[tomtom]

Happy Christmas!

Mon: Rest

Tues: Wilton 3. Was crap on Rodins.. Robin came over and had a chat. Moved on to Starship Direct - and made some progress. First two moves are pretty much just lock off and slap (with a toe smeared on near your ear to take some weight off) - slapped and caught edge a couple of times. Good. Moved back to Rodins and sort of did some of the sit moves from stacked pads. Despite a bit of a crappy session - progress on some things so felt alright..

Weds: 40 min board session... really tired. Ended up doing 5 x 5 fast pull ups (two arms). Elbow survived,...

Thurs: 50 min board session - OK I guess

Friday: Xmas day. Lots of cooking and eating - felt like a full shift in the kitchen :D Great day though - one of our Sons friends and parents came over for dinner - so the boys had a good play.

Sat: 50 min board session - bit weak - but showed some real fight on one problem which felt good.

Sun: As above. Had the chance of two short outdoor sessions today and tomorrow - or hour on the board today - and a longer day tomorrow when the weather looks better. Opted for latter.

[Will Hunt]

Don't recall doing anything in the early part of the week.

24th - got the kids to bed and warmed up on the board. Then lamps at Caley. Secret Seventh went ok. New shoes proved much more effective on the toe hook. Immediately hit a new high point of getting the pinch and looking around for the feet. Had a go where I slapped the sloper on the left but it was very wet and just slid off. Went up again to see whether I could bypass it and just go straight for the top. Don't think so.
Was in a bit of a hurry to get home at a reasonable hour so was rushing and not resting properly between goes, so when I headed to Blockbuster just before the end it was just for a cursory glance. Immediately progressed beyond previous high point and had a couple of goes slapping for the rail.
So, no ticks, but for an opportunistic session it feels pleasing to get proof of concept on two of my three Caley nemeses (the last being Crystal Method which I've pulled onto a few times and just flailed). I don't often go to Caley in the best conditions so really must get back there on a good day.
Went home and drank the Tobermory that had been left out. Went hunting for more and found a bottle of Lagavulin 16 which I'd somehow forgotten about. It was heaven.

25th - felt like the luckiest person alive when I unwrapped a copy of Extreme Rock. And then later was given The White Cliff. Quickly put them out of reach of the children to be enjoyed later.
Built a lot of Playmobil. Rock Climbers with Cabin is my favourite. The little figurine with the chalk bag looks like Ryan Pasquil. He solos up the crag but unfortunately doesn't come with a bag of tinnies and a little stereo speaker that clip onto him. Sold separately.

Have been playing with the Toot Toot Drivers garage and parking tower, which is kind of fun, but what a fucking flawed concept it is.

[tomtom]

(nearly forgot - Santa left me some UnParallelup Sirius )

[Duma]

M - nothing, recovering from nights Sunday.
T - childcare, took daughter to tca for a bit, repeated a few blacks (6C - 7C).
W - nothing, 12 hr shift
T - nothing 12hr shift
F - nothing, 12hr shift
S - nothing, delayed Christmas day with daughter.
S - nothing, childcare

Poor week, but not to be helped with work.

71.5kg

[RobK]

M – One arm max hangs, starting a block of these so just a session to work out what assistance is needed. Half crimp on Lattice Edge, first session will be R @ -16kg, L @ -19kg. Then AnCap on the board, linked boulders session. First time completing it on the current circuit. Finished with some bar core.

T – Rest.

W – Boulder Hut. Campus board session, still failing on 146 but getting closer. AnCap (boulder triples) on the board. Felt really good and pleased at my open hand strength. I have a tendency to crimp everything so was nice to be able to be able to drag/chisel/half crimp a lot of stuff. Finished with some relatively easy/long circuit board stuff.

T – Malham. Full sunshine and wind over the top. Glorious, days like this here are hard to beat. Quick warm up on Consenting and then upstairs to try Herbie. First (and last) time on this a couple of years ago when I got all the moves but it felt very hard. Sort of the same outcome this time, although they probably all did feel a little steadier. Links felt tough though. At first I felt a bit disappointed as I know I’m a fair bit stronger than two years ago and I half felt I would come and just blast up it, or at least make solid progress and some good links. Had to remind myself that it is still a 7c+ at Malham, so that was likely never going to happen. Plus a hard session the evening before, combined with it being very vert/techy after a few months training on a board, and maybe I shouldn’t put too much emphasis on it.

F – Rest (Christmas and all that).

S – Back to the Boulder Hut. Same campus session as last time, still failing on the 146s. Tried isolating the last move and suddenly started getting a lot closer after focusing on my lower hand more, so maybe progress to come there. Then just a play on the board.

S – Rest. Met up with my folks for a walk. They came up trumps with a gift of new holds for the board.

An odd week in terms of motivation. I feel like I have been training well this winter but, after the first month or two, I feel like it’s all become slightly inconsistent and I’m not actually sure how effective it’s being. This, combined with struggling a little at Malham got in my head a little. Oh well, I’ll keep plugging away.

