[shark]

11.2-4 Average 157.1 (down 0.1lbs)

M.

T. Afternoon. Warm and humid. Car full of wads. Steve, Buster and new passenger Molly. Just left city limits and we got word from Gresh that Malham was totally condensed. Turned round.  :-) Sulked for a bit and drove to where my systems board is. 23.5 degrees! Tweaked the circuit - stricter on the pinches, made throw a bit harder and incorporated a clipping position. Decent session. Clip of one of the sets below.

W.

T. Afternoon. Malham with Anna who I didn’t know. Turns out her mum taught me French in Devon when I was 11! Good connies at crag when we got there. Was a bit variable through the day but generally good. F@EE and Cons. Put draws in and played on clipping position for 3rd bolt and linked top traverse to top. First tie in went ground to touching horn and clip went fine. Goes after that went to ratshit. Second burn struggled to do initial pop off deck and when I did shoe deformed on crap foothold by first bolt. Third go broke out new pair of whites bu tired and fell going for undercut by third bolt. Fourth go didn’t get anywhere. Last go did throw move but conditions greasy and nearly slipped off horn trying to match it. Massively disappointing. In better news Anna got Zoolook (3rd session)

F.

S.

S. PM Couldn’t face another rest day. Tommy up for going to Crag X. Warm. Holly, Jonathan and Sam Rad there. Sounded like the Tor and Rubicon were rammed. Connies obviously not primo but not bad either. Felt stronger on ever on first 6 moves of JR getting to near end three times but core letting me down on final foot moves. Worked end off ladder but still struggled getting foot on final right foothold. Practiced initial jump move on Moff to kill time while Tommy finished. Stopped strong.



Disappointing session at Malham on Thursday. Blew my chips on the first burn on the Oak. Must have done too much lately and/or come to the end of a cycle. Following morning I scoured last years training diary and power club entries for insight and regrouped. I will take a leaf out of last years playbook to raise my performance by training power and PE interspersed with a couple of sessions on Mescalito as well as shift a few more lbs of deadweight. Will get back on the Oak in 10-14 days and if history repeats itself like last year then I’ll go back on it and repeatedly climb from the ground through the throw move only this time (hopefully) it will stay dry till at least the end of October allowing a decent window of possibility to complete the thing. Ran plan by the Kettle who approved.
At start of week was starting to head slightly the wrong way with bodyweight but reined it back in this weekend so now at year low of 155.4lbs so only 2/3 lbs left to shift.

[205Chris]

Who gave you your intel on the tor today?

Certainly wasn't busy up until I left at 12.

Parking might have been an issue. 4 vans in situ when I arrived pre 9am.

[shark]

Who gave you your intel on the tor today?

Certainly wasn't busy up until I left at 12.

Parking might have been an issue. 4 vans in situ when I arrived pre 9am.

Holly and Jonathan. Said there was parking on the corner in the clearway but off the tarmac at least when they went past. Annoying that the message about vans hasn’t stuck

[tomtom]

Like the metronome shark. Make it a bit steeper? Month by month?

[Bonjoy]

Dab 1:23

[Andy F]

Who gave you your intel on the tor today?

Certainly wasn't busy up until I left at 12.

Parking might have been an issue. 4 vans in situ when I arrived pre 9am.

It got a bit busier around 12:30 with boulderers and someone keen to get on Evolution in the full sun 

[yetix]

7-13SEP2020

Not gonna lie feel like this has been my best week on rock ever. Feeling super happy and got a few days off next week coming up so hopefully keep the ball rolling. Who knew taking double rest days would lead to better performance?

M: rest
T: rest
W: bowderstone, did Grand Opera in 3 goes, so psyched to get that over the line. Was starting to feel mentally exhausting. Tried final curtain from the letterbox and go to going to the slopey edge with right hand first go. Tried once more and reached the same point, think its a body position thing as it doesn't feel like I'm pulling all that hard. Moved onto Ears of Perception and managed to do that too in 3 goes, strange movement on that one and pretty cool imo.

