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Aims for 2021 (Read 29848 times)

36chambers

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#100 Re: Aims for 2021
June 29, 2021, 10:39:59 am
Just realised we're effectively half way through

I'm just going with my usual format

5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list [Fluid dynamics stand, Like a hurricane]
5 sessions trying 8B/s [tick: pretty sure I've played around on High Fiddy on five occasions, spending lockdown on the chevin it was bound to happen, no RPs yet mind]
5 new UK crags [Giggleswick North]
5 days roped climbing [tick! Did my first sport route in 5 years and have spent the past 2 months tied in, 10+ sessions]
5 eights [nope, not sure I've tried any apart from HF]
5 climbing trips (who knows how this will pan out) [nothing yet]
5 FA’s [two, details to follow eventually]
5 training room PB’s [not sure I even have any benchmarks to go off anymore... But I have finally bought an olympic barbell, and I'm on the lookout for a squat rack, so these all might end up being powerlifting/olympic weightlifting goals, of which I have many. RIP climbing goals]
5 highballs [Andy's Route, Ron's Reach(?), hopefully replace these with meatier ones later]
5 board projects [nope, don't even have any]
5 of the Brimham Dirty Dozen [maybe when it cools a little, will drop you a message TTT :)]

Allez

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#101 Re: Aims for 2021
July 01, 2021, 09:06:45 am
Halfway! What a weird six months. Getting my excuses in...my wife is now six months pregnant, and it's not been an easy pregnancy, as she was practically bed-bound for a long period in February, and then only gradually improving from there (although much better now). Combined with lockdown, and my still working from home full time, it's been pretty tough. 

Training
- Stick to my training plan; really keen to stick to the plan, address my weaknesses and keep making gains. - yep tick, lockdown helped, felt strong on the boulders and more resilient to injury (touch wood). Also helped keep me sane during some dark winter months.
- Stretch / yoga every day - hmm, a couple of months ago this would be green, but I've been slack lately

Climbing
- Film things more; used to he dead keen on filming things, but for some reason have lost the love in the last couple of years. Would be good to start up again. - filmed lots on the boulders through to April. Just on my phone, but good to do.
- Do a car camping mini-trip; I'm a bit of a home bird, I like my creature comforts, but I have a car which would be fine to sleep in and doing so would both help me get away more easily and take me out of my comfort zone. Been meaning to do this for years, just need to do it! - nope
- Do a little more projecting; since June I haven't finished a single boulder problem that has taken more than a session. Had a handful of sessions on things that will take longer but really without much conviction or consistency. Just haven't been in the mood, but would like to get going again. - Sunk pretty much my entire grit/bouldering season into one project, Ben's Groove Sit at Caley, so yeah at least I can tick this goal! Have also done a couple of others that took more than a session.
- 30 sport routes, any grade; did my first routes this year, and then only a handful. Keen to just build volume and experience this year, don't fancy sinking lots of time into something hard; something to do over Summer when it's too hot for bouldering. - Nearly there! 25 done so far, from 6b to 7c, mostly in the 7s and including my first two 7cs, over about 18 sessions. Mostly at Kilnsey. Longest I've spent on anything is 3 sessions, and tbh I'm finding myself having to actively resist trying something harder!
- Go to Switzerland; hopefully will help with at least one of the above. - nope, won't happen this year
- Spend a bit more time on the moors; loads of Yorkshire moorland crags I've not even been to, including Rylstone, Hellifield, Rolling Gate, Roova, etc. Knocking a couple of those off the list would be good. - went sport climbing instead. Every time I go to Kilnsey I think I should pay a visit to Rylstone at some point but it hasn't happened yet.

