[Will Hunt]

Mon - p90x ab ripper. BRING IT!

Wed - the exercise routine that gives the OPPORTUNITY to get the BEST, MOST RIPPED abdominal area you've ever had in your life.

Fri - lamp sesh at Brimham. Warmed up a bit prior then hopped onto Green Nose on arrival. Figured out the top bit and then did. I never want to touch this miserable little boulder again. Then the Fonze. Tried the new heel-over-hand beta and stuck the left hand bump move. Spent some time trying to get Bilge Pump (the finish) properly sussed with a little success but still not dialled. Then played on the start and did a link from the start to getting heel on ready to initiate the left hand bump. I've basically done all the moves on it now so that feels like great progress but I'm still cautious about committing to it entirely. I think I need another session trying to get the moves well dialled before thinking about trying to redpoint. Skin a bit trashed now so will need a week off grit bouldering.

Sat - fam walks. Did some light BD core exercises and some stretching in the evening.

Sun - an hour on the bike. Hard work in the wind but glad I got out. Then a couple of hours family walk carrying a baby in a rucksack along the top of Ruin Bank Woods.


I'm quite taken with the idea of getting a pair of shoes that I can actually toe hook in without destroying the shoe (Miura VSs get destroyed at the first sign of a hook). A good heel would be nice too. Need the walls to reopen so I can try on the Skwamas and the Instincts.

[shark]

11.5-7 Average 159.6 (up 0.6lbs )

M. Eve. Checked out 1RM pull-up. Managed +40kgs and failed at +45kgs. Thought that was ok then found Tommy can do 7reps @ +40kg and probably weighs 5kg more.

T. AM Ewa was twitchy so headed out to check out Tor. Condensed as predicted. Took dogs for a walk.
Eve. Fast / power pull ups 5sets of 5 pull-ups with +5kg. Will reduce to 4 pull-ups next time as markedly slower on the 5th and right elbow slightly twingy following day

W.

T. AM. FB warm up. Nice day at last. Tor. Ethan said my vintage 90s skiing headband looked cool. He was wearing a Rasta one. We is headband homies now.
Bens without. Usual drill. Slight improvement on hard section doing an extra move failing on kick to niche.
Showed a newcomer the moves on Bens. She did the ‘throw’ move static! Would love to be able to do that. Theo got Staminaband.
Led Tin Of clean putting draws in and TRed it twice clean with considerable effort. Wiped out when got home.

F. Still wiped but a nice day again so popped out to Stanage with Ewa and dogs for a bit of easyish soloing. Windy.

S. PM Lengthy max hang session on ergo edge. Decent scores. Tired after.
Eve. Weighted pull up session. 6 sets of 3 with +30kg. No tweaks. 3 normal deadlifts. Not done these for ages. Pleased to do 140kg though it was the slowest lift ever.

S.


Decided to have another stint of trying pull-ups. Typically have tried offset or assisted 1armers in past but stopped due to tweaks. Going to do normal pull-ups this time alternating one session for power and the other for strength each week and see how it goes.
Not logged but have recently messed about lifting a dumbbell with my foot which seems to have helped with the toe hook move on Bens Without.

[Wood FT]

Theo got Staminaband.

It’s a shame you couldn’t give him a hug 🙂

[tomtom]

Power Club 557

Mon. Rest

Tues. Short session at Wilton 2 before it started raining. Working the SS to Purple Feel (a nice short quick drying smeary arête 7B) thats easier for the less tall person... didnt get very far before the rain but refined beta. Had an afternoon board session that was decent though.

Weds: A quick hour/90 min back at Wilton 2. Came bloody close on Purple Feel - but it has two droppable slaps (up the arête) and the four footholds are all smears - that need good conditions really, and it wasn’t on weds. Dropped the last hard move 3 or 4 times... 

Went home and did some assisted one arm hangs in the evening. Not done these for a while - on the big (two) pad slot starting with arm at about 120 degrees and just hold for 5 secs. Previous best was no assist. Quickly worked down to that - and ended up adding weight up to +3kg on both arms... a new record. Looks like those one arm pull ups are helping out here.

Thurs. Headache/Migraine - felt awful. Crashed out about 5:30 for an hour or two...

