[tomtom]

Power Club 553

M: rest

Tu: reset board feet to small textured plastic dinks. Could only (just) manage two of my previous dozen or so problems (above warm up). What was intended I guess!

We: Knackered. Quick 1 arm hang session - did alright surprisingly...

Thu: Baldstones with Nai and Plattsy. Only had 90-120 min before I had to head back, so we set to work on the Baldstones traverse. This is - a really good problem. Two cruxes - one right near the end. Quite techy and quite powerful. Really enjoyed it. Video of Nai on it below - (as his ascent traverse was just a bit more dramatic If anyones interested in how tall person (me) does it compared to Nai - then theres a vid of me on the same channel. Great stuff. Felt REALLY worked by it on the way home.



Fri: Goosed. Tried to do some one arm stuff but some serious DOMs from Thursday. Must have tried hard!

Sat: Stronstrey Bank. Wanted to get Grasshopper done. Really wanted to get it done... Occasional very light drizzle - sub optimal conditions. I ached - and felt like I pulled something on my left side/lat early in the warm up - nearly gave up and went home. Took me a good hour to start pulling properly (unusual for me..). Re-worked my beta from last week - did the bottom traverse in sections, then in one. Had a good ten min rest. Set up the camera and got up my first 7C+  \o/



Really chuffed. I didn't catch the high hold on the face in the right spot with my LH (1cm to the left) but instead of dropping off I tried to power through it (my left arm starts shaking after I've wound in the crimp and bring my right hand up) and everything stuck and I got the top! Those ones when you really have to dig deep and scrape up are not as technically satisfying as nailing every move - but somehow feel better

Sun: Trashed. rest.

Its been an odd week. Got a big deadline on tuesday for a grant application and have been working every spare hour of the day and evening on it... so it was a welcome break from all that to nip away on a dank morning for a break and get my first 7C+

[teestub]

🔥🔥🔥

[Coops_13]

M: Shoulder mobility exercises. Lower body stretching. Push. Bench press up to +160lb X3 *3sets. Incline press 40lb, shoulder press 40lb, lateral and front raise 25lb

T: Spot Denver. Fingerboard 18mm +45lb 10s *3sets. Kilter board. 2 V4, 4 V5, 2 V6, 1 V7, 1 V8 at 50deg. Flashed a V6 at 70deg as well. Psyched to finish off a couple from last week and get my first Kilter V8!

W: One set of legs exercises in evening. Some wrist pain

T: Meant to have a strength testing session with physio but wrist had flared up so had some dry needling on elbow and some wrist review.

S: Klettergarden near Vail to start. Warmed up slowly and wrist was feeling good so gave the classic Minturn Mile V6 a flash go, fell off the top and got it second go. Spent a while working Return of the Jedi V8+++ (felt at least a grade harder than the V8 I did last weekend). Really good and got close, psyched for a rematch (probably not till next year). Moved on to Aircraft Carrier boulder and flashed the mega-classic Star Crossed Lovers V5. Had a play on a couple of other things before finishing by doing an unnamed V5 on the approach 2nd go.


Wrist flared up on Wednesday, perhaps from a move I did on the kilter board or from the intensity of the past couple of weeks. Was not expecting to be able to climb on Saturday but once I'd warmed up there was no pain at all, was able to pull hard in all wrist angles. Wrist feeling fine now, going to take it easy this week coming as I'm off to Joe's Valley for a long weekend on Thursday!

[shark]

Well done TT. I hate you

11.3- 11.4 Average 157.3 (up 1.4lbs )

M.

T. Malham with Ewa. Chucking it down in places on drive up and blazing sunshine when we got there. Sleeping in places. Psyche low. F&EE x2. Waited for sun to go off. Dogged up Oak and dried wet holds and linked top traverse to belay. From ground got to undercut by third bolt. Everything felt hard. Next go with a massive effort linked ground to touching horn. Felt broken after. One more burn at end of the day getting to undercut by third bolt then to top with a rest. Overall felt physically and mentally burnt out. Need a break from it. If still or dry-able in a week/ten days may go back. Gutted.
In better news Ewa redpointed New Dawn despite it being wet under the bulge. Really impressive performance.

W DIY

T DIY

F DIY

S DIY

S DIY

No motivation. Drank a fair bit. I can’t climb the Oak, Moffatrocity is wet, there’s still no replacement to the Anasazi Whites and it’s ok to do Hubble with kneebars. What’s the point any more. There’s a tunnel of white light that beckons and I’m walking towards it. The world of DIY awaits..

[spidermonkey09]

Great effort TT!