T: rest
F: rest
S: Roof of a Baby Buddha, warmed up at my van pretty well then got on it after getting the top redialed. Managed to get it in 5 goes from the bottom today. Stoked doesn't cover this one, tried this so much in early 2019 (like 4-5 sessions) and never got it over the line after a finger injury when I was close. So to do it in 2 short sessions this year and about 2hours of climbing time later I'm over the moon.

S: bowderstone, tried the crack super direct briefly. That undercut is sharp so moved onto Coming Up for Air, it started raining just as I was near the top so dropped off rather than carrying on as I'd like to top it out , will do next time. Moved onto Hot Air on the ladder face as it was out of the rain. Fucked about with my beta but eventually found a heel which made it straight forward. Tried the end of Final Curtain off a ladder, managed to do all the hard moves of the end but exploded off the v shaped hold and the sloped edge after the unwind due to really humidity I think. Happy with progress on that one.

[Coops_13]

Stonker of a week Yetix   

M: In last week's entry

T: Density pickups, 20mm, R 50lb, L 40lb, 30s *4sets. Crimpd Floor Core. Legs. Squat bar+90lb X10 *5sets. Knee durability 4 exercises *3sets

W: Density pickups, 20mm, R 50lb, L 40lb, 30s *4sets. Lower body stretching. Push. Bench press up to +140lb X3 *3sets. Incline press 40lb X8 *3sets. Rotator cuff exercises. Shoulder press 40lb X8 *3sets. Bicep curl 40lb X8 *3sets. Lateral raise 20lb X8 *3sets, front raise 20lb X8 *3sets. Big sesh

T: Spot Denver. Warmed up on fingerboard. Repeaters 18mm 5s on 3s off X5 *4sets BW. Climbed for c.1 hour, feeling weak (DOMS from day before). Went on Kilter board at 30deg and did 6 problems V2 - 3. 50 pull-ups (5 EMOM) to finish.

F: Density pickups, 20mm, R 50lb, L 40lb, 30s *4sets. Lower body stretching.

Sun: RMNP. Started at Upper Chaos, warmed up doing Not Bacon Wall V5 in a few goes, really good fun above a bit of a pit. Moved on to Travesse V7 which had an awkward hard crux. Finger started feeling tweaky so moved on. Went to Lower Chaos, pulp too sore so just retroflashed Autobot V5 to finish.

[tomtom]

Brilliant stuff Yetix! Superb!

[spidermonkey09]

Amazing week Yetix; great to get the payoff isnt it!

M - rest.

T - max hangs. More solid than previously on -5kg. Completed set with some dodgy form.

W - wall. After reminding myself how to boulder on some of the set problems I went on the board prepared for a spanking which duly arrived. Worked my way up through some 6's on the Stokt app which I enjoyed, doing them both sides in an effort to get accustomed to the style again. Got back up to a 6C before calling it as I felt goosed, unsurprising after first board session since March!

T - shoulders felt totally broken and forearms sore at insertion into elbow; ouch! Poked about and was satisfied it was just 'healthy soreness.' Planned to do some repeaters but given the intensity of the previous session decided to leave it.

F - rest. Drove up to Yorkshire for the weekend.

S - Malham. Totally mint conditions, busy but a good scene. Dogged up Mighty Fine Ass and did it next go; the smears felt like velcro. Good to finish this off after binning it on the crimps at the top a few weeks ago. This is an amazing route and criminally underappreciated; the equal of any 7c+ at the crag. Think Cornice brutality crossed with Malham technicality. Went back on Straightened armed with new foothold beta from a friend. This, along with the groundbreaking realisation that I just needed to pull harder unlocked a sequence for the first bolt. After a false start I got through to the Baboo resting tufa but came off the boulder feeling knackered and left it for the day. Watched Anna G nearly do GBH in a session at the end. 

