UKBouldering.com

Tanker??? - Tank Boulder - Wimberry (Read 1472 times)

JamieG

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1284
  • Karma: +80/-0
Tanker??? - Tank Boulder - Wimberry
November 20, 2020, 01:41:07 pm
According to this old topo of wimberry boulders (http://kevinthaw.kahrlconsulting.com/Misc/Hard%20Grit/Wim-boulder.htm) there is supposed to be a problem called Tanker (number 26) at around 7a ish on the downhill face of the Tank boulder between Think Tank and the project dyno. It isn't mentioned in any other guides (as far as I know) and I've looked at that face many times and thought it looked basically impossible. So was really surprised there is supposed a line on it.

So when I was out for a walk this morning I decided to have a proper look again and it looks totally nails to me. There are a couple sets of okay looking undercuts to get started (feet don't look great) but then it looks really blank before joining the top of think tank. Maybe there is a crimpy/pinch type thing for your left hand that you could do a desperate pull through on but it looks hard. The whole face is fairly overhanging. There is a decent ish foothold between the two sets of undercuts that looks like its been used quite a bit but not sure what for. Maybe people on think tank.

This photo shows the lower undercuts and the crimpy thing higher I'm talking about. Also the foothold right in the middle to the right of the undercuts. https://cdn.ukc2.com/i/324423.jpg

Does any one have any knowledge on this? Has it broken? I couldn't see any obvious scars. If there is a line there it could be a nice hard addition to Wimberry.

EDIT - fixed the photo link.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2020, 01:50:38 pm by JamieG »

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9935
  • Karma: +561/-8
#1 Re: Tanker??? - Tank Boulder - Wimberry
November 20, 2020, 01:49:32 pm
On a similar note there's a highball 7a+ groove at Running Hill Pits of Kevin Thaw's, which also is a massive sandbag at the grade and may be unrepeated. Looks excellent though.
Sorry, no idea re Tanker.

JamieG

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1284
  • Karma: +80/-0
#2 Re: Tanker??? - Tank Boulder - Wimberry
November 20, 2020, 02:11:57 pm
Is that the thing in Eight Quarry literally called "The Groove"? If so my brother and I have tried it and didn't get very far. Agree though it looks amazing.

JamieG

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1284
  • Karma: +80/-0
#3 Re: Tanker??? - Tank Boulder - Wimberry
November 20, 2020, 02:22:58 pm
Maybe similar to Ditch Diggin at Alderman too.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27107.msg621505.html#msg621505

I think that is Kevin Thaw problem and seems sandbag. Not sure if its ever been repeated either.

Thanks for the info anyway Bonjoy. Hopefully someone will have some information. Does Dense ever post anymore? Didn't he know all the Chew crags really well?

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9935
  • Karma: +561/-8
#4 Re: Tanker??? - Tank Boulder - Wimberry
November 20, 2020, 02:29:16 pm
Pretty sure Dense had no wisdom to share on The Groove.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9935
  • Karma: +561/-8
#5 Re: Tanker??? - Tank Boulder - Wimberry
November 20, 2020, 02:33:19 pm
There's  a lot to be said for putting the effort in to demystify things like these. Have often found class problems hidden under bad descriptions and grades. Sometimes it turns out the line is off and there's scope for new harder probs or better direct versions.

JamieG

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1284
  • Karma: +80/-0
#6 Re: Tanker??? - Tank Boulder - Wimberry
November 20, 2020, 02:49:17 pm
Definitely. Mark20 just put a video of Mike Adam's beta for Ditch Diggin in the other thread and it seems like a right palm might be the key. Will have to get back up and try that again.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal