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Pulley for Fingerboarding (Read 3067 times)

sdm

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Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 12:56:36 pm
Anyone got any recommendations for a pulley with a decent diameter that won't add much friction when adding assistance for fingerboarding?

I have been using a Petzl Oscillante but it has a small diameter (Ø25mm I think) so it introduces a lot of friction and sticking even when used with a fairly narrow cord so the amount of assistance it provides isn't very consistent.

I've had a look at various shops online but most give very little information on size or efficiency.

Bonus points if there is a cheap but effective option from a DIY store that might be cheaper than a climbing specific product. I don't need it to be rated for falling on, just need it to work smoothly with up to ~30-40kg on each end for endurance and core work.

iain

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#1 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 01:04:44 pm
I got the Petzl Partner, much higher efficiency than the Oscillante and friction is consistant for me. Use it with some chopped end rope and have had ~25kg hanging through it.
I also have use for it outside of training so the cost tradeoff was worth it for me.

No idea about DIY solutions.

Nutty

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#2 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 01:25:04 pm
I've got a Petzl Fixe which is supposed to be the same efficiency as your Oscillante and some friction is definitely noticeable. The Petzl Partner is supposed to be 91% efficiency with a 25mm sheave (as is the micro-traxion if you fancy something that could be put to other uses), the Petzl Rescue 95% with a 38mm sheave and the KONG Extra Roll 96%.

You could try bothering the sales people to find out the specs of something like this as a cheaper option: https://www.life-gear.com/products/tree-force-single-pulley/tf-tu430

remus

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#3 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 01:30:44 pm
I've done a bit of testing on this for Lattice.

These are the best commonly available ones: https://www.petzl.com/GB/en/Professional/Pulleys#/High-efficiency-pulleys

The petzl micro traxion is also a good option, and a bit more useful if you want to put it on your rack https://www.petzl.com/GB/en/Professional/Pulleys/MICRO-TRAXION

remus

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#4 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 01:35:21 pm
Also worth getting yourself some 4mm dyneema cord for maximum efficiency https://www.ropelocker.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=497

Oh, and for full geek points make sure you weigh your weights as they're typically not that accurate (especially if you've got cheapo weights like I do. I've got a 10kg plate that's actually closer to 9.4kg, very flattering!)

spidermonkey09

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#5 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 01:52:35 pm
Also worth getting yourself some 4mm dyneema cord for maximum efficiency https://www.ropelocker.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=497

Oh, and for full geek points make sure you weigh your weights as they're typically not that accurate (especially if you've got cheapo weights like I do. I've got a 10kg plate that's actually closer to 9.4kg, very flattering!)

How do you know your scales are accurate though?!  :worms:

Nutty

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#6 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 02:03:26 pm
Also worth getting yourself some 4mm dyneema cord for maximum efficiency https://www.ropelocker.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=497

Oh, and for full geek points make sure you weigh your weights as they're typically not that accurate (especially if you've got cheapo weights like I do. I've got a 10kg plate that's actually closer to 9.4kg, very flattering!)

How do you know your scales are accurate though?!  :worms:

You mean you don't use a Kibble balance to measure your weights? Calibrating against a platinum-iridium reference kilogram is so 2018.

GazM

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#7 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 02:08:01 pm
On the subject, I was dismayed at how far back my 1 arm scores went when I started using a Revolver crab rather than just having the rope running through a normal crab.

I'd hate to think how shit I'd be with an even more efficient pulley setup.

dunnyg

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#8 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 02:22:21 pm
Rub your pulley around in some silty mud, get your gains right back up there.

I was using the top of a petzl stop for a while, definitely not ideal!

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#9 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 02:29:12 pm
I use an old bicycle hub and some 25mm tubular webbing. cost me nothing other than a bit of DIY time. I can link to some photos if can't picture how it works.

tomtom

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#10 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 02:51:01 pm
Think I’ve got a sash window pulley for a couple of quid from B&Q. It creaks a bit over 15 kg - but seems fine otherwise. Causes <0.5kg of drag (I use Handheld baggage scales pulling down to calibrate).

sdm

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#11 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 03:53:36 pm
Thanks all.

