[Duma]

M - work, 12hr shift
T - work, 12hr shift
W - wandered round cheddar for a couple of hours to check access during the road closure. Eve assisted one armers, -6.25kg both sides, felt flat.
T -  Cheddar, lion rock. Baltic, was going to go further up but couldn't face the shade... Got Human Zoo (7c) 3rd go but ran out of time and energy for Cheddar Death Knell (7b+). Thought both of these were tough but may just have been temps.
F -
S - assisted one armers while watching the comp. Changed warm up/progression so may have been this or just better rested, either way big progress, -4.5kg R, and just about scraped -3.5kg L. Pleased.
S - assisted one arm hangs. Embarrassingly awful, -13kg best 7s hang on either side...was after supper so could maybe knock a kilo off but still. Only just got the set done at -15kg right and failed last couple onleft. Ugh. Need to work on this.

70kg

[shark]

11.5-7 Average 160.6 (down 0.2lbs )

M. Tor with Ewa. Chilly. Better weather than expected. Good scenes. Incongruously Johnny Dawes bolted a direct on Push Up and was trying to wind Ben Moon up.Felt strong warming up and got through the first two hard moves on Bens straight off. Linked to foot tap a couple of times then got through that and almost got the cross through. Couple of goes from the start. Had a go at top roping Sardine but fell off the old skool way. Then had a hard time trying it the reachy nu school way. Tried Tin Of but could only do it with falls. Stamina seems to have deserted me. Anyway much better on Bens. Morale boosting session as so much better on it than dismal previous Monday session benefitting from the mini layoff.

T. AM 5 sets of 4 fast/power pull-ups with +5kg. Chest to bar 4x4 first two sets and 3x4 last three sets. Inc a set underhand gripping next time
Eve Max hangs. Pretty good but done for again by the time I got to drags

W.

T. AM FB warm up. Burbage North. Sunny when I parked up but lucked out and it clouded over when I started climbing. Re-familiarised with Blind Date. Toe kept slipping off on the second move most of the session not helped by wearing varifocals so couldn’t see it properly. Change of shoe worked a treat and had a few goes rocking up on it and going for or tickling left slot. Had to cut session short to get back for an online speed awareness course.

F. PM Tempted to head back to Burbage but ended up at the Tor. Got gradually colder. Showed Ethan how to tape his split. Messed about on Bens and did ok but felt like I was pissing about. Best link was holding pocket and edge to almost holding pinch on cross through. Didn’t try start. Team on Tin Of so only got one burn on that with cold fingers. Took dog for a walk.
Eve. 6 sets of 3 pull up with +32.5kg then deadlifted 125,130,135 and 140kg. Failed to budge 142.5kg.

S. Grim weather AM A quick dabble to confirm I wasn’t recovered enough to do a max hangs session

S. Grim weather PM Systems board. Warm up. 3 x gaston sequence. 3 good goes on uncompleted Oak AnCap circuit. Possible all time high point on first go. AeroCap 20/10’s timing 2 secs between moves for first 30 moves of each set - 5 mins rest between sets. Ground to a halt on move 59 of third set.

Better week.

[tomtom]

Decent gainzzz there Duma... I found for the assisted one armers - warming up and how quickly I got into the hard weights made quite a difference. 5-10 min of Theraband on the shoulders - then I’d go from -16 > -10 > -8 > -6 then start taking off individual kg... seemed to give better results.. I’d then do maybe 2 reps at the max and then I’d drop off a cliff and not even manage another even adding another 5-6kg of assist..

I’ve stopped the 1arm PU training as the golfers on my right elbow is flaring a bit worryingly...

Mon: Rest

Tues: Determined to go out - headed out to Stronstrey Bank early - but started raining when I got there. Gah. Went home - went on the board for 45 min or so - then it looked decent out - so went to the quarries to play on the latest project - but wasn’t feeling it... anyway glad I got out.

Weds: Decided to try some two armed isometric hangs.. 6 x 30 secs at 90 deg bend. Certainly felt it...

