu, Wilton One, Llanymynech Quarry, and Culver Cove. Highlight of the year doing this and, by extension, climbing with some new people too.


4. Climb on Cloggy, Gogarth, and a Scottish Island.

Scafell Crag and Buachaille Etive Mor (both also new to me, see 3.) made more than good substitutes.


5. Do something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free (tbc) which will probably be in on one of the above rather than in Switzerland alas.

Shibboleth with Wil was close.


6. Move out of London

House sale fell through about 10 days before we were due to complete. Rest of the family now less keen and the lad is very settled in a new school so this is looking unlikely in the medium term.


7. Decide on what to do in my otium (which might well be climbing).

Zero chance of full-time work. Have done some volunteer work. Aiming to do fewer but longer trips. Good acceptance from all the relevant parties.


8. Enjoy life

Like most people I’ve had a number of health and life challenges this year but have rolled with the punches most of the time. Stopping work has been a big help, and I’ve mostly avoided the risk of transferring too much of my identity on to being a climber. I’ve appreciated the times when I have managed to get out all the more. The post-Covid fatigue resolved but my lungs are not 100%. Best year in decades for not being injured. Overall, a big improvement on 2019 and 2020.

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#148 Re: Aims for 2021
December 26, 2021, 05:25:15 pm
1) An LPT 8a - maybe Statement but we'll see what catches my eye.
Would be green if effort counted. Gave Mussel Beach a really good go and got close (fell off the headwall three times in one session) but my climbing never really clicked this year.

2) A Malham/Kilnsey 8a - recommendations welcome.
Barely climbed in Yorkshire. Did do a (soft) 8a at Devil's Gorge though.

3) First 7C - essentially, finish off Rock Atrocity which I got to the last move of just before the most recent Welsh lockdown.
In a rare run of form earlier in the season I got RA done and two other 7Cs too.

4) Climb in Europe - if I don't achieve this, something has gone horribly wrong with 2021.
Great Leonidio trio in November.

Not the best year ever, but not dreadful either. Hoping for more in 2022 though.

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#149 Re: Aims for 2021
December 27, 2021, 10:15:51 am
Aims for 2021...

I was in a really dark place at the beginning of last year and so couldn’t really fathom what my aims really were, beyond hoping that I wouldn’t still feel how I did back then.

The main ways I kept focussing on the future were attending counselling and eventually medication. These helped me to begin to accept myself the good bits, the bad bits (often those are the same bits) in doing so I was able to see what made me happy. Often times it was best to subdue my obsessive ambitious side and go with the flow with what my friends were keen for. But in accepting that I am obsessive and ambitious, sometimes when there was something significant I wanted to do I would allow myself to go off any put time into those things. The key change being I also accepted my decision to do so regardless of outcome. Being highly motivated for and enjoying these things made it easier to distance myself from the outcome.

I also started to delve deeper into training. I love being physically active and tired. But I tried to keep it effective and efficient. I have found training to be helpful for me as it can be quite quick. And whereas in previous times I would try and get to a crag for a quick session then have a poor session, leave later than I should of to then arrive late for whatever thing I had on which would make me feel shit about myself. I often just do a quick bit of training.

I was training with thoughts of trying to get supercool done which I did so a tick there[/

My 2020 climbing aims also included getting back on some E6s... and I managed to insight two and flash another which I am very happy about.

The final way I kept focusing on the future was getting everything in order to buy a house. Which I managed, first one I looked at at the end of March. Then fortunately it took 6 months to go through giving me a free summer to climb. Have been grafting hard on it around working and it is coming along nicely. Going to be ace once it’s done. I find this stuff so satisfying.

all in all I feel much better than I did at the beginning of the year and have even managed to tick quite a few goals. My own personal stuff is still a work in progress but I definitely feel on the right track. Wishing everyone a happy 2022   :)

 

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