[tomtom]

Power Club 550.

M: Rest

Tu: Cheeky morning Rubicon session on a work day. TEAMs meeting beforehand dragged on - so didnt make it down there until about 10:45. With the sun out - that gave me about 40-45 min before Kudos wall came into the sun. Warmed up - 5-6 rushed attempts at Kudos. Tried different feet positions for final move but all worse. So dug in, pulled hard and caught the final hold a couple of times but couldn’t hold it. Really tried hard - it burns out my left arm something chronic. Had a few attempts at the press but my left arm wasn’t having it. Disappointing - as so so so close. It will come - and then I can end my Rubicon pilgrimages for a while!

We: Board. Hard session - late in the afternoon after a days work.. managed about 30 min - then did some more later on in the evening.

Thu: Hard day of work - then quick assisted one armed session in the evening. Left arm still feeling it from Tuesday - but decided to push through. No records set up a good work out.

Friday: Lots of wind - decided to drive all the way to the P again and met up with Dolly and Nai. Nai didn’t have the same bounce as he had last week - and Dolly didnt have any kit he was trying to sell me... Anyway... warmed up fast and set about Parklife which me and Nai were very close on last week. Managed to get it with a bit of a snatchy only just ascent. Vid below - for some reason I’d muted the camera which is the shame - as apart from the definitely socially distanced spotting there was some funny chat. I was gassed out after that and tried really hard on Pokemon City Limits but it wasn’t happening. Arms hurting too much from Tues weds and thurs...



Sat: Decided to have a rest day. Went to see Dippy the Dinosaur at Rochdale... Cool. Rochdale town centre was like a ghost town on a Saturday afternoon....

Sun: Morning Pass!! Looked superb out. Headed to Blackstone and got on the rock about 9:30-45. Pre-lockdown (and one frustrating visit post lockdown) I’d been really close on a Crimpy 2 mover 7B called Recalibrate. My problem was that a low heel for the tough start made the first move easier - but the heel kept popping off for the higher slap. A high heel at the start was really bunched and haaaaard but made the second slap easier. I finally figured out that I could move the heel up between moves and badabing...



Excellent. Been wanting to do this for ages - and its nice climbing despite its rather basic nature. Moved on to try Heroes Sit (7C  - nails), Gnomio and Juliet (7B+ nails) and failed on a couple of other low 7’s that are on the attempts circuit. Got back and mrsTT offered to disappear off to the park with the nipper so I had most of the day off!! Result!

[shark]

Sun: Morning Pass!! Looked superb out.

Got confused. Thought you meant Llanberis!

11.0-11.1 Average 154.9 (down 0.2lbs )

M. Morning. Ergo edge. Through I’d experiment with a pre crag fingerboard session. Built up to a 20 sec bodyweight half crimp hang then did a set of recruitment pulls
Afternoon. Malham with new boy Andrew, Steve and Buster. As forecast scorching at crag. Dogged up Mescalito in sun to put the draws in. Number of attempts generally slipping off the low moves. Best two goes getting to the 5th bolt just before it joins New Dawn. Lacklustre session. Hard to be psyched in slippy conditions. Had a nice pint at Listers with Andrew waiting for Buster and Steve to finish.

T.

W.  AM FB warm up PM Malham with Anna, Buster and Steve. Busy on catwalk. Was expecting mint connies but forecast Of decent on-crag wind was not forthcoming. There were moments when it was raining that felt minty but unfortunately I was on belay duty. Went from moderately glassy to moderately humid and glassy. TMI? F&EE to warm up. Felt piss maybe because of pre drive FB warm up. First go up Oak skipped lower section and linked top traverse to belay. Second tie in did a warm up play on lower moves rest then linked ground to touching horn including third clip but was far from slick. Next decent go linked ground to clipping 3rd bolt. After that a couple of slippages on low moves probably due to conditions. Final tie did throw to middle of traverse then traverse to top. Finished with a couple of laps on F&EEE in the dark. Will take headtorch next time.

F.

S. Evening. Had planned on a short campus session but Ben persuaded me to join them on grit. Late start as Tom had to finish shift. Pre-crag FB warm up. Went to Burbage South and we tried Electrical Storm 7b. Tom got it quickly and then Ben too after punting last move. Found a sequence that worked for me and touched edge out right once. Keen to go back to it. Left them to it as cold and didn’t want to get trashed.