Thurs: Met up with Dolly and Nai at the Eaglestone.... I got there about 40 min before them and got close on the 7A on the sunny side. Even getting a hand over the top - onto a spoogy top. Boo. Played on the impossible mantle at the end of the 7A+ nearest the path... nope. Still can’t do it. Nai ventured up the descent route and confirmed it was all damp/slippy on top.
We bailed to Flatworld - and I couldn’t really do anything on that or FW left hand (man thats a hard press out..). Went to look at ‘poppers’ - which looked like a great problem but none of us could get past holding the pinch - which was OK to get and hold - but seemingly impossible to move on..
Down to the WalnutWhip where I failed on an apparently easy 7A... Bah. Bit of a crappy day in some ways.. Conditions were not brilliant - no wind and a fair bit of damp / dew still on the rock in places - and my skin felt slick (anti hydral the night before maybe the culprit?). 

Friday: Looked mega out. Fuck. Picked the wrong day to go out with Thursday... skin too thin to climb from the day before... Anyway, another 6 x 30 secs of the isometrics.. burn burn burn...

Sat; Weather: Turd. Good 90 min board session.

Sun: Weather: Still turd. Alright 45 min board session on new jugs (cheers Rick).

Some takeaways:
1. Avoiding the 1 arm pull ups has let my golfers elbow really calm down - nothing today. Time to start doing the prehab exercises and get back to it in a few weeks.
2. I reset the feet on my board 4-5 weeks ago to 15mm dinks - and I still can only get up 1 or 2 problems (aside from warm ups) - I’ve bought some larger (20mm) core edges so something just a little bit better as it was getting really frustrating not being able to do anything really...
3. Jugs on the board instead of just crimps... means I can now do large moves between big holds with shit feet - as well as medium moves between small holds with shit feet. Gives quite a different work out. (And its stopped my fingers feeling a teeny bit tweaky).

[Duma]

Decent gainzzz there Duma... I found for the assisted one armers - warming up and how quickly I got into the hard weights made quite a difference. 5-10 min of Theraband on the shoulders - then I’d go from -16 > -10 > -8 > -6 then start taking off individual kg... seemed to give better results.. I’d then do maybe 2 reps at the max and then I’d drop off a cliff and not even manage another even adding another 5-6kg of assist..
I’ve stopped the 1arm PU training as the golfers on my right elbow is flaring a bit worryingly...

Cheers tt, interesting you go in so quick, I'd been thinking I was taking too long to get to the big efforts (hence the change) but I'd not be comfortable with your rate of increase.
My session goes:
2 arm pull ups with elastic assistance, two sets, 3-5 reps
2 arm pull ups no assistance, two sets 3-5 reps
1 armers -15kg and elastic assistance, 2 reps each arm
Then one rep each arm at
-15, -13, -11, -9, -7.5, -6.25, -5.5, then 0.5 off each time.
I normally do 3 or 4 more pulls each side as I put the weights back on.
I used to do two reps on the first three (with rest between).

...now I write it down it looks like loads! But I'd def need more than three pulls before the hard stuff.

[tomtom]

Thinking about it I normally do a few (half dozen?) pull ups with both arms. And a lot depends how creaky I feel. May do a couple more at the max assist. But yes - I pull more weight going in hard. No more than ten reps each arm.

One thing I found that really helped with the low weights is adding weights (in my pockets) rather than taking off. So I get down to 10kg assist then add weights to get down to equivalent 4kg assist. I’m more comfortable with this as I’m still pushing down the same weight on my foot loop. When I drop loads on the assist (eg 4kg) it’s quite a transition in technique not just weight.

I’ve later found out this is what the lattice people suggest at first (I think).

But my elbow may mean I’ve overdone it! 😀

[gollum]

One thing I found that really helped with the low weights is adding weights (in my pockets) rather than taking off. So I get down to 10kg assist then add weights to get down to equivalent 4kg assist. I’m more comfortable with this as I’m still pushing down the same weight on my foot loop. When I drop loads on the assist (eg 4kg) it’s quite a transition in technique not just weight.

I find this is a really good plan for me, as it prevents the rotation around my shoulders and without the added weight and, therefore, the reasonable amount of assistance I end up just rolling out of the position.

[Will Hunt]

Caught a bit of a cold for much of the week. Plus Zoom meetings in the evening on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and prep for them on the evenings in between. Didn't get a great deal done.

W - started to feel a bit lousy and couldn't tell whether it was mood or illness. Went out for a short cycle and figured out it was the start of some cold symptoms.

T - Bit of a cough since the previous days exercise. Went for a Covid test to be sure.

