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[Stanage Popular][3 New Problems] (Read 2979 times)

EdGowSmith

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[Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 08, 2020, 02:24:56 pm
Me and Joe Mullett climbed 3 new problems in the cave under Grotto Slab yesterday (at the right end of Stanage Popular).
They all finish by climbing (squirming) through the gap on the right; it is possible to do this without dabbing on the back wall but unfortunately frustratingly hard, so just do as best you can - neither of us managed to avoid it.

Billy the Kidd, 6C
Sit start on the left side of the wall (left hand on arete, right on edge), trend rightwards.

Just Kidding, 6C+
Sit start on the right side of the wall (right hand in tight pocket, left hand on next hold along), go direct to the top.

The Kidd, 7A+
Cream of the crop.
Start sitting as for Just Kidding but follow the ramp leftwards to finish up Billy the Kidd. A rather good set of moves.

Here are very poor videos of the first two problems.



grimer

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#1 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 08, 2020, 03:19:03 pm
I told Ned F about these possibilities some time back. I suspect he did some of them.

EdGowSmith

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#2 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 08, 2020, 03:31:49 pm
I told Ned F about these possibilities some time back. I suspect he did some of them.

Fair enough, but I would be very surprised if the wall had been climbed on before - can't imagine chalk is washed off at all quickly in there (stays pretty dry in rain) and some holds needed a decent clean / removal of small loose blocks.
Accepting I could be wrong though!

grimer

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#3 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 08, 2020, 03:37:13 pm
Yes, quite possibly, I don't know.

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 08, 2020, 11:34:25 pm
Ned did climb some problems here, within the last year. Unfortunately I can't find the message with the details on. I'll try and find out though.

Bonjoy

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#5 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 09, 2020, 09:05:14 am
I asked Ned and here's what he came back with:

Quote
Looks like I did the one he called Billy a the Kid but from a different start.
And looks like I did the one called Just Kidding.

Then I did one that started up “Just Kidding”  and traversed leftwards to finish round the arete and up the mod. I called this one Möbius Strip. But didn’t name the other 2 that I did.

This is what I had written down...

Left sit start. Go to aręte and rock up. Finish up the mod if you fancy some better quality climbing.
Low 6c?

Same sit start as above (rh diagonal crimp and fat lh undercut).  Bear right up the ramp and finish at the hole. Or top out of you fancy but I expect you’ll dab.
7a?

Right hand sit start (lh bottom of ramp and rh small pocket) slap up to decent hold and finish leftwards, into the hole
7a?

Same sit start as above, but follow the ramp leftwards, finishing out of the cave round the corner on the left
7c?

cwaddy

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#6 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 09, 2020, 01:04:32 pm
Ben Pritchard also did Billy the kid,( i think it was that one) but without going through the hole, about 5 or 6 years ago.  I guess the chalk must have washed off!

EdGowSmith

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#7 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 09, 2020, 05:20:59 pm
I asked Ned and here's what he came back with:

Quote
Looks like I did the one he called Billy a the Kid but from a different start.
And looks like I did the one called Just Kidding.

Then I did one that started up “Just Kidding”  and traversed leftwards to finish round the arete and up the mod. I called this one Möbius Strip. But didn’t name the other 2 that I did.

This is what I had written down...

Left sit start. Go to aręte and rock up. Finish up the mod if you fancy some better quality climbing.
Low 6c?

Same sit start as above (rh diagonal crimp and fat lh undercut).  Bear right up the ramp and finish at the hole. Or top out of you fancy but I expect you’ll dab.
7a?

Right hand sit start (lh bottom of ramp and rh small pocket) slap up to decent hold and finish leftwards, into the hole
7a?

Same sit start as above, but follow the ramp leftwards, finishing out of the cave round the corner on the left
7c?

Okay, fair enough! Thanks for finding out.

highrepute

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#8 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 09, 2020, 09:12:07 pm
So neither Ned nor Ben went through the hole? Sounds like Ed finished off something they got agonisingly close to doing but for a bit squirming.

Look good Ed. Don't let those retro claiming bastards grind you down.

danm

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#9 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 09, 2020, 09:47:42 pm
Lol, the best bit was Grimer retro claiming for somebody else. Retroclaiming by Proxy. Done years ago by John Redhead...

submaximal gains

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#10 Re: [Stanage Popular][3 New Problems]
October 12, 2020, 02:09:56 pm
Went and tried these on Sunday morning. Nice climbing, they'd be good problems to seek out on a windy day as it's a very sheltered spot.

 

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