[slab_happy]

Jesse Dufton's led El Matador on Devil's Tower:

https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/hardest-ascent-devils-tower-blind-climber/

[PeteHukb]

Amazing. Hard to comprehend, really.

[rodma]

I guess the joker would be one of the easiest 8As to flash from a technical point of view. If you're strong enough.. As someone that's never touched it, how do the holds compare to,  say,  the 6mm/8mm micro crimps? If one could do a similar move off the beastmaker 8mms for example,  would the flash be on?

Umm, as someone who has relatively strong fingers and tried ilthe ace back when my fingers were at their best, there's actually quite a lot else going on in that problem. Everything feels wrong position-wise (at least it did to me), which makes the flash outrageous, his and Adam's.

[rodma]

I guess the joker would be one of the easiest 8As to flash from a technical point of view. If you're strong enough.. As someone that's never touched it, how do the holds compare to,  say,  the 6mm/8mm micro crimps? If one could do a similar move off the beastmaker 8mms for example,  would the flash be on?

Umm, as someone who has relatively strong fingers and tried ilthe ace back when my fingers were at their best, there's actually quite a lot else going on in that problem. Everything feels wrong position-wise (at least it did to me), which makes the flash outrageous, his and Adam's.

That's not me saying in any way I was strong or good enough to do it, rather the opposite, neither strong enough to break it, nor able enough to weight my left foot well.

[Wood FT]

I say this as a genuine question for those who would know - have the crimps got bigger on the joker over the years and years of fondling?

[Dingdong]

I say this as a genuine question for those who would know - have the crimps got bigger on the joker over the years and years of fondling?

Nah people just use the lame swing beta to do it. I've seen one tall bloke basically jump off the rock straight to the jug, not sure how people take 8A for it when you got careless round the corner

[Moo]

If only there was someone who had an absolutely stellar anecdote about how having strong fingers won’t necessarily get you up the joker quickly vs finding the proper technique.

[sirlockoff]

I can't claim neither strong fingers or technique however I did manage to do 2 pullups on 6mm but could not hold the joker, the crimps are weird, they are slopey.

wonder if max trained on Ned's joker replica holds

[SA Chris]

wonder if max trained on Ned's joker replica holds

On IG he said he hadn't..