Grade chasing
- At least one 8A; done at least one the last four years in a row. Would be good to make it five. - not yet. Staying optimistic. Have a couple of local ones lined up which I'm hopeful of doing, including Ben's... ;)
- 10 or more 7C+ and up; current PB for a year is 9. Was hoping for 15 last year. Hopefully this is achievable. Most of the ones I want to do aren't local, which will mean I need to be more efficient/do them quicker. - did one in three very short sessions, unfortunately lockdown prevented travel to most of the problems I wanted to do / had lined up, then looking after Emma similarly prevented any travel, Ben's took up all my time when I could get out, and I didn't quite get it over the line, and I've then gone sport climbing. There's still time but it's not looking good.


Life
- Get married; rollover from last year, because Covid. - great day
- Get out of my own head; really need to turn negative self-talk into positive, as the former has definitely held me back recently, and on occasions stops me even leaving the house. - yep, big improvement on last year

Going to add:

- Sport 7c+; backup goal in case the below doesn't happen...
- Sport 8a; just because I'm enjoying the sport so much atm and this is surely plausible at least.  Fitness is definitely improving.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2021, 09:14:50 am by Bradders »

tommytwotone

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#102 Re: Aims for 2021
July 01, 2021, 11:54:39 am
Ha ha - just realised I never contributed to the original thread.

Mine's the same as last year - a new (to me) 7a, outdoors somewhere.

Mid-year update is that I've done a couple of "V6" problems, but sadly indoors, and probably slightly holiday grade-y.

Did what I think / guess / assume might be 6c (Leaper Traverse Low at Shipley), but the approved beta is far from clear.

Otherwise fitness, diet, weight and booze consumption are all terrible. As an office-based IT worker my life is even more sedentary now than it was pre-COVID and it's my 43rd birthday in a couple of weeks.

Can't think why I haven't ticked that Font 7a.

Still keen for those Brimham offwidths though Nate...at least with the extra timber I won't fall out of the cracks!

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#103 Re: Aims for 2021
July 01, 2021, 11:58:48 am
Hidden amongst all the YouTube friendly bs on the wide boys channel is this nice vid 



Jamming Gloves?!

Back around....

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#104 Re: Aims for 2021
July 01, 2021, 01:45:22 pm
Not as red as I thought it might be when I first set the aims!

Been a bit of lean few years as I've struggled to find a good balance between climbing and running, so ended up doing neither especially well. Hoping this might help me focus a bit, one way or another.

Running :-
i) Sub 3-hour marathon - got a race lined up in March with a "Covid-safe plan", although whether it happens is anyone's guess. If it doesn't happen, enjoy the process of following a structured plan and getting some quality training in. Unsurprisingly the race didn't happen and I couldn't face a marathon time trial, but I did enjoy the process of having a plan and was probably as running fit as I've ever been (for the roads at least).
ii) Build on the aerobic base from (i) and try for a PB at one of the shorter distances - sub-17 for 5k, sub 35:30 for 10k. Ran a 27:39 5 mile as part of a virtual relay event, which was a massive PB. Also had a 17:03 5k split as part of the same race, so in no doubt that I could have gone sub-17 for 5k and sub-35 for 10k if that's what I'd been racing on the day.
iii) Get back to local fell races over the summer - a few V40 prizes would be nice. First race for 15ish months was last week - 10th and 2nd V40. Another one this weekend and then having a break for some training and to support a BG.
iv) Top-5 V40 team at the British Fell Relays in October - 7th in 2019 and 2 mins off top-5, so definitely achievable.
v) Reduce the miles over the summer so I've got more energy for climbing. This happened over April/May due to an ankle niggle, but I've ended up increasing again since to try and get back the lost fitness from 2 months of next to nothing.

Climbing :-
i) Tie on to a rope more - I've got out of the habit of doing routes over the last 4 or 5 years, so don't mind if it's sport or trad but need to reverse that trend. Ideally get back to being reasonably consistent at E4/5 or F7c/+. Couple of days trad and couple of days sport, so better than nowt but a long way from target grades. 3 years of next to no roped climbing has taken its toll on my confidence!
ii) Get involved with a project or two - doesn't need to be long term, I've rarely spent longer than 3 sessions on anything, but having to try hard on stuff really helps my climbing. Not yet.
iii) Tick a few things off the boulder problem project list. Ideally get back to being reasonably consistent at 7B. Done reasonably well at this, managed more stuff at 7B and above than in the last few years. Flashing Zippy's was pleasing along with a great day up at Back/Howshaw Tor.
iv) Continue exploring some of the more esoteric venues and tucked away gems around the Peak. Only new venues I can think of were Back/Howshaw Tors and Cucklett Delf. Not exactly esoterica!

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#105 Re: Aims for 2021
July 01, 2021, 04:27:45 pm
Halfway! What a weird six months. Getting my excuses in...my wife is now six months pregnant, and it's not been an easy pregnancy, as she was practically bed-bound for a long period in February, and then only gradually improving from there (although much better now). Combined with lockdown, and my still working from home full time, it's been pretty tough. 

Training
- Stick to my training plan; really keen to stick to the plan, address my weaknesses and keep making gains. - yep tick, lockdown helped, felt strong on the boulders and more resilient to injury (touch wood). Also helped keep me sane during some dark winter months.
- Stretch / yoga every day - hmm, a couple of months ago this would be green, but I've been slack lately

Climbing
- Film things more; used to he dead keen on filming things, but for some reason have lost the love in the last couple of years. Would be good to start up again. - filmed lots on the boulders through to April. Just on my phone, but good to do.
- Do a car camping mini-trip; I'm a bit of a home bird, I like my creature comforts, but I have a car which would be fine to sleep in and doing so would both help me get away more easily and take me out of my comfort zone. Been meaning to do this for years, just need to do it! - nope
- Do a little more projecting; since June I haven't finished a single boulder problem that has taken more than a session. Had a handful of sessions on things that will take longer but really without much conviction or consistency. Just haven't been in the mood, but would like to get going again. - Sunk pretty much my entire grit/bouldering season into one project, Ben's Groove Sit at Caley, so yeah at least I can tick this goal! Have also done a couple of others that took more than a session.
- 30 sport routes, any grade; did my first routes this year, and then only a handful. Keen to just build volume and experience this year, don't fancy sinking lots of time into something hard; something to do over Summer when it's too hot for bouldering. - Nearly there! 25 done so far, from 6b to 7c, mostly in the 7s and including my first two 7cs, over about 18 sessions. Mostly at Kilnsey. Longest I've spent on anything is 3 sessions, and tbh I'm finding myself having to actively resist trying something harder!
- Go to Switzerland; hopefully will help with at least one of the above. - nope, won't happen this year
- Spend a bit more time on the moors; loads of Yorkshire moorland crags I've not even been to, including Rylstone, Hellifield, Rolling Gate, Roova, etc. Knocking a couple of those off the list would be good. - went sport climbing instead. Every time I go to Kilnsey I think I should pay a visit to Rylstone at some point but it hasn't happened yet.

Grade chasing
- At least one 8A; done at least one the last four years in a row. Would be good to make it five. - not yet. Staying optimistic. Have a couple of local ones lined up which I'm hopeful of doing, including Ben's... ;)
- 10 or more 7C+ and up; current PB for a year is 9. Was hoping for 15 last year. Hopefully this is achievable. Most of the ones I want to do aren't local, which will mean I need to be more efficient/do them quicker. - did one in three very short sessions, unfortunately lockdown prevented travel to most of the problems I wanted to do / had lined up, then looking after Emma similarly prevented any travel, Ben's took up all my time when I could get out, and I didn't quite get it over the line, and I've then gone sport climbing. There's still time but it's not looking good.


Life
- Get married; rollover from last year, because Covid. - great day
- Get out of my own head; really need to turn negative self-talk into positive, as the former has definitely held me back recently, and on occasions stops me even leaving the house. - yep, big improvement on last year

Going to add:

- Sport 7c+; backup goal in case the below doesn't happen...
- Sport 8a; just because I'm enjoying the sport so much atm and this is surely plausible at least.  Fitness is definitely improving.