[dunnyg]

M-  Fingerboard. Did a repeater session. Beastmaker 5A adapted for Bm2000. Made it to the end. Proper boxed. Psyched to do this, but repeater sessions are loooong and not overly enjoyable (compared to max hangs etc.). Tried max hangs after but it didnt work out.

T- Baildon lamps. Did a 7A traverse in a few goes, and some new 6s, including a 6C crimpy FA (maybe). Enjoyable.

W- Antag, maybe other stuff?

Th- The glen. Did the 7A/+(not B) from last week. Took a while to get warm on it, but felt good when I did it. Some 6s (including some new non-quality link ups!) back home to clean the house and wrap prezzies.

F - mange mange mange

S - A 4+ a the glen and a womble

Su - Warm up and some one arm max hangs. Best was 4 seconds on bm big middle slot. Both arms pretty similar.  Short session. Front lever for 5 seconds.

Good
- Ticked some low 7s quickly
- 1 arm hang time on the up


To improve
- Try some hard problems.
- More stretching
- Bit more core in the mix.

Might not get much trainign done this week as I hope to be out most days. Psyched!

[shark]

11.7-10 Average 162.7 (up 0.4lbs)

M.

T. All set and psyched for the Tor then Guy texted said him and Steve R were going to try Jack the Nipper at Hidden Wall, Anston  which I’ve tried before. FB warm then straight to crag. Took a ladder hoping I’d find some holds in the high scoop. No such luck. Wasted most of my goes from not having properly read the beta I wrote down from before.  Burnt out quickly and was finished inside two hours. Time for a few days off.

W.

T.

F.

S.

S. Ben keen to get out but overnight rain ruled out grit. FB warm up. Went to the Tor feeling overweight and with low expectations. 2degrees. Soggy mess at crag but Bens ok. Darren and Chesterfield Kev there on the extension. Swapped beta on various bits. Alternative toe hook made second hard move easy and initially felt like a game changer. Did throw move in isolation straight off. Started again from low edge and got through throw move twice. Second time discovered that new toe hook made getting right on top of pinch harder.  Tips got sore quickly. At end reverted to old sequence and nearly did throw to end classically losing tension coming off cutting loose holding the high edge on THFML.


Bens Roof really coming together - pretty surprising considering my current weight.

[gollum]

W/C 21/12/2020

M - Triceps, campus, max hangs, abs, yoga
T - Pull-ups,  Buckstone, abs/core, yoga
W - Deadlifts, campus, fingers, shoulders, abs, yoga
T - Biceps, abs, yoga
F - Rest
S - Abs, yoga
S - Abs, yoga

M -Start the morning with Triceps work. 5x5 close grip presses with a pause at bottom and top of the rep with 60k seems a good challenge. Next do a superset of dumbbell skull crushers and crush presses each for 3x8. Follow this with a superset each of 3x6 of single arm Tate presses and overhead extensions. On to the cables. 3x8 V grip presses, 3x8 overhead extensions and the 3x8 single arm tri presses to finish. Good quick but effective session.
Go to City Bloc in the afternoon. Start with campus board and maintain the focus on fingers again. Then do a campus move on the Beastmaker edges, first on the 10s and then on the 8s, which is progress from July. Max hangs to follow on the BM mouth. Start with -4 assistance and work down to bodyweight. Finish session with 50 paused reps on the abs roller.
In the evening just do my yoga for flexibility session.

T - In the gym early. Start with weighted pull-ups for two reps up to 40k. Next is OAP with RH doing OAP and doing negatives on the LH do 5x1. Next do offset pull-ups on the bars for 5x3 and follow that with 3x1 jumps between the bars with 1 to 3 being easy but 1-4 beyond me. Next onto lock offs. Do two sets at full lock, 90° and 120° with a 10k weight and then do four sets of single arm at 90°. Spend 10 minutes working on muscle ups but more practice required if I want to get it every time. Finish with 5x5 close grip pull-ups.
Nip up to Buckstone for a quick session. Lots of dry rock with a few wet spots. Calf which had been tweaky seems fine whilst climbing, although not so keen on jumping between boulders to get off the tops. Nice to get out for an hour before going home to do lots of jobs, the low winter sun just makes this place look stunning.
Late afternoon crack on with abs roller with 3x10 off the feet, which feels plenty. Also do some kettlebell side raises to ensure I don’t neglect my obliques, 3x30 on each side. For Noah core work with some levers, tucked leg and straddled plus full lever raises.
Today’s yoga is based around hip mobility.