Fri: Felt shit still (same headache) but wanted to get out. Dared to journey over to the Peak. Went to Gardoms (about 11) and it was shite. Sheltered - damp and a bit condensed. Got a message from Nai that Plantation car park was deserted - and as it catches the wind headed there. Only 2 other cars - but BBG bridge was packed. Go. Figure.

Not been for ages - but both me and Nai were not on peak form and generally quite down about what to do... So  ended up trying Storm, Brad & Silk. Silk was too warm (in the sun) to start with so went onto Storm (shade) which I did better than last time - but not sure I’m flexible enough to wang my left toe/heel up there without doing some smeary shit with my right foot to get it there. BP (HAHAHAHAHA) our yearly try. Mercifully quiet and no witnesses. Still - did better than before. Heel up and tried to get in the right position to go up. Its pretty intensive on the right arm - which felt a bit tweaky after a bit so stopped. Silk - gah - well it clouded over so whilst the rock was (seriously) warm - it was better. had some decent attempts - including trying to actually climb it rather than slap and wang a toe on... one for a better day. Had fun with Nai trying all the slopey campus horrors just to the right... In the end a decent day - but felt like hard work. Headache persisted but earnt brownie points by doing bath and getting the nipper to sleep...

Sat: Woken at 6:37am by my car alarm going off... Arse.



They stuffed a rock from next doors front garden through the rear window and snatched by bouldering rucksack. I went and had a look around and noticed a security light on down the alley next to the houses - and followed a trail of breadcrumbs discarded scarpa’s, finger tape, chalk bag etc.. until I got everything. Except (as I found out today) my £20 Aldi action cam...

Rear window is £355 for the part. Or £350 insurance excess..... Anyway - a city tax as my neighbour calls it...

Well, I had a decent board session in the afternoon  - lasted nearly 2 hours.. then put up a couple of 20mm incut edges on my pulley/fingerboard set up and with one pad got to -4.5kg (very short session - didnt really have enough time) which is about 4kg better than last time I tried this...

Sun: Weather looked shite. I was planning to stay in all day - but my wife pushed me out of the door at 10 (honest!) so went back up to Wilton 2 - and after a quick rain shower managed to get Purple Feel done. Typically - phone ran out of space whilst recording (which is why I normally carry the other camera). Anyway - really good to get that done, I’ve been trying it for the last 5 years or so. The Stand 7A is piss for the taller person (I can run laps on it) but the sit is a much stiffer proposition - especially if a little taller, as I have to put in a couple of extra moves to keep it all in balance...

[cheque]

Plantation car park was deserted - and as it catches the wind headed there. Only 2 other cars - but BBG bridge was packed. Go. Figure.

Plantation’s P&D innit? You can usually get a space in there even when the verges are rammed.

[Duma]

M -
T - Assisted one armers, down to 5kg assistance left and 6kg right. Pleased as this equals best left and new pb right, especially considering not tried them since June.
W - Brean, first time back since July, unsurprisingly connies had improved somewhat...
Felt good on warm up and putting the clips in Storm Warning Variation (8a), sorted a slight beta tweak while up there, then did it next go. Did Storm Warning (7c/+) straight after, and a gratifyingly steady onsight of Root of Inequity (7a+) to warm down. Excellent day.
T - felt like I'd strained something in my right lat. DIY.
F - work, 12hr shift
S - work, 12hr shift
S - work, 12hr shift

70kg.

Light week, but really happy with weds, more for the feeling of having more in the tank than the ticks.
Back on emergency rota for the next few months so fewer but longer shifts - hard to train on days I work, but more days free to get out...

[gollum]

W/C 9/11/2020

Shit start to Saturday TT, my commiserations......bastards!!!

Top ticks on Wednesday Duma. Congratulations

M -Almscliffe (washout), chest, abs, yoga
T - Ilkley (marginally less of a washout, but its close) triceps, abs, yoga
W - Back, Almscliffe, abs, yoga, stretching
T - Ilkley, shoulders, abs, yoga
F - Biceps, Almscliffe, abs, yoga
S - Abs, yoga
S - Buckstone, Relaxation

A new week and goal is to keep structure I’ve been working to as far as possible but also to try and get out of house and to the crag as often as o can.

