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Opposition, Stanage North (Read 1163 times)

diba

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Opposition, Stanage North
November 20, 2020, 10:46:59 am
Had a go at this yesterday but didnt get very far. We were trying left hand palming off the hanging left hand wall on a bump just above the lip, left foot on a low rail, right foot really high in a little dish...and from this position felt pretty stuck and with the target pocket looking very far away.

This seem like the right idea?

Having failed to do the start, we climbed in from the arete to the right of the groove, starting at the obvious slopey jug and then swinging out to join opposition. Is this an established variation on opposition? Made sense as a problem, avoids the desperate start of opposition and has nice moves. Felt about 7A+ish.

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: Opposition, Stanage North
November 20, 2020, 11:24:27 am
It's a long time since I was on this but that sounds about right. Kim who climbed it first is very tall, I recall not being able to reach via his beta.
I've done that traverse in that you mention and got as far as the top of the up bit on Opposition, but to my knowledge it's not been linked as a traverse going all the wall to Chip Shop Brawl. Would make a goo hard link finishing up CSB!

diba

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#2 Re: Opposition, Stanage North
November 20, 2020, 12:36:11 pm
Ok cheers! Yes definitely felt a little morpho that move. Agree would make for a good link. Will have to try next time I find myself there

 

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