[Nutty]

Opportunity cost?

[Fiend]

I'm going to hazard a guess that Ban-y-gor 7c is not quite the elbow / shoulder therapy Duncan is looking for. Then again, Ban-y-gor in general isn't!

Csl - Reynard's is cool eh, quite a striking view looking out from above it.

[andy popp]

Thursday - Wye Valley with Duncan. Ended up at Ban-y-gor in the mizzle and did a few easy things which had remained dry-ish. Fell off a 6c & 6b+, which is a bit crap but given the conditions I'll give myself a break. The Crawl buttress looked like it has some good mid 7's to return for.

csl/duncan - having rediscovered Ban-y-gor this year, def walk along to the main cliff - Heady Days is fantastic positions at the grade, and Almost Me is prob the best 7c I've done in this country (apart from Mark of the Beast).

I've only had one day there but was impressed. I did one of mid-7s on the Head sector, which was great, and Latest Craze (when it was somewhat underbolted), which is a really cool little route.

[duncan]

Duma - thanks for the recommendations. ByG is definitely worth a second look when the Wye isn’t feeling like a temperate rainforest. 

Simon - possible negative effects: mainly opportunity cost, it’s a distraction from the main (physiological) business of training power and power-endurance. I also wonder - and this is speculation - if training isometrically, at low intensity, with a slow rate-of-contraction, has a small negative effect on “contact strength” ie ability to develop high forces rapidly.

[spidermonkey09]

It was also 30 degrees outside!

Attempted to train yesterday with the fan on full blast and felt like conditions were the major limiting factor. Must be worth a least a kilo on max hangs I'd have thought.

[tomtom]

Yeah did a session at 1pm in our attic room yesterday. Surprisingly good - mid 30’s in there. At least no chance of a cold muscle pull 😂

[shark]

Simon - possible negative effects: mainly opportunity cost, it’s a distraction from the main (physiological) business of training power and power-endurance. I also wonder - and this is speculation - if training isometrically, at low intensity, with a slow rate-of-contraction, has a small negative effect on “contact strength” ie ability to develop high forces rapidly.

Thanks Duncan. I was drawn to them as I always wanted to try out longer hangs as John Cook reported he got good results from a 30 sec on 30 sec off set after doing his training sessions. Must admit my gut feel is that I don’t feel they have contributed anything extra. However the speed pulls/recruitment pulls combo was a great fix for contact strength - better than campusing