M - Head up to Almscliffe. The forecast is reasonable but when we get there it’s as wet as I’ve ever seen it with mist soaking everything. Wander around for a couple of hours, manage about ten foot of easy traversing and then go home. Who dares wins, I suppose, just not today.
Weights at home. Start with 10x10 press ups and 10x10 ab roller reps with a minute rest between sets. Move on to 4x10 single arm dumbbell presses, which are good for stability. Next is laid down band presses with W hold at the top for 3x8. Bands with flys next supersetting the band behind the back and in front of the chest, both of which seem to work the chest well. Use the TRX set up for 4x4 of probe Ts followed by 4x4 prone Ys. Finish chest doing 3x10 flys with resistance bands fixed to the top of the door.
Another slow and Blaine yoga session to help relaxation and working on flexibility.

T - Wander up to Ilkley and find it’s just above the cloud line and there is a decent breeze, so have some hope of finding dry rock, on the Calf if nowhere else. Most of holds are damp and bottom metre is wet so all footholds soaked. Can just about contrive a way of doing the easiest eliminate using only dry rock, so do that, then the mist comes in and I go home. Not the most successful couple of days seeking dry rock. May try for later in the day tomorrow.
Lifting today is for triceps. Start with 4x12 standing goblet tricep presses. Move on to 3x10 Tate presses using bands, which is something I had seen online and actually works really when. Next is close grip presses using a single dumbbell for 3x8 reps, followed by single arm overhead extensions using a kettlebell bell for 3x12. Using the fixed bands o them do kneeling tricep presses for 3x10, which definitely works the muscle differently than on the cables as there is no momentum and the tension increases as the rep progresses. Do 3x8 single arm dumbbell Tate presses and overhead single arm dumbbell extensions. Finish arms off with 5x10 diamond press ups.
For core and abs do 50 reps on the abs roller. Do about twenty minutes of lower limb stretches followed by twenty minutes of yoga for relaxation.

W - Decide to exercise when I get up to let crag dry a bit more, although looks good first thing so have more faith today.
Start off with 10x10 pull ups which feel awkward as use a narrower grip than o normally would, could be good to mix it up a bit though. Then do some pull ups with 20k added for 5x5. Do three sets of lever pulls, just to see how they are going and throw a bit of core in, then move on to rows for 3x8 with an isometric hold at the top of each rep which I superset with 3x8 single arm pull downs with a band. Finish with 3x10 band pulls to the face. Advantage of doing weights at home is I can do jobs while resting between sets, disadvantage of doing weights at home is that it’s a bit shit. Do feel like it’s done some good though.
Go up to Almscliffe and it’s so much better, with most of it dry when we arrive and all of it when we leave. Spend most of the session working on the long low traverse in the rift. Manage to get it pretty well sorted and get it sussed for two overlapping links. It certainly feels like the crux is halfway but that the bit near the end is very easy to drop. Wander down to South Cave and do some of the easier stuff down there followed by a very half arsed attempt on Patta’s Arête, followed by a bit of working on the low traverse. Good to actually get some climbing done.
When I get home I do my abs roller routine and finish off with some yoga for relaxation and mobility followed by some upper body stretches.

T - Go up to Ilkley in the morning, although I set off for West Chevin but it looks like it would still be wet. Have a play on some of the stuff in the Lost Boots area. Safe to say someone has been up and used a completely unnecessary amount of chalk in an attempt to dry the holds. First Arête, just looks atrocious. Finish off doing a couple of classic slabs in the quarry, which looks like a completely different place to how it did two days ago.
Shoulders today. Start with heavy strict shoulder presses for 3 sets, in which I manage one rep on first set and two on the next two sets. Drop the weight and then do 3x8 kettlebell shoulder presses, followed by 3x8 stability shoulder presses with a lighter weight again. Working through the various parts of the shoulder next. First is 3x8 lateral raises followed by 3x8 front raises and 3x8 reverse flys. Move onto a giant set with a band of lateral raises, front raises and reverse flys all for 3x8. Finish with scapular raises.
For abs doing 50 reps on the ab roller.
For flexibility I do 30 minutes of yoga.