W - Go to Sheffield Depot. Start with weekly deadlift benchmarking and fail at 157.5. Get the weight to just below my knees but can get it no further today, back to 155 next week and go from there. Start with campusing and using the biggest holds for longer moves for me. Max Hangs next for 8 sets of 5 seconds each with 2k assistance on both arms.
Head to gym to work shoulders on way home, just presses today. Begin with 5x3 barbell shoulder presses working up to 45. Move on to seated dumbbell presses for 4 sets of 8 at 22s. Next is three sets of strict shoulder presses, reducing weight and upping the reps on each set. Arnold press for 3x8 with 16s is next. Move onto the machine press. Do 5x5 standard machine presses up to 42.5. Move onto half and halves for 3x8 and finish presses with alternating single arm presses for 3x6. Do 3x5 IYWTX (using the principles in the video clip nai had posted in another thread), 3x5 single arm scap raises and 3x8 two arm scap raises for stabilising muscles before heading home.
Abs roller for 50 reps and yoga for abs.

T - Early morning Christmas Eve visit up to Buckstone and more testing of the calf muscle. Improving all the time. Keeping it easy but confidence growing. Conditions are fantastic, cold and still.
In the gym working biceps. Start off with 5x5 on the preacher bench with the Ez bar at 35. On to steep single arm preacher curls for 3x8 with the 14. Incline curls for three sets with reducing reps but increasing weight. Work through a triset off seated curls, drag curls and strict standing barbell curls each for 3x8. Finish session with 3x10 standing hammer curls.
Late afternoon do 4x25 paused reps on the abs roller and yoga for flexibility.

F - Rest, eat, drink and being merry.

S- Traditional walk with Mrs B at lunchtime.
Later on do 60 paused reps with the abs roller and follow it up with an abs based yoga session.

S - 80 reps on abs roller and yoga for flexibility.

Good easy week. Think might have damaged my calf a bit more than I thought as still a little bit swollen and stiff a week later. Wasn’t doing anything unusual at all, foot on a hold quite far out but not miles. Rehab has begun and will take it steady, I might simply not have had enough water that day. Will see how it goes.

[Coops_13]

M: 100 press-ups (35, 32, 24, 9). 20 min incline walk in gym, lower body stretching

T: Fingerboard 22mm 10s up to +25lb *3sets

W: Density pickups 20mm +50lb *3sets. Push. Bench press up to BW X5 *3sets. Shoulder press, incline press, lateral and front raise

T: MRI in the morning for my knee. Morrison bouldering. Up to try Rupture V6, high-ish classic boulder with bad landing. Set up pads as best as possible, came off hard and smashed hand. Managed to send the boulder then went to get X-ray. V swollen but no breaks.


S: 1.5 mile walk round Harriman Lake with pup

Seeing specialist Surgeon in Vail on Wednesday - fingers crossed for good news

[nai]

M - board, smeggy so could only use wooden holds but decent session

T - Burbage North - Smeggy.  tried Blind Ali start moves but could barely hold anything.  Went to try Beardown, wasn't sure about the landing, decided to try Grizzly RH first instead and by the time I'd done that it was time to go

w nowt

Th - Roche. Another frustrating session on Faith and Faithless RH. Fingers kept uncurling off holds

FSS nowt

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - snatch rack pulls 90 kg 5x5. TBDL 80 kg x5 + farmer's to 1' x5. Very tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights, volume.
Thu - wheel hits, loaded carries on stairs. 4' + 4' x3. Brytal.
Fri - wheel hits, wheel overhead carry (mega YYFY), hill sprints.
Sat - wheel hits, wheel overhead carry, pull ups.
Sun - full body squat 10x5. Ab crunch with overhead dumbbell 10x5.

[JohnM]

Late entry...

M - shoulder stability and core + weighted pull ups.

T - assisted one arm hangs beastmaker middle edge.

W - trail running 12km 538m.

T - assisted one arm hangs beastmaker middle edge. Trail run 14km 500m.

F - Skiing at Schlick. Bad visibility but nice snow.

S - short walk.

S - trail run 22.8km 816m.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Late late late... Sorry sir, dog ate my Ipad blahblahblah...

M: AW Circuit Board Session - Warmup - crush project first try... Piss! Rest. Do it again to make sure it's not a fluke - Nails! Chuffed! Warm down(!!) session on auto belays = 1 x 5+, 1 x 6b+ , 1 x 6c , 1 x 6a no rest between routes - 10 mins rest then 1 x 6a, 1 x 6b, 1 x 6b+, 1 x 6a... Trashed!
T: AW Routes Sesh - Planned an easy one with the Mrs but the 7a+ was free so had a RP, fell off the last crux - Arse! (feels  way more like 7b!) Sacked it off and did a bunch of 6's - nice mileage...
W: Shoulder stuff
T: Drunk
F: Walk to Norfolk Arms then drunk again
S: Hungover & Fat!
S: AW Routes - Felt H E A V Y! Wanted to get on 7a+ but busy so just pottered up to 6b+... Route came free at the end of the session so gave the holds a fondle on TR - Heart wasn't in it but good to keep familiarity up.

Good week considering - Nice to feel like the shoulder is definitely on the mend and what it feels like to put the effort in... Always nice to get something done too (even if it is just indoor shizzle)...

[Fiend]

Late late late... Sorry sir, dog ate my Ipad blahblahblah...

Know you and Cocoa that's entirely likely!