S - Malham again. Not as mint as the previous day but windy enough that the sun didn't really heat the rock up. After losing patience I had a redpoint on Straightened in the last of the sunlight and fell off the end of the Baboo crux. Slightly concerned I had shot my bolt for the day so had a long rest. After falling off the start next go I somehow scraped through and made it to the tufa feeling pretty worked. Fortunately it clicked on the Baboo crux this time and the headwall was without major alarms. Pleased with this, hard 8a with that start I think. Belayed Scott on Connect and finished off with Henry's Route which starts up Appetite before doing the top bit of Mighty Fine Ass. Probably 7c this way and not as good as the direct start but worthwhile.

Great weekend where I felt like I climbed well. Back in Yorkshire next weekend before going to Torridon for the week next Monday so lots to be psyched for.

[SA Chris]

M - run 8km, had time to do more, but nutrition wrong, felt a bit shaky.
T - lunchtime boulder with andy e. Showed him the new stuff at Pheppie, we both did the arete that i didn't do last week due to rising tide. Couple more probs before had to let it home. Kettlebells in evening, i think.
W - Beastmaker session - App - Beastie A. Struggled through it, but can now hang slopers with conviction, looks like board session are paying off.
T - Met mate at lunch for a quick go on shunt of a new route I's spotted. Nice to know a L3 rigger, he set rope up ready. Glad to find bomber gear on it, nee to go back for the lead. We reckoned E1 but good climbing.
F - Weight session evening.
S - Bouldering at Pheppie. Had to take son with me, he did well on sketchy ascent, and did a couple of good probs. Split skin from nail slapping for a hold with spike in the middle, game over. Dumbbell flies eve
S - Bike ride with kids. Core evening.

[tomtom]

Mon: Half arsed assisted one armers... thats not a new exercise btw :D

Tues: Rest. Needed it. Mon was 8th day in a row...

Weds: Board Day! Should have been good having had a rest day. I was shite... managed 30-40 min before giving up. No snap and feet skidding off everything means core wasnt engaging etc.. Went back in the evening and did another 30-40 min - still fairly crap but slightly better.

Thurs. Assisted 1 armers. Much better than Mon - down to -10kg and did a few reps there.

Friday: Dogs Dinner Buttress/Area with Nai and Dolly. First time visit for all of us - lots of potential, but we couldn't figure out where anything on PB was - apart from Haydns 7B... We all ended up working a really good 6C(ish - maybe a little more) line about 1/4 way along from the left - that had some great sidepulls and a high up pull on the RH on a positive ear up to a finishing edge/ledge just above a clip. No idea what it was - but was really good - deserves a star or two. Except nai hurt his back on it I went and screamed alot at Haydns 7B but didnt get too far. As we were scratching our heads looking for stuff Haydn & Friend showed up and basically said make it all up as theres very little recorded. Spent another 30 min trying other stuff - inc a good 6Cish sit start about half way across - and went. Dolly tried to sell me a jacket - and when I tried it on he decided he wanted to keep it :D

Sat: Wife away in London so me and the lad for Sat and Sunday. After 6 hours of non stop lego building I managed to drag him out to Brownstones. If you were there - I was that person who dragged a crying moaning toddler to the crag on Saturday afternoon - apologies for disturbing your peace. Went and set up camp in the Dezerit area (etc..) and climbed really badly on low 6's in the sun. The boy played lego on my bouldering mat - insterspersed with wanting to hang out right next to a steep drop (thank god his mother didnt see..). Highlight were two old timers turning up and one of them was talking through how he was going to get up every problem he tried - and then not getting off the deck. Me and his pal were having a bit of a crack exchanging 'right' looks at each other

Sun: Bad nights sleep. Lad up early. Existed on autopilot all day - filthy mood. Picked up MrsTT at the station at 3 - and negotiated an evening pass. Snuck out to Helsby about 5:30 - warmed up OK - and then went on to the Barrel Buttress where I've been playing on the 7B problem Ron Burgandys Moustache. I'd worked most of it out - but never linked it - as the lower traverse section involves a couple of long moves on pretty small crimps then into an old school (English 5c)  highball finish. Anyway, wasnt feeling that good on it - and as the sun set the light was great, so set up the camera to take a couple of nice stills from failure videos. And then got up it!!