It's not been long since I was asking for lime recommendations myself, but I can think of a few low in the grade 7C+'s now that would help get that number up prior to grit season:

Hard call at earth quarry - logical eliminate (missing the back arete) of midnight caller, which would be a nice consolation prize.
Ribtickler at Goyden - had a session on this yesterday and the moves are ok it will just take a fresher day to link from the sit.
Massive roof at secret location near Worksop

I've not finished any of these yet but have only had 1 session on each.

On grit, I feel like I can eventually trick my way up something i'm not strong enough for over many sessions of refinement. On lime, it seems to me like all the refinement is done after a couple of sessions and then it's a case of being strong enough or not. May be different for others, but I'm quite enjoying this about lime, it makes it easier to move on and cut my losses!

 

Bradders

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#106 Re: Aims for 2021
July 01, 2021, 06:27:46 pm
It's not been long since I was asking for lime recommendations myself, but I can think of a few low in the grade 7C+'s now that would help get that number up prior to grit season:

Hard call at earth quarry - logical eliminate (missing the back arete) of midnight caller, which would be a nice consolation prize.
Ribtickler at Goyden - had a session on this yesterday and the moves are ok it will just take a fresher day to link from the sit.
Massive roof at secret location near Worksop

Thanks for the thought. I actually had 6 sessions on Ribtickler in June 2018 and didn't do it. Been back once or twice since with no joy. Find it really hard and certainly not low in the grade! Also, I've done it from a stand two moves in at 7C, so kind of hard to be arsed with going back for two extra moves and a +!!

Is the massive roof Source of Secrets? Very keen for it if so, not checked it out yet. Would have to drag myself away from the ropes first though.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2021, 06:32:58 pm by Bradders »

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#107 Re: Aims for 2021
July 01, 2021, 08:11:25 pm
It's not been long since I was asking for lime recommendations myself, but I can think of a few low in the grade 7C+'s now that would help get that number up prior to grit season:

Hard call at earth quarry - logical eliminate (missing the back arete) of midnight caller, which would be a nice consolation prize.
Ribtickler at Goyden - had a session on this yesterday and the moves are ok it will just take a fresher day to link from the sit.
Massive roof at secret location near Worksop

Thanks for the thought. I actually had 6 sessions on Ribtickler in June 2018 and didn't do it. Been back once or twice since with no joy. Find it really hard and certainly not low in the grade! Also, I've done it from a stand two moves in at 7C, so kind of hard to be arsed with going back for two extra moves and a +!!

Is the massive roof Source of Secrets? Very keen for it if so, not checked it out yet. Would have to drag myself away from the ropes first though.

Perhaps I shouldn't get too ahead of myself on ribtickler then if it's hard to put together! I did find a sneaky toe hook though which I prefer to the heel.

Correct on the roof.

There's another couple of 7c+ roof problems which look good at lound hill but I've not been yet.

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#108 Re: Aims for 2021
July 01, 2021, 09:27:45 pm
Maybe you're just stronger/better than me!

The toe hook works well for taller people, very stretched out for me, whilst the heel hook is too bunched! Nightmare.

Yeah I like the look of the Lound Hill stuff too but again never been.

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#109 Re: Aims for 2021
July 02, 2021, 11:22:26 am
I didn't publish an Aims for 2021 as I had Covid at the time and didn't have much idea what my longer term outlook was. The sketch version went:

1. Move out of London

2. Decide on what to do in my Otium. Which might well be mostly climbing.

3. Make a proper effort sport climbing (put time into a good 7b+)

4. Try a classic E5.

5. Climb at five places new to me.

6. Climb on Cloggy, Gogarth, and a Scottish Island.

7. Do a UK version of something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free.

8. Enjoy life


So far, crushed number 5 and making a good go of 8. Shibboleth is a decent candidate for 7. Making progress on 1, 2, and 3. Numbers 4. and 6. seem likely to be the hardest.