F - Wet morning, so start with weights to see if it will clear. Bicep traverse Ning today. Start with 10x10 chin ups using GVT as the rest pattern. Move on to wide grip strict bar curls for 3x10. Follow this with close grip strict bar curls for 3x8. Then goblet curls with the kettlebell for 3x10. On to dumbbells and 3x10 hammer curls, followed by 3x10 standard curls and finish with 3x8 Zottman curls. Good session and think I have enough kit at home for a decent workout for all muscle groups apart from back and chest, but even those I think I have enough to maintain some strength.
Brightens up later and head up to Almscliffe in the late morning. Warm up on Low Man and then spend about an hour working on the harder version of Silver Trout. Manage to do all the moves but only manage the crucial slap the once. Slow progress is still progress, however. Before we go home, nip up to traverse near Si’s Arête again. Hands feel cold but work it more and get some big links, although on best go get to three moves from the end and can’t muster enough energy for last tough move. Happy to have done so much of it though. Head home happy.
At home  do 50 more abs roller reps before doing a twenty yoga session.

S - Abs in the morning. 3x20 reps with a pause at the bottom of each rep on the abs roller followed by 3x20 Russian twists so the obliques don’t get left behind.

S - Showers are forecast but take advantage of a break on them and nip up to Buckstone. Most of crag is dry but the wind is strong and the temperature low. Play around on the easy walks but can’t get warm so just explore a bit, finding lots of things I want to come back for. When the hail comes, I decide it’s time to give up and go home.
Zen yoga in the evening to relax, which also concentrated on chest and shoulder mobility which is something I need.

Manage to get out six days this week but only got to actually do any real climbing on three of those days, although do think just getting out at all is good for my spirits, which is what I’d aimed for at the start of the week.
Weight going in right direction, maintaining exercise plan and staying off the booze for the month going well at the moment.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: a new (to me) Font 7a outside


My week was shanked on Monday by closure of daughter's pre and after school provision (COVID case), and then her school year on Weds (COVID again), leaving me as teacher / parent / still trying to do my job hybrid.


Only things I managed were a few sessions of lunchtime YouTube yoga.

[spidermonkey09]

Bad luck TT. On the plus side the money you saved finding everything in the alley almost pays for the replacement window...

M - rest.

T - max hangs. 3kg assist. Managed a few full 7sec hangs on each arm but went downhill quickly after that. Felt pain in left shoulder, probably from crucifix move at start of eatswood traverse last week, so backed off. press ups felt fine though so did them again without feeling too worked.

W - core. First time in a long time, but not as bad as expected. Some stretching afterwards. Really stiff!

T - Anderson hangs. +2.5kg bodyweight on the crimps, which were ok, although I felt tired throughout. Nowhere on the slopers; conditions felt poor. more stretching.

F - rest.

S - drove to eatswood assuming it would be grim but dry. Turned up to find it soaked/condensed; either way unclimbable. Not pleased but decided against bring grumpy at home and instead went for a walk around Gardoms/Birchen. Barely rained all the way round but so humid nothing had a chance to dry.

S - better forecast. Drove to Tor to drop off drill with Ted then back to Curbar Gap. Attempted to warm up in Little Quarry but howling winds were not pleasant. Decided against original plan of Baslow and went to Gardoms instead. Did a few of arsedragging roof problems before doing my usual routine of falling off Mark's Roof a few times. Got closer than previously though. Walked over to South and did G Thang (brilliant) before briefly trying Suavito. Couldn't fathom big move up left to crimp on face; is there any short person beta for this other than jumping? Nai?! Went over to Jackalope and did this in the dying light; great problem. Good day out and nice to get some of that grit movement back.

Finally got a decent day out after a few false starts. Hopefully we get a better run of weekend weather soon.

[JohnM]

Yeah that is crappy luck TT. That happened to me a few times and nearly every time the cost of repairing the window/locks was more than what they took and I either didn't claim on the insurance to preserve the no claims bonus or they wouldn't pay out for the equipment. In Bangor they broke in and took all my trad gear. The insurance company said they only insured hobby equipment not sports equipment. I told them climbing was a hobby to me and not a sport but they disagreed. At Ina's rock in Staffs they broke in and stole some £5 trainers and the plastic SatNav stand (not the SatNav!?). In Liverpool they smashed the rear window and took nothing (might have just been random vandalism). 

Weight: 10st7lbs

M: Trail run 11km with 500m height gain.

T: Elbow rehab.

