[DAVETHOMAS90]

So, I'd been chatting with Mr JonathanR the other day. He'd sent me a couple of old Scarpa slippers,  via teleport of course, and I was explaining how, after sanding paint until 1.30am (a common Covid affliction) I just had to get out, and jogged over to Broomgrove for a spot of mid-night traversing.

A couple of nights later I ran to the park at 3am for some bar work, after stabbing my finger changing some plugs on the hi-fi.

We were discussing whether there was a "Covid Diary” page - not politics, not Power Club, but just a page to relay the weird world of post Covid living. This then, is that thread - a page for reaching out with stories of travails and surprising triumphs, highs and lows, what's out there, frustrations about what isn't etc.

The photo is from Broomgrove, 2am Christmas morning 2020.

Mr JR, thanks for the boots  Merry Christmas xx

[mrjonathanr]

You are    Broomgrove is waiting 

[A.Greenhorne]

Lovely stuff, exploring the periphery of possibilities on Christmas mourning. Nice one Dave 💗

[DAVETHOMAS90]

  Hope folk managed to get out there today, and managed to hook up those they needed to x

[remus]

Cool thread!

My lockdown board is starting to go a bit mouldy round the edges.



I friggin love it though. Got on it last night and had one of those magic sessions, projects were smashed in and hard stuff repeated with fingers that felt invincible. Remarkable that a few scatty pieces of plywood in a cold, damp back garden can bring so much enjoyment.

[tomtom]

Moved back into lockdown training mode this week. As opposed to climbing and a bit of training.

I too had a great board session today - I didn’t feel invincible or strong, creaky and everything was hard. But - I did more than I’ve managed on it for the last 4-5 months including a couple of real last gasp dragging my shit together for each move ascents. Whilst not having ‘the flow’ that sometimes happens dragging a good performance out felt really really good. A good couple of catching holds wrong but just having to power through it. Ace.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Nice looking board there Remus 

.. and great session by the sounds of it, both, Remus, TomTom.

It's all getting a bit eighties out there. I predict some hard climbing getting done when this is all over, after a winter of pulling on 10mm wooden edges     .. and big yellow blobs!

I wandered over to Broomgrove earlier, just as everyone else was leaving. Shouldn't really advertise it being so busy, but good to see folk there.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Re Covid-19 projects, my nights have been spent working on these, which I'm rather proud of 



I think they've come up F'ing beautifully. Mostly using things recovered in skips - ie. refurbished the orbital sander. The paint stripper, varnish, brushes, sandpaper and paint, also found.

As for training, my weapon of choice is my fingerboard:



The lovely long bevelled dowel in the centre, is one I picked out of the firewood basket at The Norfolk Arms (near Sheffield), one evening there with Mr JonathanR.

"Campus pulls":



Two finger "hangs"  :



Not quite 6mm 
Model wears Moon pants by MrJR x

[mrjonathanr]

Looking a bit out of condition there Dave 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Thanks MrJR  x

I had a fingerboard session at 3am this morning, just illustrating how out of kilter everything can get, and woke up with sore forearms.

Bizarre what can lighten ones mood 
Fantastic 

As significantly, for the past 20 years or so, I've been meaning to seal a gap around the edge of the concrete floor, under the cupboards in my kitchen. Out of sight, but seldom out of mind, because anything stored in the cupboards for a while, picks up a fusty smell and mould, which contaminates cooking.

It took me about 90 minutes last night to finally get a round tuit 

.. which is why I was on the fingerboard at 3am.

[SA Chris]

Moved back into lockdown training mode this week. As opposed to climbing and a bit of training.

Likewise. However, surprised myself on Thursday coming close to doing a project from last lockdown, which had been steadily eliminating good footholds from to a point where I don't think I can take away any more and still do it. Each foothold being dropped took me longer and longer to do the prob again. This in spite of not doing much training once I was back working in an office and climbing outdoors more, and being half a stone heavier. Actually Maybe one more can go..

[lagerstarfish]

Anyone remember The Shiny Show?

I've been motivating the the two younger kids with kitchen implements covered in foil. They are too old for this shit, but they get into the spirit of it.

Today I did my own Shiny. A climbing helmet covered in aluminium foil.

It made everything better.

Five stars.
Would recommend.




*Edit*
Possible overlap with other threads

[DAVETHOMAS90]

As I said on WhatsApp Lagers, looks like the few remaining grey cells need protection from getting zapped!