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#110 Re: Aims for 2021
July 02, 2021, 11:59:07 am
I would suggest combining 2, 5, 6 7 and 8 by going to Pabbay and doing Prophesy of Drowning. Shibboleth is a nice way to break the journey.

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#111 Re: Aims for 2021
July 02, 2021, 07:47:12 pm
Posting on two channels means twice as much peer pressure to hold me to account, right?

2020 was always going to have been a bit difficult to prioritise climbing in - my second child was born at the end of 2019 - but having trained moderately rigourously over lockdown I had a decent second half of the year bouldering that I want to continue into 2021, and having not really focused on harder sport for a few years (2020 as above, and in 2019 my main focus was trad so when I sport climbed it was onsights at 7a-b rather than redpointing anything) I'd like to push back to the upper end of the 7s again. Lockdown #3 obviously complicates things but you gotta dream, right?

Arbitrary training goals:
- 1.5-x-5 solidly on the campus board, then 1-x-5
During the winter training block I was doing pretty well here, 1.5-3-5 and 1.5-4-5 going ok and hit 1-4-5 a couple of times too
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- L sit to Tuck Planche on the paralettes as a marker point for having worked on a weakness
I think this one got there, although possibly the slightly scrappy end. Need to video it again some point
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- pull-ups 5x5 @95kg, and actually do some stuff on offsets
92kg I think
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- some progress on a front lever
Didn’t really try
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Climbing goals:

- make use of continued working from home and hopefully greater tolerance of more remote working in future to do some longer hybrid climb/work trips (not ridiculously long, but extending beyond the usual 2 week mark)
When I wrote this I had in mind a month or so in June, maybe Frankenjura - instead 3 weeks in the dales/Lakes which was still pretty good
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- make the June-June 12 months my best period of bouldering yet
Lockdown running all the way to end March threw roadblocks in the way of this. In terms of 8a.nu points (I know, I know - but I find they correlate reasonably well to good/bad years) I nearly got there, and possibly still could by late summer (before last year’s big September trip starts to fall away).

By another metric, it’s actually been pretty solid already, in that I’ve done 3 7A+s in different areas, two of which are fairly well established and not esoteric (Picnic Sarcastic, Monty Pythons Direct sitter, Drifter sitter), come fairly close on another (Hyperspace at Virtual Crag) and had solid goes on a 7B (Picnic Sarcastic sitter). Also had a few promising sessions on some other local ones.
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- climb route 7c/+ again
With the demise of the hypothetical routes trip in June, this one is looking in trouble. No real plans on the horizon to make this happen as yet
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- work on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder local things to try” tick lists
Nice non specific goal, so an easy one.
0%-10% on Why and 13%-17% on Harder

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- nail at least one of my Portland dws projects, try mark of the beast, and do some more stuff at Swanage and in south Devon.
Seasons only just kicked off, too soon to say.

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#112 Re: Aims for 2021
July 03, 2021, 11:09:40 am
Done ok in 2021 so far, Built my home wall and sent a 7yr long project.

A few things to tick off the year...
 
 1. Finish of the Boulder guide for Strathnairn{Inverness}
 2. F.As of the Gruffulo and The man who would be King up in Rooftown
 3. Find cure for baldness and being a C**t
 4. F.A of Tacht Troosers {my last line in Barry Valley and another long term project}
 5. Get strong/good enough to eventually send Susurrus at Brin.
 6. Try Not to add to my ever increasing list of injuries and deal with chronic ailments better.
 7. Schedule Teams meeting with God re decision making process for growing old and dying{ANY NEED? :furious:}
 8. Persuade UKB folks that "Bring out your dabs" is a little bit judgey..... :worms:.Is it though?....But is it?....No seriously, Is it?

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#113 Re: Aims for 2021
July 03, 2021, 11:48:24 am
Boulder 8A
25 7Cs and above

No sure if this will be unrealistic or not. But hopefully I can make it happen.

Managed 29 7Cs so far, been working towards 50 for some time now though... Form has really slowed down recently as I struggle with the summer conditions (boohoo) but hoping to keep stumbling through them.

