EDIT: <The RAD has now been updated, and after discussions with Henry, who's familiar with the route in via Oxlow Rake, this has been recommended. It has the benefits of bypassing the landowner's farm, gaining CROW wholly via public footpaths, not requiring any wall hopping, and being only fractionally longer than the previous approach. >
The current situation with regards to the landowner remains unchanged - he is against people climbing at the crag. As it's CROW land his principal objection is the crossing of walls and fences.
Yesterday I heard second hand (so only know the sketchiest of details)that he'd shown some climbers off whilst brandishing a shotgun and stated that the crag is 'closed'!
This coincides with discussions I've had with the BMC about stopping the voluntary ban, given that the issue seems to have dropped off the national parks radar, nothing has changed, and we have a legal right to be there.
I'm going to assist in drafting something up for the RAD detailing the options for approach, but for now I think these are the main points to take away.
- The landowner still objects to climbers at the crag
- The crag is on CROW land so we have a right to be there
- The BMC no longer supports a voluntary ban
- The landowner appears to be a gnarly character and has behaved in a threatening way to climber. Proceed with due caution
- DO NOT APPROACH FROM PEAK FOREST VIA THE NORMAL APPROACH. Because: A - you may meet the landowner. B - crossing walls and fences is to be avoided and is probably illegal. C - while the current pandemic is a live issue it's best to avoid parking in quiet villages and approaching past dwellings, where other options exist
- If you wish to visit the crag please come in either from the NW via footpaths from the entrance to Eldon Quarry on the Castleton to Sparrow Pit road; or through Oxlow Rake east of Peak Forest.
I will given more details on the approach options when I've looked into them more. The Eldon approach may or may not require a wall crossing. The Oxlow approach might involve parking in PF, so neither is ideal unfortunately.
The current situation with regards to the landowner remains unchanged - he is against people climbing at the crag. As it's CROW land his principal objection is the crossing of walls and fences.
Yesterday I heard second hand (so only know the sketchiest of details)that he'd shown some climbers off whilst brandishing a shotgun and stated that the crag is 'closed'!
This coincides with discussions I've had with the BMC about stopping the voluntary ban, given that the issue seems to have dropped off the national parks radar, nothing has changed, and we have a legal right to be there.
I'm going to assist in drafting something up for the RAD detailing the options for approach, but for now I think these are the main points to take away.
- The landowner still objects to climbers at the crag
- The crag is on CROW land so we have a right to be there
- The BMC no longer supports a voluntary ban
- The landowner appears to be a gnarly character and has behaved in a threatening way to climber. Proceed with due caution
- DO NOT APPROACH FROM PEAK FOREST VIA THE NORMAL APPROACH. Because: A - you may meet the landowner. B - crossing walls and fences is to be avoided and is probably illegal. C - while the current pandemic is a live issue it's best to avoid parking in quiet villages and approaching past dwellings, where other options exist
- If you wish to visit the crag please come in either from the NW via footpaths from the entrance to Eldon Quarry on the Castleton to Sparrow Pit road; or through Oxlow Rake east of Peak Forest.
I will given more details on the approach options when I've looked into them more. The Eldon approach may or may not require a wall crossing. The Oxlow approach might involve parking in PF, so neither is ideal unfortunately.