Sun: Up at 6 to try and beat the weather. Got to Rubicon for 7:30. Left at 9 as the first few climbers arrived.
Quote from: tomtom on August 09, 2020, 08:43:23 pmSun: Up at 6 to try and beat the weather. Got to Rubicon for 7:30. Left at 9 as the first few climbers arrived.
Quote from: 205Chris on August 09, 2020, 09:37:51 pmQuote from: tomtom on August 09, 2020, 08:43:23 pmSun: Up at 6 to try and beat the weather. Got to Rubicon for 7:30. Left at 9 as the first few climbers arrived. Hi Chris - was that you I spoke to briefly? Sorry I didn’t recognise you - Was in a bit of a bustle to get home (and was I a bit of a fug).. Hope you had a decent session!
The weird elbows thing, I don't know if anyone else gets this? Sometimes when feeling tired towards the end of a climbing day (normally a last climb of the day sort of feeling), I'll get a weird 'tightness' in my elbows. I can feel them trying to close and it seems to require some force to push my arms straight and get my elbows locked out. Also happened on my fourth tie-on of the day last Saturday which makes me think it's something related to cramp or nutrition/recovery related?
... climbing c.300m of slab in Solutions in 35C weather was not entirely comfortable...
S - Another scorcher. Drove to Hampshire, bought a 150 year old German ‘cello for £525 (sounds glorious and tentatively had it valued at £6-8000 - YYFY!), acquired a large chip on the car windscreen (NNFN!).
Simon, that sounds like a decent session for mid August. I've been meaning to post something on the pointlessness/negative effects of "density hangs" for someone who doesn't suffer from significant tendon problems and has a multi-decade career of trad. climbing behind them but you wisely seem to have put them on the back burner.
Out of interest what are density hangs?Thanks Dave
Quote from: Davo on August 11, 2020, 07:13:05 amOut of interest what are density hangs?Thanks DaveThey're described in the second workout description here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/Essentially 2-arm hangs for 20-40 seconds.
Thursday - Wye Valley with Duncan. Ended up at Ban-y-gor in the mizzle and did a few easy things which had remained dry-ish. Fell off a 6c & 6b+, which is a bit crap but given the conditions I'll give myself a break. The Crawl buttress looked like it has some good mid 7's to return for.
Quote from: csl on August 11, 2020, 09:18:56 amThursday - Wye Valley with Duncan. Ended up at Ban-y-gor in the mizzle and did a few easy things which had remained dry-ish. Fell off a 6c & 6b+, which is a bit crap but given the conditions I'll give myself a break. The Crawl buttress looked like it has some good mid 7's to return for.csl/duncan - having rediscovered Ban-y-gor this year, def walk along to the main cliff - Heady Days is fantastic positions at the grade, and Almost Me is prob the best 7c I've done in this country (apart from Mark of the Beast).
Quote from: Nutty on August 11, 2020, 07:42:12 amThey're described in the second workout description here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/Essentially 2-arm hangs for 20-40 seconds.This reminds me of a session I used to do many years ago, involving 1' lock offs on 10 mm edge for reps. Talk about healthy elbows.
They're described in the second workout description here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/Essentially 2-arm hangs for 20-40 seconds.