W: Climbing at Achleiten. Went on an 8a+ that I had tried a couple of times last year. It has a techy lower wall that can feel anywhere from 6b to 7b (I never climbed it the same!), a no hands rest and then a tough boulder with a hard dead point and then a high rockover and lock-off into an undercut and a pumpy finish. Surprisingly I could hit the dead point every time but then wilted out of the lock-off. Luckily, I did it 3rd go of the day and managed to shake my way to the top despite having a terminal pump in my left arm!

T: Trail run 12km 558m height gain.

F: MTBing. 30km with 1000m height gain.

S: Back to Achleiten. It was horrendously busy there and not at all Covid safe with people basically crawling all over each other on the ledge. I should have just left and felt a bit annoyed at myself afterwards for putting myself (and others if I happened to have Covid) at risk despite normally being quite careful. Anyway, found an 8b/+ to try that gets 3 stars in the guide. However, it turned out to be a bit crappy IMO. Struggled for ages on the middle section until someone told me that you just traverse around that bit via a thorn bush. The top section was good in the sense that it goes to the top of the crag and culminates in a wild move to a jug off very marginal holds but the rock wasn't great and there was a lot of sika holds around. Got halfway through the boulder at the top on my 3rd try but came off. I feel like I could probably do that route quite quickly but not sure if I would go back on it.

S: Big bike tour in the Karwendel mountains that have a wild feeling about them for Tirol even though there are gravel tracks though most of the main valleys. Ended up finishing in the dark and freezing cold after having to stop to rescue a German guy who had gone all the way out there without a pump or puncture repair kit. We found him walking miles from anywhere an hour before sunset, where everything was frozen and he had very poor clothing! 62km with 1200m of height gain.

A pretty good week despite no additional climbing training again. Annoyingly, I can't do much finger boarding at the moment as the tendon in my index finger is still very sore. I felt like I finally got my lung capacity back this week after 2-3 weeks of breathing out my arse anytime I did anything that became slightly aerobic. I am not sure if much outdoor climbing will happen now for the rest of the year. We are now officially in Lockdown 2.0 and the rules are a bit vague. No sports are officially banned this time but driving to crag certainly doesn't come under the essential reasons to leave the house and I have to rely on my girlfriend for belays now or pretend that my climbing partner is my "life partner" if I got stopped. Maybe the police would make us kiss to prove it, I don't know? I probably need to accept that I need to train at home again. Firstly, I need to find the motivation and then some training that doesn't stress my elbow or finger     

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - snatch pulls, other stuff. Some campusing. Rack pulls 5x4 120 kg, 5x4 100 kg. Boring.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, new pinch session. Three hangs in sequence, then BM back2 on medium and big pockets all x5. Rings dips in between. Loaded carries. Tested pinch n. 2 with 8 kg, solid. Same for back2 on mid pockets, very good.
Thu - Lattice Edge, easy volume at -5 kg off, then a few hangs at BW left arm and +3 kg right arm, quite solid despite previous day's session. Weights in between. Kettlebell swings, TBDL and farmer's combo. Nice session.
Fri - gentle boxing bag session.
Sat - snatch grip rack pulls up to 100 kg. 5x5 80 kg. Barbell rows. Front levers.
Sun - board climbing, set and climbed one new problem after ages, then circuit in two halves. Ab wheel x20 and snatch pulls x10 combo x5.

Good week, chuffed about the fingers and the board.

[Coops_13]

M: Crimpd floor core

T: Density pickups. 45lb R, 40lb L. Push. Bench press up to 200lb. Incline press, strict shoulder press, lateral and front raises

W: Spot Denver. Fingerboard 18mm +45lb 10s *3sets. Boulders up to 4spots+, managed some that I couldn't do last week due to pain, improvement. Deadlift up to 225lb. Weighted dips +40lb X5 *3sets to finish

T: Density hangs 22mm -25lb. Legs. Squat up to 205lb. Leg extension and curls 100lb. Leg press 190lb. Single leg pisto squat ups