S.

After 2 weeks away from the Oak I wasn’t sure what level I’d be at but was hoping I’d hit the magical form I somehow found last autumn doing similar training and climbing. Not to be. Generally feeling glum this week.

Re the third bolt after a chat with Steve on way back decided that clipping it is currently too big an ask. It’s the equivalent of an extra burly undercut move and weakens me for the throw move. Going to revert to having it preclipped which is a shame.

[Coops_13]

M: Climbing physio check-in - warmed up on fingerboard before session -> probably the final straw for the pain I had for the rest of the week. All on track with my wrist - aiming for a strength testing session in a few weeks

T: Woke with bizarre pain in pulleys I've never had before. Turns out it is elbow tendonitis (that I never usually suffer from) with pain manifesting itself in the pulleys of my most recent finger injuries (May'19 and May'20 - really bizarre). Likely due to increased load in training and climbing. Taking easy this week then re-introduce climbing with 2 rest days min between sessions. Figured the density hangs I was doing on 'rest days' may have been contributing as well...

W: 50 press-ups - first time doing press-ups for a while due to wrist - felt good

T: Shoulder mobility exercises

F: 75 press-ups, 50 pull-ups

Sun: Clear Creek Canyon. Went to the Aqua Huck boulder where there were three V5/6 problems I hadn't done before. All really good on solid Gneiss (looks a bit chossy in video). Managed them all fairly quickly then called it a day to not overdo it on elbow.

[Dolly]

orgot to post last week so 2 weeks worth


M shed power as decided it was too hot outside
T MTB intended to go for a short ride but bumped into Norton Sharley and ended up doing loooads until I was spent
W The P did a few things I hadn’t done before including Pinched
T got lost gravel biking but didn’t matter and had a nice time in Miss Valley woods
F P again. Did Princess and the p and Bloc party
S
S
M manual bloody DIY
T Obvs boiling so I er...did some routes at Stoney West. Strange being high up
W shed power
T Tried to go to BBG S in the evening but was midged off
F P again . Did Pokemon City limits without matching the crimps somehow
S
S BBG S with Plattsy Tried and failed on a few things and did Flat wall Dyno as a consolation.

[yetix]

21-27SEP2020
M: Jerry's Roof, nearly did bus stop rh first go, heel spur ripped off my half broken shoe, other heels didn't have spur which helps this. Regressed as a result. Move onto huffys problem. Slapped the jug a bunch of times but toehook/scum thing wouldn't stay on. Brief dabble on Wozrel, managed to match into the pod/press once, feels so impropable to slap to the right hand edge, but like it would be over if I could just do that? Maybe go fresher next time and give it a few more beans.
T: rest
W: Tanygrisiau, basically warmed up and got on flick of the wrist. Could quickly do moves 1 (and an intermediate 2) and 3 and 4, seems move 2 is the meat of the problem, felt moderately close to move 2 at first. Was going to leave it for another day then got some local beta and managed to hold move 2 for maybe a second once and a few goes where the flick motion I felt like I slowed down for, but no cigar. Psyched though as the slight beta changes came 4 hours in when my skin and body was regressing! Will try to go back at the weekend.
T: Pantymwyn, managed Gasoline Sit Start, the slightly harder direct sit to Gasoline and Fire Breather, which combines the harder sit with a harder finish. Nice little outdoors training session. Will probably try Sparks Sit and Be Ruthless if I ever end up going back.

F: rest
S: Tanygrisiau, basically warmed up and got on flick of the wrist. Managed to do the 2nd move 4 times but didn't link to the top on any. Could pull on from that position and to to the top everytime once fully warmed up though. Lost alot of skin on my thumb. Keen to go back ASAP when my skin and the weather allows for it.
S: Clogfaeni y Llys, Manou, managed to do all the moves fairly quickly but powered out fast. Managed to get a consolation tick of Manou Direct Start at 7B. Also did from the start of the main bloc to where it meets the direct start, so overlapping halves. Keen to get back on the main line fresher once flick is done.

Not trained for really for a month maybe just gone on steep rock and climbed a fair bit but kept the sessions shorter. Weather isn't looking favourable on my days off which will probably mean a little training to maintain and possibly some time on the lime which should be good for skin recovery.