Managed 1 8A which is an eliminate version of a 7C+ I'd previously done, been close on 2 other 8As but then summer struck, if I can regain form will try them again after the summer.

duncan

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#114 Re: Aims for 2021
July 03, 2021, 12:01:24 pm
I would suggest combining 2, 5, 6 7 and 8 by going to Pabbay and doing Prophesy of Drowning. Shibboleth is a nice way to break the journey.

Tell me about it!

Unfortunately, swanning off for a week to somewhere with no phone reception whilst trying to complete a house sale, find somewhere else to live, and a school for the lad means it's an option this summer unless something happens remarkably quickly.

If things settle down I'd like to get to an island accessible by timetabled ferry and with phone signal in September.

Did Shibboleth with Will in May. It certainly felt long and hard and was a great experience.

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#115 Re: Aims for 2021
July 03, 2021, 09:08:53 pm
Pabbay has perfectly good phone signal, just not everywhere - from the summit you can see the antennas above Castlebay. I quite like it, you can put aside a half hour at lunch to do your business, update the forecast then turn your phone off for 23 hrs. Coverage is at least as good and probably better than (at least from the crag) on islands like Arran, Harris or Lewis.

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#116 Re: Aims for 2021
July 03, 2021, 11:14:58 pm
Pabbay has perfectly good phone signal, just not everywhere - from the summit you can see the antennas above Castlebay. I quite like it, you can put aside a half hour at lunch to do your business, update the forecast then turn your phone off for 23 hrs. Coverage is at least as good and probably better than (at least from the crag) on islands like Arran, Harris or Lewis.

I was only able to get phone reception 1 day out of 6 from the summit. I think it depends in the atmospheric conditions at the time. If I were in the midst of a house purchase I certainly wouldn't be heading there!

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#117 Re: Aims for 2021
July 06, 2021, 09:55:33 am
Pabbay has perfectly good phone signal, just not everywhere - from the summit you can see the antennas above Castlebay. I quite like it, you can put aside a half hour at lunch to do your business, update the forecast then turn your phone off for 23 hrs. Coverage is at least as good and probably better than (at least from the crag) on islands like Arran, Harris or Lewis.

I was only able to get phone reception 1 day out of 6 from the summit. I think it depends in the atmospheric conditions at the time. If I were in the midst of a house purchase I certainly wouldn't be heading there!

Pabbay can wait this year (though I've said that for too many years...  :(). I take your point about phone coverage also being patchy on Lewis and Harris but I'd have thought it would be possible to move to find a signal if something critical was happening. I've only visited Lewis once, aged 16 and not climbing, but the place made quite an impact and I'd love to go back. This discussion has encouraged planning so I might finally get there again this September.

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#118 Re: Aims for 2021
July 06, 2021, 10:45:10 am
Climb some winter classics.
I'm not that bothered by the grades, I'd just like to have some great days in the mountains. Doing something on Creag Meaghaidh, Lochnagar or Etchachan would be amazing. It might be touch and go this winter depending on restrictions.
Not a chance on this. I bought new axes and crampons in anticipation, then restrictions meant I had to stay in Edinburgh until April.

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Mountain Rock
So many big routes to do up here. Having been to Lewis this year I'd like to return because we never did the Prozac Link - it was too wet for the mountains on our trip, but adding that to The Big Lick and Stone would be an awesome trip and I have a partner who would be keen and is moving north in a couple of months.
I'd like to get some routes in on the Ben and Shelterstone too.
Shibboleth done, a few other things in the planning.

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Other Trad
Chemin de Fer at Dumbarton is a must I think. I'd also like to have a look at Wild Country and Dalriada on the Cobbler as well as some fo the trad at Dunkeld.
Not had a chance to visit yet

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Sport
Marlene at Dunkeld. Had a look this autumn, did the moves but I had no fitness, a good spring goal I think. It would be great to do a few of the routes on this face, it's a lovely bit of rock.
Had a visit and a play on Marlene (or Marlina?) again. Have got a bit more mileage since and ticked some 7bs so feeling fit for this if I can get midweek partners up there.

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Other outdoor
We'd love to do another sea kayak trip, probably around Skye this time. I'd also like to take SO for a few overnight walks in the hills.
Great trip to Skye with 4 days of paddling around the coast, including a memorable day paddling from Elgol to Loch Coruisk then portaging the boats into the loch and paddling the length of it under the Dubh Ridge. Also grabbed a day at Montrose and have a trip around Knoydart booked in for end of September.


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Life
I've got really lazy this autumn. I've lost a lot of motivation for exercise and have drunk too much (more like too regularly) for most of the year. I'd like to get back into good habits with this, running and fingerboarding regularly as well as doing some more yoga - I had a new user deal at a place last year and after a month I was getting the hang of it and seeing some gains. Sharkathon is my starting point.
Get my book to the point where I can pitch it to agents with some hope of success.
Get funding for an overly ambitious new climbing podcast/book project I've been working on.
Exercise habits are a lot better, drinking ones improved. I haven't done any more yoga but have kept very active in the last few months and cycled a lot. Book progress is slow and funding for the new project is proving hard, unfortunately.

SA Chris

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#119 Re: Aims for 2021
July 06, 2021, 11:17:08 am

I'm not that bothered by the grades, I'd just like to have some great days in the mountains. Doing something on Creag Meaghaidh, Lochnagar or Etchachan would be amazing. It might be touch and go this winter depending on restrictions.


I've done Talisman, Dagger and Scabbard, but still not done Djabangi, so shout if you need a partner, love to get up there again. Likewise Dubh Loch.
« Last Edit: July 06, 2021, 11:31:07 am by SA Chris »

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#120 Re: Aims for 2021
July 06, 2021, 11:19:56 am
6 month update!

Climbing

Climb Mercy Street (8c) at Schleierwasserfall.
Didn't really try in the end. Put my clips up early in the year but never went back.
Climb another 8b+/c that gets less seepage than Mercy Street if it is a wet spring/autumn.
Got close to another 8c (Schwarzer Schwann) but then temps and humidity got high. Battle will recommence in the Autumn.
Do a good alpine route.
Not yet.
Try a route on the trad route bucket list.
I tried If 6 was 9 on top rope briefly as nearly all Birkett's routes are trad list bucket list routes to me. However, I wouldn't class it as a serious attempt with a view to leading it any time soon!
Climb somewhere sunny on big holds or tufas if/when we can travel again.
No yet.

Running/biking

Finish the Eiger Ultra and try and finish around the 18 hour mark.
Eiger was cancelled again. However, I am now registered for the Engadin Ultra. My goal time remains the same although I am not as prepared for it as I would like to be.
Bob Graham Round.
I set off on possibly the worst night in a week of very stable weather and had to quit.
Another big run/bike - something like Stubai 7 summits in one push, one of the Hoehenwegs or a big bike ride (maybe through the Dolomites and Slovenia and then back up into Carinthia.
Not yet but hopefully in August or September if I get time.

Misc/Life

Get my residency permit sorted for Austria so that I don't get "Brexited". I mean, I like fish and sovereignty and all but I am not ready to come back to the UK just yet.
All sorted!
Improve my German. Maybe some French as well so there are less awkward silences when I get left alone in a room with the girlfriend's dad.
Meh! Some organic improvement I guess but no structured learning.
Read more - 3 books would be an improvement!
Not so far.
Get more clients for my Austrian company.
This is going really well. Almost too well in the respect that my free time is now squeezed.
Try and save some money so I can retire before 80.
Yep if highly volatile and speculative investments count as saving. So far so good but that could change!
Go fishing more and try and catch a big pike (or any pike) and a fish from the species bucket list (wild brown trout, Barbel, Grayling...).
Done a bit more fishing. Caught an unexpected pike whilst fly fishing but tried for Barbel on the Ribble a couple of times but had no joy.
Booze less that 2020.
Yes but that wasn't hard. Had the best part of 3 months off booze in spring but it has crept back into my life!

