To continue proving the point that the future is indoors Kieran has also gone and done pilgrimage now too https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDPAdCMAvw_/?igshid=xh87azmb3iym
Quote from: Orrincoley on July 29, 2020, 07:33:59 pmTo continue proving the point that the future is indoors Kieran has also gone and done pilgrimage now too https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDPAdCMAvw_/?igshid=xh87azmb3iymHow does a repeat of a problem done in 2004 prove that the future is indoors? For me the future will be when the folk that are strong from an indoor scene, put the time in to do hard new problems outside. Burden of Dreams still sits alone, and I don't think Nalle was doing much competing when he put in the effort over the years on the one. Maybe there will be a more profound split between inside and the pursuit of hard new problems outside, possibly this has taken place allready.
Quote from: Andy W on July 29, 2020, 08:16:41 pmQuote from: Orrincoley on July 29, 2020, 07:33:59 pmTo continue proving the point that the future is indoors Kieran has also gone and done pilgrimage now too https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDPAdCMAvw_/?igshid=xh87azmb3iymHow does a repeat of a problem done in 2004 prove that the future is indoors? For me the future will be when the folk that are strong from an indoor scene, put the time in to do hard new problems outside. Burden of Dreams still sits alone, and I don't think Nalle was doing much competing when he put in the effort over the years on the one. Maybe there will be a more profound split between inside and the pursuit of hard new problems outside, possibly this has taken place allready.Isn't it the point that he hasn't had to do the outdoor apprenticeship first to reach a high level? I'd be interested to see his pyramid. Imagine it's more a pillar...
Even if you go back to the Moffat and Moon era, it would be hard to argue that they and many of their contemporaries had what might be called an 'outdoor apprenticeship'.
Quote from: Andy W on July 29, 2020, 09:05:26 pmEven if you go back to the Moffat and Moon era, it would be hard to argue that they and many of their contemporaries had what might be called an 'outdoor apprenticeship'.I think it would be easy to argue, have you read their Bios? Very much what you would call outdoor climbers from day 1 of their careers. Yes they dabbled in comps but were not a product of a "comp scene", and did some training indoors, but so has just about every climber in the UK from the late 80s onwards.
From an aesthetic point of view I think something would be lost if climbers started creating their own projects on artificial structures. I’m not sure how best to explain my feelings, but it’s something to do with having to fit your movements to the demands of the rock, as opposed to creating the movement that fits you...Watching the video of Kieran on Pilgrimage, it’s striking how beautifully he climbs it. What happens when you couple an excess of power with the fluidity modern indoor bouldering teaches. A striking contrast to the snooze fest that is Barrows cheating his way across it. It’s hard to argue that the best climbers won’t train that way in future. Perhaps for the rich development of the outdoor sport they’ll need an outdoor scout. Someone who plays the same role that Bonjoy does for Ned...
I suppose it depends what we mean by 'outdoor apprenticeship'? In their bio's both Moon and Moffat skip through that phase pretty quickly, at least a lot longer than it took me
Quote from: SA Chris on July 29, 2020, 09:45:28 pmQuote from: Andy W on July 29, 2020, 09:05:26 pmEven if you go back to the Moffat and Moon era, it would be hard to argue that they and many of their contemporaries had what might be called an 'outdoor apprenticeship'.I think it would be easy to argue, have you read their Bios? Very much what you would call outdoor climbers from day 1 of their careers. Yes they dabbled in comps but were not a product of a "comp scene", and did some training indoors, but so has just about every climber in the UK from the late 80s onwards. I suppose it depends what we mean by 'outdoor apprenticeship'? In their bio's both Moon and Moffat skip through that phase pretty quickly, at least a lot longer than it took me
Quote from: Andy W on July 30, 2020, 07:36:23 amQuote from: SA Chris on July 29, 2020, 09:45:28 pmQuote from: Andy W on July 29, 2020, 09:05:26 pmEven if you go back to the Moffat and Moon era, it would be hard to argue that they and many of their contemporaries had what might be called an 'outdoor apprenticeship'.I think it would be easy to argue, have you read their Bios? Very much what you would call outdoor climbers from day 1 of their careers. Yes they dabbled in comps but were not a product of a "comp scene", and did some training indoors, but so has just about every climber in the UK from the late 80s onwards. I suppose it depends what we mean by 'outdoor apprenticeship'? In their bio's both Moon and Moffat skip through that phase pretty quickly, at least a lot longer than it took me Oh come on, I'm not so sure about Moon but Moffat spent years dossing in shacks, sheds and other people's houses so he could climb outside all the time. Only got into comps later. And it took him a lot longer than 6 sessions to do LA!
Quote from: Andy W on July 29, 2020, 09:05:26 pmEven if you go back to the Moffat and Moon era, it would be hard to argue that they and many of their contemporaries had what might be called an 'outdoor apprenticeship'.I know others have said this, but from someone who was around at the time, this is just completely wrong. There was no other way of becoming a climber.
I'm with Stu on the ethics in that its much more fun adapting to Natures crap/random setting than doing our own.
Interestingly with the electrification of transport and energy density of batteries advancing as it is then it's likely that there'll be low loaders in 30years time that could easily transport far more tonnage than is possible today.