[Bonjoy]

Another bunch from recent pre and post lockdown outings. Mostly mine, with a few exceptions. Folks on Insta may have seen pics/vid of some of these already. Apologies for the general lack of names, I have a huge backlog to get done, by all means suggest ideas if you think of any good ones.

Duke’s Seat

* Pass The Duchy 7b+ - On the Tim’s Slap roof. On the right, start matched on the plinth, climb the roof at its widest. It’s a great problem, but is very heightist. The tall will find it overgraded, the short will mostly fail (it looked >7c the way Bransby nearly did it). Which probably means it’ll get downgraded because most ascentionists will be tall. My grade is right though for the few people of perfectly average height! Which is just a longwinded way of saying ‘screw you’ well in advance of Will Hunt visiting Duke’s seat.

On The Lefthand Side 7c – Left of Pass the Duchy (obvs). Start in the break on the main plinth block (other plinth blocks are not used), gain the rh sloper edge on TS with lh and make a desperate move to the top, via a mono. Probably hard at the grade. FA Ned Feehally

Unimpeachable 7b – A sit start to Motion Of Confidence, coming in from near the right arete.

<no name yet> 7b – Sit start fridge hug right of Get Off Your Horse with a tricky topout. FA Ned Feehally

<no name yet> 7a+ - Prow next to dead tree down and left of Motion Of Confidence. Doesn’t use the tree, walls either side, or lowest block/shelf (smaller one at base of crack is used). FA Ben Bransby

Horse Milk 6b – Sit start as for Drink Your Milk then climb the left arete of the block.

Fun While It Lasts 6b – Crimpy wall from sitting on the Main Crag Buttress just right of Poacher’s Trap

* Life’s A Beech Sit Start 7b – Great moves up to and off a lovely pinch. Start in the centre of the block. The claimed LH sitter LAB seems unfeasible to me at the given grade.

La Vie est un Hêtre 6b – Climb the centre of the LAB block from a French start off the undercut.

Cocking Tor

Wickerpedia 6c – Sit start and climb the wall right of Wicker Man. Holds on the arete are not used.

Bradley Tor
Previously developed but Dan Warren but never documented. I cleaned some of it up over winter, and since then others have cleaned up and added lots more (details to follow in a topo at some point).
There have been problems with access in the past and it’s vital that if anyone visits now they approach from below via the diagonal footpath that runs eastward down the hill from the normal Bradley parking. Once at the bottom of the woods track along the wood edge (200m or so), then head up to the left end of the crag via a (hard to locate from below) water gully/path.

<no name yet> 4+ - Left arete of the central slab.

* <no name yet> 6b – Obvious thin crack line up slab

<no name yet> 6c - Right side of the same slab

<no name yet> 6a+ – At the righthand end of the main area. Traverse the lip of a low block left to rockover at the apex

**<no name yet> 7b+ - The triangular roofy prow on the left side of the crag is a great prob, a bit like a cross between Goose Creature and The Golden Egg

* <no name yet> 7a – 60m or so right of the main area, just above a vague abandoned track is a biggish prowy arete. Climb this on its left side. Possibly soft at this grade, I was a bit scared climbing it alone without a spot!

Bradley Quarry & Boulders

* Il Fait Beau 7a+ - I’ve removed a dead tree that was leaning on the Il Pleut roof and added a couple of things based around the left side of it. This one sit starts on the right and works leftward, to topout on the far left side.

Il Fait Chaud 7a – Sit start on low slot and lip slot left of Il Pleut. Climb out to topout up the left arete (right of the finish of IFB).

* Lost in Munich 6c(6b from stand) – In the second bay of the quarry itself. From sitting climb the high wall via a cool lightning feature. The top is steady on deep slots, but there is a stake on top if you want to clean it or check out on a rope first.

Gardoms Edge

Shelf Isolation 6b – On the crag between Blacksmith’s and Oread buttress is a wall of overlaps. Climb this right of centre, from sitting, mantling a sloping shelf along the way.

<no name yet> 6c – Right of Heartland, climb the bulge from sitting.

* Shelfless Act 7a – Eliminate but good. As per Shelf Isolation but avoiding the shelf.

Classic Dom 5 – Left arete of the overlapped wall

China Sneezed 6b+ – Vert wall right of Shelf Isolation. Sit start on the right arete and go left then up to finish on the left via hanging flake/groove

<no name yet> 6a – Wall as far as the break between Nymph Arete and Oread

Yarncliffe edge

Ant Agony 5 – On the far right end of the crag, beyond any recorded routes and somewhat downhill from the main edge level is a nice rounded bulge feature. Climb the groove on the left from sitting.