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#121 Re: Aims for 2021
December 23, 2021, 08:24:34 pm
I could have written this up a long time ago.

Climbing:
6 x 7B, 4 x 7B+ and 2 x 7C.
Going off the logbooks I did 6 x 7B, 2 x 7B+ and 0 x 7C. Loads of soft/not-the-grade in there but a good bouldering year for me on the crimps. Mainly Mag Lime.
Climb 8a+ (any from the list: K3, GBH, Chimes, Nemesis, Agent Provateur, Pat Pence)
Fell off the flake again on GBH but then work became challenging and I imploded. I don't think I'll go back in anger. Didn't go on any of the others except for AP, which I struggled on the start with and K3, which gave me new beta but a stiff kick up the arse.
Get on something Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free.
No.
Go climbing with Dan.
No Dans were climbed with. But I did get up at 5am to watch the Middleton Dan DJ. So that's something.

Training:
7 seconds 20mm @ 36kg
7 seconds 20mm @ 35kg
1-arm 20mm @ -5kg
Stopped doing these for some reason. I think my home set-up was too noisy for the newslug.
Campus 1-4-7
1-4-5 and 1-4-6 on one side but 1-4-7 feels like a pipe-dream. Lots of fun so look forward to getting stuck in again.

Other:
Organise an after school club when such things are allowed, Rugby or photography.
Covid fail. for 2022 Rugby won't happen as they already have Soccer Eds but photography/bird-watching might be feasible in a small lunch group. If I can tie it in with my CPD targets, great.
Get everything ready for a big project.
Biggest tick of my life. A baby. Were we ready? Of course not!
Save up for an electric car.
Got a new-ish 1.0ltr Fabia Estate, obviously not as good as electric but feels economical. Is it?


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#122 Re: Aims for 2021
December 23, 2021, 08:34:28 pm
1. Not "Stay At Home".
Guess that mostly worked, apart from recently injuries effectively confining me to home.

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#123 Re: Aims for 2021
December 23, 2021, 09:01:28 pm
2021 over for me so here's the review:
Climbing

- Heal current injuries and remain uninjured for the year
Full pulley rupture end of Jan looked to scupper this then had longest non-injury run for several years (10 months) before the latest hand/wrist injury  :(
  - 5 V9s
Due to the rupture, this wasn't going to happen. Close on one in a session before the latest injury came.
- V10
See above
- Boulder in at least three new areas in the US
Managed one (Rock Shop, Wyoming) which was mint
- Crush with the lads in RMNP
Didn't have a bad Alpine season, managed to put down a fair bit including some 8s

Training

- Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot
 - Be able to consistently do one-armers again
 - Front lever
 - Reach novice lifting benchmarks (1.5 BW Squat, 2 BW Deadlift - already have bench)
 - Get weight down below 82kg and keep it there, 80 would be even better
 - Start campusing again (so therefore back to 1-4-7 solid)
Negative to all this except for the campusing. As part of the training plan I did in the Autumn, I did 1-4-7 a lot :)

Life

- Get married (requires inter-continental travel to be back on the table)
I'll take this. Even though our full celebrations have been pushed back to 2022, we eloped to Telluride and had an amazing ceremony / day + mini-moon in SW Colorado

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#124 Re: Aims for 2021
December 23, 2021, 09:17:55 pm
Given my targets for last year were low and achievable I'm going the same this year. Ambitious and unachievable is so 2010's.

Bouldering: 7A
Managed a few things on the scrittle early season
Sport: 7b+
Got a few done, including some that had escaped me previously (Bandits at Dinbren, which was touch and go. Possibly soft 7c, Garderobe at Moat, fabulous route)

At least I'll have to try at these grades.
I did. It was nice to pull a bit, for a change. Note to self, do it more often

 

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