Genuinely surprised - 8 years I've been trying this problem on or off. I hadn't cleaned up the top holds or top out so had a few moments on the way up the headwall (its taller than it looks on the low placed camera shot..) - superb. Sun set. Went home.
 

[Yossarian]

Two weeks of quarantine training followed by first trip back to the wall on Saturday - yay. Former mainly consisted of weights, pull-ups and stretching. Weighed 97something kg the other day which is 10kg down from early summer.

Did some fingerboard and weighted pull-up benchmarking last week and was amazed to discover that my BM2000 middle slot one-arm max was -16kg (by the skin of my teeth). The best I managed last year was -18. The latter was at around 85kg and I was 101 on the scales before doing the former. After spending some time crunching the complex mathematics, I discovered that, if I continue to erode my flab and regain a svelte physique at around 85kg, I would be able to hang that slot without any assistance. Got extremely excited by this and celebrated with a big bowl of broccoli...

[duncan]

Good to read about others getting out and doing stuff.

Watch out for the Lego tt, a friend broke her foot quite nastily stepping on a brick.

M - 5km shuffle.
T - Fingerboard: Aerobic Power session (7s repeaters at ~50% MVC) 2 mins. x 6 sets.
W - Bodyweight stuff for shoulder strength: handstands etc.
T - Dorset trip. Thought about another session on Road Rage but the forecast suggested conditions would be good at the Promenade (less than 1’ swell, low tide at 4pm).  I also liked the idea of actually getting up something so drove to Swanage and met up with Sean. The crag was bone dry (unusually) and deserted (as usual). Tempted by Tesselations or Birth Pains ... - both look excellent - but didn’t think I had quite enough for a one day ascent and it could be some time before I next get a chance to try them.  Did the two easy routes by the descent then got on All Apologies. Blew the onsight by not warming-up fully and not trying hard enough when it really mattered. Worked out a more efficient sequence and it went fine. Disappointment at missing the OS was slightly mitigated by discovering it gets 7a+ in the RockFax (it’s not). Either way it’s good climbing. Warmed-down on the fine Chicago Peace.
F - Battered. Shoulders as above.
S - Shuffled for 6km. Fairlop Waters concrete boulders with the lad. Couldn’t do any of the Enormous Roofed Block roof problems as my arms still had Swanage in them. Good family fun nonetheless.
S - Fingerboard: Aerobic Power session (7s repeaters at 55% MVC) 2 mins. x 6 sets.


The Promenade is one of the better sport crags in the south of England if you’re climbing 7s: the rock is excellent and the setting is superb. The trad. routes are not shabby either. It’s very close to the sea and notoriously hard to get in condition but was very good on Thursday. Happy to tick another 7, should try something a bit harder next time out.

Plan: continue with the power-endurance fingerboarding. The lad has a birthday this weekend but will try to get out midweek whilst the weather is good.

[gollum]

Great stuff Yetix. Grand Opera and Hot Air are great ticks on the Bowderstone.

A new week and the start of a new 6 week cycle. Bit of a hiccup but still very positive.

M - Bench press for recruitment. Keep the reps low. 3x5 for standard bench with weight @ 80k, then on to single reps to a towel on my chest. Keep going to 105k, which is by far heaviest lift since lockdown. On to singles on the incline, work up to 80k. Finish chest with dumbbell presses for sets of 3 reps, starting at 30k and working up  by 2.5 per set to 40k. Do some hamstring rehab stuff  between sets.
Weather dreadful, so head to Depot. Black circuit again with friends, plus a couple of reds and purples and working a couple of yellows. Most enjoyable and entertaining. Avoiding heel hooks as much as possible to protect my hamstring, which came through unscathed, which is a result.
Steady 5k walk on the treadmill, followed by range of mobility exercises.

