[DavidM]

Hi all,

I am looking to build a home board in a small cellar space in a converted pub. My Dad is a carpenter and is willing to help but I think it maybe prudent to get some advice or help from someone who has made one of two of these as most people seem to comment how they would have made it differently second time round. I want to get the most out of the space I have to use whilst building something practical to train on.

In terms of the space it's not a massive ceiling height 220cm and have about 300cm width. I have seen that in previous threads people recommended Paul at crusher holds has built one for customers so I have got in contact with him. However I am based in London and he is based in the North West. Could anyone recommend someone that maybe able to assist in this construction obviously for a fee.

Any help in pointing me in the right direction is most appreciated,

David 

[SA Chris]

Any limitations on how steep you can go? Also what are you going to use it for training for, and what grade?

[tomtom]

Mini moon board fits in that space...

[DavidM]

No limitations on how steep. Currently climbing consistently around 7a. In terms of training question. I have a small child and often can't get to the wall. I have a fingerboard, weights, rings etc but it would be a place to train hard moves, work weaknesses (pinches and slopers) to improve my outdoor climbing primarily.   

Good shout on the mini moon board tomtom

[SA Chris]

OK, but for bouldering, not circuits etc for doing routes? And I guess it won't need to cater for said small child. Yet.

[DavidM]

Sorry yeah bouldering and not catering for small child. Maybe something vertical for him on another wall but not in the main board area no.

[SA Chris]

Well for a start a std ply sheet is 244 x 122 cm, so not sure if you want to go to the faff of needing to add extra pieces of sheets to use the full 300cm width you have, and you will want access to the back to deal with spinning t nuts assuming you are going down that route.

[DavidM]

Great advice thank you no need for the full 3 metre width no. Would you know anyone who could help with this construction in terms of getting it right that maybe interested.?

[dunnyg]

I dont have any contacts, but this thread may be of use in terms of ideas if you havent seen it.
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=3260.0

You could always get your man up north to design it and your dad/local joiner to build it?

For what its worth, in a similar space I was going to build a 45 board, using a load of screw on holds. T nuts seem nice but not necessary. It is worth considering how much space you have to fall off into, as this may control the board angle.

[galpinos]

Mini moon board fits in that space...

Have you tried one Tom? I am considering one for the outhouse.

[SA Chris]

Would you know anyone who could help with this construction in terms of getting it right that maybe interested.?

If there's you and your dad who's a chippy, not sure who else you need? Even with my limited skills I managed to get one up that's not fallen down yet. In fact I suspect it's a tad over engineered. There are tons of "how to" vids on youtube.

Only big question is kickboard or not.

[Nutty]

If your Dad's a carpenter than I'm sure you got enough practical experience (and tools) on tap - certainly more than I did when I built mine!

The Metolius guide is still a good place to start: https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pdf/How-to-Build-a-Home-Bouldering-Wall.pdf

You may want steeper than the mini Moonboard to give more climbing area in the height. The angle is going to be your key decision really which will depend on what angle you'd find usable and how much depth you've got available for the board and fall-out space.

[scragrock]

Would you know anyone who could help with this construction in terms of getting it right that maybe interested.?

If there's you and your dad who's a chippy, not sure who else you need? Even with my limited skills I managed to get one up that's not fallen down yet. In fact I suspect it's a tad over engineered. There are tons of "how to" vids on youtube.

Only big question is kickboard or not.

Agree with Chris, Just go for it and enjoy the process. you can add other bits and bobs in later.

i have a Kickboard but my wall is seriously overhanging and would just be wasted space for your heels to scrape the ground.

[DavidM]

Thank you for all your suggestions most appreciated

[tomtom]

Mini moon board fits in that space...

Have you tried one Tom? I am considering one for the outhouse.

Nope - but Mike Adams has one and I've had an instachat with him about it... have a look on his feed for any vids of it. Looks like a good (though not esp cheap) way of using the space. And ties into the app and other peoples problems etc.. wooden holds too I think.

Was thinking of getting one if we move house / if house move comes off etc.. and we have some more space...

[mrjonathanr]

How much depth have you got? That will determine the construction hugely. Some points
I have a small side board, about 5* overhanging. It’s painted with hearts and rainbows for my daughter, but mostly it’s my warm up, think Pinches Wall at the Tor.
I have a small kick board, 10”. It’s good.
Finish holds are on a separate board, slightly further back from top of board to extend/make finish angle a bit steeper.
Big pinches spannered my elbow, so now it’s mostly slopers and crimps with a few pinches, pockets etc
I think you should play around with what you can build in the space. Save your money from a chippy and invest Rick Ginns oak handholds instead.

[DavidM]

Sorry all I remeasured last night and I have 220cm high and 220cm wide and 3 metre depth.

Is this big enough to train and get some technique involved rather than just front on moves.?

[tomtom]

I’d say that with that width - it’s going to be mainly (but not only) front on moves. But that’s not a bad thing!!

[DavidM]

People are asking about depth I could potentially swing it round on a different wall but will take up more room in the space.

What is an adequate depth for a 40 or 45 degree board to include fall out space.?

Could 220cm work.?

[Nutty]

A 45 degree board that's 220cm high will be 220cm deep so have no fall-out space.

A 220cm wide board would still be good, it's only 20cm less than a Moonboard. My board is 180cm wide and though more width would be good I didn't have the space for it to be wider and I still find it very good to train on.

[Duma]

2.2m wide will be fine, and won't be all front on at all. Mines 1.7m wide and its fine

[DavidM]

That's good news and encouraging. I'll probably go with a 40 degree and small kick board at bottom like the moon board mini. What are people thoughts on small kickboard at bottom. Would it be better with or without.?

[tomtom]

Dave. Read this thread - maybe the last year is enough... as this has been covered a few times before.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3260.1100.html

[mrjonathanr]

That's good news and encouraging. I'll probably go with a 40 degree and small kick board at bottom like the moon board mini. What are people thoughts on small kickboard at bottom. Would it be better with or without.?

My approach was to rest the base of the board on a baton pinned 6” up the back wall, then stick on a small kick board with a single line of footholds to meet it. This allows me to get more under the board for start moves as space in my shed is a limiting factor.

I’d say you need a metre of space back from your finish holds- you don’t want to fall off a last move and whack your head on the wall. But you could be creative- your finish holds could be big jugs you’d never fall off but could use for shake outs in mini circuits, and have tricky finish in the row underneath. Make it however you want.

What you come up does not have to offer every style of climbing so long as it’s enjoyable to use. IMO the difference between being able to train whenever you like vs not getting out to train is enormous.

[Probes]

Hi Dave I've not noticed an email having come through. I could certainly give a price to sort a board, I'd have to cost the travel in. As has been commented most joiners should be able to knock something up. Building a board isn't too difficult, but there are a few tricks and methods that help get them up quicker and square/level. If you need access to back, you could build a 4 foot square panel into it, that you can screw out/remove. Just don't fix holds across the panel edges or the screws. I've persuaded people in the past with similar spaces to go steeper with a bigger kicker. More usable board. A 45 with 300 kicker? Most have been glad they went steeper.

[DavidM]

Thanks Probes,

I've PM you and sent another email to both accounts.