[jshaw]

Ha!

That actually really helps. Basically, whoever has the most skin, does the least shit in the final final final?

[Will Hunt]

[tomtom]

Question for those who know about the setting.

Speed is always the same yup?

For combined rather than individual - is the setting for lead and Boulder a bit softer - knowing they’re going to have to do all three?

[lagerstarfish]

For combined rather than individual - is the setting for lead and Boulder a bit softer - knowing they’re going to have to do all three?

and linked to this...

are we expecting the Olympic combined setting to be softer than individual world cup boulder/lead ?

[SA Chris]

That was to qualify for qualifying. Which is just to qualify for finals. Which is just to qualify for Olympic qualifying. Which is just to qualify for Olympic finals. Which is just qualifying for The Greater Ranges. Got it?

Can you qualify your response please.

[Duma]

Bosi 6th, Molly 7th.
Appears ranking is not based on best time so if you lose yr first race the best you can do is 5th, which is pretty much going to put you out of contention unless you're Ondra...
Speed is so shit.
Is Mollys height a big disadvantage? She looks to be very stretched on some of the moves, and her times seem well down even on other non specialists.

[tomtom]

Bosi 6th, Molly 7th.
Appears ranking is not based on best time so if you lose yr first race the best you can do is 5th, which is pretty much going to put you out of contention unless you're Ondra...
Speed is so shit.
Is Mollys height a big disadvantage? She looks to be very stretched on some of the moves, and her times seem well down even on other non specialists.

Bosi screwed up in his last one didnt he - sadly - and against one of his stronger rivals... grr

[Duma]

Only 3 problems in bouldering and the first one is waaay too easy. Fucks sake.

[tomtom]

#2 looks heightist (that foot trap)

[Duma]

problem 2 dyno, does look morpho. Looks like a good problem, but with only three it'll be a shame if the Olympic place is decided on it.
Classic dab from Staja, worthy of the ukb thread! She'll be gutted if it costs her though!

[Aussiegav]

IMO, women’s problems are not very good.

[Duma]

Aaaaaaand another coordination dyno. Pretty sure Molly's the shortest in the field by a bit, but this looks pretty hard on her.

[tomtom]

Aaaaaaand another coordination dyno. Pretty sure Molly's the shortest in the field by a bit, but this looks pretty hard on her.

Yup. Top move looks interesting - but the start.....

Shame.

[tomtom]

Gah. Unlucky Molly. Bottom and no way back... hope she gets #1 in the Lead though.

[teestub]

Big ups to Staša Gejo for the chalk up whilst catching combination dyno!

[bigironhorse]

Unlucky Molly!

Thoughts so far:

I hate the speed format. If speed has to be in there at least have a timetrial rather than the bollocks head to head system. Happen to get drawn against a speed climber? Unlucky mate, bottom half of the field before you've even started.

Womens boulders were not great. First one obviously way two easy and the other two both morpho coordination problems. Not a powerful move in sight.

What's the deal with the Stasa towel dab? Can't see how it makes any difference if you dab the mat or your towel?

[bigironhorse]

Big ups to Staša Gejo for the chalk up whilst catching combination dyno!

+1. That was the best bit so far.

[bigironhorse]

Mens boulders much more enjoyable IMO. I really like a jump now and again but I think three jump starts is a bit much! Unlucky for Will on M3.

[Fultonius]

I'm sure commentary fatigue is setting in....but this is shit!

They need a Rob Warner or Ben Cathro of the climbing world....

[Fultonius]

Molly looked she had it in the bag, I think she's suffering a bit from knowing she wouldn't qualify. I reckon she could easily have got the top.

[abarro81]

Whatever happened with the WADA ban in Russia is sport? From a quick Google I can't quite understand how Russia was even at this event? Looked like team kit etc rather than competing as an "individual" or whatever..

[tomtom]

Great final in the men’s lead....

But there’s a few things with the system that are shite.

In both men’s and women’s the best speed climber (specialist I guess) made it into the finals - and was shit in both boulder and lead. It looked really lame...

Also - the multiplier system meant - I think - that Sasha was in first overall (1 point) with the Russian second (2) but when they both got bumped down to 2nd and 3rd that mean the Russian guy was then first over all... stupid system...

[bigironhorse]

Great final in the men’s lead....

But there’s a few things with the system that are shite.

In both men’s and women’s the best speed climber (specialist I guess) made it into the finals - and was shit in both boulder and lead. It looked really lame...

Also - the multiplier system meant - I think - that Sasha was in first overall (1 point) with the Russian second (2) but when they both got bumped down to 2nd and 3rd that mean the Russian guy was then first over all... stupid system...

Agree mens lead final was great. Never heard of Yuval before but he is extremely entertaining to watch.

I think whenever you're combining disciplines there is bound to be some weird maths going on in the scoring. Is there a better system, what do they use in track and field for eg? Hopefully all of these issues will be solved after this Olympics, I think in the subsequent one there will be seperate medals for each discipline? Or is it just seperate medals for speed and lead/boulder?

[Sidehaas]

Great final in the men’s lead....

But there’s a few things with the system that are shite.

In both men’s and women’s the best speed climber (specialist I guess) made it into the finals - and was shit in both boulder and lead. It looked really lame...

Also - the multiplier system meant - I think - that Sasha was in first overall (1 point) with the Russian second (2) but when they both got bumped down to 2nd and 3rd that mean the Russian guy was then first over all... stupid system...

Agree mens lead final was great. Never heard of Yuval before but he is extremely entertaining to watch.

I think whenever you're combining disciplines there is bound to be some weird maths going on in the scoring. Is there a better system, what do they use in track and field for eg? Hopefully all of these issues will be solved after this Olympics, I think in the subsequent one there will be seperate medals for each discipline? Or is it just seperate medals for speed and lead/boulder?

You could do it additively and that would produce slightly less weirdness. But my memory from when this was all discussed before is that multiplication was preferred because it makes the difference between 1st and 2nd, 2nd and 3rd so much more important than the difference between 5th and 6th or 7th and 8th. It's supposed to really incentivise a win. Which to be fair is exactly what happened today - if Sascha had won the lead, he'd have qualified, but coming second was nowhere near as good for his score, so he didn't. Couldn't help feeling sorry for him after the way he climbed but I think Rubtsov is also very deserving of a place.

[Sidehaas]

Whatever happened with the WADA ban in Russia is sport? From a quick Google I can't quite understand how Russia was even at this event? Looked like team kit etc rather than competing as an "individual" or whatever..

According to Wikipedia, although a complete ban was recommended by anti doping organisations, they are only actually banned from athletics, weightlifting and all paralympic events.