P.s. Davo - you're not actually training to hang off an edge, you're training BY hanging off and edge to be good at rock climbing. What you can hang for 10s might be a good test of max finger strength, but the test is not the only thing you do to improve at the test. 200m runners don't just run 200m races, they do other shit too
Yeah exactly, for me I’m probably at around 80% of what would cause failure in one or two sets working up to being able to reliably do 5 sets of a given grip before adding weight.
Thanks again for the reply. And whilst we're here, how many grips would you typically do? I'm wondering if I'm generally not doing enough volume of them, particularly as it sounds like you increase the difficulty by increasing the volume, whereas I'm trying it by increasing the intensity.
Quote from: Coops_13 on April 11, 2020, 02:45:35 pmwhy not the BM app? You can create and save custom workouts which seem to work for meMostly because i bought it on an old iphone and am too tight to buy it on android too!
why not the BM app? You can create and save custom workouts which seem to work for me
The efficacy of repeaters still makes no sensei to me
Yes, Sensei
So do you think everyone out there recommending repeaters (Varian, Andersons, Bechtel, Maisch, Lettuce, Horst(?) etc., etc.) is wrong Shark?
Quote from: shark on April 11, 2020, 10:53:59 pmThe efficacy of repeaters still makes no sensei to meIn the end understanding how or why something works is secondary to if it works.
My suspicion is that, for most people, consistently doing a reasonable volume (3-5 sessions per week) of high-ish intensity (80-90% of max) fingerboarding is more important than the details of the protocol.
Liam - the tricky things with the "turn to crimp" approach is that it can be very tweaky anywhere near max, so if you're at all prone to injury you can't go hard on it.
Maisch made some fairly poor assertions (trainingbeta.com interview) based on Eva Lopez's papers. He then doubled down on them when challenged, even when the author confirmed the assertions were unfounded.I found this incredibly disconcerting at the time (~2015).
My thinking is a chunk of plywood as a back board (would 15mm be enough ?) but then I need to attach it.Ideally in such a way it can be removed to allow pull-ups. Ant thoughts or suggestions welcome thanks. I'm thinking in terms of screwing a batten to the back to "hook" over the bar. Would pine be ok or would it split?
Assertions based on his experience and results training people or solely based of that small study which seems to have got so many people stuck on a specific protocol? Big difference between the two I guess. I really like his website (which appears to be no more, a shame) and his philosophy.
. I used bike hooks from B&Q, screwed into the plywood, which allow the board to hang from the pull up bar and be taken off easily. With careful positioning of the hooks, it was easy to ensure that the board does not move at all and stays locked in place.