Boxed up a load of spare cycling stuff, and just sold it on Gumtree for £50. I'll probably go on Amazon now, to buy a set of rings! Last lockdown was productive, clearing things out. Everyone's looking/shopping online at the moment.

Had another late night session at Broomgrove yesterday too. Great conditions!

[lagerstarfish]

Thanks MrJR  x

I had a fingerboard session at 3am this morning, just illustrating how out of kilter everything can get, and woke up with sore forearms.

Bizarre what can lighten ones mood 
Fantastic 

As significantly, for the past 20 years or so, I've been meaning to seal a gap around the edge of the concrete floor, under the cupboards in my kitchen. Out of sight, but seldom out of mind, because anything stored in the cupboards for a while, picks up a fusty smell and mould, which contaminates cooking.

It took me about 90 minutes last night to finally get a round tuit 

.. which is why I was on the fingerboard at 3am.

One of my hobbies is looking for meaning in the lyrics of tracks by Scooter.

The track Nessaja describes a situation occuring at 3am.

It also includes the lines
"It's not a bird.
It's not a plane.
It must be Dave who's on the train"

I now understand this to be a clear reference to Dave training on his finger board (appearing to fly at 3am)

It also includes other references that correspond to conversations I have had with Dave.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Largers x That's rather funny 

Anyone else here looking for inspiration? No woody?
Too much talk of dimes, domes and smears on the other thread? Footholds.. wtf! 

This interview with Jack Arnow on the Dragon's Door website is a great read:

https://www.dragondoor.com/dragon_door_interviews_jack_arnow/

[remus]

The end of a (very short) era



Sad to see the board go but it's not all bad as it's being re-incarnated in a new location 

[duncan]

I thought it would have been much bigger! (insert innuendo here)

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Remus, looks like you've been training for Shadow Play there!

Working recruitment on those Van der Waals forces, where the holds used to be 

Will be great to see the next incarnation 

[remus]

Remus, looks like you've been training for Shadow Play there!

Working recruitment on those Van der Waals forces, where the holds used to be 

Will be great to see the next incarnation 

Im just in the process of making a video about my 2700% gains, hold on in there for the big reveal.

[Oldmanmatt]

Remus, looks like you've been training for Shadow Play there!

Working recruitment on those Van der Waals forces, where the holds used to be 

Will be great to see the next incarnation 

Im just in the process of making a video about my 2700% gains, hold on in there for the big reveal.

I’ve come close to that.

But only in body weight and “time on the couch”.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Brilliant 

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Fingerboard at 3am. Covid init

[Oldmanmatt]

Fingerboard at 3am. Covid init

Mate, you need to fill your days. In the long run 3am fingerboard sessions are going to become a problem.
You are not alone, I saw Frank Cho (the artist) posting about his (also) 3am weight session last night. Same story, new way of working has him all out of whack.
I’m lucky enough that two of my four, are on live lessons and the other two still have to check in for Tutor first thing each morning, so I still get some routine. However, they don’t need much input from me, so I’m reflooring the family bathroom, installing spotlights everywhere (colour changing, remote controlled, we now live in an ‘90s rave, it’s cool, putting the bathroom on UV, just before going to bed,  is hilarious when the kids get up to pee in the night). I’ve installed a shower in the laundry room, for those cold, wet, just back from Diving/Kayaking/sea swim type stuff. I have been making myself go to work at the Wall, building, repairing, tweaking stuff and training (dislocated pinky, in splint, puta crimp (no, no crimping, that hurts, but you get what I’m saying) this week; so I’ve been running instead, either on the cheapy treadmill we picked up from Facebook marketplace  or outdoors (actually it’s a pretty good treadmill, that was going cheap, there’s a few around, all those people that got “keen” in lockdown #1 and realised but July they were just hanging clothes on it).
Find a project to build!

Edit:

That needs more explanation.
The lights can be set to a colour, then switched off and when you switch them on again, they come back on at the last setting. These lights have a black light setting.
If you stumble into the bathroom, half asleep, pull the cord to turn on the light and all the white furniture, most of the shampoo bottles and anything white you might be wearing, fluoresces in an otherwise dark room and you are 12, it freaks  you out. Especially if you had no idea that it was possible.
This works twice per child, apparently. Good for best part of a week in entertainment, here.
 

[Will Hunt]

UV light in a bathroom used by teenage boys sounds like a recipe for a "talk" to me.

