I remember looking at these caves around a year after I started climbing and thinking there must be some mega lines going through them. Are they super compact with few features?
Quote from: MischaHY on July 15, 2020, 10:39:30 amI remember looking at these caves around a year after I started climbing and thinking there must be some mega lines going through them. Are they super compact with few features? Pretty much. Most of the obvious lines have fairly major blank looking sections on them through the steepest part of the roof. Its a while since I looked though and it might just need a fresh eye. Part of the problem might be that historically people tried to free aid routes, presumably as they are easier to have a go on/rebolt, but the aid routes there don't follow climbable lines in the most part. There's definitely some lines that will go as Bonjoy said. If anyone wants a hard project there it would be a good idea to try and find an easier thing or two there to bolt up to attract belayers.
I remember looking at these caves around a year after I started climbing
In her own admissions has no interest in outdoor climbing until after her comp career is over.
I've not watched the vid yet but I'd assume Dave is talking about progressing across the disciplines on a variety of rock types. Taking nothing away from what Natalia Grossman achieved (which is incredible), the crossover between indoor climbing and steep Colorado bouldering must be pretty big, compared with the huge variety of tricks and tactics you need to perform similarly well on a wide range of rock types and styles, which is more Dave's scene. I'd guess that's the difference in approaches.Edit: Just watched the video and think my point stands!
Quote from: gme on July 24, 2020, 08:51:44 amIn her own admissions has no interest in outdoor climbing until after her comp career is over.https://www.instagram.com/p/BEUPqI4zXWM/Just clicking through here IG posts, no interest? Lots of other pics of her climbing outside over the years.
There are routes in the slate quarries where indoor training won't be a lot of help. Stuff considerably harder than what currently exists there. To climb these, you'll need hundreds of hours on rock.
Remember that grades are subjective.
but comps have to be set for the all-rounder, whereas hard outdoor climbing is often apologetically specialised. Think massive lank etc..
If we all became woodlice, the routes that were hard and easy would change
Quote from: Franco on July 25, 2020, 08:52:18 ambut comps have to be set for the all-rounder, whereas hard outdoor climbing is often apologetically specialised. Think massive lank etc..I don't know if that's true. Some high profile rock climbers who also do comps (maybe magnus mitdbo?) publically complained about how comps were now way too much about parlour style problems, and didn't represent rock climbing at all. He claimed there needed to be more basic pulling on crimps.Surely if comps were set for the all rounder, the likes of Caldwell would do well. And I suspect he definitely wouldn't. Or do you mean an all rounder on indoor problems?
Quote from: Franco on July 25, 2020, 08:52:18 am If we all became woodlice, the routes that were hard and easy would change Couldn’t agree more.
Franco your comments sound along the lines of the Americans saying ondra would get his arse kicked on dawn wall or the old “what’s he done on grit” adage. The hardest routes will be down to strength power and potentially dynamism technique. And if the future of British climbing is down to weird stuff on slate we are more fucked than I thought.