F - Test results negative so just a mild cold.

S - Shite weather.

S - Shite weather. Board sesh in the evening. Was just trying to set a couple of projects but connies in the garage were a bit claggy. Got one set, need to sort another.

[spidermonkey09]

M - week off work so went out to Gardoms. After warming up I managed to drop Marks Roof with hand on the final crimp. Easily the closest I'd come and after a long rest it went and felt pretty steady all the way. Glad I don't have to do that again, that finish is grim. Moved along to Kidneystone to try Nai's beta. Could see how it worked but tried a different sequence which immediately felt like the one. Dialled in the top half and 5 minutes later pulled on and did it! Well psyched with this as it felt nails last winter. Really psyched so went exploring; found Bin Laden's Cave and flashed it before doing a circuit around Apple Arete- Dirty Business probably the highlight. Tried Fearful Orange which felt really good but really nails; couldn't finish off but still a really good day.

T - Horrible grey claggy weather. Intended to second a few trad routes at the Roaches but Pedestal Route was so grim we sacked it and went for a walk. I hate trad climbing in the winter!

W - rest.

T - Curbar. Nice easy circuit around Little Quarry followed by a brief play on Walk On By. Couldn't do the first move with sore skin but i like the look of it; one to persevere with. Moved on quickly becase Matt did it 3rd go of the day and had a few goes on Sean's Arete. Bit further than last time but couldn't find the balance. Brilliant sunset after claggy conditions all day.

F - Baslow. Beautiful day. Nice circuit along the edge to start, did Balls Test which was fantastic as was Hot Ziggerty, although quite spooky up high. Went over to Flatworld. Felt miles off to start but started tickling the sidepull and got it once when I really focused on the left arm lockoff. A long rest and next go I really pointed right foot sideways into the starting pocket. Latched the sidepull and got left foot on before going to the top. Great problem and really pleased to do it in a session. Perhaps a grit 7C isn't so far away. Finished off with the brilliant 6B arete next to Flatworld and a few problems on the Eaglestone before cows stopped play. Another great day out.

S - nothing. Drinking in evening on a zoom call.

S - rest again; couldn't be bothered to go out in crap weather. Should have trained but decided to indulge on last day off.

Really good week with some great gritstone days and hardest problem of the year so far; much better than the last week of leave in October. Back to work this week so back on the training. Walls open later in the week so hopefully will get there if not too busy. Psyched for gritstone bouldering but its the weather that is the limiting factor currently!

[tomtom]

Great week there Spidermonkey. Flatworld is a great tick. 👏👏 Hard...

[nai]

Good work, Spidermonkey. nice to have Mark's Roof behind you

M - Burbage North
All the warm up blocks taken, not enjoying lockdown.
Few cracks at Striker Left Hand, almost getting the distance but generating too much outward, not enough upward, momentum.
Dolly arrived and we went to Asylum Sika, couldn't touch it. Then monochrome, usual for me, too reachy, got a bit frustrated and we decided to ghost this block from now
Off to a nicely familiar Remergence to have a dabble on Blind Ali, something that has gone completely under my radar, never even considered trying it, even when I've seen videos I've forgotten about it when there. Somehow I managed to do the hardest moves straight away but was struggling with the pull-on.

T Roche. More frustrating on Faith Left Hand. Actually did the moves early on when I found just the right position, felt easy but then couldn't repeat it.

W rest

Th - what tt said.
After he left I tried the 7B traverse a bit, felt close, decided it needed a better day, but given a better day you'd be elsewhere...
Headed back to Burbage to try the start of blind Ali, couldn't pull on the start, sure connies would help, but managed one move in into the undercut.
Young people arrived and got a bit close so headed to Striker again, few ok sighters then a foot slip and hand greasing put me on my back winded twice so I called it a day

F - about 10am bent down to pick the washing basket up (didn't actually lift it) and felt my back tighten up. Oops, was working that afternoon, only third shift, involves lots of lifting and carrying. Stuck a weight belt on and hoped for the best.

S -  same again, was getting bad towards then end, very glad to finish without being busted. Lots of stretching and mobility pm

S lots more stretching and mobility.

