[Murph]

6am sessions G style for me.

Plus what Barrows said. And jwi. And OMM.

[scragrock]

Och I will do pretty much do what I always do when eventually we are released into the wilds.
I will be alone(cause I’m a Cunt)sitting beneath the start holds of a unclimbed semi clean/semi damp Highland boulder miles from the nearest Road/Person/Contagion in a vain attempt at conquering my latest project , most likely with little or no success.

[shark]

Och I will do pretty much do what I always do when eventually we are released into the wilds.
I will be alone(cause I’m a Cunt)sitting beneath the start holds of a unclimbed semi clean/semi damp Highland boulder miles from the nearest Road/Person/Contagion in a vain attempt at conquering my latest project , most likely with little or no success.

Dave says hi

[moose]

I'll be trying to find places with little chance of passers-by (which unfortunately might rule-out the obvious option of Ilkley - which is inside walking distance), within, say, a 20 minute drive (Mr Unknownstones, you will have PMs!).

More of a Powerclub musing perhaps, but I am very curious about how any climbing this year will go.  So far, I have spent 6 weeks doing the following every week: 3x bodyweight exercise sessions (a progressive programme of calisthenics and pull-ups lasting 1.5 hours), 2x Beastmaker 2000 app sessions (currently each session near 1.5 hours - 6c routine to warm-up, then 2x 7c, albeit cheating on the sloper reps), and a 40 minute TRX session. Plus on weekends, I do long walks on the moors (usually 3 hours). 

The result is hopefully that my core and upper body are stronger than ever, and my fingers are still in decent condition (in "normal" times I just used to climb during the weekend and do one fingerboard session midweek). So, I have hope that this spell of non-climbing has addressed some weaknesses and, once I get used to moving on rock again, I'll be better for it.

But I do find the prospect of being a better climber for not climbing a bit depressing!  My view was that it was best to climb as much as possible.  It might not be the most "efficient" regimen but the enjoyment makes up for it and gives the best long term results.  Obtaining personal proof that sacrificing climbing for training is for the best seems a mixed blessing.  If my new-found steel tendons and body-tension-of-an-ironing-board lead to a decent autumn and winter ticklist, how will that affect my relationship with climbing?  Will I feel bound to sacrifice time on rock for more dedicated training?  Still, all pretty moot at the moment......

[petejh]

- stay within your local county, at most crossing one county boundary.

I presume this was included just to annoy the Sheffield residents?

Because of the dearth of decent climbing between the two counties of Yorkshire and Derbyshire? Yeah poor lambs.

[TobyD]

I'd expect people to gracefully move on if I'm already at a particular sector / boulder.

You'd hope so. But the the last time I went bouldering a week or so before the locked I was just warming up and two others turned up, I asked if they'd mind going to another sector for a bit and coming back as I wouldn't be long, and their response was 'no we've come to climb here' and ridiculed my request to maintain a decent distance, so I had to pack up and go.
To be honest it had totally put me off climbing anyway. Left feeling pretty despondent about the whole experience.
Hopefully there aren't too many similarly selfish, ignorant people out there.

[danm]

My plan is to don a fascist paramilitary uniform* and patrol various crags with my laser measuring device. As soon as somebody breaks the 2m distancing rule I'll shout out "dab" using my Dalek voice vocoder and then in my normal voice say "back around mate".

[SA Chris]

Hopefully there aren't too many similarly selfish, ignorant people out there.

Aye, right.

[slab_happy]

Also use I’ll use more liquid chalk - that from what I can deduce is basically hand sanitiser (alcohol based) with some Sticky resin and chalk Mixed into it...

The question is whether the alcohol percentage is high enough -- needs to be over 60% to work as hand sanitizer, and liquid chalk tends to contain thickeners and other stuff as well as chalk.

I've been trying and failing to find info on the alcohol percentage of any brands (apart from the low-alcohol or alcohol-free ones!). You'd think an enterprising company would jump on it.

[tomtom]

This could be calculated  as ABV (alcohol by volume) with A simple expt non? Pour some into a measure - let the alcohol evaporate and see what volume of ‘residue’ is left?

Might try with an old calpol syringe later :D

[Oldmanmatt]

My plan is to don a fascist paramilitary uniform* and patrol various crags with my laser measuring device. As soon as somebody breaks the 2m distancing rule I'll shout out "dab" using my Dalek voice vocoder and then in my normal voice say "back around mate".

How are you going to get hold of a Torbay traffic warden’s get up from that end of the country?

[Oldmanmatt]

This could be calculated  as ABV (alcohol by volume) with A simple expt non? Pour some into a measure - let the alcohol evaporate and see what volume of ‘residue’ is left?

Might try with an old calpol syringe later :D

By weight, possibly.
Surely the chalk sediment/structure will have significant vesicles and thus an inflated volume?

I’ll wait until your paper has been peer reviewed TT.

[abarro81]

I'd expect people to gracefully move on if I'm already at a particular sector / boulder.

You'd hope so. But the the last time I went bouldering a week or so before the locked I was just warming up and two others turned up, I asked if they'd mind going to another sector for a bit and coming back as I wouldn't be long, and their response was 'no we've come to climb here' and ridiculed my request to maintain a decent distance, so I had to pack up and go.
To be honest it had totally put me off climbing anyway. Left feeling pretty despondent about the whole experience.
Hopefully there aren't too many similarly selfish, ignorant people out there.

I imagine people will be dicks like this occasionally. I fully intend on taking a photo and internet shaming them unless anyone can convince me not to..

[tomtom]

This could be calculated  as ABV (alcohol by volume) with A simple expt non? Pour some into a measure - let the alcohol evaporate and see what volume of ‘residue’ is left?

Might try with an old calpol syringe later :D

By weight, possibly.
Surely the chalk sediment/structure will have significant vesicles and thus an inflated volume?

I’ll wait until your paper has been peer reviewed TT.

Experiment is running.... its taking a while for the alcohol to evaporate (forms quite a good seal)...

It would be better if I did it by weight - but I don't have any dealers scales...

[SA Chris]

6am sessions G style for me.

Not likely to find a passing Spaniard on a bike these days.

[scragrock]

Dave says hi
[/quote]

Which one-
McLeod, Douglas or Wheeler?

[Duma]

I'd expect people to gracefully move on if I'm already at a particular sector / boulder.

You'd hope so. But the the last time I went bouldering a week or so before the locked I was just warming up and two others turned up, I asked if they'd mind going to another sector for a bit and coming back as I wouldn't be long, and their response was 'no we've come to climb here' and ridiculed my request to maintain a decent distance, so I had to pack up and go.
To be honest it had totally put me off climbing anyway. Left feeling pretty despondent about the whole experience.
Hopefully there aren't too many similarly selfish, ignorant people out there.

I imagine people will be dicks like this occasionally. I fully intend on taking a photo and internet shaming them unless anyone can convince me not to..

I think people's willingness to compromise will be significantly different in mid May than mid March. It was a very different world then. Was barely on lots of people's radar. I went bouldering a week before lockdown too, and would have been a bit put out if some one asked me to go somewhere else cos they were there first. A week later went sport climbing but felt a bit unsure about it. That was the just before lockdown and the debate on here was just getting going. Obviously would react differently now as I suspect would most. Calling people selfish and ignorant for being happy to climb at the same sector as others in mid march is a bit harsh.

[Doylo]

Half of Sheffield will be at Griffs at 6am I reckon.

[sdm]

- stay within your local county, at most crossing one county boundary.

I presume this was included just to annoy the Sheffield residents?

Because of the dearth of decent climbing between the two counties of Yorkshire and Derbyshire? Yeah poor lambs.

Counties are such an arbitrary measure. If I walked out of the front door of my last house and turned left, I could pass through 4 counties in the first quarter of a mile. Or I could turn right, get in the car and drive nearly 70 miles due South and never leave the county.

If there's going to be any meaningful travel restrictions, they have to be based on distance or maybe time, not some arbitrary lines drawn on a map.

[petejh]

Of course, the whole thing is arbitrary if you haven't noticed! Essential / non-essential anyone? Counties at least make things pretty clear cut and easy to understand - you can't misinterpret being in Yorkshire..
Distance could work just as well, although it would suck to live on the coast and have half your potential area in the sea..

[sdm]

I'll trade your half sized area for my full sized area? 

[abarro81]

you can't misinterpret being in Yorkshire..

Actually I don't think Yorkshire is a county nowadays, it's subdivided...

[tomtom]

Of course, the whole thing is arbitrary if you haven't noticed! Essential / non-essential anyone? Counties at least make things pretty clear cut and easy to understand - you can't misinterpret being in Yorkshire..
Distance could work just as well, although it would suck to live on the coast and have half your potential area in the sea..

But you have coast to explore!!

[teestub]

you can't misinterpret being in Yorkshire..

Actually I don't think Yorkshire is a county nowadays, it's subdivided...

Don’t talk yourself out of access to Malham and Kilnsey!

[petejh]

He’d be ok under my ‘2 county rule’.

I’ll have Gwynedd and Cumbria.