[gollum]

W/C 21/9/2020

M - Almscliffe, chest, abs, rehab
T - Triceps, rehab, abs, fingers, Lindley Moor
W -Rehab, Depot woods, back, rehab, abs
T - Fingers, rehab, shoulders
F - Sheffield Depot purples and reds, physio, biceps, abs
S - Chest, rehab, abs
S - Depot social session

[Nutty]

Couple of weeks of not very much from me.

Mon: Fingerboard - one-arm hangs at 90% bodyweight on 25mm edge for ~10 seconds. Misc. other exercises.
Tues-Thurs: Rest
Fri: Drive to Devon for family holiday.
Sat: Rest
Sun: Bouldering at Bonehill for a couple of hours in the evening. Busy when I arrived. Not moving very well, limited time on rock this year shows.
Mon: Rest
Tues: Back at Bonehill in the evening. Cooler evening with a bit of a breeze and had the place pretty much to myself. Warmed up, tore a chunk out of my knuckle. Moving better than on Tuesday. Ran out of skin and daylight before I got up anything more than a warm-up though.
Wed-Thurs: Rest.
Fri: Drive home.
Sat-Sun: Rest.

Had a good family holiday, ate too much cake, enjoyed the snatched bouldering sessions. Back to training this week.

[spidermonkey09]

A week in Torridon. Basically every problem was good with only the odd exception (don't bother with Tia Maria). Fell off the top of Malcs Arete about 20 times including once with fingers over the lip, and once where I missed the pads and landed squarely in the bog. Fuck sake. Managed Squelch and Squelch Sit as a consolation. Also squeezed in a trad route at Diabaig which remains one of my favourite ever places to go climbing. A great escape from reality; back down to earth this morning. Its feeling cold though, grit season must be approaching...

[GazM]

What was it about Tia Maria you didn't like Spidermonkey?
I dropped by the main Torridon jumble for an hour on Saturday, first time since January I think. Never seen so many people there! Couldn't blame them with that weather!

[tommytwotone]

Feel like I should conjure a goal...a 7a by the end of the year would be good given where I am now with my climbing.


M - Nowt
T - Big Depot evening - short session, powered out really quick but felt like I was moving well and did an anti-style (steep, pinches, big moves) V5ish
W - Nowt
T - Nowt
F - Big Depot evening. Starting new thing of taking daughter on a Friday night. Session was mainly her on a rope (first time for her), but we had a razz round the bouldering at the end. Didn't really do much of significance but got moving.
S - Nowt, DIY
S - Shipley with the lad, more exploration of the boulders up above Manson's Must which is a brilliant kids' circuit. Had high hopes of doing Alabaster Jack, a SS into a 5+ arete which I'd seen an Insta vid of Will doing. Turns out I'm a) shorter and b) weaker than Will. Who'da thought it. Did the excellent Phantom Rib as a consolation which got the adrenaline pumping.


3 lots of climbing in a week is a plus. Glad both the kids are now keen, so trying to keep that going.

[Will Hunt]

With the nights drawing in I decided to do a spot of training.

Thurs - board session. Warmed up and then began repeating First Catch - ostensibly the easiest named problem on the board. It took a while to repeat. But then did repeat Fatboy Slim quickly and moved onto working Howling Brown. Got some better beta for the first move which should make it go. Stopped after an hour and will try and build up slowly.

Fri - Ab ripper x

Sat - Family day which included a walk up to Shipley Glen for Sprog to get to grips with some little friction slabs.

Sun - Malham. Like climbing inside a solar oven. Some birds accidentally flew into the cove's focal point and were incinerated on the wing. Warmed up then dogged up New Dawn for the first time. Brought a very weak head game and stick clipped past the runout then got ledge fever. Second time up once the shade had arrived was somewhat dehydrated but did link from the ground to the rest at the tufas but was gassed.


Not sure where to focus now. New Dawn doesn't feel like a two-sessioner and I doubt I'll get it done before that wall gets wet again. There was bon con to be had on north facing grit this weekend. Likewise, some grit trad would have been a good bet. I expect I'll get drawn into grit bouldering - and if restrictions are put in place to prevent exercising with other people over the winter then it'll be bouldering only if we're even allowed to travel for exercise. But it would be nice to maintain some fitness over the winter to carry through to next sport season. Maybe some sessions on the upper tier at Malham on bright days? Maybe try and get to the wall for some 4x4s over the winter? I'm unlikely to dedicate enough time to training to really make any improvements unless I focus on bouldering or sport though 

[36chambers]

What was it about Tia Maria you didn't like Spidermonkey?
I dropped by the main Torridon jumble for an hour on Saturday, first time since January I think. Never seen so many people there! Couldn't blame them with that weather!

