Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully received
Vid but it's not very interesting
]Just to be clear, is this the move we're talking about?
Do you feel you're using both feet equally or favour one? If one, then consider making your supporting exercises asymmetric to focus on that leg.
As well as using your hip and low back extensors (posterior chain if you prefer) you're pushing down hard through your toes and straightening your knees. Most of the movement is towards the end of hip and knee extension (straightening). Supporting exercises should aim to mimic this: you don't need to do a deep squat for example. As well as targeting the right muscles, to my mind the key looks to be developing the speed of movement. I'd say your supplementary exercises should be more about developing that 'snap' than brute strength.Consider squats and calf raises (or a combination) for speed: slow lower then power back up as fast as you can. Typically power training loads are much less than for strength training. I'm no expert but 40-50% MVC is sometimes quoted. If you're totally focusing on speed - eg with plyometrics - then bodyweight only or bodyweight plus a weight vest. This kind of exercise is harder to quantify and less satisfying than lifting a big weight but more likely to see a transferable benefit in my view.
One of my favourites for addressing the chain from above the head all the way to the toes is what I call planks walk-outs, but google doesn't agree with me so I filmed myself. Basically from press up position walk your hands out as far as you can, Glutes and abs squeezed, hold for a few seconds then walk your feet back into pressup, repeat until you run out of floor. Word of warning, it's pretty brutal on your shoulders so make sure they're healthy and not for a shoulder rest day.
Quote from: shark on April 20, 2020, 11:07:19 amAny suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully receivedThanks for this DuncanQuote from: duncan on April 20, 2020, 12:50:19 pm]Just to be clear, is this the move we're talking about?YepQuoteDo you feel you're using both feet equally or favour one? If one, then consider making your supporting exercises asymmetric to focus on that leg.Great question. At the moment driving much more off the right leg. BUT I experimented with Tom's method which uses a lower but much poorer right foothold down to the right which is much less bunched up and you drive slightly more off the left foot and is less powerful but is at absolute full stretch for me. I'm going to experiment with it when I go back on as I find the stronger my core is the better Im able to use lower footholds. QuoteAs well as using your hip and low back extensors (posterior chain if you prefer) you're pushing down hard through your toes and straightening your knees. Most of the movement is towards the end of hip and knee extension (straightening). Supporting exercises should aim to mimic this: you don't need to do a deep squat for example. As well as targeting the right muscles, to my mind the key looks to be developing the speed of movement. I'd say your supplementary exercises should be more about developing that 'snap' than brute strength.Consider squats and calf raises (or a combination) for speed: slow lower then power back up as fast as you can. Typically power training loads are much less than for strength training. I'm no expert but 40-50% MVC is sometimes quoted. If you're totally focusing on speed - eg with plyometrics - then bodyweight only or bodyweight plus a weight vest. This kind of exercise is harder to quantify and less satisfying than lifting a big weight but more likely to see a transferable benefit in my view.I'll look into calf raises but I have always had huge calf muscles so doubt this is an issue
The upside of all this is that you can travel wherever you like within Austria and most sports, including climbing, are now not illegal if practiced alone or with people in your household.
1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers, and run some 5 week experiments to see which exercises suit you best (ideally testing on an Oak replica if one becomes available)2) Carry on as you are for a few more weeks as there is little time pressure, then review, with the potential option to resume frequent climbing and bouldering.3) Get an experienced strength and condition coach who knows climbing for specific guidance. I can recommend some.
I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.
1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers
8b onsighter says go to lots of places and try lots of problems, lots of moves, definitely don't keep going on Ben's. Simon tries it for a while then decides to keep going on Ben's and then once he's done it immediately starts on an eliminate version of it rather than doing something like, I don't know, a hard move of an undercut on a slightly overhanging wall like is available at Rubicon or forest rock or anston or various other places
Quote from: Will Hunt on April 20, 2020, 12:04:23 pm I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.Crikey, my usual repeaters work out (a twice weekly thing) takes around 1.5 hours - I guess that's a combination of masochism and inefficiency! I do three of the routines on the Beastmaker app - each of which is x7 hangs of 7s "on"/ 3s "off" for 7 different grips (usually 4 finger half crimp, slopers, 3 finger open, smaller 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 2, front 2). It's pretty gruelling - but I'm hoping that it provides the same stimulus as a full day's bouldering, to make up for my "lost" weekends.
Quote from: moose on April 20, 2020, 05:39:08 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on April 20, 2020, 12:04:23 pm I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.Crikey, my usual repeaters work out (a twice weekly thing) takes around 1.5 hours - I guess that's a combination of masochism and inefficiency! I do three of the routines on the Beastmaker app - each of which is x7 hangs of 7s "on"/ 3s "off" for 7 different grips (usually 4 finger half crimp, slopers, 3 finger open, smaller 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 2, front 2). It's pretty gruelling - but I'm hoping that it provides the same stimulus as a full day's bouldering, to make up for my "lost" weekends.Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull. I was just going off the 6 sets of 6 reps model.
Quote from: thekettle on April 20, 2020, 03:47:58 pm1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBersAre you aware how this works in reality?8B boulderer says try some Repeaters. Simon sticks to max hangs8b onsighter says go to lots of places and try lots of problems, lots of moves, definitely don't keep going on Ben's. Simon tries it for a while then decides to keep going on Ben's9a climber suggests Simon is strong enough for the Oak but should work AnCap. Simon tries a long boulder problem that he can only do in short sections and calls it endurance training.Highly experienced redpointer suggests Simon take a top down approach to the Oak working longer and longer links. Simon continues ground-up.
shuffle away
I think Power Club was incepted as a way for Shark to get advice for the Oak? This is edition 527
Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull.