Bristol obviously has a concentrated climbing community and the city is part of the SW area as far as the BMC meeting goes and Bristol climbers are often activists in Cornwall. That said I would be livid if I lived in deepest Cornwall and was denied the opportunity to develop hard sport routes on rock that was otherwise undeveloped by Bristol based climbers who have Cheddar and Brean available on their doorstep for hard sport.
Along with the holiday home elected MPs, maybe itís time for Meythrin prp Trelawny...
At the end of the day, votes in meetings don't mean much compared to boots on the ground as there's a big difference between talk and action. These meetings primarily act as a means of hearing different points of view and building a consensus, and will always have questions raised when the result is one you personally disagree with.Should a local view take precedence, or should it be based on how often you've climbed at a crag? What if you're Cornish but have never climbed at CV and never will? Does your opinion count more than a visitor who would climb there often if some (not all) routes were bolted, perhaps? The point about an ex Peak chair might be unfair if it's who I think it is, who was a N.Wales resident for at least a decade. Are they no longer allowed a stake in the area once they move away? No easy answers I suppose...As an aside, the messy chopped bolts at CV were scheduled for tidying up by some locals. I loaned an angle grinder and ab rope for the task, which disappeared into the Cornish aether without the job being done. All rather tedious and a rather hefty boost to my innate cynicism of localism!
That's a pretty heroic offer from Pete, duly wadded..
@AJM - I think previous proposals have hinted at the possibility of subsequent bolting elsewhere. See details here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/guest_editorial_carn_vellan_bolts-3563.Even if the current proposal were limited solely to the roof section at CV, the concerns I have outlined above would remain about the precedent it would set.I donít know Dorset well, but donít think it is a good example of suggesting that ďbolt creepĒ isnít a problem.
Thanks Andy, thatís useful context. Although I grew up in Cornwall, I was living in Manchester in 2011 so didnít take place in the debate last time round.The question of who should decide this is a difficult one. It seems natural to suggest that the views of local climbers should carry the greatest weight - but how ďlocalĒ do you have to be? Isnít it legitimate that others should take an interest?Also, while I understand your frustration, Iím not sure itís fair to characterise this as wanting to preserve Cornwall for holidaymakers. I live, work and climb here all year round, and have genuine concerns about maintaining Cornish sea cliffs free of bolts.At the end of the day, I see the arguments both way, and if the consensus is to rebolt I wonít be down there chopping them.But my vote would be against. I come back to the argument of once CV, where next? Is it really plausible to have an area meeting to decide the issue each time a new crag / sector / route is proposed for bolting? Once it is established that bolting is OK on Cornish sea cliffs, then over time wonít individuals decide that it is justified on routes elsewhere in the county? Is it not simpler (in my view better) to maintain a clear policy of no bolts on Cornish sea cliffs?
For the same reason as Gogarth and Pembroke - because viewed overall they are better kept as trad climbing areas.Letís face it - although there might be the odd line that looked at in isolation would be better (or only possible) if bolted, Cornwall is never going to be a great sports venue. By contrast it is an amazing trad climbing area, with sea cliff adventure routes to rival those anywhere in the country.I think it is worth losing a couple of sports routes to maintain this. This is accepted elsewhere. For example, even though I suspect that there might be the odd line at Pembroke that would be better or only possible if bolted (stuff on the Big Issue wall??), it has been decided to preserve it as a trad climbing area.I suppose in part it maybe comes down to a question of whether or not people find this a convincing argument.Anyway, I need to take the kids out now and am going climbing later, so wonít be checking posts for a while!
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