T - Working triceps today. Start with 5x3 close grip presses, working up to 75k. Then skull crushers for 5x3 and rolling skull crushers for 3x3. French presses for 3x5 for the long head. Cable tricep press for 3x4, superset with bar dips. Next on to 3x4 single arm rope presses.
For core and abs I lower into a mix of single leg levers and straddle levers.
Despite what is a reasonable forecast, try and fail to find any dry rock north of Leeds. End up at Ilkley, having driven past Caley and scoped Almscliffe across the valley. When I get there only the very centre of the Calf is anything like dry, so do a couple of the easiest eliminates and then give in.
Pop in to Depot, work on a couple of yellows again, do one of the remaining purples and play on some of the new woods, until I feel a twang in my hamstring/glute again and think it’s best to stop actual climbing for the day and not do any moves that involve heel hooks or rock overs until I’ve taken advice.
Do some repeaters for the first time in ages. Go through the range of holds and mix up the size of holds on pockets between the small and medium ones, except for back 2. Struggling on a few of the sets at the end, so will ease it back and work up to this in future.
Sort out physio appointment as leg is much sorer than it has been. Some good advice on here though on how to deal with it.

W - Gym is a steady back day. Start with pull ups for 5x5 adding weight each set. Solid at 20k, but more ropey at 25k, although definitely still in reasonable form; pulling to chin rather than chest on last couple of reps. Move on to wide grip lat pull downs for sets of 3, increasing weight by 10 each set up to 90. Heavy dumbbell bent over rows are next for three sets, keeping speed as high as possible. Move on to two arm machine pull downs with a lock at the bottom of each rep. Single arm reps on the pull down machine, going as deep as possible at bottom of rep, whilst keeping weight heavy enough that I can’t push through the lock point by using momentum. Finish off doing alternate single arm pulls on the cable machine; starting at 30 and adding 2.5 up to 50k, where I do two reps. Solid exercise.
Lever raises for my core in the afternoon
Visit to physio. Confident that the problem is in the hamstring and she used a big word but explained it very well. Given exercises to help recovery and reduce the risk in the future.

T - Still struggling with my hamstring and limping a bit.
Shoulder day for the weights. Start with 5x5 machine shoulder press with both hands. Single arm machine presses for 3x3 up next. Finish presses with standing barbell presses for 3x5 going up to 50k. Alternate front raises for 5x5 increasing weight each set. Last set feels proper tough at 18k. Lateral raises, same protocol as front raises but lower weight, still feels tough though. Supine dumbbell shoulder raises and prone dumbbell raises for the front and rear of the shoulder. Finish with IYTW with 1k dumbbells and scapular movements for a bit of stability in the small muscles.
Run through all of my rehab exercises for strength and flexibility and then finish with some abs work.......old fashioned sit ups.

F - Still limping. Meet friend for a brew at the Depot and then do some repeaters. Keep on the conservative holds for me and feels much better, completing each set properly. Also do physio exercises while I’m here.
Bicep work in the gym. Start with EZ preacher curls fr 5x5 with increasing weight, although only get 3 reps on last set, so pause before last 2. Follow it up with three sets of incline curls, ensuring that keep firm and don’t use any momentum. Move on to concentration curls for 3x3 at 22. ( 0.5k seems to make a huge difference with this exercise). Cable curls next for 5x5, finishing at 30.
Fifteen minutes of various floor exercises for abs.
Back to physio. Bruise now coming out in leg. Slight modification to exercises but fundamentally continuing with the same.

S - Rest day, apart from several sessions doing hamstring rehab exercises and a walk round the shops in Leeds.

