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Ned Feehally interview now live (Read 4542 times)

Doylo

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#25 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 01:34:11 pm
Wooden domes with ankle weights would be extremely hard. Donít think I could on mine.

tomtom

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#26 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 01:36:07 pm
Wooden domes with ankle weights would be extremely hard. Donít think I could on mine.

#NextLevel 😃

Bradders

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#27 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 03:33:22 pm
Wouldnít using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if youíre already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option 😄

I've found ankle weights make most difference when moving your feet between footholds and when cutting, so kind of irrelevant how big the feet are. Although imagine on slopey feet it'd be a different story!

rginns

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#28 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 03:35:20 pm
What a sound guy, but ankle weights?! Need to give that a go!

There's a thread here discussing the merits of different methods of adding weight on a board:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30436.0.html

Nice one Bradders, thanks.


Wouldnít using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if youíre already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option 😄

I would have thought using smaller crapper footholds wouldn't engage the core as much as pure weight on the ankles. A combination of shit footholds plus ankle weights though... :-\ :strongbench:

spidermonkey09

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#29 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 04:44:18 pm
Watching this now, great job Simon.

As an aside, I think a big reason that Smiling Buttress continues to go under the radar a bit is that the video seems to have gone missing; anyone able to find it?

JJP

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#30 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 06:27:31 pm
Ye really enjoyed that thanks to those involved.

I also couldn`t find smiling buttress video - link to BMC site doesn't seem to work anymore.

As a side note here is a link to a recent (year ago) Tyler Landman interview that is a good listen:

https://intheflownutrition.com/blog/2019/6/19/ep-7-tyler-landman 

tomtom

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#31 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 07:07:14 pm
@rginns smaller feet certainly work my core to a greater extent - you have to fight so much more to keep the feet on before, during and after making a move.

teestub

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#32 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 07:08:57 pm
I think Pritch filmed that amazing Ty footage, although not 100%

JackPal

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#33 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 07:10:34 pm
Great job Simon. Varian next.  ;)


I took all of that with a great fistful of salt, when heís talking about having weak fingers thatís compared to Megos, Aidan and Varian. Although Iím sure 12 weeks in a Lattice plan would have him up to Font 9A+

Yeah me too, and I bet his fingers are damn good all round, different grip types, fingers spit up etc. Another pinch for the questioning why people aren't trying Smiling buttress. If it's proving hard for him that kinda answers his own question.

shark

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#34 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 07:20:47 pm
Great job Simon.

Phew - are we off the hook now?

fiveknuckle21

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#35 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 08:33:24 pm
Thanks for that Shark. Top notch.

petejh

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#36 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 08:57:28 pm
Just watched it, nice one Simon really good. Comes across as a sound guy.

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#37 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 12, 2020, 01:02:25 am
I think it's interesting that as someone who's similar sized to Ned, my fingers are relatively weak in terms of % body weight to all the guys i climb with, but in terms of absolute strength they're really not too bad.  I'd guess he's kind of in the same boat.  If i can stand or use my feet, then I can climb multiple grades harder than if I have to jump or cut feet. 

Doylo

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#38 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 12, 2020, 08:59:06 am
Heís done crimpy 8bs in a few goes so can probably put the violin away for now .  :lol: :boohoo:

Pantontino

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#39 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 12:15:01 am
Nice one Shark, loved that.

Interesting to note that the same hand-me-down project scenes occur in the Peak as they do in my neck of the woods.

RobK

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#40 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 09:32:24 am
That was great, thanks!

I've been stretching every day since watching it. A solid 3 days in now but it would appear I'm still not a heel hook maestro, can't quite work out where I'm going wrong.

yetix

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#41 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 10:23:19 am
Nice interview Shark. Be good to see these done on a slightly regular fashion!

A few that would be good imo:

Dan Varian - hero. Nothing more needs saying, plenty needs asking.

Mickey Page - Only Brit to bouldered 8C and led 9a sport? (assuming downgrades on Dave Macs previously ticked 8C boulders are now 8b+?)

Jack Pal - Started climbing at 27, climbed first 8a by 29 (first year going outdoors?) , 8b+ by 30(?) and 150ish 8s in 8 years climbing.

Dave Mason - Britain's best travelled boulderer? 500+ 8s done I think?

Dan Turner - King of a Seige? and an impressive logbook as a result!

Bradders

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#42 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 11:28:25 am
Nice interview Shark. Be good to see these done on a slightly regular fashion!

A few that would be good imo:

Dan Varian - hero. Nothing more needs saying, plenty needs asking.

Mickey Page - Only Brit to bouldered 8C and led 9a sport? (assuming downgrades on Dave Macs previously ticked 8C boulders are now 8b+?)

Jack Pal - Started climbing at 27, climbed first 8a by 29 (first year going outdoors?) , 8b+ by 30(?) and 150ish 8s in 8 years climbing.

Dave Mason - Britain's best travelled boulderer? 500+ 8s done I think?

Dan Turner - King of a Seige? and an impressive logbook as a result!

Seconded!

Although Will Bosi has also done 8C and 9AB right? Practice of the Wild.

Micky is also "only" down at 8B+ on Remus' list.

yetix

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#43 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 11:34:46 am
Nice interview Shark. Be good to see these done on a slightly regular fashion!

A few that would be good imo:

Dan Varian - hero. Nothing more needs saying, plenty needs asking.

Mickey Page - Only Brit to bouldered 8C and led 9a sport? (assuming downgrades on Dave Macs previously ticked 8C boulders are now 8b+?)

Jack Pal - Started climbing at 27, climbed first 8a by 29 (first year going outdoors?) , 8b+ by 30(?) and 150ish 8s in 8 years climbing.

Dave Mason - Britain's best travelled boulderer? 500+ 8s done I think?

Dan Turner - King of a Seige? and an impressive logbook as a result!

Seconded!

Although Will Bosi has also done 8C and 9AB right? Practice of the Wild.

Micky is also "only" down at 8B+ on Remus' list.

I thought practice the wild was 8b+ now? There's a few more recent ascents on hard climbs stating its 8B+ so I assumed that. Though possibly the same for Mickey having looked at from where the dirt grows left finish.

I'll change my mickey one to, only Brit to have done 8B+ in Font, Swiss, and Rockland and lead 9A then as I'm pretty sure that's true.

 

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