Need to try some >= 7B. Need some targets at quick drying crags (other than almscliff). Any yorkshire/lancs suggestions appreciated.
Quote from: dunnyg on December 20, 2020, 09:26:15 pm Need to try some >= 7B. Need some targets at quick drying crags (other than almscliff). Any yorkshire/lancs suggestions appreciated.Best 7Bs in Yorkshire imo, in no particular order (recently sent this to a mate):Desert Island Arete Sit - confession. I haven't done the sit or the stand but I feel like the sit doesn't add much to this. And I think it's really disappointing that the arete on its right is so much easier. Just makes going round the corner seem horribly contrived.Rumble in the JungleBelly Porker's ProgressJuJu Club - I agree that this felt 7B but short people (and Big Tall Ben who loves a big grade) go apeshit when they hear this.CrusisThe Outback - is this really good? Thing on Australia Roof at Earl?Ben's GrooveAndy's Route/Problem - the thing next to great flake? tried this briefly and thought it was a bit shit and sharp with an awkward landing.Fight on BlackAndy Brown's WallThe FlakesBaby Spice - never seen 7B and a bit shit. Feels a bit arbitrary as you where you decide to rock around the corner. Also - is at that absolute hellpit Ilkley.The FlyGrape Nut - 7A+ innit?
Quote from: Bradders on December 20, 2020, 09:46:44 pmQuote from: dunnyg on December 20, 2020, 09:26:15 pm Need to try some >= 7B. Need some targets at quick drying crags (other than almscliff). Any yorkshire/lancs suggestions appreciated.Best 7Bs in Yorkshire imo, in no particular order (recently sent this to a mate):Desert Island Arete Sit - confession. I haven't done the sit or the stand but I feel like the sit doesn't add much to this. And I think it's really disappointing that the arete on its right is so much easier. Just makes going round the corner seem horribly contrived.Rumble in the JungleBelly Porker's ProgressJuJu Club - I agree that this felt 7B but short people (and Big Tall Ben who loves a big grade) go apeshit when they hear this.CrusisThe Outback - is this really good? Thing on Australia Roof at Earl?Ben's GrooveAndy's Route/Problem - the thing next to great flake? tried this briefly and thought it was a bit shit and sharp with an awkward landing.Fight on BlackAndy Brown's WallThe FlakesBaby Spice - never seen 7B and a bit shit. Feels a bit arbitrary as you where you decide to rock around the corner. Also - is at that absolute hellpit Ilkley.The FlyGrape Nut - 7A+ innit?Thoughts above (but only because I love discussing grades and quality of rock climbs - all personal opinion). Bit of a dropped bollock not including one of Yorkshire's few world class climbs - McNab (though Huw has done that).Not sure how hard Code Orange is but if it's 7B then it's up there with the best.What grade is Scary Canary?RACING RAYMOND!Millstone Grit
just stay on the RH side at whatever grade it is that way, probably 7A+.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on December 21, 2020, 09:21:50 amjust stay on the RH side at whatever grade it is that way, probably 7A+.Get a grip, Jim!
Bradders / Will / Dunny - ages ago when I was better / stronger I was touting about for 7bs in Yorkshire. Have to say the main struggle is not so much finding quality, but one that's a) not ludicrously contrived, and b) will be reliably dry, in good connies etc.Hard pill to swallow, but perhaps The Peak has better quality 7bs than Yorkshire. Hastag justsaying etc. I started a thread ages ago with some good tips.
Quote from: dunnyg on December 20, 2020, 09:26:15 pm Need to try some >= 7B. Need some targets at quick drying crags (other than almscliff). Any yorkshire/lancs suggestions appreciated.Best 7Bs in Yorkshire imo, in no particular order (recently sent this to a mate):Desert Island Arete Sit (sit start to another problem)Rumble in the Jungle (no idea what this is)Belly Porker's Progress (frequently damp)JuJu Club (Caley, so good luck with connies)Crusis (OK but the whole sit start makes it a bit wack)The Outback (admittedly not tried)Ben's Groove (see above re Caley)Andy's Route/Problem (Caley again)Fight on Black (Widdop, so damp / wet a lot)Andy Brown's Wall (strange a lanky chap like this one!)The Flakes (ditto)Baby Spice (per Will's comment, looks OK but Ilkley)The Fly (is this Crookrise? Probably a good shout)Grape Nut (the "non jump start" "not off the block")
Geminid Trail at the Satellite Boulder (admittedly this one isn't often dry, but when it is...! Given 7A+ but I think 7B).
Im interested in 7B+ and soft 7C too.
Replying to TTT in t'other thread:Quote from: tommytwotone on December 21, 2020, 08:41:35 amBradders / Will / Dunny - ages ago when I was better / stronger I was touting about for 7bs in Yorkshire. Have to say the main struggle is not so much finding quality, but one that's a) not ludicrously contrived, and b) will be reliably dry, in good connies etc.Hard pill to swallow, but perhaps The Peak has better quality 7bs than Yorkshire. Hastag justsaying etc. I started a thread ages ago with some good tips. Madness. None of the ones I posted are in any way contrived (with possible exception of DIA), and are regularly in condition throughout the season too. I forgot to mention Polar Haze at Ilkley RV, and Geminid Trail at the Satellite Boulder (admittedly this one isn't often dry, but when it is...! Given 7A+ but I think 7B). Trying to compare Peak to Yorkshire has been done to death previously so won't get into that.
Quote from: Bradders on December 21, 2020, 09:47:58 amGeminid Trail at the Satellite Boulder (admittedly this one isn't often dry, but when it is...! Given 7A+ but I think 7B).Quote from: dunnyg on December 21, 2020, 09:42:45 amIm interested in 7B+ and soft 7C too.Heaven in your Hands could arguably fit into this bracket and you've tried it before (and you won't find better). I find it about as hard as Lay-by Arete (I haven't actually finished that so maybe we could go together - it should definitely be on the list). HiyH with the new sequence hasn't got any properly stopper moves on it, but you do need to learn the sequence and where to hit the holds (which for one of the arete holds is not overly obvious).
for 7B not mentionedThe PrizePistol Whip
If you want a slab then Syrett's Saunter Right-hand.....bit reach dependent...wasn't mint connies when I did it.Parker Sit...(reach dependent).
Red Squirrel...the rubbish lanky first move...Jerry's arete...just needs to be properly dry
Quote from: Will Hunt on December 21, 2020, 10:21:34 amHeaven in your Hands......prone to scrittle.
Heaven in your Hands...
The Prize...so often out of nick and requires three people's worth of pads and a really good spotter.Pistol Whip...little bit eliminate in my view.
If you want to avoid busy crags then the magnesian limestone might be of interest. The following problems are all quick drying or don't get wet but can suffer condensation.Church Crag - The Shield, Gulliver's TravelsSmeaton Crags - ElysiumLound Hill - The Hills Have EyesBarnburgh - Uncertainty PrincipleSprotbrough - Half Life, The Shelf, Shelf LessLevitt Hagg - The HaggViaduct Boulder - Breach of the PeaceEarth Quarry - Diamond WhiteHooton Roberts - Chieftan