Oh, and for full geek points make sure you weigh your weights as they're typically not that accurate (especially if you've got cheapo weights like I do. I've got a 10kg plate that's actually closer to 9.4kg, very flattering!)

My 20kg plates got left in my parents' garage for a few years and an unknown spillage led to significant rust damage to 2 of them. After removing the worst of the rust, one of them only weighed 19.1kg according to the bathroom scales (which may also be inaccurate). No idea what the plates weighed before the rust.

Dexter

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#12 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 08, 2020, 05:02:21 pm
Also worth getting yourself some 4mm dyneema cord for maximum efficiency https://www.ropelocker.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=497

Oh, and for full geek points make sure you weigh your weights as they're typically not that accurate (especially if you've got cheapo weights like I do. I've got a 10kg plate that's actually closer to 9.4kg, very flattering!)

How do you know your scales are accurate though?!  :worms:

You mean you don't use a Kibble balance to measure your weights? Calibrating against a platinum-iridium reference kilogram is so 2018.

Absolutely, it's Si-28 or nothing

galpinos

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#13 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 09, 2020, 09:08:13 am
Use a Petzl Partner and a Micro Traxion, both of which were purchased for another use.

The Micro Traxion is handy as you can use it to grip the rope once the weights are lifted so you can unclip easily between sets for your rest.

SA Chris

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#14 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 09, 2020, 09:11:48 am
Thanks all.

Oh, and for full geek points make sure you weigh your weights as they're typically not that accurate (especially if you've got cheapo weights like I do. I've got a 10kg plate that's actually closer to 9.4kg, very flattering!)

My 20kg plates got left in my parents' garage for a few years and an unknown spillage led to significant rust damage to 2 of them. After removing the worst of the rust, one of them only weighed 19.1kg according to the bathroom scales (which may also be inaccurate). No idea what the plates weighed before the rust.

That's would need to be a lot of corrosion to lose nearly a kg! Assume other factors at play.

sdm

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#15 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 09, 2020, 10:14:00 am
It did lose a lot, the plate is now a different shape and is noticeably smaller than the other plates. I don't know what got spilled on it but it definitely wasn't water and it took a couple of hours of scrubbing before it was in a good enough condition to bring it inside the house.

It might have started off light but the undamaged ones came in at 20.0kg and 19.9kg.

SA Chris

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#16 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 09, 2020, 10:46:30 am
I'd get it decontaminated!

sdm

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#17 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 22, 2020, 11:05:38 pm
Found a Petzl Partner on offer. It's a huge improvement over the Oscillante. Cheers for the recommendations.

Bradders

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#18 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 23, 2020, 08:59:52 am
Can you link to where it was on offer please?

erm, sam

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#19 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 23, 2020, 09:24:48 am
I was using an Oscillante and on the basis of this thread got a Partner from rock and run. I was somewhat trepidous about what it woudl do to my one armer training. Having done one workout I thought the decreased resistance took a couple of seconds off my max hang duration, eg only provided a tiny bit less help. Though this is within normal session variablilty.  I was using 30-7.5kg counterweight. So er, there you go.

tomtom

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#20 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 23, 2020, 09:42:46 am
Decathlon had a couple of different branded ones in on Friday - including an Elderid one for a tenner. My sash window pulley is still going OK though (£3 from B&Q)... though it squeaks a bit. Adds to the training experience I think :D

sdm

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#21 Re: Pulley for Fingerboarding
June 23, 2020, 10:14:06 am
Can you link to where it was on offer please?

I got it from Barrabes. They were £24 but there was a code that took it down to £16. The code was last weekend only so it might be cheaper elsewhere unless you can find another code.

 

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