Did you walk around the Layback/Dyno area with 3 pads on your back?

[spidermonkey09]

What was it about Tia Maria you didn't like Spidermonkey?
I dropped by the main Torridon jumble for an hour on Saturday, first time since January I think. Never seen so many people there! Couldn't blame them with that weather!

I think they must have been scorched off as they all seemed to disappear by lunchtime!

I thought Tia Maria was a grim really bunched one mover sit start into a very good exposed F6Aish arete. I am predisposed against sit starts so am willing to accept that mine might be an extreme opinion, but I didn't think the awkward udging that I would need to do to get established on the arete was worth the effort. My apologies if its your problem! For balance I did loads of problems that the guide didn't really rave about which I thought were ace.

[GazM]

My apologies if its your problem!

Ha, no it's a Mike Lee problem, not mine.
To be fair, I found the sit start a bit of a pain in the arse too!

[Alex-the-Alex]

Fell off the top of Malcs Arete about 20 times including once with fingers over the lip

Another lost in the eye of Malcs arete! Ive had to deliberately avoid looking at it the last few times I've been up...

[spidermonkey09]

Fell off the top of Malcs Arete about 20 times including once with fingers over the lip

Another lost in the eye of Malcs arete! Ive had to deliberately avoid looking at it the last few times I've been up...

I could fall off it there for the rest of my life. Would be great to do it at some point but that move is a bastard. It feels so achievable and yet...

[duncan]

Hi Duncan! (I was one of the group that turned up)

Belated hello!


M - 45 mins run to Kenwood House and back. YYFY! When I was young I ran hills regularly but inconsistently. Being able to keep shuffling for three quarters of an hour was the sign I’d got back some fitness: when it started to become more fun and not completely painful. I moved to my place in 1995, imagining I’d be running around Hampstead Heath regularly. It’s only taken me 25 years to get there.
T - Advertised as the last good day before temperatures plummeted so I was eager to get out despite feeling a bit below par. Headed to Portland but *partner bailed when I was halfway down the M3. Stop-go for the rest of the way trying to arrange someone else, which turned the journey into a 5 hour epic. The whole island was under a cloud of clag and conditions were at their soapy worst. Eventually taken under the wing of a pair at Battleship. Warmed-up on Buoys... then had a go at Pump Hitler. Reached the crux on the flash but got lost in a sea of pockets. Worked out a sequence but was greasing off anything less than an incut and not really inspired to give it a RP try. Should go under slightly better conditions.
W - Feeling below par deteriorated to full-blown lurgy. Brisk walk.
T - Feeling weak as a kitten, got a walk-in CV test**: negative. Brisk walk.
F - Feeling a little better: did a really solid Aerobic Power fingerboard session (7s/3s repeaters at ~60% MVC, on a 15mm edge) x2 mins. x 6 sets.
S - Still tired. Shoulder IsYsTs, planks etc.
S - Still tired. Shoulder strength. Short but sweet set of 10s max. hangs on the 15mm edges. Haven’t done these for a while but doesn’t feel like focusing on PE for a month has resulted in much loss.

*not a regular
**I'm in a study which helps shortcut the testing chaos

Not the most productive week but keeping ticking along. I'd fancy my chances on Pump Hitler given the draws in place, decent conditions, an easier journey, and a familiar belayer. Along with the lad, 15 of his class, the other half, and many of our friends, I had the Autumn back-to-school bug. I took one up the nose for the team and ruled out CV for them.

Extracurricular factors mean not sure what climbing I'll be doing this week.

[SA Chris]

Well if you guys can't do the top of Malc's, reinforces my lack of ever bothering. The Mission looks a lot more my style anyway, but was a puddle last time I was there.