S - Limp is improving and certainly walking better on my whole foot rather than just the ball. The bruising is diminishing, so everything is going in the right direction.
Weights session, as Mrs B is out running for a couple of hours. Bench press without safety bars for 3 reps up to 95k, which feels very solid indeed. On to decline bench singles up to 100. Smith machine  incline press for 4x3 up to 85. Finish off with leg raises for abs and go through rehab exercises again.......and again later in the day.

Not the week I had planned but solid enough at picking things up and putting them down and confident will be climbing again soon.

[Dolly]

M Had planned to go out but drizzle. Had my first hard shed session since elbow rehab
T Local MTB. New dropper post on my hardtail is ace
W Crag S in Matlock. Nice place - bit noisy by the main road. Did a few things and thought I'd done Friendless Friends but the Southern Esoteric topo says it should be a sit and no mention of that in BMC guide which I had with me Grrr.
T Local MTB again. Found a lovely local bit of trail which I did 3 times in each direction.
F Dog's Dinner with TT and Nai - see TT's report
S
S Monkii/TRX workout

[Nutty]

Mon-Tues: Rest

Wed: Garden board session. 10 warm-up problems then trying harder things. Had regressed on one project where I'd been reliably sticking the crux last week, think I held it once this session? Good progression on another though, went from something that I could do two moves on and hit a brick wall to something I could do in overlapping sections and could go any try. Pull-ups and stretching.

Thurs-Sat: Rest. Wander around local nature reserve on Saturday morning.

Sun: Garden board session. 10 warm-up problems. Had intended to do an ancap-style session but after the first two reps of a 12-move problem my skin felt terrible. Decided to work on my board projects a bit more as the holds on them are a bit more skin-friendly. No further progress, couldn't reach my high point on the problems I tried. Pull-ups and stretching.

Not a great week. Lacked a bit of psyche for training, hence all the rest days.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - BM pockets + 2 kg x5. 45" rings I in between. TB DL and pull ups 5 x10.
Tue - gym. Legs and stuff.
Wed - weights.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - rest, track day with Ohvale GP0 bikes.
Sat - big session, pull ups 30" 4x10; TB DL 10x5 EMOM x2 70 kg; static holds overhead and rack, 1'/1' x10 38 kg. Hard.
Sun - rest, 400 kms of twisty roads.

[JohnM]

Amazing week Yetix! I remember I had an amazing week like that bouldering about 10 years ago. Make sure you milk it because I have never had another one  Also your ascent of Baby Buddha reminds me that that it is still on my UK list of boulders to finish around the 7c+/8a grade. These include Devon Sent and 36 Chambers SS as well.

Weight - 147lbs

M - Shoulder recruitment/stability and core + various weighted hangs and pullups. An unstructured session but still a good work out. A night run to get accustomed to running in the dark and test my head torch before running through the night in an Ultra on Friday. 6km 365m height gain.

T - Gresham endurance session on Lattice rung (- 12kg x 4 sets). I needed to switch to the large top rail for the pullups and leg raises at the end of the fourth set. This is a brutal session and never seems to get any easier.

W - Weighted hangs and pullups again and assisted one arm hangs on the Beastmaker central slot. Fairly unstructured again but a good session.

T - Was hoping to do a max. hangs session but work stress and dealing with my ex. landlord trying to rip me off took over, as well as preparing my kit for my Ultra.

F - Innsbruck K110 Ultra day 1. The starters were split into two groups with me in group B setting of at 23:10pm, 10 minutes after group A. I set off really fast as after 1km you enter a narrow gorge with a big drop on the right and no overtaking opportunities. Luckily by the time we entered the gorge I was leading group B, and later managed to overtake the back end of group A on a wider forest road. I then got blocked for about 5 km on the next set of single trails by the mid-pack of group A, but this was actually probably a good thing as it reduced my pace. Everything went to plan and I was hitting my split times from my recce run. However, my rechargeable head torch battery died after 2 hours which made it stressful wondering how long the spares would last. Apart from that it was really enjoyable aside from feeling the lack of sleep at the marathon distance.

S -  Innsbruck K110 Ultra day 2 - I got to the "half way" point about 5:30am had some coffee and some food and was feeling good again. The next part of the run was really enjoyable as sun came up but then I had some stomach cramps between KM 65 and 70 which was unpleasant. The next 15km are brutally steep up the side of the mountain up to the amazing Zirbenweg trail. This was brutally hard but I was expecting it so just ran when I could and hiked the steep bits. Then an amazing couple of kilometers along the Zirbenweg and the final 15km of descent. This was hard but my legs seemed to have gone numb by this stage so wasn't too painful until the last 3km that became a long, slow, painful grind! I was happy to finish my first 100+km Ultra even though the socially distanced finish into the Tivoli stadium was a bit anti-climatic. Overall the run went as good as I hoped and I finished under my target time of 16 hours in 15h23m and in 33rd place. 103km 4500m height gain.

S - Climbing in the Imst region. Went to one crag but it was an oven. Did one 7a that removed most of my skin. Retreated to Kofnertal which is a nice quiet spot sheltered in a deep river gorge. Tried a 7c+ there up a slightly overhanging groove. This turned out not to be the best choice the day after running an ultra as it was extremely physical and involved a lot of contortion, pressing and extended bridging. I got close but ultimately fell off the red point crux exiting the groove. Finished the day by sitting in an ice cold river with a can of cider.

A good week and now the only non-cancelled race of the year is over it is time to concentrate on climbing again as the temps become more bearable and Autumn arrives. I would like to get back on the 8c at Schleier I tried and need to work out what I need to do in the next couple of weeks to give myself the best possible chance (lose 2kg and do a lot of PE?). In reality I probably don't have much chance as I have no real momentum coming out of summer. I also need to rely on the season lasting until the end of November like it did 2 years ago, as well as getting regular partners for that crag and that particular sector of the crag. Anyway, it would be nice to even come close and have some inspiration for training over winter.

[abarro81]

Amazing week Yetix! I remember I had an amazing week like that bouldering about 10 years ago. Make sure you milk it because I have never had another one 

Yeah, milk the good runs of form - sometimes you've just hit a new level, other times you'll spend the next X years trying to find that magic again!

I tried and need to work out what I need to do in the next couple of weeks to give myself the best possible chance (lose 2kg and do a lot of PE?).

I think you're under-training, a few more 100km runs should do the trick.

[JohnM]

Quote from: JohnM on Today at 12:22:03 pm
I tried and need to work out what I need to do in the next couple of weeks to give myself the best possible chance (lose 2kg and do a lot of PE?).
I think you're under-training, a few more 100km runs should do the trick.

I am thinking of trying more specific training. I am now aerobically prepared to arrive at the base of the route relatively fresh after the walk-in. Now I need to think how I will get though the initial V6 sequence without getting too tired. The rest will follow.

[spidermonkey09]

F - Innsbruck K110 Ultra day 1.
S -  Innsbruck K110 Ultra day 2
S - Climbing in the Imst region.

I can't even fathom that you went climbing without even taking a rest day after an ultra.

[andy_e]

Now I need to think how I will get though the initial V6 sequence without getting too tired.

Climb faster

[Fiend]

He's another fucking gollum. Don't try to comprehend and just accept that they are extreme outliers.

LOL @barrow's suggestion, very good.

[Will Hunt]

Just a Wednesday evening hit to Almscliff for Big Greeny. Had seconded it in late 2007 so a retroflash. Had always been wigged out by the top out as my only memory of the route was groping around in sloping nothing until I found an incut edge. In fact you actually go slightly right and top out up some decent little crimps to positive flutings and pockets. So I've been mistaken about what the crux of the route was for the last 13 years or so!

In the Lakes on holiday this week. Plans are a bit up in the air as currently sat in hospital with Sprog who was on oxygen most of the night. Antibiotics have started and fingers crossed we'll be out of here by the evening.