Thought it was about time I joined in after being a serial lurker. Got quite stuck into training this winter after a decent season. The home board I built during lockdown has helped a lot. For a bit of background, I am almost exclusively a sport climber but have been enjoying pottering around with my pads this autumn/winter. This past summer I did my first 8a's so looking to build on that next season. I'm based in Chester so Clwyd lime is my local stuff, with North Wales and the Peak not far away.
M – Parisella’s after work. Second session on Rock Atrocity. Sort of got involved with this by accident when I ended up at the cave last weekend due to lack of other dry options. Only been a couple of times before playing on Left Wall Traverse. RA would be my first 7C. Had got all the moves last session so was a case of making links. Pleased to get it done in two halves, from the start to matched on the flake and then from there to the end. TRX session when I got home.
T – Lunchtime fingerboard, Crimpd AnCap 70% repeaters. Evening session at the Boardroom. 5 x 5 pull ups +16kg. Then playing on the routes with a mate, went too hard too early and was mega boxed for the whole thing resulting in much failure. 20 minutes of easier endurance stuff on the autobelays to finish with.
W – Back to the cave after work. New high point on RA of slapping to the sloper off the flake but not holding the swing. Then an enjoyable tick of LWT, my tactic of trying this when too tried for RA finally paid off. Obviously third day on at the cave is not ideal but happened for various reasons!
T – Much needed rest.
F – Lunchtime fingerboard, Crimpd AeroPow repeaters. Super pumped, in hindsight this was probably one session too much. Evening – Anderson repeaters using the protocol I saw on here a while back with F3 open, F3 half crimp, M2 open. Been doing these to try and improve my weaknesses on any hold that is not a four finger crimp. Bar core work, followed by the linked boulders session from Crimpd on my board. Only managed two sets before I was feeling totally wiped out.
S – Rest, didn’t really move from the sofa which was the goal for the day.
S – Cave again. Truly awful conditions, not that I was expecting anything else. A marginal high point (held the swing a bit more). Good group though so still enjoyable.
An easy week in the schedule coming up is much needed: one midweek day of training, one midweek cave session and then whatever the weather allows at the weekend.