[gollum]

W/C 23/11/2020

M - Norwood Edge, chest, abs, yoga
T - Triceps, yoga, abs, Buckstone
W - Ilkley, back, abs, yoga
T - Caley, abs, biceps, yoga
F - Ilkley, abs, shoulders, yoga
S - Ilkley, yoga
S - Finger benchmarks, yoga

Last week of this lockdown, so need to see if I can keep it all going both with the training and getting out to do stuff.


M - Go up to Norwood Edge for a first time visit. Bit of a bushwhack to get there but seems a pretty cool place. Have a go at some of the problems on Bankside Boulder with some successes and some failures. Feels like a tough old place, but definitely one to come back to. It’s pretty cold mind and when sun goes in enthusiasm is well and truly sapped.
Chest day today. Start with 5x20 press-ups which is indeed much more taxing than 10x10. Follow this up with 3x10 paused press-ups with hands on blocks to force a greater depth of press. Flys lying on the floor next for 3x8, which work surprisingly well as prevent the use of any elasticity in the chest so each rep becomes a proper move. Single arm floor presses for 3x12 on each arm. TRX for Ys and Ts for 3x8 with a good static hold on each rep. Finish with a superset of 3x8 band presses and 3x8 band flys.
For abs and core do 50 reps on the ab roller and three sets of 3 of the quasi-dragon flag.
Yoga today was back and chest focused, which was well timed and helpful.

T - Tricep training in the morning. Start off with overhead tricep goblet press for 10x10 using a German Volume pattern. 3x12 close grip dumbbell presses to follow. Move on to 3x8 Tate presses with a band and then single arm band press downs for 3x10 reps. French presses for 3x12 reps. Finish with tricep kick backs for 3x10 with a really light weight. First time I’ve ever thought this a useful exercise, must have been trying to use too heavy weights.
Today’s yoga session is hip orientated.
Abs roller for 50 reps with a pause, which felt tough but is definitely progress. Overall not a bad start to the day.
Lots of domestic stuff to do, but on way home I nip in at Buckstone Edge for a quick session. Very windy and stuff above the road is still damp but get quick ticks of Micky Luv and Papa Lazaro which seem pretty straight forward.

W - Head up to Ilkley. Get to crag and it’s raining but not at all misty so head to Calf and it’s absolutely bone dry. Get a decent session in. Repeating benchmarks and working on other stuff. Power to weight ratio is most definitely improving.
Weights is back day and hopefully the lady one before I can get back in a proper gym, as this is the day I seem to struggle the most with in terms of meaningful training. Start off with 10x10 pull-ups with minimal tests between sets, probably 29-30 seconds. Follow this with straight arm dumbbell pullovers for 3x12. Next is 3x12 dumbbell leaning rows. Again finish with a superset of pulls to the face for 3x10 and band single arm pull downs for 3x10. Making the best of what I’ve got, but looking forward to deadlifts and heavy pull downs.
For abs do 4x25 on the ab roller, which feels hard work.
Yoga focuses on chest and back mobility.
More elbow planche practice and I can get into position but just can’t hold it for long as yet.

W - Go up to Caley in the morning, most of which is still damp. Do get to finally tick the easiest problem on the Horn, despite using the wrong (poorer) handhold. Before success manage to land flat on my back from the top.  After success do it again from the right hold and it’s much easier that way. Then go on to work on the left arête and a version which uses the pocket but not the right arête. All good fun for such a small piece of rock.
Get home and do 50 reps on the abs roller.
Move on to weights which is biceps today. Start with 3x12 wide grip curls, followed by 3x12 narrow grip curls with a barbell. Move on to 3x10 standing alternate hammer curls. 3x10 standing regular curls and finish off with 3x8 Zottman curls.
Today’s yoga session is based around hip mobility with a bit of back and shoulders too.

F - Head up to Ilkley in the morning. It’s in great nick. Go down to Lost Boots area. Warm up on some of the easier problems and then begin what could turn into quite a long siege of First Arête. Feels like I’m neither flexible enough nor my fingers are strong enough, so may take a while. Do remember that I always found it tough. Eventually skin starts to wear as I pull on the crystals so head off hone.
For abs today I do a steady 3x20 paused reps with the abs roller and some lever progression exercises.
Shoulder training today. Start with 3 sets of heavy strict single arm shoulder presses. Follow this with 3x10 kettlebell shoulder presses with a much lower weight. Finish presses with 3x8 stability kettlebell presses. Move on to band lateral raises for 3x8 per side. Next is band reverse flys for 3x10 and finish band work with 3sets of front raise with isometric hold to failure. Finish off completely with a superset of lateral raises and front raises with plates.
Today’s yoga is core focused with some flow thrown in for good measure.