M - felt totally knackered so did nothing all day.  Arms sore after exertions on Overnite.

T - would normally train but decided not to in the interests of better recovery.

W - max hangs at 4kg assist. The extra rest day paid off as these went pretty well, completed the set with some effort. Will try and back it up at the same weight this week before going to 3kg. Went to the wall after dinner and felt really heavy and full. As a result didn't bother with the board and just did some problems. Struggled on slopey volumes but went well on the technical aretes. Plus ca change.

T - core and stretching. better than last week.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Decided to have a play on the Oak as it was surprisingly dry enough. Initial dog up sadly failed to find bomber kneebar. Immediately saw why Simon insists on having stiff boots as I was all over the shop on the lower wall footholds. 3 goes up, found all the holds, did all the moves bolt to bolt and linked top traverse a few times. Quality climbing. Clipping the chain was a bit fraught as it was soaking up there. Might have a day or two more on this before November but one for the spring.

S -  Really cold at the crag. Tweaked left wrist/forearm on the Oak so decided to continue the project shopping on something else. Dogged up Cry Freedom to the top bulge, which was wet. Thought the lower wall was brilliant, very Predator esque. Second go up managed to do all the moves on the first crux and worked out where the feet are after eventually decoding Tom's beta. Pleased with that and psyched to do the Great Escape (the link into Predator) in the spring.

Busy at Malham this weekend but a distinct 'endgame' feeling to the season. The seepage is encroaching and the forecast this week does not inspire confidence it will dry. Might go once or twice more as I have a week off next week but then will call it and go bouldering. Good to have a look at a few harder things for next year, both of which were really good and felt plausible.

[Will Hunt]

I'm sure I did a core session on Monday but can't remember.

W - Board sesh. Spent a while warming up then sorted the foot beta for the final moves of Howling Brown. Felt really good on the first big move and did it in a few goes. No idea how hard it is but pleased to get it done.

Sa - Malham trad. Didn't feel cold at all! Climbed in a single layer all day! Did Junkyard Angel and thought the first roofy bit was fine. Then faffed for an age above this trying to get some good gear in that wouldn't pull out if I fell on it after traversing to the left. Eventually ran out of quickdraws just before the top bulge and had to back clean some gear to protect the top which looked like it might be a bit goey on leaning slopey breaks. Was mercifully granted a sinker wire just shy of the top and got that in with some upping and downing. Topped out with relief. It's only HVS but Yorkshire lime trad routes always feel about 2 grades harder than they are and I'm crap at trad.
Will decided he was going to give Wombat a go. Sat on some gear at the top of the initial groove after not managing to work out the moves on the wall to the right. He shook out then went up through the slightly looser rock to the top section. Fell off just before the final kick and lowered off. Top roped up it to get the gear back and felt like I could have led it until the top section. Harry found a better way of doing it when he went up so maybe it's not as bad as I thought. Could be one for the future?

Had a chat with people on the way out and none of them could hide their disgust at what a trad punter I am 

[Fiend]

Shark pm me if you want to do some esoteric trad grit exploration. I can guarantee it will make the DIY feel better in comparison.

[shark]

Shark pm me if you want to do some esoteric trad grit exploration. I can guarantee it will make the DIY feel better in comparison.

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - front and mid2 one arm on pull up bar x10. TB DL 70x10 in between.
Tue - rest.
Wed - bar work x10. Snatch x5, clean and press x5 in between.
Thu - board climbing, PE problem 1 one foot +8 kg, +2 kg. Fell at the top with 8 kg. Ab wheel 20x5. Tired.
Fri - rest.
Sat - TB DL 60 kg 10x10. Very tired.
Sun - loaded carries outside 20'.

[duncan]

Well done TT! New grade whilst in the run-up to a grant submission is no mean feat.

M - Shoulder conditioning routine (IsYsTs, handstands, sideplanks).
T - Fingerboard: Short set of max. hangs followed by sets of power-endurace (AeroPower). This was more than I usually do in one session
W - Forearm DOMS. Shoulder conditioning.
T - Forearms still a little tired. Short jog.
F - Portland solo mission. Glorious autumn day, crisp and cool.  Got to Blacknor early but there was already a team on England’s Dreaming. Belayed various on this, warmed up on the 6b nearby, then tried the moves - surprisingly familiar given the last time I’d done it was in 1997! Had a rest - more belaying - then gave it a go on lead. Went reasonably smoothly with a constant flow of beta and encouragement. Thanks to Olly and team. My pre-arranged partners were a bit late and I’d cooled down completely by the time they turned up, so retroflashed Downtown Julie Brown. Then tried Is Vic There*.  Thought this was great, better (and harder) than England’s Dreaming. I could do all the moves fairly well but the final crux was beyond me on the RP. Ran out of time and energy for another go. Dark as we left the crag, making for a very long day. 
S - Tired. Short jog.
S - Shoulder conditioning. Short max. hangs session.