M- run - only managed 8km in the hour, distracted by watching dolphins in Stonehaven Bay.
T - board session. did OK, but stopped while strong.
W - out with the ropes at Boltsheugh, second time clipping bolts in a year! Did a few easier routes, failed on harder ones as it got dark, and moisture started condensing. Quick play on boulders by headtorch. Nice evening.
T - run in Portlethen with son in drama class. Don to coast, then explore coastline from Peel Slough to old Porty to see what there is to do. a few bits and bobs, but Rankin's stomping ground and he's pretty thorough.
F - Beastmaker session. Felt OK.
S - Son at athletics meeting so I stood about in cold wind. Lots of dumbbell curls in the evening.
S - went to climbing wall for the first time in ages. 2 hrs belaying kids (daughter had a paddy at the top of the autobelay and didn't want to let go, lucky the wall was quiet. Guess it happens if you've not been there since March). Son was climbing well though. I bouldered for a bit after, fingers strong, arms weak. T'was forever thus.

Nights closing in, evening sessions are getting tricky.

[GazM]

Well if you guys can't do the top of Malc's, reinforces my lack of ever bothering. The Mission looks a lot more my style anyway, but was a puddle last time I was there.

I'm the opposite. Not sure I'll ever do the start moves of The Mission. Fortunately The Poor Man's Mission misses the start by creeping in from the arete on the right so I'll hopefully get a flavour of it one day.

[SA Chris]

I'm rubbish with jumpy throwy slappy type moves, give me tech crimpy balancy smeary any day

[nai]

Been decorating all week, been a while and finding it pretty tiring, but 8-12 hour days probably shouldn't be surprised really,  don't remember getting pumped painting before though.

M - managed to get out to Burbage North for a couple of hours in the evening.

W - 30 minutes on the garage board

F - The P.
Worked Parklife and did it from a stand but couldn't add the sit start despite numerous attempts and much frustration.
Moved onto Pinched Wall while Dolly and Tom were still on with Pokemon a week later.  Did it using eveything and tried an eliminate version that had a cool tenuous heel rockover.  Hopefully get that next week
Nicely knackered with no expectations went back to Parklife and did it straight away. Tactics.

[JohnM]

Weight - 146lbs

M - Rest

T - Bouldering at Zillergrund Wald. Warmed up at home on the fingerboard building up to doing one max. hang to get fully recruited before driving to the boulders. Went to try Antipop which gets 7C+ from the stand. Basically 3 progressively harder moves of a right heel. I could the first move crossing over to a mirco-crimp every time but only the second move reaching through to a diagonal slopey edge next to the crimp twice. Both times I never felt I could move to make the final "pop" move. Conditions went from dry and breezey to still and drizzly and holding the edges became a struggle and my skin became quickly too sore. Did the classic 7A up the middle of the boulder (Happy Place) and a 7B Bocksprung (vid below) as consolation. Then went deeper into the forest to try the classic compression problem (Briscilla - 7B+) but it was so dark in there I could barely see and conditions were terrible. Ending up back splatting and then giving up for the day.



W - Routes indoors. First indoor route session since March. Went surprisingly well. Close on an 8a and various routes up to 7c+.

T - Rest

F - Routes indoors. Not as good as Wednesday. Had no power and felt pumped all the time.

S - Neil Gresham endurance session on the Lattice rung (12kg assistance - 5 sets). Best session doing this yet and added a 5th set.

S - Routes indoors. Tired but good session. A few 7cs and a 7c+ and then a few 7b+s and 7bs.

A decent week after feeling fatigued earlier in the week. Was good to go outdoor bouldering again and I forgot how hard you have to try. I felt a bit broken the next day from the moves and the falling but it will be good for my routes if I can go more regularly. I feel like my endurance is good at the moment and strength level is up a notch so it would be good to get back on the 8c project when/if it dries out. It is frustrating at the moment as it has gone from hot and humid as hell straight into cold and wet/snowy without the fresh golden Autumn part in between. Considering checking out a backup project that is more reliably dry. 

[Coops_13]

once where I missed the pads and landed squarely in the bog. Fuck sake.

You haven't really tried Malc's arete unless you've landed in the bog on your arse from the top move...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingers garage session. One arm front2 and mid2 on pull up bar x8, up to 7 and 10 kg added. Happy. Press 5x5, clean 5x5, snatch pulls 5x5. Farmer's holds 30/30 x10 90 kg.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights, bar work, loaded carries.
Thu - ab wheel 20x5, farmer's finisher 80 kg 45/15 x6.
Fri - theraband, light boxing bag.
Sat - TB DL, clean and press.
Sun - weights, glutes.

[andy_e]

I dropped by the main Torridon jumble for an hour on Saturday,

Had I have known this we could have recreated the now-famous "me spotting you on Harpoon" photo.