[Oldmanmatt]

UV light in a bathroom used by teenage boys sounds like a recipe for a "talk" to me.

Nah, they know the score.

Which is why I find “switching off the Wifi” when they’re in there, so amusing...

Seriously though, internet usage monitoring etc, is a nightmare. We try not to be too intrusive, but keep getting dragged into it. Ho hum.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Great post OMM.

All sounds highly entertaining. You should charge for entry to a gig like that 

Yes, the other 3am projects tend to involve working through all the white emulsion I've found during my "skip runs". Talking of which, I found a black light the other week, and passed onto Simes here.
I was also looking at the kitchen ceiling, and wondering whether I should fit some spots, but maybe a bit adventurous for me!

I wanted to ask though, how are things with the wall? Are you sufficiently well insulated from the Covid crisis? It's been such a Mammoth investment. Any problems reopening?

[Oldmanmatt]

Great post OMM.

All sounds highly entertaining. You should charge for entry to a gig like that 

Yes, the other 3am projects tend to involve working through all the white emulsion I've found during my "skip runs". Talking of which, I found a black light the other week, and passed onto Simes here.
I was also looking at the kitchen ceiling, and wondering whether I should fit some spots, but maybe a bit adventurous for me!

I wanted to ask though, how are things with the wall? Are you sufficiently well insulated from the Covid crisis? It's been such a Mammoth investment. Any problems reopening?

I suppose the short answer is, I don’t know.

Opening up after #1 wasn’t a problem, but there was absolutely no group or schools business during the autumn, so our revenue was down more than 50%. Those annoying groups and clubs, keep walls open. So we scraped through until #2.
That ridiculous short opening between #2 & #3 cost us dearly though. The build up to Xmas is always quiet, worse than ever before this year and only a few diehards continue training and climbing over the Xmas/NY period, so without Xmas party and Xmas group activities stuff, it was pretty dire.
The grants have been almost enough to keep on top of things, but only because the landlord was understanding enough to give us a three month rent holiday. Problem was, if we were open, we had to cover wages, rent and utilities etc etc. Actually closed, with lockdown grants and furlough for the guys, we’re fine. The next hurdle will be getting people to come back, just as we move into the summer and our “other” normally quiet period. I think a lot of businesses, would rather see lockdown extended until the vaccine program is further advanced and people have more confidence in going out again. The worry that we might be opening up again too quickly, bugs me on every level; I don’t want to see more death and loss, I don’t want to see more stress on businesses and livelihoods trying to survive in tepid conditions and weak demand. It’s a little hard to express all that in a post, it’s complicated, but ultimately the government has just pratted around with half measures, that haven’t been effective for many, individuals or businesses and it’s frustrating. I think, when we look back on this time, it will not be with any satisfaction. As a nation, we have had a much harder hit than any other Western nation, economically and socially. That is really going to hit home once we stop to catch our breath.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I completely get what you're trying to explain there. Sounds like a tight rope to be walked, with a knot that keeps slipping at one end.

When restrictions are lifted, I guess you'll have to just try to embrace the situation you're left with. We'll all wish you well with that of course.

[lagerstarfish]

Thanks MrJR  x

I had a fingerboard session at 3am this morning, just illustrating how out of kilter everything can get, and woke up with sore forearms.

Bizarre what can lighten ones mood 
Fantastic 

As significantly, for the past 20 years or so, I've been meaning to seal a gap around the edge of the concrete floor, under the cupboards in my kitchen. Out of sight, but seldom out of mind, because anything stored in the cupboards for a while, picks up a fusty smell and mould, which contaminates cooking.

It took me about 90 minutes last night to finally get a round tuit 

.. which is why I was on the fingerboard at 3am.

One of my hobbies is looking for meaning in the lyrics of tracks by Scooter.

The track Nessaja describes a situation occuring at 3am.

It also includes the lines
"It's not a bird.
It's not a plane.
It must be Dave who's on the train"

I now understand this to be a clear reference to Dave training on his finger board (appearing to fly at 3am)

It also includes other references that correspond to conversations I have had with Dave.

I've been meaning to add further evidence of Scooter making reference to DT90
In the track "fuck the millennium" we find the lyrics
"I'm the candyman
Also known as Dave, Dave from Sheffield
Furthermore known as The Screaming Lord"
Obviously it would be too blatant to mention Lord of The Flies directly, but I like what Scooter has done here

I look forward to the use of "rockstar from Devon" in the new Scooter album