UKBouldering.com

[Raven Tor] [Exodus] [7C+??] (Read 1879 times)

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1682
  • Karma: +77/-2
[Raven Tor] [Exodus] [7C+??]
November 05, 2020, 08:31:28 pm
A cool new problem down the right hand end of Raven Tor. Starts from sitting with left hand on the wide pocket pinch on Boyband/ Girlband. FA Dawid Skoczylas summer 2020.

Has had a few repeats now, consensus seems to be 7C+. I believe the Boyband link into it from the right was done by Andy Hutchinson back in September, graded 7C+ still but surely 8A??


r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#1 Re: [Raven Tor] [Exodus] [7C+??]
November 05, 2020, 08:48:05 pm
So why the double question marks?

I tried this with Dawid before he did it. We both thought it felt harder than 7C+.  But hey, maybe we were wrong. Gravity is always a bit stronger when you try something unclimbed.

Seemed decent though, whatever the grade.

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1682
  • Karma: +77/-2
#2 Re: [Raven Tor] [Exodus] [7C+??]
November 05, 2020, 09:01:13 pm
I was trying suggest the grade wasn't yet settled as only a few ppl have done it. Agreed, its a big difference knowing a line's been done already and having good beta. I failed on Pump up the Power afterwards, seemed about the same grade, although lets face it if these were in Swizzy they would all probs be 8A! :lol:  :-\

Connies were really cold when I did it so the crimps all felt twice as big as summer! The Girlband link into it still up for grabs...

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1682
  • Karma: +77/-2
#3 Re: [Raven Tor] [Exodus] [7C+??]
November 19, 2020, 06:11:28 pm
Managed to repeat the Boyband/ Exodus link today, I reckon its 8A. The move before the crux is easier coming in from the right as your right hand is on a higher hold but the crux is the same as on Exodus. More sustained than the original. Most people I have spoken to at the crag think Exodus is 8A. More repeats needed to gain consensus!

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1682
  • Karma: +77/-2
#4 Re: [Raven Tor] [Exodus] [7C+??]
November 19, 2020, 09:47:47 pm
Here is a vid of the ascent


Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#5 Re: [Raven Tor] [Exodus] [7C+??]
November 20, 2020, 06:33:08 am
Very smooth Ted, looks great.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal