[MischaHY]

I'm curious about the amount of volume you're doing. Whats the goal here?

Training for training is fine by me but I'm curious what such a high volume combo of weights and climbing is looking to achieve.

I feel like based on this you'd easily up your max in all activities by taking 2 more rest days per week and focusing on session quality.

I also used to love marathon training weeks but stopped when I realised it didn't really get me anywhere. I'd be interested to know how you respond to a lower volume higher intensity work block. 

Extra points for effort though   

What's odd here is that I really don't see that much volume.  Lots of description, but not that much volume.  Here's a shortened version:

"M - Lift-DL and chest for form. Quick look at Caley, easy circuits and a few go's at project.
T - Lift-Dl for speed, triceps multi-exercise, core. Rainy so indoor session, mixed volume on a variety of stuff, short campus and board session.
W - Short hard DL session, core, velocity pullups. Still riany so indoor session again-depot red circuit flash all but one.
T - Outside - short projecting session, but need spotter. KB swings, max hangs, shoulder work, core.
F - Lift - Paused DL, Biceps, Core.  Depot - hard session on yellows.
S - Short outdoor session almscliff. messing on traverse.  Lift - DL, core.
S - Rest

Big DL week. "

As far as training goes, it seems about spot on for a focus on DL, general body, Fingers and a good amount of climbing movement.

I must say I was more thinking about more quality rest. Volume was the wrong word, apologies.

[Yossarian]

watched a friendly French bloke working Rubis sur dongle. Skin pretty sore by this point.

Ruby on the memory stick?

Sounds like a good week. We were thinking about Font and Paris in October holidays, but concerned if quarantines are back in place kids won't be able to go back to school.

I corrected that twice. Maybe they should rename it!

I thought that it was unlikely quarantine will be removed this year, and had bought new tent and various other stuff (and really wanted to get away) so just went for it. I guess a better testing on return protocol could cut quarantine to a few days-week, but then again we’re not a first division / organised / well-governed country...

[Nutty]

Mon: Board session. Made progress on one of the problems I've been trying for the last couple of months, catching the hold on the crux move and keeping my feet on a couple of times - dropped the move to the penultimate hold both times that I got through the crux. Practised the finishing moves after that and tried a couple of new problems. Pull-ups and stretching.

Tues: Rest

Wed: Fingerboard session. One arm hangs @ 90% bodyweight on 25mm edge.

Thurs: Ancap-style session on the board. Completed 5 of 8 attempts at 12 move problems which is one more than last time. Pull-ups and stretching.

Fri-Sun: Rest.

Ok week. Progress on the board and in the ancap session. Didn't get a run in though so will have to do something this week.

[spidermonkey09]

Good week for a few on here. Nice one on Fast Cars TT, I thought that was desperate. Love the Boardman boulder.

M - rest. Gave blood in the morning in an effort to minimise training downtime.

T - max hangs. Steady progression again, a full set at 6.25kg assist. It takes me ages to get max hangs going again after a break but getting there now.

W - rest.

T - birthday! Celebrated with a session of Anderson hangs as girlfriend was on long days.  Another solid session, base weight of +5kg on bottom outside and battery edge and +6.25kg battery 3FD. Failed on last rep of all of them so look to have found current ceiling. Might introduce the 10mm micros again for something different.

F - rest.

S - walk in the Peak. Crap weather and hordes of people around Mam Tor put me in a bad mood but I should have been prepared for carnage I suppose. Walk was quite pleasant once we got going.

S - met Will at Malham. Everything a big soggy but imagine the sun yesterday will have gone a long way toward fixing it. Tried the bottom of Straightened which I found totally nails, although wasn't really climbing well. Its a shame the first bolt is so grim as it climbs well from there onwards. Linked the crux of Baboo to the top again at least. Will tried his best to short rope me on every clip as he was learning to use his new knock off grigri.

Might give Yorkshire a swerve this coming weekend depending on the forecast. I dislike the Loughborough wall but am missing the volume of problems so might brave a visit at some point in the week around the fingerboarding.

[mr chaz]

M. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs
T.
W. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs. Messed around on the micros and hung the 6mm for 5 seconds.
T.
F. Visiting family in Weymouth
S. "
S. "

Finished my MSc last week. Now for some climbing!

[yetix]

Decided to log what I'm doing again, here's the last 2 weeks:

16-30AUG2020
M:
T:
Max hangs upto 3x+32.5kg 10s
W:
Greesy bowderstone, regressed slightly on grand going for the 2nd to last hold twice throughout the session.
T:
F :
am: Max hangs upto 3x+32.5kg 10s
pm: BUK 55 board, worked through to what were the end of my warm ups/mid difficulty when I last went in maybe February. Seem to have lost a bit of tension maybe as the holds felt nicer than I recall.
S:
S:
- Ogof, managed to send Wherever I Lay My Hat as quickly as anything around that grade before probably)
- Caseg, tried Main Vein. Can get the heel up alot of the time but it seems hard to be precise. Need to slow down the slap a little perhaps to the next sloper.
- Parisellas Cave, quick session refamiliarising on Ferrino sans pocket for a future session.
M:
T:
Max hangs 3x+32.5kg (2x7.5s,1x10s)
W:
Rhiw Goch, tried Nazguls Traverse, got all the moves, but struggled linking them. Found keeping the heel on for the rollover the living end.
Parisellas Cave, 2nd crag of the day and back on Ferrino sans pocket briefly. Managed to link from the bottom to the pinch but couldn't land into the final RA slot. Should probably start going and trying this first crag of the day...
T:
Depot, just went round doing volume on the purples for around an hour and a half. Fun session and nice to catch up with some folk.
F:
S:
Bowderstone, continuing the seige of Grand Opera. Regressed from previous sessions for first 3 hours and couldn't realise why. Realised I'd been placing the heel in a stupid way and quickly got to the last move a bunch of times but couldn't seem to keep it together.
S:

Also went back to the Bowderstone yesterday with shite skin and clearly still fatigued and fell off the top a bunch more. Think I must have done to the last move of grand easily in excess of 10 times in the last 2 sessions which at the very least is good training I guess  hopefully a few days way enforced by the rain to grow some skin and go back fresh will do me good.

Lots of failing at the end of problems atm, but hoping it's lining up the dominos to fall in quick succession at some point.

[tommytwotone]

At what point were you reading gollum's updates and thinking "This guy is trying to train effectively for climbing prowess"?? 

I thought Gollum doing a load of weights, then going to the Depot, then getting bored and going to City Bloc for a go on the Kilter Board was a slight indication!

[Nibile]

W. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs. Messed around on the micros and hung the 6mm for 5 seconds.

If that's one armed on the 6 mm, you are the only existing god to me.

[mr chaz]

W. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs. Messed around on the micros and hung the 6mm for 5 seconds.

If that's one armed on the 6 mm, you are the only existing god to me.

There's a short list of things I can do with one arm, hanging a 6mm micro is not one

[Coops_13]

W. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs. Messed around on the micros and hung the 6mm for 5 seconds.

If that's one armed on the 6 mm, you are the only existing god to me.

There's a short list of things I can do with one arm, hanging a 6mm micro is not one

[tommytwotone]

Actually getting back into it.


M: 5km run on lunch. Can't recall time but it was 27mins-ish which is better than the 29-ish I ran the week before.
T: Big Depot session after work. First time indoors in ages. Lots of easy volume, pulled hard a few times including getting up a V5-ish.
W: 6km run after work. 29mins-ish. Happy with that, was a very pleasant evening to be out too.
T: Nowt. Curry (at home) and a few beers with the other half.
F: Nowt.
S: Out at Leeds Urban Bike Park with eldest, who's mad for cycling now. Spent ages there, it's a brilliant place. Loads of circuits of a little off-road-y circuit that's there for the kids.
S: As above, met up with T2 and mini-T2 at Holmfirth for a brownie point-gathering "give the missus some peace" / get some climbing done win-win extravaganza. Dragged myself up Old Lace (6c) which I could even pull onto a couple of weeks back.
M: Park with kids. Assorted running about, chasing kids on bikes and scooters, then a kickabout on the football pitch.


Good week.


Booze-free until Thurs, and most days I managed to do some kind of mindfulness exercise too. Seem to be in a much better place mentally than I was ~ a year ago, but think that's a lot to do with being in a job that I didn't realise was awful until I finally left.

[Nibile]

W. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs. Messed around on the micros and hung the 6mm for 5 seconds.

If that's one armed on the 6 mm, you are the only existing god to me.

There's a short list of things I can do with one arm, hanging a 6mm micro is not one