S - Cracking early morning session on the Calf. Place deserted when I arrive and daylight just coming. Work on lots of stuff before hands get too cold. Do need to sort the start moves out though. Remember these feel nails in the wrong position but easy in the right one, just haven’t put the effort In yet and I need to work them out, as being able to do lots of problems from one move in, isn’t going to cut it.
Today’s online yoga is very shoulder orientated, which seems to loosen mine quite a lot, so is well timed.

S - Rest day with just finger strength benchmarking and yoga with Mrs B later on, which focused very much on hip mobility.

Not a bad week and whilst not ticked off anything that I’d wanted to do for a while (except maybe The Horn), have been doing bits and bobs and started work on a few things for the future.
Been the last week of hypertrophic based training, which seems to have been possible to continue in last four weeks with only some compromise, although obviously deadlifts have been out. Fairly sure I couldn’t have worked on recruitment whilst training at home.
Weight is still falling nicely and that’s bringing dividends.
Mentally speaking, a solid routine has helped manage anxiety which is always a positive thing.
Think I’m in a good place in lots of ways at the moment.

[steveri]

F - Baslow. Beautiful day. Nice circuit along the edge to start, did Balls Test which was fantastic as was Hot Ziggerty, although quite spooky up high...

I think we had a distanced chat - I was pottering around under Renaissance - was it you walking back along the top late in the day? Cracking day, looks productive for you!

[spidermonkey09]

Great week there Spidermonkey. Flatworld is a great tick. 👏👏 Hard...

Cheers! I was surprised, as is always the way it felt ok on the go. Your one arm training will work wonders for it I think as the problem seemed to boil down to being solid on that left arm while I found the position on the top sidepull. Key was also to really carefully place right foot perpendicular to the block/pointing back towards Curbar in the pocket. Hope that makes sense...

Was interested in the left hand as the high pocket looked appealing. There are no videos of this, whats the sequence? RH on the flatty to start I presume?

[spidermonkey09]

F - Baslow. Beautiful day. Nice circuit along the edge to start, did Balls Test which was fantastic as was Hot Ziggerty, although quite spooky up high...

I think we had a distanced chat - I was pottering around under Renaissance - was it you walking back along the top late in the day? Cracking day, looks productive for you!

Quite possibly, can't remember seeing anyone when we were around Renaissance but would have been us walking back in the dusk. Beautiful day wasnt it...bit different to the weekend!

[Plattsy]

Great week there Spidermonkey. Flatworld is a great tick. 👏👏 Hard...

Cheers! I was surprised, as is always the way it felt ok on the go. Your one arm training will work wonders for it I think as the problem seemed to boil down to being solid on that left arm while I found the position on the top sidepull. Key was also to really carefully place right foot perpendicular to the block/pointing back towards Curbar in the pocket. Hope that makes sense...

Was interested in the left hand as the high pocket looked appealing. There are no videos of this, whats the sequence? RH on the flatty to start I presume?

Might be some here

[JohnM]

Weight: 10st6lbs

M: Tried a 24 hour fast starting after dinner the night before. Felt agitated and unable to concentrate all day! Partly this was a bit of an experiment, a response to over eating and drinking all weekend and also to see if I could gain the edge I needed to finish my nemesis route in the week! Weighted pull ups in the PM. Found out my 1 rep max was around 30kg and decided to do a pyramid set around this. With weights I used to do it in sets of 80%, 70% and 60% of the 1RP but for pull ups I have found that I can't do it. It seems to work if I do the same percentages but taking the percentage of each drop in weight. Therefore, I did 3 sets of 3 at 24kg (80% of 1RP), 4 sets of 5 at 17kg (70% of 24kg) and 3 sets of 8 at 10kg (60% of 17kg) *rounding applied. I was quite pleased with the session and felt fairly solid despite not being able to pull much weight relative to my body weight. An international team coach told me +50% body weight should be the entry level minimum! My current 1RP is approx. +45% body weight.

T: Trail running 12km with 530m height gain.