S: Flatirons bouldering. Showers forecast for morning caused partner to bail. Arrived to a very Yorkshire-looking sky (drizzle). Cleared up so hiked in (30 mins), started snowing part way in and continued for a while. Waited for snow to stop and rocks to dry. Saw on radar another band coming in so jumped on Face Full of Brian V8. Minimal rest between attempts before more snow (that never came). No success and LH getting sore so moved on a did Girlfiend's Backside V7 v quickly. Main aim for the day Turning Point V8 had driend by this point so I refined some beta from when I tried it in May 2019 and sent fairly quickly. Finished the day doing Nanoprobe V5, nice boulder next to the tourist path...
Vid below, watch for the dice with death (pit to left, I managed to jump right)

[Sasquatch]

M-Rest
T-AM Limit Boulder worked 2 x 8A, PM - 1 arm recruitment pulls 20mm 1/2cr(130-140#ish), 8mm full cr(100-110#ish), and jug pulls(180-190#ish) (used tindeq to measure RP's)
W-AM Projecting Session worked 2 x 7C+, sent hard 7C(cave), PM - Max repeaters 3 sets of 5on/5off @ 90% Previous day max. Push Stre, DL
T-Snow Bike 1.5hrs
F-AM Capacity Session, WU, then 6x7B, 5x7B+, 4x7C, PM density hangs 4 x 20mm(+50#) 22,25,23,20sec, 8mm full crimp 30sec at 70-80#
S-Skate Ski 30min 4mi
S-Skate Ski 30min 4mi

Good initial week of new cycle. 

[nai]

trying Suavito. Couldn't fathom big move up left to crimp on face; is there any short person beta for this other than jumping? Nai?!

Sorry, only had one brief play years ago, keep meaning to go back.  Might help?

https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?t=2600

[nai]

M - thought I did somethuing but can't remember now
T - drove over to Roche Abbey, found it condensed. Again, likely to have sone something PM but can't remember.
W - PM Burbage, Dry rock but utter dog shit conditions, just no grip. Lots of damp top outs made a circuit unappealing.
Th Just when I thiought it was over, more painting.
F Splashed a second coat on the walls then headed to Plantation, as per tt's post plus I started on Mono Slab which I did second try years ago but couldn't fathom today. Thought it might have lost something but that's more likely to be me
Did manage the king line of Polished Bump.  Had to add a third coat evening
S - quick garage session, bit of core, some shoulder work. Hip mobility
S - more hip mobility

[spidermonkey09]

Sorry, only had one brief play years ago, keep meaning to go back.  Might help?

https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?t=2600

Its really good but you'll definitely want a spot and multiple pads! Looks like Mina might have used her multiple grades in hand there; have found one video of a short chap doing it and his feet do come off on that move, so looks like I'll just have to get on with it!

[tomtom]

Sorry, only had one brief play years ago, keep meaning to go back.  Might help?

https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?t=2600

Its really good but you'll definitely want a spot and multiple pads! Looks like Mina might have used her multiple grades in hand there; have found one video of a short chap doing it and his feet do come off on that move, so looks like I'll just have to get on with it!

About 8 years ago (so hazy memory) but was there with RobL (shorter than Mina) and a load of other folk. He did it throwing across and cutting loose. Hold and paste feet back on. He said that was hard....

[nai]

Sorry, only had one brief play years ago, keep meaning to go back.  Might help?

https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?t=2600

Its really good but you'll definitely want a spot and multiple pads! Looks like Mina might have used her multiple grades in hand there; have found one video of a short chap doing it and his feet do come off on that move, so looks like I'll just have to get on with it!

Yeah did think about typing strong, supple, skillful as well as short.

[spidermonkey09]

About 8 years ago (so hazy memory) but was there with RobL (shorter than Mina) and a load of other folk. He did it throwing across and cutting loose. Hold and paste feet back on. He said that was hard....

Yep, that'll be it, its like throwing a hard jumpy board move in the middle of a gritstone compression arete sequence.

[tomtom]

About 8 years ago (so hazy memory) but was there with RobL (shorter than Mina) and a load of other folk. He did it throwing across and cutting loose. Hold and paste feet back on. He said that was hard....

Yep, that'll be it, its like throwing a hard jumpy board move in the middle of a gritstone compression arete sequence.

He held it a few times though.. it may well have been the move for the top that stopped him.

There were at least 6 of us on it that day. Loads of pads - and somehow I still managed to find a gap between them and bruise my heel on the pointy out one on the left. Doh.