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Ned Feehally interview now live (Read 4546 times)

shark

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Ned Feehally interview now live
June 09, 2020, 09:36:29 pm
Ned Feehally is one of the UK's top boulderers and the only Brit to flash 8B+ (Trust Issues in Rocklands). Although he doesn't compete any more he was British Champion three times and made a World Cup final. 

Whilst at university in Sheffield he met and climbed with Dan Varian (Carlisle Slapper on here) and together they took UK ground up highballing to new heights (sorry) as featured on Life on Hold (free to view).

Together they designed the Beastmaker fingerboard which 10 years on is still the world standard and Beastmaker, the company, is still going strong making a range of holds, boards and running BIFF. Both are still putting up cutting edge new problems around the country.

Just before lockdown Ned put up "The Boss" at Yarncliffe named in tribute to John Allen. It was publicised by Ned in typical low key fashion on instagram several weeks after the ascent.
 
“The Boss” is likely to be the hardest problem on gritstone so eyebrows were raised at the proferred 8B+ grade and reignited discussion as to whether our top problems were under-graded in comparison to the rest of the world.

I got in touch with Ned and he agreed to be interviewed. Questions were gathered from UKB members here as well as off line. 

Whilst I think I covered most of the ground directly or indirectly in the interview Ned is also happy to answer any further questions….

« Last Edit: June 09, 2020, 10:12:09 pm by shark »

Fiend

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#1 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 09, 2020, 10:08:39 pm
Nice one Shark. 75 mins of pure chat, that should be pretty comprehensive!

Duma

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#2 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 09, 2020, 10:24:37 pm
Looking fwd to this!

Doylo

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#3 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 09:01:52 am
Class that Shark. Nice one. Glad to see he bums ankle weights on the board 👌🏿.

remus

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#4 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 09:26:22 am
That was ace, cheers for putting the time in shark, and thanks Ned for being a willing subject.

tomtom

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#5 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 09:40:08 am
The wall in your back yard is looking nice still Shark :)

shark

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#6 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 10:50:40 am
Thanks Remus and Doylo,

Also want to credit my son Tom for sorting out the recording set up and editing which turned out to be not straightforward

T_B

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#7 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 10:53:54 am
So in summary I need to stretch loads and do crimped deadhanging 5 days a week.

Great interview - thanks. It was interesting what he said about being happy to TR Smiling wall clean. I nearly suggested pre interview whether he’d be interested in simply TRing some of the LGPs eg Wizard Ridge? Like Jerry TRed Slingshot and left it at that .

JohnM

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#8 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 10:55:52 am
Great interview Shark. Nice work by yourself and Tom. It is good to hear about top level performers who may not be in the mainstream media all the time. I am almost considering stretching after watching that  :-\

gme

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#9 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 11:23:26 am
Nice one shark.

Nice breath of fresh air to hear he just goes on his board, hangs off crimps and does loads of stretching rather than the over complicated, over analytical training that seems popular now.

JohnM

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#10 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 11:41:05 am
Yeah it sounds more like consistency over years has been one of the main factors.

Rob F

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#11 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 11:49:38 am
Well done to all involved. Everyone send him a project!!!

Errm, I nipped into the kitchen about 3/4 of the way through for an ice cream and might have missed it. What did he say about the Ben's Roof : Malham thing???

Duma

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#12 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 11:53:26 am
Really enjoyed that, thanks shark

Fatboy

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#13 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 12:05:23 pm
Nice one, thanks Shark and Ned!!  :dance1:

Bradders

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#14 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 01:53:00 pm
Great stuff, thanks guys. Fingerboard 5x per week!! Disappointed you didn't ask him to join Power Club Shark  :chair: ;D

iain

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#15 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 04:11:51 pm
That was great.

Really enjoyed this and the Neil Carson one.

Shauna?

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#16 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 04:21:11 pm
Great interview but not sure about googling tools used by buff men in gyms.

remus

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#17 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 07:47:15 pm
Nice breath of fresh air to hear he just goes on his board, hangs off crimps and does loads of stretching rather than the over complicated, over analytical training that seems popular now.

