One hard-to-predict aspect is how many people compete who have already qualified, since this affects the scoring too - so Ondra might compete, and by competing mean that Will does/doesn't qualify if the maths works out right vs other competitors who can still get a place
Slightly off topic, did Dave Macleod ever do any comps?
I arrived in Sheffield back in '96. By then, all Dawes' famous hard routes were 10 or 12 years old. To an 18-year old, that felt like ancient history and I couldn't believe how few repeats there'd been and next to no style improvements. I can't really fathom how the top youths today view routes like Liquid Ambar and Hubble which are now 30 years old. For me, that would have been '66, the year Flying Buttress Direct was finally freed. How motivated would you be to go out and get worked by something that old when down the wall you're a hot new thing at the cutting edge? Youths will either engage with the outdoors or drop out. I don't see any 'future' for the sport indoors because what the sport has always been about is tracing acts of history across the actual, physical landscape. The piece of rock becomes associated with the creator and stands as a testpiece across time. That's a huge difference with most sports - a peak performance in climbing is also a creative act of enduring public sculpture. That can't happen indoors so it will be a different, more conventional sport where a winner is chip-paper tomorrow and a loser the week after. There may be the odd memorable moment but I can't see much of that making it into the history books. Those will continue to be written outdoors, where there is no lack of inspiring new climbs being drawn on an everlasting canvas we can all go and visit.
That's a huge difference with most sports - a peak performance in climbing is also a creative act of enduring public sculpture. That can't happen indoors so it will be a different, more conventional sport where a winner is chip-paper tomorrow and a loser the week after.
Worth noting that Kieren Forrest didn't get worked going outdoors. He cruised a route that had totally shutdown Caff, Oli G, and took Robins endless sessions including one minus undies to save weight. I think that's the new benchmark - can you cruise routes that older wads have to shed their keks for.
I could see your point of view for most of it, but I think you went a bit off track here. Every sport has legendary figures from the past that endure through the ages, none of whom became ‘chip paper’ when they lost their peak performance.
Quote from: petejh on July 10, 2020, 04:12:36 pmWorth noting that Kieren Forrest didn't get worked going outdoors. He cruised a route that had totally shutdown Caff, Oli G, and took Robins endless sessions including one minus undies to save weight. I think that's the new benchmark - can you cruise routes that older wads have to shed their keks for. Where does this one-upmanship end? Are the wads of the future going to rock up to LPT, do a few laps on LA in a down expedition suit and a pair of ankle weights then head home for another fingerboard session?
Just do it in greasy connies.While we're on the topic of LPT, indoor wads, and progressing standards. There's a fully bolted new proj bang in the middle of LPT that will likely be 9a+ or harder. What could possibly (or to us, should) be more enticing to a young wad than to make the sort of history JB's talking about? Coming third indoors?
Quote from: teestub on July 10, 2020, 03:32:52 pmI could see your point of view for most of it, but I think you went a bit off track here. Every sport has legendary figures from the past that endure through the ages, none of whom became ‘chip paper’ when they lost their peak performance.That will depend how well the indoor game endures. Legendary figures are created in sports by the stories told about them. Will the indoor game be compelling enough for those stories to be written and to engage and enthral the next generation like the the stories of "hoary old frontiersman" did to us?My bookshelves have a lot of climbing books on them, I'm struggling to find one full of engaging tales* of comp climbing?*Jerry's book does talk about comps but it's not the comps that made Jerry a legendary figure......
I think you're being a little bit provocative for the sake of the debate there. No way would most remember (or particularly care) who came third in the Olympic climbing. Like nobody really cares very much who were the beaten finalists in world cups or euro championships. It just doesn't resonate emotionally unless you're a very special sort of stat-o-tron.
, and took Robins endless sessions including one minus undies to save weight. I think that's the new
That will depend how well the indoor game endures. Legendary figures are created in sports by the stories told about them. Will the indoor game be compelling enough for those stories to be written and to engage and enthral the next generation like the the stories of "hoary old frontiersman" did to us?My bookshelves have a lot of climbing books on them, I'm struggling to find one full of engaging tales* of comp climbing?