W: I was 1kg lighter on the scales in the morning so the fast and meal reductions on Mon/Tues has worked to a certain degree. Warm-up at home and then drive to the nemesis project (Hyperfreiflug, 8a+). Think I mentioned this in the last Power Club. Most 8a+'s seem to take me on average 2 or 3 tries whereas this one I just can't seem to get up the thing! I am now on 6 sessions plus. In some ways it is quite nasty with some sharp crimps at the start but it actually has some cool and unusual moves so I have decided now is the time to try and get this thing done as it is local and I am restricted to climbing with my girlfriend. Anyway, both our work calls overran so by the time we got there there was only an hour of sunlight left. I had time for one good go where I finally got through the lower crux for the first time which is shared with the 7c+ exit to the route (I did actually feel quite light on the crimps). However, I didn't get too far up the headwall on the 8a+ finish and my left arm wilted on a long move out right to get a small sidepull crimp. The saga continues!

T: Thursday was my 37th birthday and I was determined to continue a new tradition I had started the year before and run at least the number of kilometers as my age. The weather was perfect but unfortunately I had developed some kind of gum/tooth ache near one of my wisdom teeth which was agony and had kept me up most of the night before. I set off anyway with the Brandjochkreuz (2268m) as my first target. I tried to get up this on my birthday last year but had to turn around in extremely deep snow including falling through a buried tree! This year I made it up there after a tough 3 hours! Being above 2000m seemed to exacerbate my tooth ache but I was determined to stay up as high as possible and to traverse a bit of the range without dropping too much altitude. Eating an energy bar was agony! Eventually I had to drop down anyway as the trail along the ridge became treacherous with wind blown snow that had packed into ice. In the end I made 38km so was happy even though it was really slow. My planned birthday meal had to be postponed due to lack of ability to chew but I did manage ice cream and cake!

F: After being awake all night in pain again a trip to the emergency dentist in the hospital was in order. After an x-ray and a two hour wait, as I suspected, the dentist said it was an infected gum around the wisdom tooth as it is only partially emerged. He gave me an injection deep into my jaw although it didn't seem to anaesthetise the right area and then proceeded to cut part of my gum off with a scalpel. He said it wouldn't hurt and that I would only feel a slight pressure. This was completely untrue and the pain reached levels at the white-hot end of the spectrum! He packed the hole with some kind of gauze which I was meant to keep in for 3 days and sent me on my way with a consultancy appointment on the 1st March to potentially have my wisdom teeth removed. I was going to train assisted one armers in the PM but found myself napping on the sofa instead!

S: Cycling to Hinterhornalm, an Alm high above the valley with one of the best outlooks around. Nice weather to be out but it feels too cold for cycling to me! Tried to eat a Cliff bar and the gauze the dentist had packed into my mouth fell out. 47km with 1186m of height gain.   

S: Back on the nemesis project (Hyperfreiflug 8a+). Season 3, session 3! It was brutally cold with the temperature not shifting above 0 all day and no sun. However, this session was even better than the previous one and I got through the lower crux twice only to fall a move higher each time on the headwall. The second time I was probably one move away from where I wouldn't drop it. Even though this is becoming a ridiculous amount of sessions for the grade I am determined to finish this route this winter now. Hopefully on a slightly warmer day I will have a bit more in my fingers for finish the moves on the headwall!

Video of the lower crux shared by both the 7c+ and 8a+ version below.

[teestub]

Found out my 1 rep max was around 30kg and decided to do a pyramid set around this. With weights I used to do it in sets of 80%, 70% and 60% of the 1RP but for pull ups I have found that I can't do it. It seems to work if I do the same percentages but taking the percentage of each drop in weight.

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding this, but for working out percentages away from 1 rep max on pull ups, I use bodyweight plus the added weight, so 80% would be around +10kg, assuming you weigh 67 kg.

[tomtom]

Great week there Spidermonkey. Flatworld is a great tick. 👏👏 Hard...

Cheers! I was surprised, as is always the way it felt ok on the go. Your one arm training will work wonders for it I think as the problem seemed to boil down to being solid on that left arm while I found the position on the top sidepull. Key was also to really carefully place right foot perpendicular to the block/pointing back towards Curbar in the pocket. Hope that makes sense...

Was interested in the left hand as the high pocket looked appealing. There are no videos of this, whats the sequence? RH on the flatty to start I presume?

