Considering buying some beastmaker micros when they are back in stock. Have a number of potential projects with very small holds, maybe be better specificity. In meantime will aim to get weight assistance down on one arm hangs.
TT - when you say one arm day, I assume you're talking about pull ups, not hangs?Couple of questions as I seem to really struggle with one armed stuff. How are you warming up (for hangs or pulls)?IIRC you use a band for assistance? How does this work on pulls, surely you're getting much less by the end of the pull (or more at the start)?
Thanks TT. So what size edge are you on? You mention 20mm on Mon but not the other days, assume its bigger?
MoF - if I read yr post right you're doing one armed repeaters on the middle edge (on a bm2000? In which case it's 24mm ish) with 15kg assistance, but your best 10s one arm hang is 12.5kg assistance? That can't be right, is that on a different edge?
Quote from: monkoffunk on May 10, 2020, 06:54:11 pmConsidering buying some beastmaker micros when they are back in stock. Have a number of potential projects with very small holds, maybe be better specificity. In meantime will aim to get weight assistance down on one arm hangs.You’re Dorset somewhere, right? I don’t know quite how small you want, but you could probably have my 6mms because I’m too weak (and borrow my 10mms to tide you over if it’s helpful - I have the 8mm and a 15mm so could do without them for a bit) if you’re anywhere in striking distance of poole.....
Ah, thanks very much for the offer, but I managed to source some in the end yesterday! I’ll be starting with the 10mms for a bit I reckon, 6mm will definitely be too small.
Quote from: monkoffunk on May 11, 2020, 10:07:05 amAh, thanks very much for the offer, but I managed to source some in the end yesterday! I’ll be starting with the 10mms for a bit I reckon, 6mm will definitely be too small.No probs!I've not done much with the 10s but from a brief play they didn't feel that much worse than the bottom edges on a bm2k - smaller but with a more clearly defined edge. But I've not exactly rigorously tested my comparative weight limits on each.The 8s I can do with a bit of weight but at half pad they aren't enormously comfortable. For me, good for adding some specificity on small holds but I'm not sure I'd want them to be my primary training tools.The 6s are a bit pie in the sky for me, but then I strongly suspect you're stronger than I am!
I'm considering having a dabble on the fingerboard that but must be careful to leave the pulleys alone and rest them.This is a stupid question, but if I put my fingers in the 33mm slot as far as they will go, is that still achieving an open handed grip? I've always thought of open hand as being a slight angle at the DIP joint to achieve a drag effect. So by definition if you're on slots as opposed to slopers, you'd only be able to drag them with your tips while open handing?Is this nonsense? Maybe safer to just stick to the 35 degree slopers while resting pulleys? The workout will still have an effect on the shoulders and arms which I feel is the weak link in the chain for me.
project deadline on Tuesday and then teaching gf to belay.