Anty Gravity 6c – The bulge from sitting left of centre climbed direct into vague arete.

* All Ants on Deck 6c+ - The bulge climbed right of centre from sitting

Ant Another Thing 6b – far right of the bulge from sitting.

Lawrencefield

<no name yet> 6b – Not far right (30m?) of the Anthill Traverse is a highish, slightly overhanging on its front (right side). Climb this from sitting.


These last few probs are things I did last year or the year before but forgot to add to my last update.

Cucklet Church

A small limestone oddity up the top lefthand side of the Cucklet delf valley. Best approached from the carpark in Eyam. It’s a series of interconnected arches. All probs are in the biggest most downhill arch.


<no name yet> 6b – A high jug on the left side of the face can be reach via at least three semi independant sequences, all around 6b/+. The best and hardest involves crossing onto a gorgeous slopey pinch.

<no name yet> 6b – Middle line via pocket trending right at the top

Moomen Rider 5+ - Right again, past the cave/chimney. Sit start and trend up and right then up shoulder to jugs. FA Spike Fullwood


Blackwell Dale – Midsummers Buttress

This is the buttress left of Griff’s. I did these bits on it before getting distracted by Lees Bottom. It was subsequently cleaned and fully developed by Rachel Briggs (T_B will know I’m sure). I’m not sure if there’s a topo for it anywhere, it’s not on UKC log. Again the details are sketchy on this, I need to go back and get pic and clearer details. These are all on the rock left of the steepest section.

*<no name yet> 6a+ - Far left prob

* <no name yet> 7b -Pockets prob lefthand

<no name yet> 7b - Pockets prob righthand

<no name yet> 6b+ -Right of pocket probs

[bolehillbilly]

Top effort again Jon.
As Jon said about Brad Tor development there's around 40 problems there now, good circuit on top quality rock. A few folk have pitched in on cleaning and doing new stuff after Jon's initial hard work. I'm trying to gather the info for a topo and get another visit for some photos once the rain stops.

[Fiend]

Top effort on the Duchy disclaimer. Hasn't something been missed off Yarncliffe tho?

BTW is this anything at Bradley Edge:



Left end of a mini crag, after a higher bit and an obvious nice wall with a block that needed carjacking out the way.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers.
You mean Ned's prob? That's been reported already.
That's the prow at Bradley Tor. Did some digging around today and established that Dan Warren climbed this around 2010. He also thought 7b+ and has given it the name Reborn. Where's the still from? Is that Dan W on it? Looks like he used a very different sequence to me (my sequence is on insta).
I moved the obvious block (obviously). I used a chain winch.

[Fiend]

Even so Neds should be part of the list, for any 7B climbers wanting to push things a bit

That's Oggers on the roof problem, me spotting. This was in....2008 I think? There was a minor dab on the pad so maybe Ogs didn't want to claim it. I think the name was going to be Foie Gras as a riposte to all your gooseness. I did an easier curving prow between this and the blocked/unblocked slab at about V3 I think?

I'm not on insta, do you have a direct link?

[Bonjoy]

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAL5NuOj44A/?igshid=zofm4b54vqhu
Nice one. I think the hold Dan has with his left hand ripped off on Dan W prior to his ascent in 2010. There is an old scar and Dan mentioned taking a nasty fall. The prob is more slopey and techy without it.
There is already a Foie Gras on the Goose Creature roof  .
Did you have a name for the V3 arete, as your will have been the FA?
Would love to see the vid that's a still from if you fancy Whattsapping it to me.

[Fiend]

Cheers have FB messaged you to get Whatsapp details.

I definitely had a name for the arete....it might have been more goose mockery. I'll try to remember.

I bought a big brush in B and Q Manchester whilst helping a manc friend move house on the previous day and I STILL have that as my sloper-blob indoor brush #coolstorybro

[Rachel Rock Tots]

If anyone wants the topo for Midsummers (it’s all dry at the moment), let me know. Wasn’t sure I should make it available online, because of the access, but if others think I should, then I could.

[Rachel Rock Tots]

If anyone wants the topo for Midsummers (it’s all dry at the moment), let me know. Wasn’t sure I should make it available online, because of the access, but if others think I should, then I could.
Please email rachelhassall@hotmail.com

[spidermonkey09]

Came across Bradley Tor today and thought it looked great. Did a topo ever get put together?

[old cheese]

Bonehillbilly was working on a topo for Bradley Edge. Last one I saw was a line on a piece of A4 which had dots on it. I think it has progressed since. Jonboy may have some info too