on some of the boards I've used there's an over abundance of Jenga block style crimps, where you can use your thumb on the short end of the crimp or you can get a bit of pinch action on it. In my experience this is significantly easier than an equivalent sized edge where you can't get any thumb
Not sure if this is the point t_b was trying to make, but on some of the boards I've used there's an over abundance of Jenga block style crimps, where you can use your thumb on the short end of the crimp or you can get a bit of pinch action on it. In my experience this is significantly easier than an equivalent sized edge where you can't get any thumb action on the go, and if you use the holds a lot then you can become over reliant on the thumb. It can be a bit of a shock when you then get outside and feel weak on holds just because you can't get the thumb involved.
An update and a quandary. I stopped doing fingerboard sessions in July 2021 and did more board climbing. Which interestingly and maybe not surprisingly, my fingers got weaker. Over the last 5weeks I’ve reintroduced fingerboard sessions. Doing 2 sets of density hangs/week to build connective tissue and tendons. So tonight I did a 10s max hang assessment on a 20mm lattice edge in preparation for 6 week block of 10s max hangs.Base weight with dipping belt =87.4kgMax hang was 87.4kg + 17.7kg = 106kgMy fingers are depressingly weak. So reaching out to the knowledgeable folk again. Do I;1. Go for 3 sessions/week of max hangs and drop a boulder session (currently doing 2 board sessions per week with one sport session). I want to keep the sport session. 2. Do a 3rd session of max hangs before a boulder session 3. Do 2 sessions/week of max hangs & stay with the two bouldering sessions.
I didn’t want to stop board sessions so he’s put them in at the start of a session. So 15 mins warm up, some recruitment hangs, 10s hang, 2 min rest x6, and then a board session.The hangs are really making me feel recruited and strong for the board session so that way seems to be working for me.
Quote from: Aussiegav on February 10, 2022, 10:44:41 pmAn update and a quandary. I stopped doing fingerboard sessions in July 2021 and did more board climbing. Which interestingly and maybe not surprisingly, my fingers got weaker. Over the last 5weeks I’ve reintroduced fingerboard sessions. Doing 2 sets of density hangs/week to build connective tissue and tendons. So tonight I did a 10s max hang assessment on a 20mm lattice edge in preparation for 6 week block of 10s max hangs.Base weight with dipping belt =87.4kgMax hang was 87.4kg + 17.7kg = 106kgMy fingers are depressingly weak. So reaching out to the knowledgeable folk again. Do I;1. Go for 3 sessions/week of max hangs and drop a boulder session (currently doing 2 board sessions per week with one sport session). I want to keep the sport session. 2. Do a 3rd session of max hangs before a boulder session 3. Do 2 sessions/week of max hangs & stay with the two bouldering sessions.I don’t really know anything about this kind of thing, but I’ve just started a plan from a coach/physio.I did a 7s Max hang test and I’m doing 6x10s max hangs 2-3 times a week, but using 85% of my “total” 7s weight (my weight + weight added).I didn’t want to stop board sessions so he’s put them in at the start of a session. So 15 mins warm up, some recruitment hangs, 10s hang, 2 min rest x6, and then a board session.The hangs are really making me feel recruited and strong for the board session so that way seems to be working for me.
Contrary to much literature and received wisdom, I can usually do a short campusboard or fingerboard session with high quality after some type of strength endurance (anaerobic cap for instance) as long as I am not going to absolute failure on the strength endurance (and I feel like these sessions are still productive).
Quote from: jwi on February 11, 2022, 09:02:51 amContrary to much literature and received wisdom, I can usually do a short campusboard or fingerboard session with high quality after some type of strength endurance (anaerobic cap for instance) as long as I am not going to absolute failure on the strength endurance (and I feel like these sessions are still productive). You're weird!
Quote from: James Malloch on February 11, 2022, 07:32:09 amI didn’t want to stop board sessions so he’s put them in at the start of a session. So 15 mins warm up, some recruitment hangs, 10s hang, 2 min rest x6, and then a board session.The hangs are really making me feel recruited and strong for the board session so that way seems to be working for me.That's interesting. I cannot really do any bouldering after a fingerboard session. Even if I just do warmup + 4 x 10 s hangs in the morning, I am usually noticeable weaker bouldering in the evening. If I do them just before climbing I am pretty useless. Some people have told me that is because my hangboard sessions are too hard and I should do the hangs at lower intensity. I have experimented with that a bit, but felt that in that case they add very little value and mostly just eat time on a busy schedule.Contrary to much literature and received wisdom, I can usually do a short campusboard or fingerboard session with high quality after some type of strength endurance (anaerobic cap for instance) as long as I am not going to absolute failure on the strength endurance (and I feel like these sessions are still productive).
Quote from: jwi on February 11, 2022, 09:02:51 amContrary to much literature and received wisdom, I can usually do a short campusboard or fingerboard session with high quality after some type of strength endurance (anaerobic cap for instance) as long as I am not going to absolute failure on the strength endurance (and I feel like these sessions are still productive). You're weird!To counteract Mischa and JWI, I will do 3-4 max hangs (~5s at 100% max) before a hard bouldering session. I find it necessary to feel recruited and it has a big positive impact on my bouldering. I guess it should be obvious whether hangs before the board are impacting your board session or not. If they are, try lowering the volume (number and duration) before ditching the idea completely.
I found that the path to finger strength for me was a lot of climbing at my limit, like 3-4 sessions a week of redlining the little bastards.Injury risk is high in retrospect. But it did work, my fingers got a lot stronger. I've started fingerboarding and so far my attitude is similar; whack on weight, try really hard, do it as well as loads of climbing.
An update and a quandary. IBase weight with dipping belt =87.4kgMax hang was 87.4kg + 17.7kg = 106kgMy fingers are depressingly weak. So reaching out to the knowledgeable folk again. Do I;1. Go for 3 sessions/week of max hangs and drop a boulder session (currently doing 2 board sessions per week with one sport session). I want to keep the sport session. 2. Do a 3rd session of max hangs before a boulder session 3. Do 2 sessions/week of max hangs & stay with the two bouldering sessions.
Quote from: Wellsy on February 11, 2022, 10:36:32 amI found that the path to finger strength for me was a lot of climbing at my limit, like 3-4 sessions a week of redlining the little bastards.Injury risk is high in retrospect. But it did work, my fingers got a lot stronger. I've started fingerboarding and so far my attitude is similar; whack on weight, try really hard, do it as well as loads of climbing.I’m sure this is great advice for the younger reader but my experience as someone who started climbing at 28 is that it probably belongs in the same category as “just drink as much as you like because you probably won’t get a hangover” .
Well I’ve no excuse then.
I was quite adamant I didn’t want it to feel too “training” like.
The exception is front 3 half crimp - if I do even a few maximal hangs on this grip I feel like I've drained the tank an inexplicable amount