On the other hand, he also mentioned his finger strength is pretty much capped at ~+2kg and hasnt really improved in ages , and he has to compensate for having (relatively) weak fingers by working on other areas :worms:

teestub

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#18 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 09:20:50 pm

On the other hand, he also mentioned his finger strength is pretty much capped at ~+2kg and hasnt really improved in ages , and he has to compensate for having (relatively) weak fingers by working on other areas :worms:

I took all of that with a great fistful of salt, when he’s talking about having weak fingers that’s compared to Megos, Aidan and Varian. Although I’m sure 12 weeks in a Lattice plan would have him up to Font 9A+

gme

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#19 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 10, 2020, 10:19:57 pm
Nice breath of fresh air to hear he just goes on his board, hangs off crimps and does loads of stretching rather than the over complicated, over analytical training that seems popular now.

On the other hand, he also mentioned his finger strength is pretty much capped at ~+2kg and hasnt really improved in ages , and he has to compensate for having (relatively) weak fingers by working on other areas :worms:
Plus 2K on the bm2k slot would be well down the list I think. 100s of people stronger than that most of whom can only dream of doing 8B+.
Guess you would class him as an outlier.

rginns

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#20 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 09:45:59 am
Really enjoyed that Shark, thanks for going to the trouble. 
What a sound guy, but ankle weights?! Need to give that a go!

Bradders

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#21 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 11:00:03 am
What a sound guy, but ankle weights?! Need to give that a go!

There's a thread here discussing the merits of different methods of adding weight on a board:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30436.0.html

tomtom

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#22 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 01:01:22 pm
Wouldn’t using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if you’re already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option 😄

teestub

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#23 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 01:22:51 pm
In my experience tiny footholds become more shoe dependent than anything else and you just end up trashing a small area of your shoe. Think Ned’s board already has pretty terrible slopey feet!

Doylo

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#24 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 01:31:51 pm
Wouldn’t using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if you’re already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option 😄

They’re not mutually exclusive. Good to do a bit of everything.

Doylo

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#25 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 01:34:11 pm
Wooden domes with ankle weights would be extremely hard. Don’t think I could on mine.

tomtom

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#26 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 01:36:07 pm
Wooden domes with ankle weights would be extremely hard. Don’t think I could on mine.

#NextLevel 😃

Bradders

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#27 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 03:33:22 pm
Wouldn’t using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if you’re already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option 😄

I've found ankle weights make most difference when moving your feet between footholds and when cutting, so kind of irrelevant how big the feet are. Although imagine on slopey feet it'd be a different story!

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#28 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 03:35:20 pm
What a sound guy, but ankle weights?! Need to give that a go!

There's a thread here discussing the merits of different methods of adding weight on a board:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30436.0.html

Nice one Bradders, thanks.


Wouldn’t using smaller/shitter footholds have the same effect (and more translatable to rock?).

Though I guess if you’re already using really tiny crap holds then adding ankle weights is an option 😄

I would have thought using smaller crapper footholds wouldn't engage the core as much as pure weight on the ankles. A combination of shit footholds plus ankle weights though... :-\ :strongbench:

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#29 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 04:44:18 pm
Watching this now, great job Simon.

As an aside, I think a big reason that Smiling Buttress continues to go under the radar a bit is that the video seems to have gone missing; anyone able to find it?

JJP

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#30 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 06:27:31 pm
Ye really enjoyed that thanks to those involved.

I also couldn`t find smiling buttress video - link to BMC site doesn't seem to work anymore.

As a side note here is a link to a recent (year ago) Tyler Landman interview that is a good listen:

https://intheflownutrition.com/blog/2019/6/19/ep-7-tyler-landman 

tomtom

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#31 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 07:07:14 pm
@rginns smaller feet certainly work my core to a greater extent - you have to fight so much more to keep the feet on before, during and after making a move.

teestub

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#32 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 07:08:57 pm
I think Pritch filmed that amazing Ty footage, although not 100%

JackPal

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#33 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 07:10:34 pm
Great job Simon. Varian next.  ;)


I took all of that with a great fistful of salt, when he’s talking about having weak fingers that’s compared to Megos, Aidan and Varian. Although I’m sure 12 weeks in a Lattice plan would have him up to Font 9A+

Yeah me too, and I bet his fingers are damn good all round, different grip types, fingers spit up etc. Another pinch for the questioning why people aren't trying Smiling buttress. If it's proving hard for him that kinda answers his own question.

shark

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#34 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 07:20:47 pm
Great job Simon.