Decent week with a repeat of England’s Dreaming and a couple of training sessions but I have acquired yet more unfinished business!

Will need to be in Somerset some of this week as Mum has just had an op. but will try to get to Uphill or Brean.

A training question: I’m consistently running out of gas on routes after about 2 minutes (powering out rather than pumping out). This is very much the limiting factor on Road Rage which is the sport climbing goal for the rest of the year. I’ve been doing the crimpd Aerobic Power session: 7 seconds on / 3 seconds off for two minutes x six sets. I’ve progressed this by increasing the load mainly as that is the easiest thing to do. I’m currently at ~55% of max. I know I mostly need stay uninjured and keep turning up but would I be better to progress the number of reps (to 2.5 mins for example, given I’m failing on routes at 2 mins) or number of sets instead?

[SA Chris]

Shark pm me if you want to do some esoteric trad grit exploration. I can guarantee it will make the DIY feel better in comparison.

I think he's referring to the Stanage route.

[JohnM]

Weight - 10st7lbs

M - Rest

T - Trail run 11km 489m height gain. Foam rolling + wrist curls for golfers elbow.

W - Rest - sore after the foam rolling and wrist curls.

T - Shoulder stability + recruitment exercises.

F - Drive to Arco. Late afternoon/evening at Lasino after hiking into the wrong crag, from the wrong parking but still trying to make it fit the topo! Onsighted a nice 7b+ called Miro and then put the clips in an 8a (Tempesta del Deserto). Took me ages to work out the morpho start and then I had to be quick to work out a sequence at the top. Got there fresh first RP but fell off. Would have been nice to finish it but we ran out of time/light.

S - Nago. Climbed on the big boulders near the popular lower sector. Lots of dickheads again blowing vaporizers in everybody's faces or coming to sit right next to where we were climbing to play some tinny music on a phone and smoke skunk. Put the clips up an 8a+ (Fred Flintstone). This was pretty fierce crimpy wall climbing but despite not feeling that solid on it I was happy to do it first RP. Put the clips in the neighbouring 8a+ (Ssoul). This felt desperate and I could barely do some of the moves. With quite a few rock scars I suspect somethings have fallen off or it is just a massive sand bag. Put the clips up the 7c+ in between instead. This had some heinous moves for 7c+ but wasn't as sustained as the 8a+s. Did that first RP by the skin of my teeth.

S - Woke up sore and hungover with chunks missing from my fingers. Went to Massone and put the clips up an 8a+ called Open Air. I had wanted to try this since watching a young Italian sponsored climber try to onsight it a while back. He fell of mid-crux (probably because he was weighed down by so many sewn on logos) and had an almighty tantrum! Anyway the climbing is pretty wild up an overhanging bulge on a tufa. I got further than I expected and into the crux but ultimately didn't have enough power or skin and I was bleeding everywhere. Also, after watching an Italian guy on it after I realised my sequence was whack!

Had a rest week as planned but was obviously not enough to get rid of my main niggles. The elbow is very localised and doesn't seem to affect my climbing but the sore tendon in my left index finger is annoying as I can't pull down hard through the index on that hand now. That means no more hangs this week and I will just have to do some bar work and core.





 

[gollum]

W/C 12/10/2020

Fantastic tick TT. Well done.

M - Sheffield depot, chest, rehab, abs, stretching
T - Triceps, levers, rehab
W- Ilkley, back, rehab, abs
T - Lindley Moor, rehab, abs, shoulders
F - Biceps, abs, rehab
S - Rest, rehab
S - Rest, rehab


M - Weather forecast is poor and am Billy No Mates today, so head to Depot in Sheffield while I’m still allowed to cross borders and go anywhere at all. Spend a couple of hours ticking off the reds that I haven’t done before or can’t remember doing at least. Also do a few of the low 20s of the pink problems, which are generally pretty fingers and suit me down to the ground, so have more success than I deserve, flashing most. Finish with a few circuits.
Gym on the way home and chest day. Do think weights after climbing is the better way around, when I can do them in that order, although probably good to mix it every now and then. Start with declines for triples up to 100. Them on to flat bench singles. Start at 60 and keep increasing by 10 to 100, then increase by 2.5 each set up to a very solid 110. Felt like I had more, this equals my lifetime heaviest lift and is by far the heaviest I’ve benched without a spotter or safety bars, so mega chuffed as didn’t feel close to my limit at all and felt very safe. Move on to 15° incline for 3 up to 95 and a single at 100. Then on to 30° incline for 5x3 up to 90. Dumbbell presses for sets 6x6 starting with 30s and going up by 2 each set to finish with the 40s. Finish chest work with 3x5 incline flys with hold at full extension and then the same on a flat bench.
Some crunches and floor exercises for abs,  followed by the obligatory rehab exercises and stretching.

