[Jackob]

Had a look at vitruvian man today, looks like an awesome problem however with m limited wingspan it also looks fairly unlikely i am going to the able to do the big span. Does anyone have any alternate beta/ has anyone of a similar height to me (5ft7/ +0.5 ape index) done this problem?

Thanks! 

[nik at work]

I’m 5’6” and did it, but a long time ago. So nothing helpful to offer beyond yes it is possible, and I don’t recall an especially reachy move.
There was a video somewhere on the web but think it might be lost to the sands of time...

[nik at work]

Here you go last problem in this video


Toe hook for the first big move I think, taller folk use a heel maybe???

[yetix]

https://www.instagram.com/p/BvkIRGnBGvc/?igshid=12dq6muq58n4p

Pretty sure Jack Pal is 5'7" and has a negative ape index.

[Ru]

I'm a bit shorter than everyone that's posted so far, and did it using the normal sequence. Definitely spanny, but I still thought the grade was right.

[nai]

so as long as you climb 8s you'll be fine

[Bradders]

I watched Pete Dawson do it, one of the most impressive bits of climbing I've seen. After he'd done it he popped round the back and declared Isla d'Encanta was probably easier for him.*

*may be exaggerating, but only slightly

[User deactivated]

I’m 5’6” and did it, but a long time ago. So nothing helpful to offer beyond yes it is possible, and I don’t recall an especially reachy move.
There was a video somewhere on the web but think it might be lost to the sands of time...

It's reachy nature is probably more in relation to span than height. I'm guessing yours is pretty positive looking at that vid. Pete is tiny and has a more or less neutral ape, doesn't take a genius to work out that's why the 9a monster thought it was hard.

[nik at work]

Just checked, +1”
I’ll hand back my short-arse-climbers membership card at the next AGM and join the cheating lanksters...

[tomtom]

Isn't VM easier for the short anyway?

[peewee]

I find Vitruvian hard (5ft 7, 6ft span), it took me a lot longer than the pit problem,  easiest method I've found is using the right heel for the big move. It's a strange one as i know a lot of people that can walk VM but can't get near the pit problem.

[tomtom]

I find Vitruvian hard (5ft 7, 6ft span), it took me a lot longer than the pit problem,  easiest method I've found is using the right heel for the big move. It's a strange one as i know a lot of people that can walk VM but can't get near the pit problem.

I'm shit at both :D

[M1V0]

Most people these days seem to use the heel, there's an intermediate edge that one can use for the span move as well, reduces the big lurch a touch supposedly.

I found the first move to be really weird, I would try it once or twice every session I was down at Trow and never felt that it would go, then suddenly the movement started making sense and worked. I thought VM was far harder than Pit low. I think I did Buccaneer quicker than VM too.

[Bradders]

I worked the first move of VM A LOT whilst trying Iron Man, just looking for ways to make it that tiny bit easier on the link, as I fell off there so many times. What I ended up with was:

- Use the heel hook and you can actually cam your foot in against the roof, which was crucial for me as if the foot came off, I was off.
- Don't bother with the intermediate, it doesn't help, ends up throwing off your body position and reduces the momentum you can go with; just go for the big hold.
- Left foot needs to go on the obvious little polished edge. Use a shoe with good soft rubber but a stiffer midsole.
- Hold the left hand start hold as a front 3 crimp. Holding it as a pinch was much harder to get into, eviscerated my thumb and didn't help do the move (this was maybe only relevant coming from the sit though). Don't bother trying to get your pinky on, it doesn't help.

Bear in mind I'm 5' 11" but with a big span so it suits me, but I still had to break it down to that level to get up the sit (and it's not even the hardest bit of the sit for me).

[Ru]

I worked the first move of VM A LOT whilst trying Iron Man, just looking for ways to make it that tiny bit easier on the link, as I fell off there so many times. What I ended up with was:

- Hold the left hand start hold as a front 3 crimp. Holding it as a pinch was much harder to get into, eviscerated my thumb and didn't help do the move (this was maybe only relevant coming from the sit though). Don't bother trying to get your pinky on, it doesn't help.

If you have a short wingspan this takes a few inches off. I had to hold it open to get some extra distance.

[36chambers]

I find Vitruvian hard (5ft 7, 6ft span), it took me a lot longer than the pit problem, easiest method I've found is using the right heel for the big move. It's a strange one as i know a lot of people that can walk VM but can't get near the pit problem.

I didn't know you had a 6ft span, could have saved myself the bother of putting my pads under Underworld after being inspired by your video

[36chambers]

My beta for reachy problems is to get someone to push you into the position you're trying to climb to so you can see just how stretched you are, how close your hips actually need to be to the wall, how much on your tiptoes you need to be, etc. It's also useful to know whether it's actually possible to move once you're there.

Failing a power spot, I sometimes use a brush stick to measure the distance between holds to see how it relates to my span. This was particularly useful for Resonate at Anston Stones where I genuinely thought I'd have no chance of spanning the last move, only to realise I had a full hand of span available.

[yetix]

I worked the first move of VM A LOT whilst trying Iron Man, just looking for ways to make it that tiny bit easier on the link, as I fell off there so many times. What I ended up with was:

- Hold the left hand start hold as a front 3 crimp. Holding it as a pinch was much harder to get into, eviscerated my thumb and didn't help do the move (this was maybe only relevant coming from the sit though). Don't bother trying to get your pinky on, it doesn't help.

If you have a short wingspan this takes a few inches off. I had to hold it open to get some extra distance.

I dont quite have Nicks wingspan but I 3f drag this hold to maximise reach and also because its how I will have to take the hold when climbin through from Iron Man if that ever happens

[M1V0]

I half-crimp the LH, maybe a touch of the old pinch. Think I'm 5ft8? Can't really see much from the angle, but here's a video of the right hand version though the first move is still the same. Cam the right foot against the rock, almost feels like it'll snap if you miss the span move (never has though) and summon the power of snake hips.

[Andy F]

I'm 5'7 and +2 ape. Did it using the toe round the corner and crimping the RH start hold. The reach is fine, it's getting the movement I found most difficult.

Well, that and the last move, but hey...

[Adam Lincoln]

Great problem. Brings back memories of many a day spent in the quarry. This and Texas Hold Em best 7b+'s ive done on lime.

[mrjonathanr]

Never been (apart from climbing Jean Genie when I was a kid).

What are the conditions like in winter please? Climbable now?

[Adam Lincoln]

Never been (apart from climbing Jean Genie when I was a kid).

What are the conditions like in winter please? Climbable now?

Great, really quick to dry. This face anyway. The other sides less quick but not too bad.

[mrjonathanr]

Thank you. Might be worth a visit then!

[tomtom]

Thank you. Might be worth a visit then!

Shelterstone is super fast drying. Minimal seepage too (as there’s not much draining onto the climbing faces). Red wall is an acquired taste but stays dry when raining but can seep.