Phew - are we off the hook now?

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#35 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 08:33:24 pm
Thanks for that Shark. Top notch.

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#36 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 11, 2020, 08:57:28 pm
Just watched it, nice one Simon really good. Comes across as a sound guy.

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#37 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 12, 2020, 01:02:25 am
I think it's interesting that as someone who's similar sized to Ned, my fingers are relatively weak in terms of % body weight to all the guys i climb with, but in terms of absolute strength they're really not too bad.  I'd guess he's kind of in the same boat.  If i can stand or use my feet, then I can climb multiple grades harder than if I have to jump or cut feet. 

Doylo

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#38 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 12, 2020, 08:59:06 am
He’s done crimpy 8bs in a few goes so can probably put the violin away for now .  :lol: :boohoo:

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#39 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 12:15:01 am
Nice one Shark, loved that.

Interesting to note that the same hand-me-down project scenes occur in the Peak as they do in my neck of the woods.

RobK

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#40 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 09:32:24 am
That was great, thanks!

I've been stretching every day since watching it. A solid 3 days in now but it would appear I'm still not a heel hook maestro, can't quite work out where I'm going wrong.

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#41 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 10:23:19 am
Nice interview Shark. Be good to see these done on a slightly regular fashion!

A few that would be good imo:

Dan Varian - hero. Nothing more needs saying, plenty needs asking.

Mickey Page - Only Brit to bouldered 8C and led 9a sport? (assuming downgrades on Dave Macs previously ticked 8C boulders are now 8b+?)

Jack Pal - Started climbing at 27, climbed first 8a by 29 (first year going outdoors?) , 8b+ by 30(?) and 150ish 8s in 8 years climbing.

Dave Mason - Britain's best travelled boulderer? 500+ 8s done I think?

Dan Turner - King of a Seige? and an impressive logbook as a result!

Bradders

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#42 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 11:28:25 am
Nice interview Shark. Be good to see these done on a slightly regular fashion!

A few that would be good imo:

Dan Varian - hero. Nothing more needs saying, plenty needs asking.

Mickey Page - Only Brit to bouldered 8C and led 9a sport? (assuming downgrades on Dave Macs previously ticked 8C boulders are now 8b+?)

Jack Pal - Started climbing at 27, climbed first 8a by 29 (first year going outdoors?) , 8b+ by 30(?) and 150ish 8s in 8 years climbing.

Dave Mason - Britain's best travelled boulderer? 500+ 8s done I think?

Dan Turner - King of a Seige? and an impressive logbook as a result!

Seconded!

Although Will Bosi has also done 8C and 9AB right? Practice of the Wild.

Micky is also "only" down at 8B+ on Remus' list.

yetix

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#43 Re: Ned Feehally interview now live
June 13, 2020, 11:34:46 am
Nice interview Shark. Be good to see these done on a slightly regular fashion!

A few that would be good imo:

Dan Varian - hero. Nothing more needs saying, plenty needs asking.

Mickey Page - Only Brit to bouldered 8C and led 9a sport? (assuming downgrades on Dave Macs previously ticked 8C boulders are now 8b+?)

Jack Pal - Started climbing at 27, climbed first 8a by 29 (first year going outdoors?) , 8b+ by 30(?) and 150ish 8s in 8 years climbing.

Dave Mason - Britain's best travelled boulderer? 500+ 8s done I think?

Dan Turner - King of a Seige? and an impressive logbook as a result!

Seconded!

Although Will Bosi has also done 8C and 9AB right? Practice of the Wild.

Micky is also "only" down at 8B+ on Remus' list.

I thought practice the wild was 8b+ now? There's a few more recent ascents on hard climbs stating its 8B+ so I assumed that. Though possibly the same for Mickey having looked at from where the dirt grows left finish.

I'll change my mickey one to, only Brit to have done 8B+ in Font, Swiss, and Rockland and lead 9A then as I'm pretty sure that's true.

 

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