T - Tricep training. Start with some standard benching attempting to build on yesterday but with a safety bar set up. Get up to 115, which is a bit of a half arsed rep to be fair, so doesn’t count although pleased enough to do 120 again. I should have been more conservative and gone for 112.5, live and learn. Move on to close grip presses 4x3 with top set at 85k, which is an improvement on previous heaviest. Single arm Tate presses for 3x5 next. Cables. Single arm tricep presses for 3x8, followed by V-grip tricep press for 3x8 and finish with leaning tricep extensions for 3x10.
Banded levers, lever raises and windscreen wipers for core.
Do hamstring exercises when I get home.
Set of repeaters staying on the easier holds as skin on fingers feels a bit sore.

W - Earlyish session up at Ilkley. Calf is dry but pretty much everything else is wet but there’s a good breeze and forecast is good, so may dry in next few days. Work through some of easier problems on Calf, which is something I do fairly regularly but equally something I’ve always enjoyed and pretty much every time I come, I still have to work out the sequence for things I’ve done before, as I can never remember.
Gym on the way home and back today. Start with deadlifts and continue with the working back up following injury. Reach 140 as planned and leg feels fine, although middle of the rep is maybe more effort than I would like, but I am where I wanted to be at this stage. Move on to 3x15 wide grip pull-ups. Rack pulls for singles up to 160, been a while since I’ve done these and certainly can feel my back working hard. Prone bench rows with isometric hold at top for 3x8.
Run through rehab exercises and some abs floor exercises before finishing.

T - Quick nip up to Lindley Moor to wander about a bit and get away from it all, although whether I can do that about 100m from the M62 is open to debate. Nice and relaxing though.
Hamstring rehab exercises again and feels pretty much back to normal with very little difference between good and bad leg. On to some more floor based exercises.
Visit gym in the late afternoon, working shoulders today. Start with machine shoulder presses for 6x5, adding 2.5k per side on each set up to 42.5. Move on to a superset of seated alternating lateral raises and alternating front raises both for 4x6. Then a superset of single arm laterals on an inclined bench and front barbell raises for 3x8. Plate front raises for 3x8 with strict form, another exercise I’ve not done in a while. On the cables, I start with front rows for 3x8 and finish with cable crossovers for rear delts for 3x6. Final exercise is scapular raises for 4x5.

F - Off to Dales on van this aft for mates 60th birthday, so need to crack on in the morning. Bicep training in the gym. Start with 3x8 Ez bar preacher curls and follow this up with 4x5 steep angle single arm preacher curls. Move on to do a giant set of inclined bilateral curls, drag curls and seated curls each for 3x8, which definitely gets my arms working.  Next I do some hammer curls with dumbbells doing 8 reps bilaterally followed immediately with 8 on each arm alternating for three sets, probably closer to a drop set due to extra rest in second phase than a superset, either way, feels pretty tough. Finish off arms with 3 sets of Zottman curls.
Run through hamstring rehab and then do dragon flags for core. Good short sharp session.

S - Lazy day resting and watching Chong Rugby League on the tv. Hamstring rehab exercises.

S - More rehab and rest.

Good week for strength but didn’t get to do much climbing. Hopefully more next week.

[nai]

M hours and hours of sanding, painting, rolling, etc

T Quicky to Burbage North between coats, met Dolly and Plattsy there. Managed Undercut Sloper Eliminate.

W more coats....

Th - Baldstones with tt and Plattsy rocked up too.  I should point out that I did start the traverse at the beginning but started too quickly after tt's ascent, which is here:



Did the Elephant's problems after tt left then spent 15 minutes experiencing a 30 years later deja vu failing to get off the deck on Fielder's Wall.

F - Heading to Gardoms for a quicky but the parking spot was taken, went up the lane but saw someone unloading and feeling unsociable opted to head to the Walnut instead.  Decent session, 8 problems including both the 7As

SS - nowt

Hopefully more climing than decorating this week