Yup. Rh on flatty - left foot on the ledge at low chest height a way out left. Press it out - intermediate shit edge on the way - to the slot/pocket. There’s a video of SteveR pathing it...

Re Foot on flatworld - you mean as if front pointing the pocket the nearer pocket (to the arête).

[Coops_13]

M: 50 ab-wheel roll-outs. 100 press-ups

T: Pull. Weighted pull-ups up to +70lb X3 *5sets. Isometric holds 30s 90 and 120deg *2sets. Eccentric bicep and wrist curls

W: Density Hangs. 22mm -30lb 30s *5sets. Push. Bench press up to 165lb X6 *5sets. Incline press 145lb X6 *3sets. Strict shoulder press, lateral raise, front raise

T: Bar Core.

S: Warmed up slowly on problems up to V3. Tried Face Out V5 but too crimpy for LH. Went to First Overhang V5+, tried first move a coupe of times then sent the problem. Airy crux at top on tiny crimps hurt LH a lot. Pain gone within minutes though. Drove up Boulder Canyon to check out snowy boulders then went home


Left hand/wrist not feeling good so likely gonna take a week or two off. Lumbrical strain from a month ago developed into this weird tendon pain - think it's just irritation. Pain manifests in pulleys and wrist (I think flexor retinaculum area).

[Sasquatch]

M-RP's in AM, low motivation so no PM session.
T-Density Hangs in AM, Warmed up on MB in PM, but sacked off to spend time w wife and daughter.  Also felt like  during warmup.
W-PM-Boulder at Wall. Decent session worked two x 7C+/8A.  did all moves but one on first.  Did all moves on second.
T-Weights - Heavy Split squats (150lbs), then weighted pushups(60#), and weighted bird dogs(60#)
F-AM-RP's, PM-Boulder at wall. new cave set. flashed up to 7B+, then 7C, then worked 7C+
S-Snow Bike - 2.5 hours
S-AM-Boulder at wall, fell off top of 7C+ in cave 4 times, PM-repeaters.

Week not quite to plan, but still decent.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Lattice Edge, easy session at -5 kg long hangs. Then some testing up to BW LH and +3 RH. Pull ups, TB DL 90 kg, snatch rack pulls 60 kg x10 x5. Beautiful session.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Lattice Edge, easy session at -5 kg, lots of hangs, then test at +2 LH and +6 RH short hang, then BW, then -4 kg. Chuffed. Weights.
Tue - Lattice Edge, easy session at -5 kg. Some BW hangs for RH. High pulls, snatch pulls. TBDL back up to 140 kg yay! Then TBDL 30" finisher at 70 kg. Then farmer's 4' total. Extremely pleased.
Fri - rest.
Sat - system pinch session with back2 hangs. Weights, snatch grip rack pulls 10x10 60 kg.
Sun - 20' of loaded carries 1/1.

Very happy about repeating my DL PB, and about fingers.

[cheque]

T: Thursday was my 37th birthday

Cool, we have the same birthday!
I hope your gum’s doing OK.

[JohnM]

Found out my 1 rep max was around 30kg and decided to do a pyramid set around this. With weights I used to do it in sets of 80%, 70% and 60% of the 1RP but for pull ups I have found that I can't do it. It seems to work if I do the same percentages but taking the percentage of each drop in weight.

Sorry if I’m misunderstanding this, but for working out percentages away from 1 rep max on pull ups, I use bodyweight plus the added weight, so 80% would be around +10kg, assuming you weigh 67 kg.

I just work out the percentages on the weight added. +10kg would be too light for the 3 sets of 3. What I worked out seems to work nicely at the moment and I failed towards the end of the last set so it is probably the right intensity.

[JohnM]

T: Thursday was my 37th birthday

Cool, we have the same birthday!
I hope your gum’s doing OK.

Belated happy birthday! Yeah going ok thanks. I manage to get through most nights now without painkillers!

[teestub]

I just work out the percentages on the weight added. +10kg would be too light for the 3 sets of 3. What I worked out seems to work nicely at the moment and I failed towards the end of the last set so it is probably the right intensity.

Yeah using a rep calculator, for failure at 3 reps you’d want 93% of your 1RM load, so adding 23kg, so looks like you got it exactly right!